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what stage transmission should I get for a used 2008 CBA GTR? I want to get an r35 and don't want the transmission to blow up. I was thinking stage 1,2 or 2.5.
Can someone please define “low speed” is this happening at say 2,000 rpm or say 5,000 rpm? Low speed pre ignition sounds to me like it’s caused by lugging the engine, now let’s say your engine makes peak torque at 5,500 rpm and peak power at 7,500 rpm, is low speed pre ignition happening at say 5,000 rpm? Or are we talking about someone lugging an engine down at say 2,000 rpm?
The problem I have found with it is that it leaves a black coating, which is easily removed with a wire brush, but that kind of defeats the object… Has anyone found a way of removing the coating without brushing?
So Does Nickel Plating Provide Better Heat Protection Than Ceramic Coatings? Im Gonna Try Out This Nickel Plating Mainly Becasue My Ceramic Coated Piatons Appear To Be Fadding / Burning Off And The Carbon Build Up Was Pretty Substantial I Feel. These Pistons Had About 20,000 Miles And Engine Us A Turbo 100HP Per Cylnder Engine. Im Hoping The Nickel Works Just As Good As A Thermal Barrier, Stay On Longer And Since Its Alot Smoother Resist Carbon Build Up.
DSPORT, Have you tried spraying it onto a rusty body panel or inside a frame rail by using a sump pump, garden hose, kiddie pool, and spray nozzle? Heating it could be done with a engine block heater pump from Tractor Supply that heats it up to 135 degrees. That's how they restored the 1957 Plymouth time capsule from Tulsa Oklahoma, but I don't think Ultra One Rust Remover company used a heat pad or engine block heater to heat it up.
Is the GM 3.6L considered HP? Or, Lake talked about the Mrs., and stated to just stick with the basic oil change at 500 miles? What do You think about AMSOIL?
Almost all of the performance shops and engine builders I've researched have said to do a change within 20-100 miles after first start (rebuilt engine). Keep moderate load (50-75% throttle at most) varying between 3-4k RPMs mostly, not to exceed that, no cruising/highway consistent runs or very short runs. Not to go WOT/full on until the 500-1000 mile break-in process. Wouldnt this be a bit different for race engines that are designed to fail very quickly and constantly be replaced? A v8 race motor that goes a few hundred or a thousand miles is a lot different than a 2.0l Ecoboost turbocharged engine that needs to last many thousands of miles as well as daily driving for years to come. I'm up there with the start up, get up to temps, check for leaks, make sure you have sufficient oil pressure and coolant temps, and give it anywhere from 50-100 miles and change the break-in oil out.. but doing it again for another couple hundred miles without going WOT and much boost is the general consensus. Why is this subject so subjective? Even manufacturers that sell cars like the new C8's, NSXs, GTRs, etc all say to not rag on the car and do a moderate break-in period for up to 1000 miles before tracking them or drag racing, etc. Not everyone has $8k+ to rebuild an engine every few months because they have hundreds of new engine parts on hand and can rebuild a new one in a day lol
Thanks for the heads up on the paper towels and plastic wrap! I have a old motor cycle with a lot of rusty chrome. This trick should work great! Thanks again, keep up the good work
About 3 years ago I bought a GM Chevy authorized cold air intake system for my truck. It says it has a dry filter media, The cone filter looks exactly like the one in your video Even has the metal bar that travels the full length of the filter. All it says in the instruction manual is that is a high performance dry filter media...
Where can I purchase that Fuji paper from ? And if you were to explain how to take the clamping measurements properly again how is the Fuji paper set between the block and head ? Does the Fuji paper sit on top of the headgasket ? Fuji below the headgasket ? Or no headgasket just the Fuji paper ? And then I assume you torque the head down to the block accordingly to the bolts/engine specs at hand correct ? I need to do this for my bmw s50 since I’m leaking coolant only 6months after doing a oem heDgasket with Arp2000 studs though 😩 Shit luck
Pour Evaporust through a coffee filter after use to remove excess sediments. Always always always expect to brush item with a wire brush or wheel after treatment.
When you are measuring in parts per million, how do you flush the tested oil out of the oiling system to have a clean system for the next test ? And was these tests performed before Comp Cams DLC lifter coating ?
So this was from two weeks ago and many of us are still wanting to know if DSport is still in business. Will there be another issue published? A 2024 calendar? The last word from you was about a month ago: Feb 11, 2024, 7:56 PM DSPORT Magazine "We just got setup with our new printer and we are supposed to be on press any week now so you will be getting the Dec/Jan and Feb issues in the coming weeks."
Can you post the charts for compression ratio thermic efficiency and volumetric efficiency? Does this mean there is a point where the amount of boost would dictate your compression ratio?
