Amazing video I have a 2018 dodge Durango gt ..love the lay out of all the information..got startled a bit when I thought I was gonna torque the rear breaks to 89..then noticed it’s for the disk..other than that it’s the best video I found..thank you for all the help..blessing my friend on a job well done.😊
I see you used heat shrink underneath the banana plug barrel rather than over it. Looks nicer that way. I was wondering if the sole purpose of using heat shrink over the barrel was to have a layer of protection to not cause a short if somehow the metal conductors touched each other.
I would think it's possible for there to be some type of "short" (even if minimal voltage) if any part of one end touched the other, regardless of where the shrink wrap was used. Just my thought. Nevertheless, I largely did it for security and looks. I didn't think it would look as clean with the shrink wrap directly on it. Plus I was concerned about the shrink wrap possibly coming undone on such an increase in size (being the wire is much thinner). Hope that answers your question.
I'd love to see the crowds reaction if this were played at electric forest. How many of them would have heard it before like everyone hee in the comments. How many would remember it. How many would just absolutely lose it during the base drops. Id love to witness all that stuff.
That's embarrassing on my part 😆. Thank you for the info. Interestingly enough, the website that sells the piece calls it the ignition switch. I realize the ignition switch and ignition lock cylinder are two parts of the pie. Nevertheless, I appreciate you bringing that to my attention (and that of others).
Great video because you explained it so simply and paced it well. THANKS! Was able to do this repair no problem. ***IF YOUR KEY IS STUCK AND CAN'T TURN TO ACC*** as mine was , I squirted several generous blasts of WD 40, tapped on the end of the key and other places while trying to turn it to loosen the pins: After about ten minutes, and after my youngest belted out a prayer in Jesus name for the thing to move, we got it moved. 2009 Sonata folks, there is an extra screw you have to detach and to get to it you have to pull out more of the left SIDE panel (the one pulled out initially.) Thanks again for the great video! Saved me 100's!
The parts in the video are absolutely acceptable. If getting these adjustable parts has an additional benefit, I suppose that could work for you, though it is not necessary. I have had no problem with the current parts as of now.
(FYI not a mechanic) Anytime you change the brake pads there's a decent possibility the rotors should be replaced or resurfaced. (Depending on the cost, it may be better to get new ones if you do it yourself). Also, if your wheel starts to vibrate when you brake, it's possible the rotor surface is uneven and needs to be replaced/resurfaced. Also, if the rotor surface is not smooth (and you can feel indentations), probably best to resurface/replace them.
You might want to see what you can find out about using anti-seize on those bolts. I'm hesitant to do that because by applying anti-seize, you're effectively adding a lubricant when you tighten the bolt and may over-tighten it when the bolt is torqued down.
Thank you for the feedback. That's a good point. I didn't show the horn on purpose. The video was made to show how to replace it, and hopefully address the reasons one sought to replace it in the first place. In my specific situation the new clock spring did not fix my horn problem because the wire/connector at the horn itself was what caused my horn to fail. That was one reason the horns may not work. The clock spring was another, yet not applicable to my situation. While I showed (I think) the buttons working in the beginning, you're right in that I should have showed them at the end too.
Most likely one of two things: battery problem or alternator problem. Battery: poor connection at terminals and bad battery. I would disconnect both ends of the battery, clean the terminals and reconnect them ensuring they are on tight and you can't pull them off by hand. For the battery and alternator, you can bring it to a local advance auto store and they should be able to check both for you. As helpful as it is, i have some bad experience with that in the past in that their equipment/"method" was poor and was saying the alternator was bad when it wasn't. Though you can go to multiple places for confirmation if you'd like. If it's neither the battery nor alternator, you may need to have a mechanic look into it. Or look in the engine bay for anything abnormal (strange colors on battery terminals, wires with bare copper exposed, etc) You can also purchase this tool yourself: amzn.to/4cDEV7i It allows you to test the battery/alternator and you have it for life. Plus it's pretty easy to use and is on sale $20 off as of this comment.
Thank you for the feedback. After doing some more serious repairs, this one is honestly pretty simple. It's also inside the car so rust shouldn't be an issue. Just be careful with wires and don't pull on the wires themselves. Pull on the connectors. Other than that, you saw how it goes. You got this!
@@ELITEkickBOXERfollowed your tutorial and changed mine. It fixed my horn issue. Thank you!!! However, the turn signal now no longer self cancel after a turn (I have to manually turn it off). Could it be from a mistake I made while changing it?
If your key is stuck in your ignition cylinder or you cannot turn the key, you can attempt the following: 1) Wiggle/play with the shifter to ensure it is in park (or try to put it in park and neutral and back again with your foot on the brake -- if this is possible), and perhaps this can free up the ignition cylinder. 2) Wiggle the steering wheel side to side while trying to move/turn the key. 3) Spray some lubricant into the ignition cylinder. 4) If these steps don't work, you can attempt some form of brute force (though you may inadvertently make the situation worse), search Google for other means, or contact a mechanic. ***If anyone has this issue and resolves it or has a different method, please reply to this comment so others can learn from your experience.
So what you’re saying is the ignition has to work in order to take it out??? What if when I put the key in it just moves freely, no positions to click into.
If the ignition is stuck and can't move, which does seem to occur for many people, my guidance ends there as I am not knowledgeable enough to answer that. If it moves free but does not click, as seems to be the case with you, I would think (though I could be wrong) that that would not be a problem. I say this because turning the key and putting it in a certain position allows a pin to be depressed (as shown in the video) and it can only occur if the key is in a certain position. I wouldn't think it matters if the key "clicks in position " only that in CAN go in the position noted in the video. Though if you attempt this, I am curious to know if that is the case.
@@15DurangoRT That's very interesting. My sources stated what I just told you. Well, I appreciate you bringing this up and letting me and other people know.
I haven't done brakes since about 1979 when I was 16, on my '66 GTO (with a transplanted & built 428 that hurt a LOT of feelings)! But what hurts MY feelings is the fact that I sold it for, brace yourself, $1,200! (HUNDRED!) Flawless white interior, with air! She'd literally jump the front wheels over a Pepsi bottle, with 3 passengers & a full tank of leaded pump gas! I still have dreams about finding it sitting in an old garage. Anyhoo, you, Sir, stated in a comment that you weren't a mechanic. You need to give yourself WAY more credit. I would not hesitate to pay you well to do ANY wrenching on anything I own, and any automotive instructor would be honored, privileged & fortunate to have you step in & train students in the PROPER way things should be done. Absolutely stupendous presentation from start to finish. Excellent tool prep, camera angles, lighting, descriptions, explanations & clear, to the point flow. I just can't imagine ANYONE doing it better than you did here, Brother. Total respect & thanks for so selflessly taking the time. I don't dread it nearly as much as I did 48 minutes ago, or 45 YEARS ago! Subscribed. Peace! -David Innis ✌️🤜👍
Thanks for this video. Just did the upgrade on mine. The video was well paced and you made it very easy to follow, almost in realtime as I was doing it.
