I've done a couple of v8's outdoor and indoor and im worried its gunna take me a while to get to v9, (it took me a whole 3 months to get to v8 from v7) hopefully this vid helps
I'm a newbie to climbing, but I really enjoy the sport and want to encorporate some drills into each gym session, so that I can hopefully progress quickly and get rid of some bad habits early on. This video was great!! Can't wait to try out some of these drills tomorrow!
i would definitely watch more. have you thought about doing more casual videos? not necessarily on a specific topic, just climbing, commentary on the used technique or just vibin
Hey Buddy, thanks for the video. I am also a big fan of tennis, and just started to pick up the interest of bouldering. I just have a concern and you would be the perfect person to answer given your experience. Given tennis requires very loose grip on 90% of the time, do you think climbing might make your wrist too tight to play tennis and hurt it sometimes? The reason I ask is every time I play tennis within 1 day or 2 of playing badminton, I will find my wrist not be able to relax enough and it hurts the next day. So I stop playing badminton for a long time. Not sure if you have similar experience with climbing + tennis? I am a bit hesitating on taking climbing as my next best hobby just for this concern, hope to get some thought from you. Thanks!
Amazing breakdown really. I have to try these. Since I still have fairly low power, learning good technique is really important for me, and will benefit me later I'm sure.
Im no expert but I think you might be a little off on fast twitch muscle fibers. I thought the same way you did bc of the name but with more research, lifting heavy also builds the fast twitch, so its not only moving fast that builds fast twitch. Actually, there are two types of fast switch, type 2a and type 2x. Type 2a is for strength training and type 2x is speed and power. There is usually more 2a muscle fibers than 2x and 2a has moderate fatigue resistance while 2x is low. So Id imagine static lockoff is type 2a and the dynamic is 2x.
Your channel is amazing. Different content and approach from what I’ve seen elsewhere and you break things down really well, great amount of why, a little biomechanics so we can understand how to apply beyond just “do this drill” (the drills are great too obviously). I’m just becoming an “intermediate” climber and your videos are so helpful, thank you for making them!
I call it "Gravity point Climbing". The gravity point is in your hips, if you bring that point above the surface of your feetsteps you climbed like a professional (also in lower grade like a 4a). For sure this need hip flexibility (Frog) . When we stand we need no power in the hands, all the weight is above our feet surface , Climbing is so easy in contrary to Tennis or Table tennis ! :)
I'm so glad I discovered your channel. I binged through all your videos, I will definitely have to rewatch a few as they're so incredibly dense. Amazing work. Suggestion: a board/moonboard specific technique video and how to milk it for gains. I feel like this would then add certain limits to the video and be easily digestible.
Or, power lock offs as Niten Ichi-ryū: welding both the long sword (slow-twitch) and the short sword (long-twitch) in one unified style. 😃 (Couldn't help but spy on your complete Vagabond volumes in the background! I just hope that story gets completed in our life-time. 😑)
Nah mate, that ain't right. Fundamentally, the fast twitch lock off that you are suggesting is not an issue of power, but of control. The reason why the max-effort pull is so jittery and unstable is because the amount of momentum generated was too much. If the climber generated slightly less force and maintained the accuracy of their limbs during the move then climber3 = climber2. It's not the case that climber3 can't generate enough. The whole point is that they are buffering their force in a position that has maximum leverage and then carrying that momentum into the transition state of the move. The problem is that climber3 misjudged how much is necessary and so fumbles once they try to leave the transition state. Also, climber1's method is not necessarily more powerful than the other two. Climber1 could be pulling with their hamstrings, hips etc in ways that isn't clear on video. This is akin to kipping or other 'improper' form that cheats the exercise. Are your legs touching the bar in a pullup? No. Can they still help? Of course. I personally think that talking about slow vs fast twitch muscle fibers is a little redundant and confusing to the lesson presented here. The lesson is not that the human body has certain characteristics that we can optimize by doing certain things in certain ways. The lesson is that it is perfectly reasonable to swing into a position. Lockoff to stabilize, then grab onto the final hold. If you must relate this to anatomy then: Doing it this way converts the lock-off from a a concentric contraction (our weakest type) to an isometric or an eccentric (both of which our muscles are far more optimized for). At no point in climbing is it necessary to do a one arm pullup, and the more you feel like you are doing that the more you should rethink your technique. Professional climbers are stronger than us plebians but they would still use less power in these lockoffs despite this. Regardless of your strength, it pays to learn to be precise with throws and to chop complex moves into several pieces you can perform individually. Also, there is no reason why throws can't be 'controlled'. Saying that you lose control the moment you start a dynamic sequence is willfully ignorant. Take a look at v9+ rock climbers doing v4 dynos and you'll see what I mean.
I’m not prescribing people do a one arm pull up, that was just a discussion on distinguishing it from a deadpoint. I don’t mention hamstrings since this is a series and I mention lower body usage in the beginner lock off video. Climber 3 cannot become climber 2 by using less force, the scenario sets them up as generating the SAME amount of force but with less fast twitch fibers. It's a matter of how many fast twitch fibers are required to generate the minimum amount of force to pull the move.
Nearly all lock off movements that aren't on a slab will require the full range of type II fast-twitch fibers. Locking off isn't a slow twitch movement, if it was you'd be able to lockoff for hours as you'd be able to rely on oxidative capacity. Lock offs tap heavily into the IIx spectrum of fibers in the upper body. If force produced for a deadpoint comes mostly from the hips, you would require even less power output in the upper body - meaning well executed deadpoints would require substantially fewer fast-twitch fibers in the upper body musculature. Also on the distinction between a slow one arm pull and a fast one arm pull - it's not slow-twitch vs fast-twitch (again, assuming its not a slab); its IIa vs IIx/b (both fast-twitch) but both will still tap both type II variants, the fast pull will just require more IIx/b. Also, do enough static lockoffs in a row and the IIx fibers will be recruited regardless (henneman's size principle). And in ALL cases, the slow twitch fibers were recruited because of Henneman's size principle.
Hi, thanks for clarifying! I'll pin this to the top. Like I said, I'm not trained and wanted this to be more of an illustrative example of how to approach movement (particularly managing movement speed & risk, realizations that not all lock offs have to go slow). I'll definitely research what you've mentioned here to improve in the future. As for the deadpoint force stuff, i had intended that to be overall speed that the entire body travels rather than force generated from the upper body muscles specifically. I can see how that can be confusing and will consider that for visuals in the future. However, your comment on both IIa and IIx/b using both fast twitch fibers seems like it should go against Henneman's, so I was wondering if you had any suggested readings on that topic?
@@BetaBoiBrandon I do appreciate the video :) I haven't seen anyone else talk about it, I started called these as lockpoints in my head a while ago, to encompass the idea that its not quite a pure deadpoint, not quite a pure lockoff. Hope more dicussion happens around this in the community. Maybe I explained poorly; both type IIa and IIx are fast twitch, but on the spectrum of Henneman's principle, IIa's will fire first. However, due to faituge and motor unit cycling, if I do enough static lock offs in a row then the principle dictates I will eventually tap into all of my IIx fibers. Where as with a pure limit campus move like a 1-5, nearly all IIx are fired from that single rep. It was more about the nuance taking into account that a static lockoff happens within a series of moves, and by th time you perform that lockoff due to fatigue and cycling you may very well be recruiting the full range of type II within that one move.
Haha I like ‘lockpoint’ a lot, I’ll start using that as well. Also that explanation with fatigue/cycling makes a lot of sense, thank you again for all your clarifications. Lots of great learnings for me here :)
