I knew nothing and I've wanted a printer since 2013. I started with this printer in the first quarter of 2022. But it's shortcomings are probably what educated me in what to look for in a printer and what not to do. It's no longer the same printer. New board, added another z stepper. New direct drive extruder(recompile Marlin). The fans were horrible. That was the biggest reason to put a more modern board in it(recompile Marlin). I also replaced that jumper wire in the PSU with a thermal switch so the fan runs after it reaches 35c I think. I remember adding a bed probe(recompile Marlin) to it before adding the second z stepper(again, recompile Marlin, then switched to Klipper). Which led to me troubleshooting weird elephant's foot on the far right side of the bed. That's when I learned that no matter what I did the right side of the gantry would lag until it was lifted a few more millimeter on the left side. 300mm width gantry should have a dual lead screw and at least a timing belt between the two. Last, and what probably should have been first, was adding magnetic plate and PEI spring steel sheet to the bed. I was completely fine with printing on that textured glass plate until I enclosed the printer in a tent and started ASA/ABS. I could not keep ASA stuck to the glass. It kept lifting. Textured PEI completely solved that issue. This machine was then able to print the functional Voron Trident parts I needed to retire the LK5. I could definitely see someone less determined getting frustrated with a machine lacking some of the features mentioned above and quitting the hobby. Most notably the second z rod. I didn't touch this machine for 8 month's of 2022. I don't see how the LK could be sold in 2024 for it's current price. How many people need that build volume? I've never used 50% of the height. I wouldn't recommend this as a first printer for the average person. I'd put this printer in the cheap neat toy category and not in the useful tool category. Maybe it's like learning to drive a manual transmission before driving an automatic transmission.
i would have really not tasted and swallowed that clay... in nature, at some site, in the forest... yes, no issues but out of that bag? from a factory you have no clue what they are doing? theres so much ewy chemistry added to modeling clay.... to be honest i feel like if you ate a teaspoon of every clay you could buy in the stores here, some would be no issue, and some would be a painway way to go
i have 4 lk5 pros, they are in my basement where the rest of my printers are located and i dont hear anything, i guess i am used to the noise and drown it out. But your fans do sound louder than the 4 of mine combined. I did how ever replace all the fans with much better fans, even at that the stock fans were not as loud as the one you have. printing issues are very minimal. i hardly dry any of my filament and get awesome prints. I have to believe that most of your issues are subjective to you in my opinion. I have a ender 3 S1 pro and it sits under the desk collecting dust because of all the issues i have with it. i hope you get these figured out because the lk5 pro does really produce some high quality prints.
dont be so arrogant lol, it should be one of the easiest, and you can use s larger siringe fixed to the frame just above a drill screw printer head. i have read clay printers use heating, and with a hair dryer you would have succesfuly printed complex clay forms as it dries. also one of the simplest way would be clay powder sintering with a solar lense heating the clay dust with jet binder at 1400 degrees, you can keep the motors outside the furnace enclosure with chain belts and zero plastic 3d printer
@@ConstantijnC i wouldnt do it alone and this is a faulty approach that has made youtube worthless and so poor full of merchandise sellers and helpless doingitalone, as anything needs to be done by several people and have feedback from viewers, im already talking with pottery people in the area
I have to build my own paste extruder for my grad school thesis work. Here are a few notes that I have that may help others in the future. First of all there's a chemical called darvan 7 which increases the fluidity of the clay (deflocculation). If you keep adding water to the clay it will have cracking and strength issues due to shrinkage during water loss. Secondly as others have said, adding cellulose fibers (e.g. egg cartons in blender works well) will improve the working properties of the clay. Lastly as others have also said, is better to start from a dry mix of clay and then add all of the extra ingredients that you need and the exact amount of water that you need. Wedging it or running it through a pug mill is also important to remove air bubbles and to increase plasticity but do not over wedge the clay.
Another shortfall is the controller and file handling. In these days where so many have tackled the challenge of file handling, these guys are still in the mid-eighties. The controller will only display a limited number of files on the root of the SD card and it does this badly. In some cases, there is a missing (blank) line where a file should be and choosing a displayed file does not always give you the file you selected. In some cases, you can select the blank line and get a file but not necessarily the file you know to be on the card that is not showing up in the list. You can't convince me that Longer software developers have not seen this. It is too easy to reproduce. There are amateurs using open source boards and software who can do better. I give this a D for Do Over.
Really I waited the whole time to hear something bad and your only complaint is the fan…….pathetic way to get a view.good way to get a comment I guess smfh
I was pretty interested in 3D clay printing and joined the Google+ group with Tom Lauerman and others that were doing amazing stuff, but then Google+ shut down and the group kind of disbanded, and I left it at that. Maybe one day.
Nice analysis. May I add the first thing that I noticed. I am new to 3D so I went through a little youtube training (thanks to all those who provide it) and saw the accepted method for loading and unloading filament. After my third cycle, the printer would not run due to filament missing. Inspection of the limit switch for the filament showed that the lever on the switch was broken at the tip. Yes, not worn, but broken. The lever portion of the switch is 0.5mm thick and the shape is such that drawing an unloaded filament out will break it. I have had to amend the process to clean cut the filament being extracted at the extruder gear and then pulling it out. Longer did not choose the limit switch wisely and could have used switches with much more robust levers at no increase in cost.
Wow bud I should tell you As a consumer of many 3-D printers, I got six of them. Anyways always look on the SD card. If you’re plans aren’t complete that’s the rule of thumb and if you don’t understand that you’ve not been in the game for a very long, sir.
Reading that today made me think it mite have came off like I was trying to be an assh##@. I’m sorry for that That was not my intentions. Anyway, have a great day.
@@codyparker6118 that’s super nice, but it’s really no problem! I understand how my video would attract comments like yours. In fact, you were far from the only one, so I’ll change my recipe for future videos
I took mine right out of the box and didn't need to adjust any of the guide wheels and the bed was perfectly level. I have printed over 60 different things on it and the bed is still level and I haven't needed to adjust it at all
I bought mine slightly second hand, previous owner used it allegedly for a short time just to "test it". Soon noticed that the heat bed is a little concaved in the middle, no matter how many times I leveled it, it's still like this. Then I noticed that the Y-belt tilts to the one side on the stepper pulley. Was sure, that the stepper bracket isn't completely right angled,. It was. The real reason was, that the belt had a twist in it. And since it was hidden in the extruded aluminium frame, you really couldn't see it. And those metal clips that hold down the class cover, scrape off the coating from the copper rails off the heat bed...
No, that’s great to hear! Many people took issue with my assessment. In hindsight, I still would have recommended people not to buy, but I shouldn’t have been so hard on the company and this printer. I’ve put around 500-1000h on it and it’s been running very reliably, apart from the ptfe lining in the nozzle which started charring as expected and the belts on the x axis which started tearing themselves apart in a way I didn’t see coming. The tensile members kind of pulled themselves out of the neoprene… super strange. Both issues were easy to fix though. Will do better in the future 👍
You have some valid points, but over all too much whining about fan noise, yea I can buy better fans and prob will, but I bought mine refurbed from longer for under 200 usd so I can fix the minor issues, and still be under the cost of a factory new printer
That was awesome! This is the video I have been looking for, A new subscriber for sure. I am in the process of making a video on 2D printer to do the same thing but it will be done inside of a toasted so that I can put my bread in and have a finished piece of toast covered in a layer of whatever is chosen! Your extruder will help a lot so thank you!
Hey! Thanks for the video! I just bought this machine and I'm looking for safety glasses. Do you a have a brand in particular or any orange glasses will do the job with a blue laser?
The official language of the WORLD is English, asshole! And since you speak English, stop bitching and making a big deal about every single minute thing you can find. Not even three minutes into this video, and I already don't like you. Probably won't finish it, as it seems a waste of time and there are better reviewers for this product. This is already the worst review I've seen on this printer, and the funny thing is I'm only being a tiny bit as anal about your shortcomings as you were about those of this printer...
Yes, but that’s the case with almost all of these kinds of 3d printers. I got a bit emotional because it just felt so incredibly lazy. Longer had to take the beating unfortunately, but all those other „ender 3 style“ printers probably would have had it just as bad. They’re treating the consumer like an idiot who wouldn’t notice their design shortcomings or blame future issues on the consumer themself.
It’s the standard 0.4mm nozzle that most printers use. You can use the e3d v6 style nozzles or the pointier mk8 ones that other Chinese printers usually use. The mk8 style nozzle comes standard with this printer. Those two kinds of nozzles look a bit different to each other on the outside but they both fit. After changing the nozzle, make sure to level your bed again because of possible differences in nozzle length. You can also change the orifice diameter to something else. Just make sure to change that diameter within your slicer as well.
