Home DIY and Renovation channel. How to guides for all your household DIY projects. From removing lead pipes and walls, to decorating and furnishing. We sold our home in Surrey, and moved to Fleetwood in Lancashire into a house that hadn't been touched for 30+ years. Rotten windows and lead pipe galore, this is going to be a big project. Stay tuned to see what happens and how to save money Doing It Yourself!
This is a great vid. I actually need to do this and it is very helpful. Thanks for taking the time to document your excellent work and posting it for others to see and learn from 👍
If you're wondering why your heating isn't working.... 24:15 I think you've put the jumper across the Live and Neutral. Should go between L and CH COM.
@@LCWDIY After installing the jumper, you tighten up the MAIN Live and then you tighten up the MAIN Neutral... watch your screwdriver from 24:15. If you've left it this way, I'd suggest to open the cover and check. Just trying to help!
@marcot8549 yeah thanks for spotting it, I think it is just the camera angle. I noticed it while editing but this video is over 3 years old now and the system has worked flawlessly since the day it was installed. Thanks for pointing it out though 👍
Great installation video. I'm confused though about the comment re. hot water temp control at 2:30. My combi boiler can control the hot water temperature via the existing control panel that is on the boiler. I understand it heats the water on-demand but can it not control the temperature of this water? The Tado should be able to do this as well.
I've just had mine passed. Inspector didn't use a depth stick, I guess he was old and experienced enough to eye ball the trench and see it met minimum requirements with the grit sand bed. He did however check and take pics of the soil pipe entering the house was lagged and the correct blanking cap used, there was a mechanical stop end installed, sufficient pipe was left under the boundary wall and that a stopcock and drain off was installed in the house. Took no more than 5 mins and he said I can backfill the trench but advised leave some room for the installers should they need to push the pipe from the boundary wall. Now I have to wait upto 16 wait weeks for them to connect. How long did it take for them to connect it for you @lcw diy ? As for quotes, the cheapest I had from an approved WIAPS watersafe installer was £940 inc VAT for moling which isn't a bad price tbh. Others were around 1000-1200. Even if you factor in the cost of the tools: Trench spade, mattock, sds drill, core 117mm core drill, 8X4 metre tarps (because of Manchester rain) and materials for the job 25kg grit sand bags, concrete, 25mm 25metre mdpe pipe, 2X 110mm End cap reducers, 25mm clips, twinwall or soil pipe with a 90 degree elbow, 25mm pipe inserts, stopcock, waterproof gaffer tape, drain valve, lagging it will come in less than the £550 grant you receive, leaving you quids in and even more if you already have the tools. P.S I recommend people attempting this use a good heavy 5lb + mattack and the correct shape spade for digging as compacted soil and clay is easier to slice through and dig out. Also be careful around other utilities (gas, electric and waste) you can always find out from your council house plans where these services are laid and they will beburried higher than your current lead pipe so you will encounter them first if it's within your new pipe's path. Also mix up and throw some cement around the where the soil pipe enters the house from the outside and inside, this will stop any water ingress from entering your house as the 117mm core hole will leave a small gap around your 110mm soil pipe or Twinwall duct. See pics: imgur.com/a/2g20KLy
That's great news and thanks for all the extra info on prices and tips etc. it will help other people greatly. I think it took UU a couple of weeks to come and connect mine to the mains.
@@LCWDIY I received a text from UU with a link that redirects me to their VYNN system. I had to take a short video so the construction team can visit my site to complete their work, they needed to see if it was clear and ready for our connection works, no scafolding or skips blocking the connection area.
This is honestly one of the better DIY lead replacement videos, and I have seen a lot. Regulations followed and no shortcuts or compromises made. I also have a United Utilities supplied waste and water services.
Very helpful video. Is there a reason you used straight reducer 22 to 15mm just before 15mm tee estate of using 22x15x15mm tee reducer, that's on 16:31 min
united utilities have a grant for replacing lead pipes, they will pay up to £550 of the cost it takes you to replace the lead pipe with your boundaries.
Any water base paint will activate the surface and bubble.if you plaster over old wallpapered surfaces they will bubble because there is still a residue that you won’t be able to get rid of . You need to seal with pigmented surfaces with is oil based.
Hello Lee, my lead pipe seems to be leaking in my front garden [ hopefully ] water company inspector came round and agreed to replace old lead pipe from pavement main cock to about 2 meter in front of my front door, Could you please advice me why you did not use 32mm MDPE Pipe? I need to decide to choose should I use 25mm or 32MM. Thanks. P. J. April 2024
Under the lead replacement scheme (depending on your utility provider) they will only replace like for like. So in United Utilities case it's replacing 7lb 1" lead pipes to 25mm MDPE. In the information packs United Utility send it states this. Also when I gave them a call enquiring if I could run 32mm to a 25mm pipe at the boundary end using a reducer valve they said it's not allowed and only 32mm would be considered if you have a large domicile with 5-6 bathrooms. However, If you are doing a new connection (not the lead replacement grant), I see no reason why you can't use 32mm with a 25mm reducer at the boundary so they can connect it to the common or shared water supply. 32mm MDPE is a monster size and the cost will increase when you factor in different lagging sizes, pipe liners, clips, reducer valves, 32mm Philmac (or whatever brand you prefer) stopcock to whatever size pipes are in the house conversion attachments, but if that isn't an issue and you have the space to accomodate the internal fittings then you will definitely notice a difference in flow rate and future proof yourself. HTH
Hi, Great video, really useful info’ for us house renovators. Can I ask what elbow you used in the 110mm ‘drain’ pipe through the wall/foundations, was it just a standard 90 degree? The reason I ask is I thought the blue water pipe was quite stiff and had a minimum bend radii that would prevent going through a tight bend?. TIA
Hi, yes it was a standard 90 degree bend. It was a bit stiff to push though but went in ok. I pushed it through the bend without the upstand pipe on, which made it easier, then added the upstand pipe under the floor afterwards. I hope this helps.
You could use a Blue 4" Naylor Perforated Twinwall Utility Ducting pipe. They come in 6 metre or 50 metre coils. iirc the inner diameter is 94mm but they accomodate the same 110mm rubber waste reducing end caps used in this video.
I installed tado followed every step all the wiring it's right but heter not turn on if I us my old thermostat it's working. It still my old thermostat it connected it's wireless any idea how to deactivate old thurmo start
Thanks for this, I just bought a cordless one to tackle overgrown ivy in garden and couldn't work out how to insert blades (69 year old female) £28 ebay.
If it's the same as mine you just turn the knob where the blade goes in. It's spring loaded so will spring back and lock the blade in when you've inserted it.
Thank you very much for this useful video; today I just installed same smart thermostat luckily I do have same combi boiler as you here in the presentation, job done in about 1.5 hrs hassle free! again, many thanks! 🍻🍻🍻
As all others have said you did an excellent job well done . I’m an old retired plumber and should have done my own years back at 78 don’t fancy the graft .
I allready have a wired ut2 programmer and a wired thermostat Could I just remove these unsightly items and wire direct to the boiler like the video and use the wireless setup
