hey mate - cool build, and awesome #s! (i arrived on this one from the dyno vid) Curious about the boost - you said peak at 9ish and drops to 7... was that something you wanted to fix? and if so what was the cause? Belt slip? Heat?
It's not actually a problem, it's just the nature of how positive displacement superchargers such as this one work. This Eaton M90 supercharger moves 90 cubic inches of air per supercharger revolution. No more; no less. Unlike a turbo, which is governed by wastegate which. When the boost pressure starts to drop, the wastegate starts to close, thus making the turbo work harder and flow more air. So the actual amount of air the turbo is flowing changes quite a bit through the rev range. Unlike a positive displacement supercharger. This engine happens to be less efficient in the lower RPMs, so it's taking less air. This means there's a buildup of excess air between the supercharger and the engine (in the intake manifold), IE boost pressure. But, when the engine starts getting more efficient in the higher RPMs, it is consuming more air. Meaning that excess pressure is dropping, thus the boost pressure drops. So, seeing the pressure drop is actually a good indicator that the engine is running efficiently! And we can see this lines up with the data we discovered in my VTEC video that features this same engine. As for "fixing" this issue, you'd just do the normal stuff. Smaller supercharger pulley or bigger crank pulley. So say you swap to an even smaller pulley and get the low RPM boost up to 12psi. That's great! But up in the higher RPMs it'll probably be around 10psi. That's just the nature of the beast!
@@BlackthumbTV Fantastic, thanks for the detailed response. I've installed a roots blower on a Toyota 1600 that does similar so appreciate it - mine will hold hold about 13psi through to 6000rpm then will taper off to 10.5-11 from there, the belt cant go any tighter, IATs are low so its probably doing what its going to do. Ill just enjoy it as is and not mess with it.
So easy the way you explain this! Even though I have had my brother drum this into me. This is easier to understand. Cheers from Australia subbed and liked 👍
Would love to see how you tuned this thing! Knowing turbo Subarus and Subarus in general, I’m curious how it was tuned to accept the supercharger boost (also love the sound of H6s, miss my Tribeca). That thing needs some raptor headers!
We got the Back up Back up 5 speed... OH man... That's solid. I began with a GC4, auto 4 door. I swapped that to a wrx 5 speed which wrecked the headers, that's got hit outside of Portland, bought an even junkier GC4, RS swapped the 5 speeds, and eventually put a limited slip rear dif from 1980s legacy, and the shenanigans continue. I want to drop a 2.5L in there.
If it's just a new intake alone, doesn't the ECU will adjust the fuel trim automatically? I remember there are a lot of ECUs got a fuel trim table which allows up to 20% fluctuation.
Yes, but many ECUs only use the learned values during idle and cruise conditions. So during WOT it does no learning, which I'd probably when you need it the most. It does this because the learning is not meant to compensate for aftermarket parts. It's to help with emissions.
This is entirely dependent on the specific car and CAN BUS. Short answer is most likely that those things won't work. I have CAN BUS video on this channel for more info.
Sir. You are very good at teaching something that usually seems very complicated. 😮 Everything seems clear and understandable whenever you speak. Thank you.
Ford said my truck's not compatible. But why do I have a yellow gas cap wtf I've been fueling up for 3 months ! And my truck ran the same I think it ran better faster and better mpg
I have 06 ford f150 with a yellow gas cap And I checked today with Ford. And they told me my truck's not compatible with E85. I've been running it in my truck for 3 months now. Why would they give you a Yellow gas cap with e? Eighteighty five on it, if you can't use that? And my truck ran a lot faster with it. And my truck ran good, but my check engine light came on with running to lean. But my conspiracy is ethanol is a lean fuel. It's alcohol so wtf
It makes one wonder that if E85 produces cleaner emissions then why aren't all modern vehicles produced with flexfuel capability. It would have to be flexfuel since E85 isn't available everywhere. I'm installing a flexfuel kit on my Mustang this weekend in preparation for a supercharger. I've been told that I can run E85 without a supercharger but as you mentioned in your video I would need to upgrade the injectors regardless if I have a supercharger installed. Not sure if I need to upgrade the fuel pump for more flow just yet. I just replaced a defective fuel pump last summer - that sure was fun 🙄.
I think the engine setup and power are perfect. My suggestion would just slowly start feeding it STI suspension, drivetrain, and brake parts as time a budget allow. If you still like it after all that consider wheels, job done. Such a setup would probably be one of the best, most well rounded Subaru builds ever done.
I personally break the law this is probably like the 10th E85 video I watched in past 2 days. Been wanting to modify my car, specifically my prius, for flex fuel for so long. I know it's doable, but to do it proper it's a project (for me) and there is no real value to doing it, I just want to!
Now I Never knew that I was hurting, but in fact Every time I took a her in it was the burner in the back But if that burner was the cause of all the pain (song about my K swapped RX8 rn)
I ended up getting a kit of 3/16" flare nuts on Amazon, that came with a number of different nuts, including the ones that go into the brake master. The ones in the brake master are quite big, but there was a very "thick" nut that that made it work. I believe it was indeed a simple M12x1 & 3/16 nut. The kit made it easy and I've used it quite a bit since then for reasons such as this, including another RX8 swap I'm working on right now (K swap)
@@BlackthumbTV awesome. I was planning to make mine as simplified as possible. I was in between buying a 2004 JDM master which Kyle Mohan runs. But that means I wouldn’t be able to take one from a local part out in a pinch.
this video was well put together, succinct and straight to the point in a clear and concise manner. a saccharine *thankyou* for the huge amount of time that would've gone into making this. As someone who's halfway through a v6 swap into my 5-speed forester, the wiring was admittedly, daunting. Now knowing a standalone has so much interoperability is extremely useful. thanks man.
Dude, awesome videos, just "lost" 5hrs on your channel trying to learn. Im in the process of going ez30r into a 3 gen legacy. Canbus into non canbus. You've convinced me that the haltech is the way to go but how did you get around the anti theft bits? Ive got the ez30's bcu, ecu, cluster and key. Did you use the old cluster? I have the full loom from the ez30r vehicle. Tia. Subscribed!
Take a gander at the Wiring video I made if you haven't had a chance, but the short version is that the engine is just a hunk of metal until an ECU decides to send it signals to run it. The factory ECU has anti-theft software code in it, which would cause it to decide not to run the engine. So, we just replace that entire factory ECU with something that doesn't give a crap, such as the Haltech. Then the engine will run. Alternatively, you can reprogram the factory ECU to disable the anti-theft code via "tuning" or re-flashing the factory ECU with a modified software. Good luck with your project!
@@BlackthumbTV oh, I watched it! And loved it! Haltech = money but no headaches. Definitely helped me make decisions. Thanks. Did you literally go barbarian on the manifolds or have a pattern to follow?
i have a question, i am planning on modifying my peugeot 206gti(yeayea euro car i know) with a bigger intake manifold(that of the 206 RC), bigger throttle body and equal length headers catback system. when doing this will i still be able to drive lets say 40 odd minutes to a tuner to get it tuned and proper dialed in or am i already severely risking my engine doing this? im planning on getting it all installed in one go so i dont have to hassle a lift for multiple times. cheers!
Honesty, it'll probably be fine. When you first start it up and drive it after the mods, if it's running like shit (misfiring or hiccuping etc) then def don't drive it. Otherwise just don't hit boost and be gentle.
@@BlackthumbTV it's an NA engine I should've specified sorry! But thank you for the reply! I'll come back to this comment when I have it done with the mods! I hope to get it from 135 to abouts 170 hp!
