Rebuilding and customizing golf carts. Some of them from the frame up. Questions? You can reach me at jeffstege@yahoo.com. Or find me on Facebook at “Kart Krazy”
Nice makeover, I really like how much that cart changed by getting rid of the tan seat covers and roof. BTW, I've been meaning to ask if you own a Snap-On truck or are you just wealthy?
Did you have to connect any signal wires to the charger? I just installed the Vatrer 72v on a Cushman Hauler and cart won’t move. Was told it’s because the signal wires on old charger loom need to be connected to new charger. Sounds legit?
Not too sure on a Cushman, but as long as you hook all the wires that were on the positive and all the wires that were on the negative from your old battery, it should work… does it have a tow run switch? Did you put it in tow while changing the batteries? Something might have arched
I had it in tow mode. Someone said they were the interlock wires and that I should connect them together as a closed circuit and that should solve the issue. I’ll let you know if that works. The Cushman’s are different beasts. Thanks for responding!
There was very little parts available and what was available was very expensive. I sold it and moved on to another project. Thanks for your interest, sorry to disappoint you 😢
WATCH OUT FOR THAT '8 YEAR WARRANTY', IT IS PRO RATED FROM THE DAY YOU PURCHASE IT. ALSO IF YOU HAVE ANY UPGRADES TO CONTROLLER OR MOTOR OR EVEN LIFT WITH MUD TIRES, WILL EVENTUALLY BREAK THE BMS!!! WE KNOW FROM EXPERIENCE. JUST HAD TO PAY HALF OF THE PRO RATED WARRANTY AFTER 2YR AND 3 MONTH INSTALL, REMOVED THE LID TO FIND A HORRID BURNT SMELL RIGHT OVER THE BMS WHICH IS JUST A MOTHERBOARD LIKE THE TOYPOW;ERLESS BATTERIES. BE CAREFUL FOLKS
Axis (and other off brand carts) are really the way to go if your buying brand new & looking for an off the coarse cart for recreational use, I have 4 carts (2 electric 2 gas) and none of them are used on a course and I have had to put thousands into them for upgrades over time to use at our campground. (lights, seats, wheels, tops etc)
My cart has an orange, blue (keyswitch), and black wire from where the lever style assembly used to be, where do I put my orange, blue, and black wires too?
I would definitely need more information… Like where the wires come from? what year is the cart? It’s kind of like trying to give a haircut over the phone
@@kartkrazy 2000 TXT 48V. the wires im talking about came off of the old FNR assembly. The old assembly had the orange wire leading to a microswitche , the black wire leading to a ground on the assembly, and the blue wire leading to a microswitch as well
I have a 2010 Club Car Precedent so my setup is different. I have 4 12 volt lead acid batteries and would like to do the conversion. Looks like my computer is in the middle like a console. 2 batteries on each side. Would I take out that computer completely to make room for the Allied?
@@terryalverson4741 you have to have the controller An easier option would be to get the Eagle kit from bigbattery.com then you would not have to move anything Make sure to use my promo code “stege10” at big battery if that’s the route you choose to go and save yourself some $$$
I too have the 2x2 precedent with the controller/computer in the middle. I have purchased the battery but needed to “remove” the controller to get the battery to fit. I have temporarily connected the battery to the neg and pos leads (4) and get power to the engine as planned (push pedal and go). But cart lights and horn do not work. in your video you talk about not needing the computer but in your response above it seems to indicate that you do need the controller. i’m not sure the difference? I’d love to remove the whole thing but not sure what to do about lights, horns and any other accessories
@@ABetterAngle there are three separate components 1. The controller … which you must have for the cart to work. 2. The OBC or onboard computer, which you no longer need after doing this conversion because that was for the original battery charger. 3. the voltage reducer which you must have in order to run lights, horn, etc.
first of all, thank you so much for a quick reply. Very helpful as I am in the cart working on it now. So of that huge metal thing which is the controller, and which is the computer. And from that wiring harness, which of those wires do I need and which of them do I not need. I.e. the stuff that goes to that metal panel which can I disconnect? Also, your videos are very good and inspirational. I think I’m gonna retrofit the entire cart. So thank you in advance.
@ABetterAngle I think it might be easier if you don’t disconnect anything and just slide everything over a little bit… I personally don’t have a video about doing it, but I know there is some on RU-vid that might be helpful for you
@@geoffreyshaffer8560 with a voltage reducer. I plan on doing a video on that soon, but I can give you a link to a video where I show it on a different cart
Hey Jeff I have a 2001 EZGO 36V with the manual F/R shifter that I want to convert to an electric switch. Any guidance you can provide? Step by step install video and parts list?
This video is the best for doing that conversion… is there something else specific I can help you with? As stated in the video, Karl @Ev Drives can get you all the parts
Good install, why didn't you center that battery pack for better weight balance? Plus you put 2 screws in for that huge battery, but 4 for the little charger???
Thank you! The battery tray had a step in it preventing me from a center install. Good catch on the 2 screws….this is temporary as I will be disassembling this cart for a full rebuild with additional screws or some type of hold down on the other side. Thanks for watching 😎👍🏻!
I love 💕 what you did to your golf cart awesome job keep doing what you love 💕 I love 💕 what your videos have a blessing day keep making videos love 💕 it
Your videos have saved me with my build. Now I am stuck I have a battery bucket with 4 batteries that is in bad shape. How can I use a new 6 batterie tub with four batteries??? Help please!!!
Unfortunately, they don’t sell the four battery buckets anymore so you would have to get creative and make your own brackets and things for the controller in the middle… The other option would be to get the aluminum plate that goes in the back of the six battery bucket
I really could use your help!! I bought a second hand 07 precedent previous owner said it needed new batteries but come to find out he was welding on a lift. Now won’t do anything.. any recommendations??
I installed the Vatrer 36V 105Ah battery in my EZ GO TXT PDS several months ago and have been very happy with it. Recently installed a 48V in a neighbors Club Car Precedent. This Lithium battery seems to be the best value in the market at this point.
Nice install, the thick plastic tray on Yamaha carts really allows for easy upgrades. Let us know how long or how many miles you get out of it on a full charge !
Arrrgh! I just replaced the antique lever switch in a 1980 TXT and then I saw this setup! I’m making a note of it and your install, it will look amazing when you get it all loom managed in there! Great job!
I just got a 2008 R&T going and there is not a lot of info out there to help. I had to figure everything out on my own but I now know this cart inside out. Had to replace controller with an Alltrax. Hint, the throttle sensor looks like an ITS but its output is a voltage source sensor. The motor on my cart was completely melted and had to be re-wound at a shop. Looks like most wiring was a mish-mash of “whatever they had on the shelf” because although the wiring was complete, the wire color would change at a connector for no reason at all and this made tracing wiring very difficult. The orange solenoids you pointed to were likely the forward-reverse select and the main contactor. The 4WD select is controlled by 2 automotive relays behind the dash. The 4WD selector servo on the front diff is a Yamaha unit- and mine was also toast. I’m not a RU-vidr (yet…) but HMU if you have any specific question on this R&T!
@@kartkrazy I see this comment so often. When it reality, it makes no difference at all. You're getting rid of 300 lbs of lead acid and replacing it with 90 lbs of lithium. You could hold the battery in your lap and the cart would ride just fine.
Good work, a suggestion, write down every step that you would take to perform the work, then put those on the screen and say at the same time like a list. Other than that, keep up the great work!!
Question: I’m completely new to golf carts and golf cart mechanics in general. What do you think the odds of a first timer doing a lithium conversion successfully? I just inherited from my mother in law a mint 2000 Ezgo Txt golf cart and the first thing I want to do is a lithium conversion, but the shops charge an arm and a leg.
@@kartkrazy What are your thoughts on a 48v 94Ah system like Badger EVO which is not as pricey as systems like Roypow or Trojan? What if the Ezgo txt we inherited is 36v?
@@chrisginoc battery EVO is a scam stay away. I would go with bigbattery.com and use my promo code “stege10” and save 10%!! They have 36 and 48v batteries
@kartkrazy most carts today and those you see in golf cart communities are already equipped to run headlights, horns, usb ports, sound bars, etc. They're not as basic as what you've shown. They need more.
Here is a link to the follow up video where we added headlights,tail lights, etc. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uu5iZQwU2Ec.htmlsi=-lCq9IUXYAiVRZAp
