Well, she's no JustinHiFi, but this method of pulling the spring tail forward, vs. pushing it to the side actually worked better for me than Justin's way. That little "click" sound is quite satisfying when you finally get it.
Are you still working on the Saab? I have an 07 9-3 that won't start at all. Turns over, tries to fire off an barely run with the starter turning, but then won't catch. A non-Saab mechanic said the codes showed fault with injectors, but they appear to be fine. Internet said most often the car computer. Ouch. There is a guy on ebay who rebuilds them and reprograms to fit your car. We are going to try that. Wish me luck. Hope to see more videos from you! Thank you for posting.
Have you resolved the final issue making your car not start? I know this video is old, but every bit of knowledge helps those of us who still cling on to their Saabs! I personally own 4, 3 of which are 2002-2004, so information about this style of engine is always helpful to me and potentially others.
Jesse Crandle I have not resolved the no start issue. I just have to crank it longer than usual and it starts for me. It won't be long before it stops working for me though. Good luck! I do love my Saab.
Your problem sounds a LOT like a check valve problem which is a small plastic part attached to your fuel pump. What this does is only allows gas to flow one way, so once gas is pressurized between between the fuel pump and the engine it maintains the pressure in that line so it can start quickly in the future. When the valves go bad (which is fairly common) then you need to crank for a long time to build up pressure. One possible way to test a partially failed fuel pressure check valve is to turn the key to accessory and then fully off multiple times, if the check valve works at all this will let the pressure build up. If the valve has totally failed the only way to prove it's the failed check valve would be to remove the fuel pump relay and jump it so it was set to run continually, then when you cranked it starting immediately would verify that it's the check valve. Long cranks are bad for the battery and starter, but dropping the fuel tank and replacing the $300-$500 fuel pump will cost $1,000 to $1,500 depending on the mechanic you go to. Also that plastic cover behind the engine you removed, down in there is a fuel rail with a small plastic cap screwed on. You can check if your fuel rail has pressure by turning the key to accessory then off two or three times (primes the pump for 3 seconds each time you turn the key), you can hear it making a sound as it's below the rear seats usually. The valve on the fuel rail is a schrader valve just like on a tire, using something small to press the inside of the valve will let the pressure come out through the valve, but it will also spray fuel out like a squirt gun and get allover you and the engine if you dont surround it with a towel. If only a drop or two were to come out then the check valves are not holding pressure, if an ounce or two of fuel spurts out it is likely fine, or at least good enough to build pressure by turning the key to accessory a few times so you don't wear your starter as badly.
Jesse Crandle thank you! I have a new fuel pump as well. That's my next video. Maybe these tips will help me identify a problem on my own. Mechanics aren't always affordable, which is why I do so much of this on my own. Thank you.
If you bought the fuel pump as an entire assembly then it will have new check valves already in it. I will say one thing though, you should really put a "TI Automotive" brand fuel pump assembly in the car as apposed to an aftermarket one. The OEM company, Walbro, changed their name to TI Automotive. Typically this pump assembly is $270 or so. A cheaper pump for say $120 or $150 will last a year to 3 years.... it's a lot of work for something to fail so fast, I really highly recommend you put in the TI Automotive (formerly Walbro) pump.
Hi, I had the same issue and it turned out to be a hose to the Brake Booster Vacuum Hose (the valve area was cracked on this hose). I did do the same thing as you and clean my throttle body as well prior but the issue kept coming back until I was stranded at one point. It also generated a P1260 code for me (similar to the P1230 code you had in an earlier video.
Thanks for the advice!! I am starting to suspect a vacuum leak somewhere but I can't find it with a spray of carburetor cleaner while running. My next video might be a fuel pump change just in case.
Hi. I am Thomas from Netherlands. Have maintenance videos seen and think you very skillfully explains Is nice to see that beautiful women also like it to keep them well in car I have a Saab 9-3 with a 2.0 liter Turbo (LPT) Do you happen to know whether it throttles the same house? Just recently made saab and bought as many components, filters, hoses, spark plugs, fuel filter, etc and would like to also clean the butterfly house. Super nice your videos and lots of enjoyment with your Saab 95 Greetings Thomas, from holland
Hi Thomas. Hope you enjoy your 9-3! I am not familiar with the 9-3 but you could search for an image of the throttle body on the internet and find out where it is and how it works. Good luck!
maybe make it go into limp home mode..then film EXACTLY how you resolved it. only takes second to do and would help sooo many knowing EXACTLY what to do vs. just describing it verbally.
Did you ever solve the intermittent start issue? My '99 Viggen isn't wanting to start again after it's been driven, unless I give it some throttle and keep the revs up for a few seconds. Otherwise it'll turn over sputter and stop.
+Duchess DIY Its very possible that you have a bad direct ignition cassette. This will result in no start issues and the engine running erratically and misfiring (very common problem on Saabs)
So I have a Saab 9-3 and the car wont start now. I got the throttle body error and took off the hose to check. When I apply pressure I can't get it to open at all. Locked shut. Is that normal or is that most likely the problem?
trencher7 , I don’t know what your problem is. Mine always opened when I applied pressure. It obviously sounds like that’s not supposed to happen, but I’m a total amateur DIY’er, so I can’t say.
Betsy Jorgensen No, sorry, I don't know how to. A lot of my knowledge comes from internet searches of the problem. Then I read what others are doing. Good luck.
+Betsy Jorgensen Hi Betsy, this comment is fairly old so I might be too late to help you, BUT the 1997 Saab 900S used the Trionic 5 software, and the throttle body happens to tie into that. 1999 to 2002 (and '03 convertibles) used "fly by wire" to drive the car relying on this throttle cable as a backup in case the solenoid fails or something else catastrophic fails. The 93-98 Saab 900s did not have a solenoid and were directly controlled with the throttle cable, so the action she's performing here will not work on your vehicle. Whatever issue your vehicle is having unfortunately cannot be fixed this way. If there is an issue with rough idling or a potential startup issue you may be looking to clean your idle air control valve.
