Check out new products, tools, and application tips from Raybuck Auto Body Parts. Not only do we discuss the auto body products that we sell, we get into all sorts of stuff automotive related. We're all car enthusiasts and wrenchers, so no matter what video you land on, you can be sure that it has something to do with the hobby.
Raybuck carries a huge selection of aftermarket rust repair and restoration panels for cars, trucks, vans, and SUVs from the 1940s through the current. We also carry flooring, fuel tanks, weatherstripping, glass, undercoating, bedliner, seat covers and a lot more. Feel free to visit our site at raybuck.com to see what we have for your vehicle.
If you have a need for automotive fasteners, abrasives or general body shop supplies, check out our brother company Henry's Automotive Warehouse henrysautowarehouse.com
This is an old video, so im sure you know by now, but Speedway sells a smaller version of the stock steering wheel now. I believe it's 15". This is a cool truck. Great stance and patina. I like the rear bumper mod. I hope to get a 47-54 GM truck soon
Helpful to know there are 7 nuts and wiper set screw is 1/16 Allen wrench. The nut above the instrument cluster gave me the most trouble. I removed the cluster mounting screws, moved it enough to use a 11/32 socket, universal and 1/4" extension on the ratchet. Once the nuts are loose, a deep-well socket is useful to finger-loosen the rest of the way.
Ok RU-vid. This is the part I have in my garage. For a year. I want to know how to do the best job I can cutting out the old and installing the new :) Just venting. Thanks for the view.
NGK TR5 is IIRC what U need for a fairly short tapered seat plug much like the Accel. I remember using those in a SBC in a van back in the day, one cyl on the RH side was a pain right near the dipstick tube with the stock AC CR43TS but the TR5 was just enough shorter to make that job easier. The BKR5E is a really good replacement for heads that use a crush washer RC12YC Champion type plug. If U need a .040” gap use NGK BKR5ES-11 they will be pre-set for that
Ok so I already have a shattered rear windshield and I m replacing right now so there is a rear windshield wiper arm still connected on my Kia soul and no glass anymore so I'm trying to figure out how to get the arm off and back on ... any suggestions ???
So awesome thank you for sharing. But it’s funny because you were explaining why you got it. Lol. Sounded like one of those things that goes something like honey I got it because. Lol. So cool. Thanks for sharing. I’m getting ready to build one of those in my shop.
And in six months you'll have the same rust without treating it ( on the backside).. rust reformer and encapsulation...then prime and paint. ...the reason all trucks rust is there is no rust prevention at the assembly (spot welding process)
You'd think with all the smart engineers in the auto industry they could easily design a rear wheel arch area that doesn't collect dirt and moisture which results in the rusting. Makes one think it might be on purpose.
This is nice but there are a few things that I would have done and few that I wouldn't do. 1:21 The Hitch/Draw Bar/Ball Mount (Not receiver. Receiver is the part you insert this into. Just clarifying.) is a good beefy Idea. I like it. Tho It would have been better to weld it where to "bottom" was facing up(2" rise) (one way it is a 2" drop and the other is a 2" rise) and the plate on top of that. You would not have needed to notch holes in deck of trailer. Just saying. However using a HAUL-MASTER 12 in. Hitch Extender SKU: 69882 You could just weld the plate right on top. Or just use a HAUL-MASTER Hitch Extender with Step SKU: 97685. Not as thick as the plate or winch cradles but I have one and I have NOT been kind to it for over 20 years and it is sound. In any case that is what it will look like just more welded area. Why is this a option to consider? Besides not having to notch the boards. Well It give you a connection point for any one of these. HAUL-MASTER 2 in. Hitch Mounted D-Ring Shackle SKU: 57255 HAUL-MASTER Clevis Trailer Pin Mount SKU: 66345 HAUL-MASTER D Shackle Receiver Hitch SKU: 66212 It makes it a point to hook your cable to, when using a snatch block. I am sure you know that doubling your cable back to the a fixed point will increase the winch's capacity or make it work less. For those times the load is not free rolling. Breaks locked up, dragging logs onto trailer, pulling vehicle out of mud, pulling stumps, pulling skid onto trailer, pulling fence posts and many more possible occasions. Yes that winch can do most of these things but it will do it with less effort. Alternatively, weld a stake pocket to the bottom. This will give you a place to insert a "stake pocket d ring". This will not only give you a place to double back the cable to, but you can use the d-ring and snatch block to pull you load to one side. Whether you just have to adjust/straighten/align the load on the trailer or using the end of the trailer to pull a load out of a spot that will not allow you to put the trailer directly lined up with load. Use Anderson Power Connectors to connect the battery, instead of the clamps on the Jumper cables. I purchased a few sets of 25ft and 30ft 4 Gauge jumper cables and cut the cable about 1ft to 1 1/2ft from the ends. Installed the Anderson plugs. End up with two pig tails with clamps on them and a length of cable. Put pigtails on your winch battery and on your truck battery (with 50amp manual reset breaker. Optional but highly recommend) . Whenever you need the winch you just plug the cable to the winch and to the battery (truck or winch battery). If you even need to jump a vehicle in a parking lot or on the side of the road, plug the cable to the truck pigtail and run the cable to the dead vehicle. Use the Pigtails with clamps, on the dead vehicle end. The great thing is that you do NOT have to worry about getting the batteries close together. Another option is to run permanent cable to the back of truck (or additional, to inside the bed of truck to upkeep battery (definitely use a circuit breaker) (and possibly a dual battery isolator, if battery is always connected or just disconnect winch battery when not actively charging)) so that the use of a short cable is possible for greater convivence. I have different lengths of cables. I keep the winch battery pigtails short as possible, so the cable is not getting in the way when carrying or storing the battery. Not good when carrying a heavy battery and the cable falls right as you are taking a step. I can't tell you how many times there was a car in a busy parking lot where people were trying to push a car out of a parking space so that the jumper cables will reach. I'd tell then to stop, I get my cables, toss them the pigtail with clamps, plug in, jump the vehicle, roll up, and on my way. All done before they can even say thank you. My hood stays closed the entire time. This is a huge safety plus if you have to jump a car on the side of the road. Or worse on the highway. I seen some guy trying to turn his truck around, to face the dead vehicle. On a busy highway no less. I circle back around and told that guy to leave. Of course he was to proud to listen to a stranger. By the time he got his truck around I had already jumped the dead vehicle. All the while people were angerly honking at him. With the winch battery, having a pigtail on it, can come in real handy if your truck battery is dead. Just grab your cables, connect to the battery (that doesn't have to leave the bed of truck, and then connect to your truck battery. You can even take that battery to where a vehicle is to far in but stuck in the mud. Kinda like one of those booster packs.
@@RaybuckAutoBodyParts that's just what I did and now my '96 Nissan d21 is running great ! Thanks . At 95° today in S.E. Kansas it seems to be running at around 185° . I may not have needed the relay kit that came with the eBay fan kit but I'm glad I converted it over . BTW , I ONLY have 345,000 miles on it ! Bought it new . Again , thanks for the heads up .
Good afternoon, I really enjoyed your video and replacement would have been easy except for the fact that I have a 2015 Chevy Trax. My wife started backing out of the garage before the overhead door was all the way up. As a result, the bottom lip of the garage door, came into contact with the wiper arm, and snapped it off of the pin that the arm mounts to. The pin still functions properly, but there doesn't appear to be a way to attach the new arm onto the pin. To clarify myself, the cover for the wiper arm, does not have a removable piece in which to access the retaining nut.
I'm sure you have it now , 2 weeks ago , but I put mine in the upper radiator hose where I put an adapter for a mechanical temp. gauge . Stay cool this summer .
I have some 4'x8' rusted metal fence panels. At the end of this video you talked about applying Rust Release then spraying with Zero Rust. Is spraying Rust Release a good way to remove rust from this fence then applying Zero Rust on a fence that will sit in the sun? Thanks
I recently replaced the weather stripping on both doors and the carpet as well. I used your video as a guide on my 1973 super camper. It turned out great. Thanks for sharing your experience.
