It's very interesting you chose not to remove the bolt assembly or trigger housing many other videos I have watched they removed them to keep them from the heat I'm glad I watched this video to see you have a diffent option.
As this was from many years ago, I can only comment to the best of my memory. Having said that, if I remember correctly, the heat applied was directed at the threads. I believe that about an inch or two from where the heat was directed it was warm but only like it was left out in the sun (i.e., not dangerously hot). It's possible, as you saw, that certain parts don't need to be removed. Of course, if you want to play it as safe as possible, take those parts out. Whatever you're more comfortable with is what you should do.
@@ELITEkickBOXER it's a very good video do you know if they use same loctite you made it look super simple I'm just nervous to try it on my own it is after all a 2,000 dollar shotgun
Thank you so much for Part 1 and 2! Really helpful, as I am going to do each of those mods. I have all the parts in hand, and you video was perfect for illustrating how to do each step. Much appreciated!
Dude you’re awesome. I followed all your instructions step by step and did all the upgrades plus installed a Hayl-Rail from Strike and a vertical folding grip from LWRC. Yes I fucked up a few steps and had redo lol, you live n learn Brutha..Thx.
No you did a good job! I like that that you didnt fast forward through it. Often times gunsmiths fast forward and miss key parts that are precisely why you are watching it.
No need to remove the bolt to heat the tube and release the loctite, just steadily move the flame around on the tube near the threads and when wisps of smoke and a smell begin to emminate, stop heating and start turning (USE THICK LEATHER WORK GLOVES)
From what I read Benelli is using red loctite now. From the tech data sheet, you have to heat to 450F to remove red loctite. Remove trigger and stock first. I tried to remove mag tube on a Charles Daly 601 DPS for an hour, with about 5 minute heat sessions with heat gun set to 500F and it wasn't budging. I don't know what the actual temp was, but I'm trying again tomorrow using my IR thermometer to make sure it's not getting too hot. At 450 I'm wondering if it's damaging anything or weakening the receiver. Can't be good for springs like on the bolt release. UPDATE:Well I tried my heat gun at highest setting, 800F, but it seemed to be starting to get the entire receiver too hot, so I broke out my map torch. Took about 30 seconds each to remove mag tube and and stock tube. Way better than heat gun.
I just bought a M4 from a friend, it already had the extended tube, but I can only get 6 shells in, and the 7th goes about 7/8ths the way in and seems to be bottoming out the spring.
I have heard that removing the spring retainer will give you that extra space needed but it every time you break the gun down for cleaning or repairs you will have a loose spring you have to mind.
Would a blowtorch work? I dont have a fancy blower like you have, all i have is a hairdryer and it doesn't get hot enough even after long durations of constant contact. What i do have is a blowtorch
Apologies for the delay. Could the blowtorch work? Your guess is as good as mine. I'm just afraid of melting something. But I suppose it can. You can get a heat gun from amazon for about $20 (or harbor freight for the same or cheaper). If you don't have one or can't get access to one, maybe try the blow torch? Just use extreme caution. If there was a way to have something between the blowtorch and the firearm to enable heat exchange, but not at such a rapid change/directly that could be interesting. I'm just brainstorming. If you have this firearm, you know how expensive it is. I just wouldn't want you to ruin it. But again, maybe a blow torch NOT having the flame directly touch the firearm could perhaps work.
@ELITEkickBOXER I was able to find a heat gun for around 20 bucks, thought they would be more expensive so I just didn't bother to look. Haven't been able to twist the damn thing off but gonna try again in a few days time. Thanks!
I can tell you for a fact that 500F is indeed too much and can potentially damage a cerakote finish on the firearm. If you have a digital thermometer, I would heat it to about 290, then get some work gloves and try your best to separate the parts. Be careful to avoid touching where it is hot (which if done correctly, shouldn't be that much of the surface area). If you don't have a digital thermometer (which is perfectly okay), I would heat it for about 2 minutes, then try to separate the pieces. It most likely will need more time than that, especially if it's difficult to heat it uniformly as I did in the video and how much heat your gun outputs (I had mine on max power I believe). Thus, I would heat it at 60-second intervals and try to remove it after each interval. This will work eventually. If you have A LOT of time on your hands, you can do 30-second intervals too. But just be aware every time you cease heating, it starts to cool down a little. It may seem hard to do, but I assure you from personal experience, if done correctly it's quite simple and shouldn't take long. Before you know it, you'll have one fine piece of machinery in front of you. I hope this helps even just a little. Any other questions, please feel free to ask.
Check out freedom fighters tutorial he has a few tricks that he did not use that can help out! I’m actually waiting for my new M4Le to get to my FFL with a 3 position collapsible stock and titanium 7 round tube in the H2O. Oh freedom fighter also said that all M4s are different and some have more loctite them other M4s not all are the same so you need to just do what he he already wrote and take your time and it will come off just don’t bake that factory cerakote or you’ll be sending it that reciever to get redone! 🤟🏽
These receivers are anodized which is a finish applied to aluminum and it becomes part of the metal not just a surface finish like cerakote. Heating it up should not ruin the finish but may discolor it.
OmgItsTheBlindBandit OmgItsTheBlindBandit I recommend going about this as close to what I did as possible. That being said, you should remove the barrel before you do this as it makes it much easier for you. But, as long as you only apply the heat to that one area (i.e. keep the heat stream concentrated), then the heat doesn't really go far from where you aim it; in other words the only truly HOT spot is where the heat is directly concentrated at, the other places are just warm. So you don't have to remove the internals (for example the bolt release parts), but definitely remove the tube spring and anything else in the tube. I hope that answers your question. If not, let me know.
Probably too late, but for anyone else definitely remove the internals. I melted the front part of my trigger housing, now my bolt is binding up on it so I'm out 200 ish bucks.
Update lol, I was able to fix it by filing down the warped peices of plastic. The plastic was impeding the shell carrier from moving, which kept the bolt from cycling forward.
I added a FFT 7 round tube to my Tac-12 and I'm pretty sure it's seated all the way on but there's a slight gap where sometimes the shell gets caught on. The shell gets stuck in the mag tube and if you barely wiggle the shell and then it's back to normal. Not sure what to do. It was an extremely tight fit, idk if I can get the tube off now. Should I take it to a gunsmith or maybe try something else?
So I'm not a professional, I'm merely a fellow youtuber who modified their Benelli. Having said that, the smartest thing would be to bring it to a gunsmith. Now having said THAT, I personally would only bring it to a gunsmith if I truly needed a professional's help. I don't like to pay someone else to do something if I can (attempt to) do it myself--maybe it sounds cheap. But no one will take more care of your possession then you. If you can find out exactly what is causing the problem that might be best in order to find out your next step. Where is the gap? Is the gap a result of your doing or a defect in the tube? Could you take it off (if you didn't permanently put it on)? Again, a professional will have to most likely do what you would do...but yeah. Sorry I couldn't be more help.
@@ELITEkickBOXER No problem, I really appreciate your take. If you remove the trigger guard and look in the receiver with a flashlight the gap is inside the where the FFT mag tube makes contact with part of the receiver. The follow doesn't catch on it, only the shot shell because the gap is about the size of a shell rim. The mag tube was an extremely tight fit just to get on. I heated and turned and repeated over and over until I physically couldn't turn it anymore. It was such an insanely tight fit, I'm not only afraid I might've damaged some threads but I also might not be able to get it off now lol. FFT is specially for Benelli so idk if it just won't go all the way on for the Tac-12 or what. I'll use my heat gun and get the threads hotter than Satan's asshole and try to thread it on one last time before giving up and taking it to a gunsmith.
@@jkees6751 I'll be honest, that doesn't really sound too good. Although I can't physically see it and maybe it's an easy fix. Typically when it comes to threading things on, it's smooth as the thread pitch and length are equal. If you used a Benelli mag tube that wasn't designed for the firearm you added it onto, it is very possible (not guaranteed of course) that you may have cross-threaded it. If that's the case (sorry to give you anxiety lol) it's gonna be a not-so-fun repair. If it's just a tight fit which it could be for sure, either take it off and put it back on or get a different one/one made for your firearm. Also, you shouldn't have to use heat/300-pound gorilla to put it on. to get it off, yeah, heat and torque are your friend. if you can get it off, don't put it on until it's cooled.
@@ELITEkickBOXER Gotcha. Pretty sure it was just a tight fit but I'm thinking there's a 5-10% chance it might be crossthreaded. If it is I'll defintely let you know.
To put it simply: Installing an extension (compared to the full-length tube) is quicker and easier and cheaper. Installing the full-length tube is more expensive (but by how much depends on the supplies used) and more of a hassle. Now it does take more time and effort but is REALLY easy to do. That's also why I made this two-part tutorial in seriousness. It really isn't hard to do at all, as I did it for the first time in this video. The reason I did the full-length tube is that it looks the best to me; it looks sleek. I personally, in my opinion, think the full-length tube is more robust and will last longer than that extension (depending on the type of each you get). Again, I bought the official full-length tube made of the same material and everything as the factory-installed tube instead of some third-parties tube. It honestly comes down to personal preference. Honestly, a Benelli M4 is basically the best of the best when it comes to shotguns (albeit there will always be exceptions)...and, it cost around $2000. The heat gun I got was $30 and now I have it forever: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0744BHQ5L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Hope that helps. If you have more questions, please let me know.
Thanks a lot, the advice is greatly appreciated. I’ll go with the full length tube for sure. You’re right, it seems fairly easy to install, and having done some installing myself in the past (including two Geissele triggers in my AR’s) this should be pretty quick.
There is a benefit if you're trying to stay 922R compliant. I've read on different forums that if you install a US made magazine extension onto an Italian made 5 round mag tube it still counts as an Italian part. Installing a US made 7 round mag tube counts as 1 part from the list of 922R compliance. You have to switch 3 Italian parts for the 7 round mag tube swap, and then 4 Italian parts if you also do the collapsible stock. There are people out there who don't worry about it, and there are people who worry about the federal weapons charges. I did it with my wife's hair dryer in about 3 minutes in a vice wrapped in a bath towel. It's just expensive to stay compliant.
922r considerations. Full length tube count as 1 USA part. Need 2 more USA parts installed for compliance. With tube extension, 3 more USA parts required to be installed as the extension tube does not count towards 922r compliance
Bolt release: www.gggaz.com/benelli-m4-tactical-bolt-release-pad.html Full Length Magazine Tube (OEM tube): www.benelliparts.net/store/p2/Benelli_M4_7_Round_Magazine_Tube_70052_ETA_1-WEEK.html Personally, I love the full-length tube. Never had any issues. It looks better than the +2 extension and is the original tube so it looks/fits perfectly. Obviously, it's more expensive and takes a bit more time to install (but as you can see from my tutorial, really isn't a big deal). It's a $2k firearm, haha what's another $170! Okay, but seriously, it comes down to personal preference and budget. Just don't get the +2 extension then upgrade to the full-length tube in the future as that would be a waste. If you get the full length, you will not recommend it. However, it's up to you.
I'm no expert. Yet in my opinion, I would say practically speaking, there really is no difference (if a quality part is used). It's more of an aesthetic/go the extra step type of situation.
See 922R. Modifying imported weapons is controlled and you need to replace 3 items (4 if you do a collapsing stock). The follower and the magazine tube are two acceptable replacements.
@@bitshuffler1 All true. I have another video showing how I make this 922r compliant after the upgrades I did in this video. However technically illegal it may be, it's not like (in reality) someone is going to disassemble the firearm and count the pieces to see if it's compliant. But if you know about 922r then it's probably gonna bug you to make it "legal." Of course, everyone's opinions on this may vary.
The following is my personal opinion, and just that: It's been a while since i made this video, BUT if I remember correctly, I read somewhere that for whatever reason I came to the conclusion that you do NOT lube the magazine spring. Now before I made this video, I did a lot of research as to what was needed to be done and why I did/ didn't do certain things. I'm sure some people will say that lubing the spring is good and works, and I couldn't tell them they're wrong, well because I wouldn't know. But, I do believe that I read somewhere that if you lube the spring it will eventually collect dirt and grime and build up within the tube and disable it from moving the full distance of the tube. I do have to say that I've never had a problem with the gun or the spring/ magazine tube, and so not lubing it is a viable option, and something I recommend. Also, I'm sure at least one person will say something along the lines of "as long as you clean the spring every so often, the lube doesn't hinder anything". On that note, I can't say otherwise. It boils down to personal preference. Hope this helps. If you have any more questions, please don't hesitate to ask?
@@ELITEkickBOXER that all makes sense. I ca. See dirt eventually building up. I'll see how it goes without it. Thank you for the thorough and quick reply! I greatly appreciate it
@@athor6730 Is this the part you're referring to: www.google.com/search?q=forend+slide+support+benelli+m3&newwindow=1&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS903US903&sxsrf=ALeKk01wafceNIP8M88TaufvEinJ2Qid2A:1623001052757&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=B61DoLjXou1fNM%252CFvTkj_5IBgYLNM%252C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kRL6ECI1p79Yfx5WzfRqKl3zjmyVQ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjXseCJxoPxAhUCTt8KHf3_ASkQ9QF6BAgNEAE&cshid=1623001228140145#imgrc=B61DoLjXou1fNM
@@athor6730 Okay, yeah I'm trying to figure out what is keeping that from coming out. This video of mine is for the M4; the M3 is slightly different (unfortunately for this plastic piece that's giving you trouble). It's also difficult not having it in front of me to see what's going on. I'm not sure if this other RU-vid video would help: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-H-qjR-UA22s.html If you'd like, you can create like a 30-second video or something on RU-vid showing what the problem is and sending me the link so I can better see it. I don't know how you'd feel about it.
I got the full-length tube from: www.benelliparts.net I got the oversized safety button from: www.brownells.com I got the tactical bolt release pad, tactical charging handle, and follower from: www.gggaz.com
The heat is a continuous process as well as one where the heat dissipated relatively quickly if you take intermittent breaks or something like that. This may not be that helpful, and I apologize for that. However, I do suggest a few different things you can try (given what you just told me): keep going with the heat, put the heat gun on a higher mode if possible, make sure the heat is being directed to the rotation point and not simply just around the entire gun, put gloves on (or have someone else help) that gives you a better grip. Don't give up though, you can always try it again another time if you want to do it tomorrow or something like that. It will come off, it's possible a bit more "glue" may have been used on your firearm and so may require a bit more heat/higher temperature. Also, you make sure the heat (if you can) is being directed around the entire barrel circumference (not length) and not just one specific spot if you're still having trouble.
@@mashameri7019 Lucky. I remember when I first got mine. One of my happiest moments haha relatively speaking. Anyways, I know the feeling. I felt that a few times too when I was doing mine. Honestly, just some more time heating it up will work.
@@mashameri7019 I just did this upgrade to a new and unused M4, and I had to heat it to just over 300, and it was still a PIA to turn, but it did slowly turn with a tremendous hand grip. My hands and forearms hurt for 24 hours, but I got it done. Best of luck.
I would think it's the same loctite as it's an M4 made by Benelli. The only thing I could think of is that maybe the heat isn't really heating up the part you want. In other words, the heat you're applying is either too far away from the gun and so the gun isn't getting warm because the heat largely dissipates in the air; or, where you're applying the heat isn't necessarily in the correct location resulting in the loctite not being heated to a high enough temperature. I could be wrong, but spending an hour heating it should be way plenty. Besides, it only needs to reach a certain temperature (well, the area with the loctite only needs to be a certain temperature). However, I don't remember the temperature off hand, but I believe I said it in the video. Also, make sure that gun is secured in something strong while you use gripping work gloves to rotate the tube...it makes a difference.
I believe it was a mix of these three websites: www.benelliparts.net/store/c2/Benelli_M4_Parts_And_Accessories.html www.brownells.com/parts/Benelli/M4/index.htm www.gggaz.com/benelli-shotgun-accessories.html
