Hi. Thanks for stopping by my channel my name is Terry and I create projects using a wood lathe and other woodworking tools. I upload new video every week on Mondays. I am always open to learning new ways to design and create something unique. I also love your feedback and suggestions. Join me and let's create something beautiful together.
Nice bowl. I love doing these and I to am a pack rat when it comes to scraps. I have a couple buckets I put specific wood into (walnut, cherry, and then a mix of stuff I don't use a lot of) and my plan is to get a wood chipper to feed these through to actually not have block looking wood pieces. I like your color choices in pigment as well. I am going to have to try this mix or resin/denatured alcohol though, looks like it covers easier than straight resin. Thanks for sharing and looking forward to seeing more videos.
This is cool. Been wood turning since 2018 and finally looking to build a wood kiln. Don't have a lot of room in my garage for one at the moment, but think this will help. Thanks for sharing!
As usual turned out great. I have been using the denatured alcohol and epoxy mix on some tables I made for a store down the road. It helps out greatly.
I love this wood, but you need very sharp tools to turn it as it will chip out. I have many more projects coming soon using this wood. Thanks for stopping by.
So you left the longer boards long to account for the snipe, pointed this out but then fed the "glue up" in the wrong way and the snipe is actually in your work piece. And who taught you how to use a miter guage backwards also?
These have a bit of snipe which is sanded out prior to finishing and using the miter guage backwards works better for me and I feel it is safer. Each to his own, it's just the way I do it and have been for 30 years.
Great review. My company has been at work on a PAPR with an all in one design monocoque manifold. Our aim is a PAPR that's more accessible to the DIY crowd. When we have certification, would you be willing to give it a try to compare? Its called MicroClimate Air3.
Hello. I ended up going back and getting another large piece I could not haul the first time. I got 325 board feet of this wood. More projects from this soon.
Just ordered that kit just a couple minutes ago. I watched several wood carving Videos and this seems like something that I can get into quite easy. Thanks for the video.
Another Update from South MS. Outside daily temps are close to 90 degrees, night temps are 70's. I had to enlarge the 1 1/2" air vents to 3" and have them set wide open.
@@crocuscreekwoodworks no. The humidifier seems to be working well. I did start putting anchor seal on the entire bowl and it's slowed the process. I'll wait and see just how much slower. I have one bowl made of Kentucky coffee bean. It was full water and the tree had been cut and laying on the ground three years. MC was still 35%. I had to lower the set max temp to 90 degrees. It was staying at 105 with no heat during the day. It now stays around 95.
I got mine set up. I based it on your build videos. I have it running on a hands-off system. I ran a bulkhead into the catch cup wit a tube down the drain of the freezer. Im running between 105°-110° . Ill need to get a good moisture meter, but based on information from a friend with a professional drying operation, i figure its going to take a month for each year you would expect to dry thick blanks. Thats my purpose. I don't get much tim to actually turn things at this point, but i have plenty of dry wood to work with. I keep finding new pieces of green and mostly wet wood that I don't want to wait years to use. I prefer turning dry wood as it gives me a more immediate completion. I would rather go start to finish in one shot.
Hello. I am sorry I have no experience with a Damp Rid. The dehumidifier I am using does a great job of collecting the moisture created by the Air flow and Heat.
Update: I live in South MS. So with daily temps now reaching the mid 80 degree this spring, I had to open the 1 1/2" air vents all the way and add 5 degrees to the calibrate mode of the Inkbird to maintain 100 degrees. My shop is insulated, but no air-conditioning. I'll probably have to adjust again with the summer temps.
Hello, that is great info. I have never had any issues with changing the ventilation here is Ky but in higher Humidity areas it's good to know that an adjustment is needed. Hope all is working out good with your Kiln.
@@crocuscreekwoodworks I've turned two, have 3 more at 6% waiting on me and two that were 35%, 9 days ago, I checked those today, they're now at 12%. No bad cracks. Something I've learned to do is when I put a bowl in at 35%, I'll check it at the end of the day and the next couple of days. If I see a small crack starting, I'll put some thin CA glue in it. So far I've not had a crack to continue. Thanks again.
5:57 5:58 That’s the most foolish statement in the otherwise good video. 100W is 100W - there is absolutely NO difference in “efficiency” unless you have some way of changing the laws of science. I’m not saying don’t use a heating element, I’m just saying 100W is just as efficient as any other 100W. 9:50 tinfoil isn’t going to protect wood - if it’s that much of a fire risk you’ll be just as well off keeping the foil in your baseball hat.
Thanks for your reply. It's not necessary to be nasty with your reply. If I have said something you don't agree with that's fine and understandable, however if you are going to comment please be respectful. Also, in regard to the Heating element vs the light bulb, the heating element is "More Consistent" in its heating ability over the lightbulb and provides a consistent and gentle source of heat for the use in Terrariums. Thanks
Do you still put anchor seal or some type of sealer on your items be for you put them in the kiln? Btw, I love the thoroughness of your video. I got all the Amazon items I needed in today and I’m ready to put this together tomorrow. Thank you :)
NO. I never use any sealer on the wood. I turn WET wood thick and dry until the turned blank is @ 8-12% moisture content then I re-turn to finish the piece. The kiln woks great and I use it daily. Thanks for stopping by and commenting.
I am a little bit confused. I have watched several videos on making cheese slicer boards. Some of them say tilt the board to cut the curve and some show you not too what do use to shim up the board
Hello. Yes, ALWAY tilt the board. Use a Paint Stick or Paint Stir or @ 1/8" - 1/4". It is the perfect thickness to angle the board for the groove. Hope this helps.
I'm heating up my new kiln for a test run as I write this. I'm watching the Inkbird to see if it shuts off heat and then reheats properly. It shut off heat at 101 and I raised the lid to drop the temp and it kicked on at 96.5. This is great!!! Thanks again for your instructions. Wish I could add a picture. Again, this is great!
@@crocuscreekwoodworks UPDATE: I've been really busy doing other projects, but I managed to get five bowls roughed in and in the kiln. Two are ready to finish on the lathe. I'm excited.
