Hi, my name is John Socha-Leialoha. I'm a software developer by day, so at home I like to do things more mechanical. That usually means CNC milling, injection molding, and in general helping to bring new products to market. I hope you enjoy my channel, where I publish videos on projects that interest me. Here is some of what I do:
* DIY/Home Injection Molding * CNC Milling * Watch Making -- creating a family of automatic watches * Model Train Throttle -- commercial injection molding
Hi John Looks good, did not see this video when it first came out. Keep up the good work. I would guess you do not need another project but how about combining your 3D printing with your Arburg. Couple years ago modeled the C4 parts chute and a switch cover. The plan was to have a chute for each of my machines. The aluminum chute I have is a great part, but gets in the way when changing molds so just leave it off. Glued my broken switch cover and never need that. If you run your Arburg in the automatic mode the chute might work for you. Have the models if you would like to print them for your machine. JD PS Just turned on my utube channel with a video on the Parts Chute at “Jack Daniels 1205” take a look if you are interested.
Huh. That tool setter adjustment was easy. Every time I try to level mine, adjusting around x at the the base throws off the around y adustment at the top and vice versa, leading me to go between the two multiple times, but still not quite reaching dead nuts level.
For what it's worth, those machined style terminals are also often called "closed barrel" where the stamped variety are often called "open barrel". Makes sense when you see them side by side, but you need to make sure you have the correct style crimper for each variety. One of the other pitfalls I often find with DSUB is you need to be careful with wire size if you want to disassemble them later. Get much larger than 20 gauge on most and the wire gets to be as big as the hole in the connector, so it's hard to get any kind of tool between the housing and wire to remove it.
At my previous job, we had these connectors made by both AMP and Cannon. The assembled connectors were interchangeable, but AMP contacts didn't fit the Cannon housings (and vice versa)! I'm sure this insertable-contact style of D-Sub connectors are used in many fields besides avionics.
“I have worked with DB9 and DB22 connectors used in telecommunications. At that time, I used a paper clip to remove the female pins, while for the male pins, I used needle-nose pliers. It was laborious work, and sometimes it was necessary to replace the connector. However, back then, it was very straightforward and inexpensive because there were many suppliers.
I have a set of these tools but rarely ever use it. The first problem is the cost of the pins, the second is due to the cost of the pins one tends to only use the pins required for connection and this results in the socket not holding well in the plug unless screwed together. While we know the plug should be screwed in place this is not always practical when testing etc. If I were repairing a plane I would use them but otherwise they sit in the draw
In my comment on the last one, I didn't notice you were using it the wrong way around. Yeah, the side with the hole and both ends are split is the extraction side, and the side that's one piece is the insertion side. I think I'd mentioned that I had broken the end off of at least one of those on the extraction side, and I said "red side", but I actually meant white side - I was just going off which way you were using it and not paying close enough attention :)
Some other sources: Newark, Allied Electronics. Amp/Tyco Electronics/TE Connectivity is one OEM with great data sheets. Daniel's Manufacturing (DMC) makes an awesome crimp frame with countless positioners for various contact profiles. Also, be aware that different P/Ns for the contacts often are associated with different gage sizes wires. Get the appropriate contact for the wire you are using.
You find crimped pins in PC cables too, just usually not in the hand-assembled variety, as most people don't have the crimper, so they just use the solder cup ones. You find the crimped ones with pre-crimped wires in D-sub to RJ-45 adapters. You can map the pins however you want between the RJ45 side and the d-sub side by pushing the crimped pins into whatever spot on the connector you want. I've used those little red/white insertion/removal tools to remove the pins and move them around - they can be a pain, but usually you have to push them in further than you think to get past the clip. I've also broken a few of those tips on the red side of those tools. It helps to take a needle file and knock the sharp edges off the opening slots of the tool on both sides, but they're just not super reliable tools
Ha ha! Where were you when I was trying to figure this out myself a few of years ago? longezproject.blogspot.com/2017/07/ch-22-electricalavionics-part-5.html Well done. You definitely saved someone else a lot of head scratching in the future. Ciao, Marco.
What if you mixed the SLA resin with aluminum powder to combine the physical properties and help the heat spreads across the mold? This way you’d skip the entire epoxy+remolding part, and still have the thermal benefits of the aluminum mix
Great research to do this. I'm not sure how you arrived at Td2 though. In the example at (12:30 minutes) you said d is 27mm then you looked up table 11, couldn't find P=5 (which looking at the numbers would be around 0.24) and then you chose 0.075 mm from a substantially different major diameter?
3:41 Your model is showing typical signs that you need more time on the "rest after retract" setting or whatever the equivalent is in your slicer. Basically your light is turning on and curing resin while resin is still flowing/squishing out of the gap between the film/screen and the last layer of the model. This is especially a problem with more viscous resins and is often referred to as "bloom." Another possibility is that the PWM or light intensity setting needs to be turned down a little bit, but I'd experiment with the rest after retract first. Some printers like my Mega 8K have either really intense light sources that are capable of overwhelming the screen's masking, or the masking is too weak. Turning this setting down can help prevent a different type of bloom or light bleed. This is typically more of a problem with larger parts with lots of straight edges.
I wonder how Siraya Tech Blu, Sculpt with a 10-25% mix ratio of Tenacious, or their Mecha resin would hold up for this purpose. I know Sculpt alone is pretty brittle. I also kind of wonder if heat treating in an oven first might help with that warping issue.
I just got a promotion at a custom fab shop, from a brain dead painter to this machine. I have ZERO experience in this field, so I may download this video for a reference.
