Is there a way to do it with a phone or tablet? Samsung tablet. I have a card reader for my phone but Google after download says acces denied when I try to copy it to the SD card
Hello, Im an entire beginner, when i install the ML it doesnt change anything so i decided to uninstall it again, but my camera now doesnt open its LCD and just keeps blinking yellow. Is there nything i can do with it?
Just purchased my eos m2 and whenever I capture images they turn out a lot brighter in the playback than what I saw on the LiveView LCD when I was capturing them and I don't see anyway to control canon's "exposure simulation" on this camera.... I have found some work-arounds but i'm curious to know if you have faced the same issues with photos on this camera
fyi a 200 mb/s memory card eliminates short shhooting times and dropped frames...5k raw as well as all the other modes work just fine if your card is fast enough
For those who want to de-squeeze at the clip level outside the timeline can do it via the clip attributes. Under Video > Pixel Aspect ratio, select "Custom" and type in 3.
Thank you 🙏 What’s the difference between the 60 and 120, as in why would you use one over the other? I also heard something about not being able to play the recording back in 60 unless you switch something else on the camera, is this true or false? Many thanks!
You'll get better results if you set the Camera raw settings to Linear & P3 and change the color space and gamma in the first CST. Also set Tone mapping to none in the first cst, oh and dont forget highlight recovery :)
Thanks for that suggestion man! I haven't tried working with linear and P3, but I hear that's a popular workflow for EOS M footage, so I'll definitely need to check that out!
There is one suboptimal and one real flawed suggestion in the workflow proposed here: [1] suboptimal: the suggestion to export uncompressed DNG from MLV App. Better choose "lossless DNG" because, as the name says, it compresses without any data loss/loss of image quality (just like a zip or PNG file), with the added benefit of using about half the storage space and disk speed, and thus playing back faster in Resolve. It's the same difference as saving an uncompressed TIFF vs. an LZW-compressed TIFF. [2] mistake: The suggestion to interpret the important DNG in Resolve as Rec709/sRGB and then do a color transform to a larger color space and wider gamma. This doesn't work - because you can't transform a smaller gamut into a larger gamut, just as you can't meaningfully upsample 16bit audio to 24bit. Instead, you need to interpret raw, in Resolve's Raw tab or the project settings for Raw/CinemaDNG, in the wider gamma and gamut, for example Blackmagic Design Film, and do your Color Space Transform from there [at the very end of your node tree] to Rec709 or sRGB.
Thanks so much for your comment on this. I'm always looking at how to improve my color workflow. I haven't done a ton of extensive testing between exporting lossless and uncompressed DNG out of MLV app, but I'll give lossless a try the next time I'm working with MLV files. When you say interpret RAW, using resolve's RAW tab, are you referencing what I'm doing at 4:41? Or am I missing a step somewhere? Also, a step I missed showing in this video is that in my project settings I have my timeline color space set to davinci wide gamut so that after my first CST I'm in the correct color space to work in. This is a workflow that I've seen many other colorists and magic lantern users employ. Again, thanks for the feedback. I'm always looking to improve and grow in all my filmmaking skills.
Thanks so much Sergio!! You're videos have been super helpful and inspiring for me in my filmmaking journey! Thanks for all your contributions to the Magic Lantern community!
Magic Lantern is one of my To Do Projects. I remember getting a Canon 5D mk ii which at the time was a pretty advanced camera that was recommended by the ML community. Not sure if things have been updated, but if a Canon EOS M is too limiting check out the 5D.
Would have been great if they made it for EOS-M to EOS-M for the native lenses you invested. If you have good EOS-M lenses like the SIgma ART - you will need to use traditional ND Filters
Just bought an EOS M with a f2 22mm and looking forward to using it for all the reasons you described. Nice and small but can get some great quality images like a bigger camera. Oh yeah and cheap too haha
@@dulanhewage3153 my solution is to download CLOG 3 file. If you search RU-vid videos on how to do that they include links to where you can purchase it. I believe it’s $30 US
Hello! Thank you for your lesson videos on RU-vid about Eos m! I have 1 question. Do you know how to fix little problem: when I record raw videos with dual iso - I have a flickering… I don’t know how to fix it… can you help me? Flickering in shadows
Not even sure why people hate this lens. I've used it for photos and movies. It's my preferred lens for day time shooting and it's got stabe which none of my other lenses has. And while it's not Panasonic level, it's helpful. I used it with my Panasonic G7, and my Sony when I had one and will use it with my BMPCC OG and GH5. It's the only lens I've had from the beginning and still have. I have adapters for Sony E-Mount and MFT cameras. That being said, I do mainly shoot in the evenings, but if push comes to shove the lens goes down to f2.8 with my speedbooster, which is good enough to shoot in Downtown wide open and the image is fine.
Thank you for the film, interesting information... for everyone. I recently made a short video about my first hive inspection after a harsh winter. Most of the shots were taken with Canon EOS-M Crop Mood 5.2K, 12-bit, EF-S 18-135mm. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9KqsKjLaDak.html
