two brothers with a passion for the BMW world documenting their journey restoring, repairing and collecting cars out of their Vista, CA shop. email us or visit our website to get in touch! superbimmerbros@gmail.com superbimmerbros.com
My Dad always used to say, "if you lose your wealth, you've lost nothing,, If you lose your health, you've lost something, But if you lose your reputation, you've lost everything!" Been watching your channel a while and always impressed with your honesty and openness. If I lived in California, I'd certainly trust you guys with my prized BMW.
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Sorry for the long hiatus! We were getting things organized to be able to come back consistently. Let us know what you like to see more of on the channel! Thanks for waiting 🙏
Sorry for asking, but my m3 e92, when i start it and go around, it doesnt go more than 2k rpm, like if something is blocking the engine. Do you know why?
Hey bro! This service currently starts at 7k. We send the block out to get bored next size up with new pistons and rings. Cranks are all inspected and turned for next size up if necessary.cylinder head gets completely rebuilt, valves ground and seats cut. New cam in the head with fresh seals, rockers etc. Block gets new gaskets, seals etc. Send an inquiry via Instagram or shoot us an email superbimmerbros@gmail.com 👍
Those cylinders are out of spec. Maximum should be 84.04. This motor will experience blow-by and reduced power. Should have rebored to 84.5 and ran 20 thou pistons + rings.
Hey! Loved the vid about to do this with my '88 528e, what year/model exactly was yours? Sorry if i missed you say it haha. Dropped a sub will have to check after work if any updates came from this e28 :)
Updates are on the way man! Shop has grown a lot since we've posted so the projects have been put on a brief hold but it's an 87! 88 is great cuz it has the harness needed for a b35 swap 🙌
What is the name of the product you are using? I looked for immoression blue, lube, pressure blue..no results...and getting ready to do a valve job. Thanks.
Oiling the back side of bearings is a no no and spraying copper gasket spray on to the block, pistons and bores is never a good idea. You could have easily sprayed the back side of the head gasket.
Thanks for the feedback man! We have since then stopped oiling the back of the bearings as you said and cut back on the copper spray all of our recent builds mostly get the block skimmed so no real reason for the spray anymore. Cheers 🙏
Hey mate, great video. Just bought a 1989 318i myself, and am looking at doing a 5 lug conversion with the e30 m3 front suspension. I'm really new to the e30 scene and I'm just wanting to see what parts I would need to be able to do it myself. I understand that the m3 parts are much more expensive, but I am trying to make the perfect e30 build. I have started to put together a list of everything that I'll be doing to the car if you were curious as to the direction that I'll be going with it. docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1__3WcD3dpHuqjyOxfcZElMEz0Wti8M1qREliorb66F8/edit?usp=sharing Thanks, Aidan
For anyone watching this...NEVER lube the back side of the bearing halves when installing them in the engine. You ONLY want to put assembly lube on the inner face of the bearings AFTER they are installed. Putting assembly lube on the back side of the bearings will vastly increase the chances of spinning a bearing.
Hey Dustin! Thanks for the comment and for sharing. We have since then stopped doing this for this exact reason. We luckily haven't had any issues from doing this BUT we completely agree!
Hi my brother i m a m30 owner 635csi from south Africa i swaped my engine with an m30 from e34 my problem is oil filter housing its not pumping oil i can see the difference on the gasket of the housing in short it doesn't pump oil
Hello brother! We have had the same issue before, we cut a new gasket that resembles the housing to ensure oil pressure makes its way past the filter. Please let us know if we can offer any more help!
I owned 7 5 series E28's over a period of 25 years, (a 520i 4x 528i's and 2x 535i M's) the first being only 8 months old when I bought it. All I can say is, if you think these cars are well designed, perform well and are reliable, you must have little to no experience of cars. They are horribly designed with suspension that nose-dives at the front, scrubs the tyres terribly at the back, thrashy agricultural engines with poorly designed camshaft oil feeds causing cam scratching on start-up and early failure. My cars were pampered and mollycoddled beyond belief their whole life but were so unreliable, They have incredibly vague worm-and- roller steering (Ford was already using Rack & Pinion in 1970). They use oil, they're too thirsty for a small engine, the cooling system leaks at the drop of a hat causing overheat and head-gasket problems, the front brakes are just too small and not up to the job causing early brake fading and pad wear, you're limited to lousy German tyres because of the stupid wheels, the early fuel injection (Kugelfischer) was a design disaster, causing irreversible flooding in cold weather and was FAR inferior to the Electronic British Triumph Petrol injection system. The ground clearance was hopeless considering how tall the car was, many a 5 series lost its sump to a speed hump. They wallow everywhere when cornering or braking. The gearboxes were weak and prone to popping out of gear, at around 50,000 miles, the "Dogleg" gearboxes in the M's was just a cumbersome and useless joke. The clutches in all 5's are undersized and failed early very commonly, and the automatic transmissions failed very commonly around 70.000 miles ! They are truly a car that was 20 years behind the Fords of the day and 30 years behind the Triumph 2000 and 2.5 Pi when they first appeared but they were bullied into market because of the European Market and the need to rebuild the German economy after the war. Do yourself a favour, drive behind a BMW E28 and watch the rear suspension geometry and damping, it's as hopeless today as it always was. Why ? Because Germans only knew how to build rear engined cars, that's why. There's a reason the E28 looks like an old NSU Prinz - that's all they knew, hence the heavy vague front with undersized running gear. BMW's are, and always were, a load of old German propaganda. Unfortunately, German fanboys don't know Scheisse from Scheinola. Having owned 7 E28's before I realised this was all Hype, I really can say with experience that they should have called them "The Ultimate Walking Machine" .
Not yet! It has been long overdue. I actually ended up getting a bad ball joint on the front tie rod end and it made a nasty pop sound so I'm hoping to once again do the front! Rears are definitely next
Good video and nice to see you back! A shorter format can work well and may be less troublesome on your end. Bite-size videos that focus on troubleshooting, maintenance and repairs are really helpful.
Hopefully gonna swap my 3.5 cam into my 3.2 engine..is it possible??they look the same but I expect more lift on the 3.5..also the 3.5 cam rod doesn't have the Allen ends,the 3.2 shafts did..guessing they knock out like the 3.2..yes I'll check piston valve clearance n pray that's OK just be a hotter cam install..
Yes it's possible! Most if not all m30 heads are interchangeable except the early cams that use the distributor shaft. First fives has an excellent write up on the differences in cams and heads that was very useful to us when doing these swaps at home! www.firstfives.org/faq/cylinder_head/cylinder_head_faq.htm
Thanks.Email to him wouldn't work..but I'm going along n have both cams out..I'm just worried about cam valve piston interference issues..I just got my gasket kit and new head bolts so I'm still in the fixing process..thanks for any help.
Oh man i remember when i was trying to repace my by busted ccv on mine and could lift the mani had me stumped for hours...local mechanic didnt even know lol thanks for the vid bro
Had to run mine as a daily for a year or so, after I got sick of constantly fixing my E60... the E60 was a 545i, manual with sport package, and low miles... something broke every time I looked at it. The Euro E28 525i broke once... and that was only because a chipmunk decided to hang out next to the belts, and promptly got chewed up by the alternator belt!
helo friend, Iam from Colombia south america, I see your videos..Iam assemble a head of 630 CS carburated model 77. i wish you can help me on torque zises...the calibration of yhe valves, an torque off the head...an otherwise if you have a video of the assembly of the same head you can redirect me on how to obtain...I really appreciate your help....thanks...
I recently did the rear 5 lug swap and also had the same brake issue you talked about. I ended up upgrading my brake master cylinder to the 5 or 7 series one, cant remember, but it didn't fix my issue. Deleted the ABS, still didn't fix my issue. Checked the calipers... they were on the wrong sides. The nipples were pointed downward which continually trapped air in the system and wouldn't come out regardless how many times I power bled the brakes. Swapped them to their appropriate sides and orientations and viola, no more spongey brakes that went to the floor. Love the new suspension on your build man, looks mean! Can't wait to my fronts.
Hell yeah man! Thanks for sharing that awesome tip. Gonna pin this in case anyone else has the same issue 👍 very well worth the headache upgrading the system!
Another good video. Thank you. I fund 1983 BMW 733i with smashed right front corner. The owner is asking 3000$ he said the frame need to adjust it's another 400$ he says. it's auto tranny need front right panel, hood and headlight to replace.
Hello Juan! From what I remember I flipped the caliper upside down to use the E30 brake lines that they would reach. BUT depending on how low you go you can actually use them in the e36 orientation. Send us a dm via Instagram and I'll send you some pictures of the set up! 🙏
If I messed up and didn't label the rocker arm shafts how do I determine which is which? There are two long and two short and I get what your saying in the video with the threaded ends out but as far as the head bolts if you spin the rod it gets confusing. I see in the parts list each has a different part number so that means all 4 are unique??
Hey Kris! Thanks for reaching out! Yes all four are unique and should not be mixed up. If you go to realoem.com and input your vin it will notate all the part number and orientation but in short, the shafts receive oil via the head through passages that line up with the shafts as well as the rocker shaft retaining rings and springs will line up with the rocker and cam shaft to position it accordingly. Best way to figure out the orientation is to set the shafts on top of the head and visually line up the oil feed holes where the rockers go and line those up with the cam lobe. Once you identify the pattern it will be a little more obvious as to which shaft goes where. If you have any more trouble please reach out via Instagram or email and we can chat some more! 🙏