Hi, my name is John Socha-Leialoha. I'm a software developer by day, so at home I like to do things more mechanical. That usually means CNC milling, injection molding, and in general helping to bring new products to market. I hope you enjoy my channel, where I publish videos on projects that interest me. Here is some of what I do:
* DIY/Home Injection Molding * CNC Milling * Watch Making -- creating a family of automatic watches * Model Train Throttle -- commercial injection molding
Hey like the videos, I make watches and small parts all products no job shop. I have a hass OM-2 a Tormach MX and EMCO lasers and other goodies. I wanted to make sure you were aware of an issue I painfully just found out about on my Haas OM, as you know it came with a battery-powered grease. the grease they used has an issue of gelling up and clogging lines. and then it ends up bursting a line and then NO fittings get lubed. I had my X screw start making clicking sounds in one direction. I did some inspections and found about 3 pounds of grease on my Z column getting pushed out of a burst line.. I had bought the om used and due to the color of grease I could tell this had happened years before I got it. needless to say, ball screws are being reground and balled...there was an update for it but my Haas LDO never told me even on year check-ups... So I'm just letting you know to check for the updated grease system and make sure everything is getting lubed..Pull your way covers and check. I'm converting mine to an oil system to make sure no grease clogging happens again
You may want to revisit your conclusions regarding use of plastic molds. Bulk filament products containing up to 30% aluminum particulate will likely ameliorate many of the issues that differentiated aluminum-milled vs additive-plastic mold based injection molding techniques.
P1S is a good choice, except for following: Tough to go over 100C bed temp. Printing with CF nylon, PC is difficult. Does not have hardened nozzle or extruder gear(upgradeable though), mainly useful for abrasives CF, magnetic PLA etc. No lidar/camera for flow calibration for every print. Also has lower rez camera for live view. The display is monochrome and not touch sensitive. Also has plastic side covers instead of sheet metal.
This is amazing. I bought one of these. The cost of making a mold like this is a question I see a lot and would also like to see answered. I’ve seen a lot of various pricing online and it’s a little confusing.
I didn't realize how clever the refill is. Good thing I didn't throw away my used rolls. I switched to other brands, but this might make me go back to the bambu filament.
I purchased the A1 + AMS Lite at the beginning of the month and absolutely I love it. Compared to my previous Anet A8s and Ender 3 it's a night and day difference. I really want to print ASA so I made a setup in a closet with a dehumidifier, humidity/temperature monitor and filament dryer. Depending on my results I may get a P1S in the future, but the price gap is large imo.
I recently bought the P1S too after some years with a couple of Ender 3s. Like you, I'm getting great prints. But I'm curious as to why you don't want the cabinet closed off to outside air while printing PLA. I keep the top on and the door shut whether I'm printing PLA or PETG.
My issue with the AMS is that it's kind of wasteful on filament if you multicolor print, but a lot of community work is being put into designing "press molds" where you warm up the PLA purges in a junk toaster oven, roll it into a ball, and stick it into a mold you press by hand or in a vice. I do use the AMS for tear-away supports where the interface material between the support and the part is a plastic that sticks when hot, but falls off when cold. You still have to be selective so that you're not wasteful but I find the right applications to yield flawless results.
Does the AMS system have a filament dryer built in ??? What I hate about my current printer is I have to remove the filament after each use and wrap them up to make sure they don't absorb too much moisture.
It sort of does, and it has a humidity sensor that reports back to the slicer over the network. There are two slots in the back that you stick desiccant packs in and they're good enough to *keep* filament dry, but a common first print is a bunch of boxes to put loose reusable silica gel beads into since there are spots you can put those in.
John, i don’t see you as a multi color filament for the sake of aesthetics kind of guy. I could see your use case for the AMS would be using water soluble support filament or replicating over molding by experimenting with combining different types of filament
I love the AMS Lite on my A1's ability to auto switch when a roll is empty. No more watching the printer to load another roll when I get close to the end. It just works. Amazing tech all around.
What!? You switched to injection moulding after got bored with 3D printing? I thought you were doing injection moulding your whole life. I don't know what gave me that feeling but you seem like a dude that's been in the biz for a long time :) And 3D printing is not that old I guess, but what is time anyway...
No, I should have mentioned that. I've been using a mix of Bambu and other brands. Once I run out of the other brands, my plan is to just buy Bambu refills because I like being able to reuse the spools, and I like the RFID feature.
I just ordered my third Bambu printer today. I have two X1C's and a P1S. They are work horses and have thousands of hours on them printing mostly ABS/ASA.
@@JohnSL The X1C is a little easier to use if you don't have a computer or phone with the Handy app near by. The screen is easier to navigate and you can change details about filament in the AMS. That being said the P1S produces identical prints for a lower purchase price.
Not sure if this was perfect timing or absolutely awful timing. I've been looking at the X1C the last few days and wondering whether I should pull the trigger.. Can't say I'm less motivated to spend money now.. :) Hope you'll enjoy your P1S!
Hope this helped. There are other things I like about the P1S (that also apply to the X1C) that I didn't mention because other videos have focused on those areas. For example, the speed.
@@JohnSL It's the speed and and improved tolerances that I'm after mostly, and finally the print quality. Trigger has been pulled. X1C + AMS. I told the wife that since you pushed me over the fence, you'll be taking half of the economical blow.
Great video. I would add 4 3/8" -16 flat headed bolts thru the back side of the mold. One at each corner. Put mold release on the bolts before threading them in then tighten them well. Before you add the epoxy making sure you put more mold release on the whole cavity. They should protrude 2/3 to 3/4 of the way into the cavity area. . Putting a small relief angle on the sides will also help releasing the mold knowing the bolts will hold it in place. Without the relief angle you may want to make the bolts captive that way helping to push the mold out when not needed. Hope that helps.
Great Video and Excellent descriptions. I would like to see more details for how you generated the belt in your 3d model. Is this described somewhere else? Also - a definition of what you mean by BeltDiameter and BeltCenterToCenter would be good. I'm trying to do the same model as yours except for two pulleys with different number of teeth.
Mold polishing need a lot of patience, avoiding the edges of the cavity to get dull is utmost important. A 2000 grit of sandpaper put under a small hard wooden stick or bamboo, formed like a chisel would make a mirror finished. Followed by diamond paste 1 micron on a felt. I'm a plastic injection moldmaker for 20 years.
You did a good job, I'm also a plastic injection moldmaker, I worked 17 years in Saudi Arabia. I did different mold steels like 1.2080, 1.2016 which were also called stainless steel due high chrome contents. Some aluminium ones for blow moulding and thermoforming molds. For cosmetics molds, they required glass finished. For that kind of work that you did, you to make a small wooden stick formed like a chisel. A 30 or 45 degrees angle will do or what is comfortable to you. You put the sandpaper 400 grit under the wooden stick. Move forward and backward and put WD40 or any light oil will do. Then 800 to 1000 grit to finish, another 1200 grit would be better. Thanks bro.,,. good luck to your RU-vid channel.
I think… I recognize the the panel…. but the ASI markings and spoiler labeling is throwing me off a bit…. It’ll be like pulling off a bandaid… but worth it in the end. Good luck with all that wire “nesting” A man with the patience of Jobe you are. ;)
It's Harbor Freight's Rust-Cutting Resin Abrasive Tumbler Media, which is the green media. It's gentler than other media, so takes a while. But I really like the finish.
Fusion now has Configurations, but Derive is still relevant. Configurations are best for 'variations' of a design (ie changes in properties, toggling 'childless' features, etc). It's not so great at toggling/switching chains of dependent features. By 'toggle', I mean 'Suppress' all but the active option. Derive is often the simplest option when a design requires selectable upstreamfeatures (eg different sketch profiles) which each have a chain of dependent features (eg. extrude(s), combine, chamfer, etc). AD discussed using Derive like a 'Configuration' here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OpFSoPLSaag.html&pp=ygUVRGVyaXZlLWluZyBGdXNpb24gMzYw Thanks for the vid btw 🙂
"I was too lazy to put a tap in the machine..." is the #1 reason threaded holes get buggered up in machine shops! I can't tell you how many parts I screwed up because I literally didn't want to go through the rigamarole of finding the tap, finding the right tap collet, finding a tool holder, etc. Good to see you back in action!
