MSD is the number one name in performance ignition components. You'll see MSD's on 330 mph Top Fuel Dragsters in the NHRA and on the stock cars of NASCAR however MSD offers a variety of products that will improve the performance of your late model muscle car, truck or street machine.
4:55, I beleve this statement is wrong. The adjustable vaccuum canister can not increase or decrease the amount of timing. You can adjust when the timing shall be activated by the amount of vaccuum. Thigher spring in the caninster equals later advance from the caninster etc.
I made an adjustable canister for my old VW, I can change the spring inside or tighten it stiffer or less to experiment. I really enjoy the torque at partial throttle it gives. 🔧🪛🚘
6425 6AL key on Engine off I get 1 led blink then goes out, what could possibly be why not getting 5 blinks ? Triggers as I am cranking, car starts and runs, is my box not working properly?
Just purchase week and a half ago, the 6530, also using trigger wheel. Software reading double the RPM that my tachometer is reading. And yes, I changed the software to the correct total cylinders in the tree. 2 different Tech support guys had no answer to this problem.....I just sent it back so they can look inside the box. Hope they find the problem!
Summit (msd) sbc igntion box, dist. Recently developed a crank/no start or hard start condition Used to run Summit brand 8mm wires always fired up Put Napa premium Belden 8mm on. Could this be an issue? Meaning too much resistance? Everything in the car is brand new .Wires nuts bolts you name it. Tired of throwing parts and on disability cant afford to Thx PS Neighbor insisted on buying me the fancy NGK platinum?? plugs are those any good or just stick to Autolite 3924? WAnt to trust this car again
Is Holley actually going to bring back Mallory?!?!? You’re wearing a Mallory shirt, and your channel is MSD, and both are owned by Holley now- so….. please say you are going to revive Mallory !
Is the MSD street fire distributor a " multi spark" unit WITHOUT a 6A box . Im finding multiple conflicting forums about what timing light to use with JUST the street fire distributor & NO 6A box . They say certain timing lights wont work with multi spark ignition ,but IS the street fire distributor a MULTI SPARK ??
Hi sir, can you give me one example answer for my question? Example for like n14 engine/Peugeot 1.6 thp with the undersquare, compression ratio like 10.5.1, turbocharger, direct injection, 6 speed auto, no marking degree, and result for that engine like computer scaning, as result -1 ignition degree, minimum degree like 15 to 18, maximum degree like 30 to 34 degree, so if you like mathly counter in your brain what - ignition degree would like you choose for that engine performance would be better?? Hope you can response and give your answer sir. 🥲.. thank you very much sir.
Im brand new to fuel injection so Dumb question time my timing is 36 degrees i set the crank trigger there. So do i still set the crank to 195 degrees to set the cam sync then.
Others have commented on this but I'll try to be as succinct as possible. The need for ignition advance is entirely due to the time it takes for the fuel air mixture to burn completely. It may seem to be instantaneous but it is not in relative terms. Relative to what you say? Relative to the speed (RPM) the engine is turning. Keep in mind that the time it takes to burn the fuel mixture is more or less constant. In other words, the flame travel speed is the same at idle as it is at redline, so if ignition timing were set and optimized for idle the engine would outrun the flame speed of the combustion event and the pressure in the cylinder would peak well past TDC. Not optimal. That is what the centrifugal advance is for, it advances the timing as the RPM increases. Vacuum also advances the timing but at W.O.T. (A.K.A high load) vacuum of course goes away and the timing is retarded so as to avoid detonation. There are other factors that enter into the optimal number of degrees of ignition advance but for the most part it is dependent on the combustion chamber design which greatly affects how fast the charge burns. A fast burn combustion chamber was the main reason the DFV Cosworth V-8 became the most successful Formula One engine of all time. Prior to the creation of the DFV, most overhead cam engine designs used very wide angles between the intake an exhaust valves which allowed for very large valve heads and large quantities of fuel and air to enter the cylinder. But to get the compression ratio high enough to take advantage of high octane fuels required very high dome pistons. That made for a very thin and slower burning combustion chamber, which required a lot more ignition advance than faster burning designs. Put another way, it is better to burn the charge fast and more completely than it is to try and stuff more mixture into a less efficient combustion chamber.
This distributor looks cool, but overpriced. It doesn't "need" to connected to an MSD ignition box, it can be wired to a regular ignition module. But since it doesn't have vacuum advance, it wouldn't make a good daily driver distributor without an ECM
Going to try and put my distributor on my 1970 Mustang 351W myself. Thank you for this video, you guys are awesome and I appreciate the energy and effort you guys put into this tutorial. Just subscribed.
I purchased a Chevy crate 5 years ago for a 77 Monte. 480/460. 750 Quick Fuel carb. They shipped it with mechanical advance with the vacuum advance crimped. My Monte runs like a bat out of hell. 700/R4 tranny with overdrive. Cruises 75 MPH at 2,300 RPM with 3.73 rear. Idles in drive at 650 RPM smooth as silk. Other than MPG, is anything wrong with this setup? Trying to learn.
I keep hearing that when using an msd box, a standard timing light can give you a false reading because of the multiple sparks associated with an msd box. Any thoughts? And of course, an msd timing light is 200+ .
So, is it possible to run this and have two different tunes going? I’m going to be spraying nitrous on my Ls1 and wanna know if this is best bet to get. One tune for straight motor. Tune number two for retard nitrous
I installed an HEI at TDC and set the timing to -10BTDC on my 300 6 F150. Now it’s driving like I have a totally different gear ration. Insanely high RPMs at 45mph now, so I can’t drive on freeway. If I advance more, it gets worse. Better acceleration, way more heat. Retarding it fixes the heat issues, but i can only go so far before I lose so much power I start stalling everywhere.
Not true that at higher RPM the combustion slows down. Its that combustion time stays same but piston speed increases giving the combustion less relative time to complete, so you need more advance.
