@@UnconventionalThinker you could off done 12x12 correct!? I’m thinking of buying the brackets too. Nice video its helpful for sure. Also you chose pine over pressure treated cedar! Any thoughts on post!?
@@hugocervantes26 yes, for me the shade is what restricted the dimensions. If you just get brackets however long you can find the lumber is what would set your dimensions. At Lowe's the largest pressure treated pine I could find was 12'. I liked the price of pressure treated pine over cedar. It's not shown in the video but I ended up staining the pressure treated pine to look like cedar
Poor video and explanation. You didn't need to remove the whole door to replace the handle. You already have access to the top screw, was it the lower handle screw you couldn't access? We can't tell because your shaking the camera all over the place.
That's the beauty of RU-vid if you have a better way of doing it, film it and show it. Just don't ignore the many people this video has helped. May not have worked for you, but thousands has this video helped. So does the problem lie with the video or the one disgruntled viewer?
I work PT at an electronics store and get a great discount. I"m going to buy a new microwave. I'll spend the 100 and install a new microwave faster than it'll take to replace that handle.
@@UnconventionalThinker yes sir they do. The door won’t close fully because of it. I have to hold it in place otherwise the circuit will trip. I checked the switches. They are working
Unfortunately maintenance at my apartment complex is garbage. My girlfriend and I have been threatened by the lead tech , who still has his job, twice. So, I handle most repairs in our home. I have the same model. Pushing the black tab to clear the white hinge did not help. The top pin is not clearing the hole in the hinge either. Any suggestions, anyone.
We’ve been here for 2 years. I’ve changed air filters, refrigerators filters, repaired leaky ac, replaced broken sink strainer, unclogged shower drain and dishwasher.
The handle of my GE freezer on the bottom refrigerator came off in my hand the other day. I am assuming that if I order one for this model I will be able to install it myself? I would put it in on the left and slide it towards the right?
Yes, you will be able to install yourself. Do you know if the plastic on the handle broke or did the white clips break? If it's GE I think they would all slide the same way. But the clips on the door will signify how they slide into the slots on the handle.
Exact same problem with my mother in laws car! Car acting out.. replaced the started yesterday and was about to replace the fuel pump 🤦🏽 her Corolla is bugging not wanting to start at times Thank you for this !!
Thanks! I was afraid I'd have to take the entire door apart. The bottom scree holding the clip was loosening, and all I could see were the screw threads. But your instructions completely relieved my fears!
Hey babes, thank you for this. There are so many other guides out there showing the bottom freezer drawer but not this handle. I thought that it just slid up but could not get it to do it for the life of me. Holding it and using a couple taps from a rubber mallet is all you need. I may have broken it without this!
When my friend called me about his corolla today I went straight to the dealer and bought the little bushing listed in the description. I made it there 5 minutes before they closed, bought the bushing for 4.70 and you were right about what I needed! Saved me a ton of time going all the way across town twice. Thanks!
Thank you! Looking at buying one of these and was wanting a good video with how many pieces can be taken apart to clean thoroughly! That was a problem with our last one.
Hey Dude, first good video, hope your freezer is still doing well. My freezer was also 3 yrs old when it took a dump. After doing enough research I replaced the temp control part. The green light comes on in the front, but no buzzing. So do you think it might be the other two parts just wondering. Plus you paid $15 for your temp control, I paid $90, #$&&@%! Thats me swearing!
Yeah I would do a resistance check on all those parts to find which part doesn't have continuity. Sorry to hear about the $90 part, I had to wait a bit to get it for $15 as Danby had them on backorder from China
So I bought this pull-up bar and plan on installing it this weekend. I plan on using 2x6 boards like you did but horizontally. Question for you that I have to ask......Why wouldn't you use lag screws for the 2x6's for the extra support? It look's like you just used wood screws? Can you clarify why you chose that route VS. additional lag screws into the 2x6's? Thank you.
You could do that too. I did use lag screws after I used the decking screws to mount the 2x6s to the wall studs mainly to just hold it to the wall so I could put the lag screws in by hand; I wanted to torque them in by hand to ensure I wasn't shooting out the side of the stud. The lag screws were the main fasteners that transfer the load to the studs. The decking screws see a little bit of load, but the lag screws will see a majority of the load likely since they are much stiffer. All the decking screws could have failed in my setup and the whole assembly would have still been held to the wall by the lag screws.
