Main goal of the channel is to document the DIY work I do on a daily basis. From Automotive work, to house renovation, to work around my property, this channel will cover it all.
Great video, I’m about to tackle this on an 04 Wrx wagon I just purchased. I haven’t done brake lines before, but what’s a better time than now to learn right 😂
I'm thinking if you put a pipe T in that fitting stack right at the filter, you could use standard fittings for your first drop and save that first set of fancy custom fittings for another drop.
Tip for people about to do this. You don’t need to remove the radiator if you’re not doing the water pump. My hardware was so rusty I wasn’t messing with it at all. You will have enough room to do the job with hand tools.
Thank you for the tips at the end for what to watch out for such as bleeding all four brakes despite just doing rear brake lines. Please just keep it simple like you are now (even when you get to be Scotty Kilmer). Some of us have major health issues and our brains don't function like they used to lol. Thanks again, you and your family stay well and stay safe,
First off, great video and thank you for posting this. A few things though. You said how overwhelming this seemed to you at first. EXACTLY! I have an '09 and have done brakes, calipers, spark plugs/wires, timing belt with water pump and everything around there since I had access (worst experience of my life and never again lol), all four struts...took me 2 hours on the first and then 2 hours for the next 3, rust restoration, new exhaust, new ebrake, oil sending unit...on and on....but this is pushing my limits. Sorry for the rambling, but there is a point to it lol. Don't you wish you could have watched someone fumble with it (you skipped these parts and I get that), make mistakes, tell us your thought process and why it worked or didn't (you did a great job of this when filming). Questions: 1. How much brake line did you really need? I don't want to get 25' line but I don't see anything but that. however, if I know how much you used, that would help (including the amount you screwed up since I need to add that in for me (ALWAYS screw things up the first time around). 2. Anything you had to go back and fix or adjust after you thought you were done? 3. I don't have a lift, any recommendations to make the job easier in lieu of the lift? I would just jack it. 4. Glad you mentioned the details of the HF kit. I bought one off Amazon to save money and it was refrigerator line with nothing I needed lmao. $25 ....get what you pay for and I know that but like many, I am budgeting my monthly paycheck to the penny with no extras such as buying food out etc. So don't bust my balls too much although buying a cheap Chinese set deserves it lol. If you get this and can anwer just one thing, please let me know approx how much brake line you used or should I just get the 25' one? Thanks and will be watching your other videos you put out as I just subscribed. thanks
You can get Oregon blades for half the cost of those factory blades I have a cub cadet zero turn they wanted 100.00 for a set of new blades found Oregon had waay better quality blades never looked back
Haven't done it yet on this model. On my older 42" you can lower the deck as low as it will go and unhook everything ... the decks aren't that heavy, and then slide it out from under the mower.
I also did not mark where the two gears meet (1/2 moon and the shaft gear) where approximately should they be alligned when wheel are straught forward? Thanks - should have watched your video before I replaced all stearing parts, did not realize those 4 bolts could be removed from under carrage, near impossible from top side. Thanks Again / Jerry
@@TwoFourSevenDIY would love a video about removing the slop from the caster bushings that are the vertical ones that the wheel rotates right and left on. I really enjoyed your video though :-)
This guys is full of shit. You can use this Subaru tranny on whatever Subaru you want from 1989-21 it’s a push style clutch same as the 98-01 impreza rs, only one that’s different is 02-04 pull style clutch. And some others but you can run whatever one you want with the right pressure plate, slave cylinder style, and correct final drive rear diff to match. I run a 07 wrx 5mt behind an 06 sti all in the shell of a 1985 Subaru awd rx turbo sedan. It fits.
I have the same issue as that with a 2003 Subaru legacy. I'm gonna pray real real hard that I can just stitch fix the line leaking. Probably won't be that lucky. But I'm gonna try.
Brooooooooo those arms match my wheels perfectly color wise LMAO. I may have to pick these up for my bugeye now @TwoFourSevenDIY where did you purchase these from?
ayyy same here, my heart sank into my stomach when i found out i would have to drop my whole rear subframe to replace these but this is gonna save me SO much time money and pain. 04 turbo wagon 4 ever!!
Thank you for this video, it is going to help me tremendously. I am hoping you can help me a little. I am doing the same repair with the exception that I am also replacing the evaporator. Similar to yourself, I purchased a prefilled compressor from rock auto (UAC), but I just can't figure out if the amount of oil in the compressor is enough for the entire system, or if have to add more to the evaporator and the condensor. I have looked everywhere to try and find the total oil amount required vs. the amount of oil in the compressor, but I just cannot figure it out.
I'll have to look at mine, but there should be a sticker either under the hood or on the upper radiator support that lists the system capacity. Off the top of my head I think 4oz is the amount but don't quote me. Most of the time the prefilled compressors have enough oil for the whole system. Even though I did not replace my evaporator, I did flush it so essentially my system was completely empty and the prefilled compressor I used has worked flawlessly without issues with the prefilled amount it came with.
@@TwoFourSevenDIY I am reading the sheet that came delivered with the compressor today and if I am reading it correctly they are suggesting for me to empty the new pre-filled compressor of its oil, pour half back in the compressor, and split the other half between the evaporator and condenser. So while I cannot find the actual capacity number anywhere, this does seem to indicate that the pre-filled oil is enough for the whole system, which makes sense as yours is working well. Thanks for the reply by they way, I really appreciate it.
Hola compañero,tengo un impreza hawkeye y queria preguntarte si los palieres yraseros tienen holguras cuando los mueves con la mano seria normal o tendria que pensar cambiarlo
Great video! I did this repair on my lawn tractor for almost 10 years ago and it helped a lot on the handling of my lawn tractor. I think it would have been better if these bushings was made of aluminum compared to plastic because then they would have been more durable and lasted way longer than they do.
I have been enjoying the mods to the old 917 project. I am guessing you didn’t get much snow ☹️ as I wasn’t able to see it in action. Hope the belt you ordered did the trick 👍
The belt did end up doing the trick. And yea we didn't get much snow, I only had to use the blow three times this year and each time it was only an inch or two and was hoping to get more that would be more worthwhile to film. Hopefully this winter I can use it more and get a video of it in action.
Just followed the exact steps for my 2009 Subaru Outback but for some reason no brake fluid is coming through the lines to the rear calipers. Pumped the brakes few times and opened the bleeder valve, still nothing. Any help?
When there is a lot of air in the lines, it can be very difficult to pump enough pressure to move the air out. You can try disconnecting the hard line connection where it goes into the soft line for the caliper and wait until it gravity bleeds and fluid begins to come out (Can take some time and make sure you remove the brake reservoir cap) Or you can try a pressure bleeder. There are two types. One type is a positive pressure, it clamps onto your master cylinder and you hand pump it pushing the fluid through the lines. The other is a negative pressure where it attaches to your bleed nipple and uses compressed air to draw vacuum and pull the fluid through the lines. Of course with all this make sure you never run the master cylinder dry or you will have a different set if problems on your hands
@@TwoFourSevenDIY copy that. Mine locked up and caused total carnage. Also that 5th gear bearing has some play brand new. Check the bearing clearance at temp. Cuz they expand and get tighter
This was helpful. I'm doing the evaporator and expansion valve today. Had a leak I couldn't find and hoped it was there. After removing the old one I see dye on it so I think I've found my leak. I'd like to change the receiver/drier too but I'm going to skip it if I cant do it without creating another big job
Usually need a diagnostic computer capable of abs service that activates the abs unit and cycles the air out. I have heard of people taking the car out if there's at least enough brake pressure to be safe and you can get it up to like 30mph and slam on the brakes activating the abs unit and doing it that way
