Changing the operation order made a big different for this watch project. I'm using the riser I milled in the previous episode. Support me on Patreon: / johnsl
4:11 I would have printed a adapter for the „wack“. Your risking hitting the studs of the wristband. You can taper it to have a smaller and centered area to hit on too. But only if you intend to mill at least 5-10 parts.
These videos you make are full of useful information. Ive got a little cnc machine in my bedroom 😄 I'm cutting sterling silver with tiny endmills, its challenging, I wish my machine had a fancy probe like yours, it would help!
I spent years using a little Taig 5019CNC mill with an edge finder. You can get very repeatable results, which I did. The main difference is that it takes longer. Using a probe is a joy, but definitely not a requirement for getting good results.
@@JohnSL thanks for the tip, I've mostly just been cutting from sheet silver so super precision wasn't needed. Now I'm trying to machine features into rings I think an edge finder is what I need. Not many that will fit an er11 collet unfortunately
Great way of thinking John. What is a cause of flaw and when it occurs. Fine finish cut after a rough so there is no need to repair threads. Great example of work smarter than harder.
Nice job! Order of operations is always critical and I'm really interested in hearing how others approach the problem. Planning the order of ops and the fixturing strategy is what i find most interesting about machining.
I usually leave the back left corner of the vise as G54 and use that as the datum point for parts in the vise. Back in the day before probing was widely available, it was a good way to quickly setup a part. I’d use a straight edge to align the part flush with the jaw in X and Y takes care of itself.
I mostly do the same. G54 is the back left and on top of the tallest parallels that will fit in the vise. In this case I'm using G56 so I don't change the Z on G54. I didn't mention this, but the second operation is using G54.
