Replacing a Deep Freezer Thermostat 

I have 3 wires coming from my thermostat. How can I tell which two are the power wires?

@@waynebuchholz5789 two wires should be lined up right next to each other. Should be those two and the other is ground. Wire colors are likely red and black, with ground as green, which you can leave where it is.

​@@ColeSloththank you, that is exactly what it looks like.

💯👌Genius idea. Thanks

Genius, that was exactly how I diagnosed mine. Thank you

Awesome! Love to hear that it helped.

Ballin'! Love to hear comments like this.

Yeah I didn't think I'd use a volt meter much, but it's surprised me how much I've used it for all sorts of projects. But if your thermostat is is still in there you shouldn't have a problem, but I would move the old one back and forth just to open the path up a little, once you get the new one in.

Sure thing, were you able to find a replacement?

Yessir, glad it helped!

Yes, it sounds like a faulty thermostat. I think they had issues with the thermostats that were originally on these freezers because recently the ones you get off the danby website are different from what the originals were.

That I'm not sure of, if you were going to use a grease it would probably have to be dielectric so that it conducts properly. Are you struggling to get the wire in?

Do all your electrical lines look okay? I.e is power getting to your compressor?

Yes, everything else appears normal.

I ended up using the old relay and starter because they were still good, but found those on Amazon. I believe they were universal parts based on the part number found on those parts. The thermostat I had to order from Danby for this specific model the thermostat was really cheap $14 plus shipping.

You can also do an ohm check. I pulled the other parts off the front of the compressor. My compressor had three prongs on the front and that's what the OLP and starer connect to. But I would check those and your compressor to make sure there is no break in your circuit.

I got mine from Danby. The one on this one got replaced by a different part number. When I ordered it I had to wait a couple months until they got a new shipment from China

Do you have the new thermostat? So the long probe end of the thermostat is stuck? If that's the case and you can't pull it out, you might be able to cut it off and then try to run your new line beside it.

Its the old one I couldn't pull out the wire sensor. Its not even moving. Seems I may need to pull at an angle instead of from the front.

@@dav200 yes, at least on mine it came in at an angle.

@@UnconventionalThinker David Chan David Chan 2 days ago Hi , I do have the same problem of the thermostat which need to be replaced. What i face is the difficulty of pulling out the sensor feed. seems to be impossible. Any help? Thanks.

It's mounted on the front of the compressor. It connects to the 3 prongs on the compressor. It's shown in the video when I'm reassembling it.

www.danbyapplianceparts.com/product/dcfm-tstat-wpf29r-103-022/

Looks like it's currently on backorder. I emailed Danby back in the day to see if they had better fidelity as to when the part would be available after I ordered it on backorder and they were pretty good at their estimate

Not sure I follow

I have heard these stay on 80-90% of the time. We keep ours in the garage so it's not exposed to inside cooling. I have noticed with ours that it mostly stays on, but I have noticed it does shut off from time to time. But you definitely could have a damaged thermostat if you've noticed it doesn't shut off it's the only instrument on these freezers that monitors the temp. Just make sure when you insert the wire probe back in through the insulation that it gets close to surface walls of the freezer and breaks through the insulation so that it can get an accurate internal temp.

Hi again, I am attempting to replace the thermostat today. We should know in a few hours if we are successful. My Sears/Kenmore must have a metal tube inside to feed the thermostat wire, as it went back in pretty easily. We pushed it in as far as the red line on the metal wire. Thanks for having this video. I'll update late if we have success.

So I made the assumption that the thermostat wire needed to be pushed all the way into the foam until it got to those red and blue pieces of tape on the wire. I think my red and blue pieces of tape or spaced about an inch apart not sure if yours has a blue piece on it as well. But you want to make sure that wire is going through the insulation to where the inner wall of the freezer is so that it can get an accurate reading of the internal temperature. If it doesn't get an accurate reading it will continuously be running maybe longer than it should. But also make sure to not to use your new thermostat wire to push through the hole or create a new hole in the installation or you could end up breaking it. I ended up using my old thermostat wire to essentially push through A New path so that I wasn't putting too much on to that wire to where it was bending and potentially breaking. Let me know if you have any other questions

@@UnconventionalThinker Where my thermostat feeds into the freezer cavity, there was a rubber stopper so as to hold it in the cavity.We slid that down the old thermostat wire. There was then a metal tube sticking out about maybe 1/2". We then pulled out the old thermostat with pliers. We then inserted the new thermostat into that metal tube and it went in very smoothly. I think on my brand/model there might be a metal tube to help with feeding the thermostat in. I am thinking the tube ends somewhere in the freezer along that inner wall so as to monitor temperature. When we inserted the new thermostat, we did it to the red line, just as when we removed the old. My thermostat does not have a blue mark only the red. Hope that makes sense

I think we have SUCCESS! I had the control set at "Mid" for a few hours and not shutting off. I think my thermometer was reading about minus 25-30. I turned the control down to "Min" and it shut off. I babysat by the freezer and it came on about 15 minutes later (2:44pm), it then went off at 3:20, it came on again at 3:36. If it goes off again sometime after 4pm, I think I will feel it is a complete success.

Yeah the hardest part for me was pushing the probe to the area it needed to be

The Thermostat Makes and Breaks contact continuously during operation depending on the set temperatures, so it could just not have continuity but it is still OK

It could possibly be the compressor but if you have to replace that you might as well buy a new freezer. Is the freezer not freezing at all?

@@UnconventionalThinker It turns on for about 15 seconds. Then it's dead. The freezer is a Black and Decker I bought from Walmart. Not even 10 years old.

@@123nlc yeah so if it were me I'd figure out what I'm willing to spend to try to fix it on my own even if it doesn't work and start from there. Which for me was trying to replace all the other components that weren't the compressor. For me I think I spent a total of $30 trying to replace the overload protector, the relay, and the thermostat. For me it was worth trying to spend $30 to fix it versus having to go by another $200 freezer.

@@UnconventionalThinker Thanks for your help.

@@UnconventionalThinker you probably have a bad 4.7 compressor relay

Not sure, the thermostat part number for mine was WPF29R-103-022

@@UnconventionalThinker where you get yours?

@@UnconventionalThinker where you got yours?

Link in the description of the video takes you to Danby Parts website

Bought it from Danby, the maker of this freezer.

@@UnconventionalThinker tank u sir

What a brilliant idea, imprecise, but it would surely suffice I think

Yeah I would do a resistance check on all those parts to find which part doesn't have continuity. Sorry to hear about the $90 part, I had to wait a bit to get it for $15 as Danby had them on backorder from China

Thanks for response, very cool!