Join us as we restore history and preserve the technologies and materials that made our civilization great!
History is inspiration. It is pride. It is dignity. The finest attributes of civilization. Without them, we descend into barbarism. The world is cloaked in the darkness of feudalism. We must take back our history from those who despise us and our predecessors! Bitter cat ladies and hipsters should not be permitted to monopolize the interpretation of our history.
On this channel, our objective is to encourage the preservation of the history and the hope which we inherited from three thousand years of Western Civilization. We will do this through visiting forgotten and neglected historic sites, showing how one with a low budget can preserve history, and giving brief tutorials on different aspects of the historic trades that can easily be learned and replicated.
you say anyone can do it, yet your work looks horrible and you seem to lack the cognitive ability required to do an adequate job... enjoyed the video regardless.
'Building a lime kiln requires skill and patience and time. Sometimes, time is lacking. '- OK. Lets say skill and patience are also lacking. I am therefore going to build one anyway! This felt like a little rascals episode..must be the music. Nice build!
@@jsmythib Yeah, I was definitely pressed for time. This one did ok for one season anyway. My goal by the end of this year is to build another one modeled on some of the existing ones I’ve got access to for copying designs and materials.
I LOVED this . I am a big fan of Laurel and Hardy and the music was just like I was watching them , perfect . I liked it so much I had to like and subscribe plus I restored a Victorian Farm house years ago that took first place in a national competition . Now Im disabled so I'm going to live through you guy's .
Always secure the timber with dogs! The first axes you looked at were not that expensive then, if thats what you paid for this one. Try stropping the axe instead of stone.
"17 As iron sharpens iron,So one man sharpens his friend." Proverbs 27:17 ( By iron, iron itself is sharpened. So one man* sharpens the face of anothe) żelazem , nie kamieniem.
Your videos are amazing. Informative and entertaining. I seriously don't understand how you don't have more views. RU-vid makes you grind harder than when making shingles, apparently.
Honestly, I’m kind of amazed that I’ve gotten as many views as I have. I think if I published more regularly, it would be a big help and the RU-vid gods would reward me. As it is, it takes me FOREVER to film and edit some of these, especially the one I’m working on now. As it is, thanks for watching and welcome to the channel!
Dictum offers a comparable Breitbeil for about 440. Not quite as nice but also hand forged and fully functional. I'm afraid they only ship to european countries, though.
There are quite a few films on my channel that demonstrate hewing, though mostly softwoods, there are some from the viking-ship build that demonstrate hewing oak and ash. They might be helpful to you for the next time you hew to learn some technical guidelines for reducing the effort needed to hew. I learnt via the living tradition in Norway. For example you might consider a change in the edge anatomy of your broad axe, so as to be able to hew without barking your knuckles. You have an indomitable spirit, all the best, Lucas.
Wonderful. I've used lime for decades...watching your film warmed the cockles of my heart! I love living in cob houses with lime plaster, and thatch. In UK. Great to see elsewhere.
It definitely was a consideration. Unfortunately, this log was a bit too small to make two posts and too big for one post. I originally wanted this timber for a floor joist but when I saw how much sapwood there was, I had to change its final destination. Splitting it would have made two Timbers with too much sapwood. Once I got it worked down and the mortises cut, I knew I made the right choice.
Do you have any rules of thumb (or historic references) for laying plain plank floors in buildings that aren't climate controlled? Built plenty of furniture, but never laid flooring and will be doing this in a workshop in the future and didn't just want to start laying planks and banging in square nails with no prior insights. Thanks and looking forward to the next vid.
An excellent question! Generally, all my work is in replacing something that’s probably worked for over a hundred years. That makes it easy for me. With floors, I’ll copy exactly what worked before, down to the hand planed tongue and groove boards and proper nails. If it is new construction like I’m doing for myself, not climate controlled, I pretty much use the same simple methods. The key would be ensuring that there’s enough ventilation. What my practice has been is to put down green planks, screwed usually, and after they dried and shrank, I pull them up and tighten them up to close any gaps. After that initial drying and tightening, the flooring shouldn’t experience enough swelling from moisture to have any noticeable impact. But that’s mostly down to a proper balance of ventilation and protection from the elements. My recommendation would be to put your planks down with screws, see how they do for six months or so. If everything seems good, replace the screws with nails and you’re set. If the planks are swelling and shrinking more than you can tolerate, I’d try to establish better ventilation. This springhouse, I expect, will be a real challenge in this regard. So much water and humidity to contend with, I’ll probably learn a lot from the experience myself.
i have an insane desire to teach myself how to get really good (or at least decent) at doing most of the same thing you are doing,keep up the good work
The best part about learning this stuff is about 80% of the info was published at some point in the 19th Century. The other 20% is just practice and a bit of experience.
@@davidreed2135 I like Underhill. Alex Bealer, too. This fence series, though, is from a hundred and some odd page paper published by the New York Agricultural Society in the 1850’s. Painfully detailed stuff.
The easiest long log of timber I've riven was mulberry. American beech is awful I would never recommend riving it unless it's a miraculous piece. The oaks can be great but when the diameter is big there can always be some large knots that you couldn't really see were inside. Good video. This kind of work is special to me partly because of Lincoln.
The easiest I’ve ever split was a twelve foot length of English Chestnut I found somewhere. If American chestnut is anything like it, it explains its use as the premier fence rail material years ago. I’ve got ten American chestnut saplings on the way and I’m hoping I can keep them alive long enough to make a couple of fence rails each. In the meantime, I’ve got the log off of this particular tree(pin oak) to tackle when I work up the nerve to do it.
@@HiraethRestorations It's really terrible we don't get to see and use american chestnut as a resource. Such an ecological disaster. I would not feel any need to go see the redwoods if we had trees on the east coast of similar diameter and I've heard the flowerings were beautiful. I've riven pin oak for axe handles (i'm crazy). Honestly not bad at all but 3/4s of the log was relatively clear. Pins aren't an issue. It's the big knots that kill ya.
@HiraethRestorations one of my favorite trees but I don't see them very big around here. I believe they get bigger closer to the Appalachian mountains. Black locust didnt seem nice to rive otherwise I'd try that.
I meant to bring one of my axes with a narrower bit for slicing into the tree. This particular axe has a thick bit that felt like I was trying to fell a tree with a splitting maul.
@HiraethRestorations even if you had a file it's no fun to reprofile and thin the cheeks on sight. I could see the axe didn't penetrate much. Have you tried a long handle hookaroon for moving logs? Not sure if dragging this stuff would have been easier though.
