Just a Dad working on a bunch of different stuff. DIY Projects, how-to, minivans, and mountain bikes. If I can't find a good video about what I'm looking for, I try to make a video to pay it forward.
Can you tell me why my brake on the Drivers side is making an intermittent clanging sound. I have an issue trying to make the noise when I go to show it to the mechanic - I can usually get it to do it but if requires me to drive and pump the park pedal many times and at other times, it will happen with what it seems all the time. The shop put in a Master Cylinder Booster. It actually made it clang more. The brakes have been well maintained. I was wondering if it is either a wrong part or it was put back incorrectly. Any suggestions ?
I’m assuming you are talking about the front brake, not the rear. (the part about the park brake pedal would make me think rear as the park brake doesn’t do anything with the front brakes) My first question would be, does it do the same thing going straight, or more if you are turning? My only experience with brakes that make a clunking type of sound would be using crappy brake pads. I had that happen once on a Dodge Dakota years ago. Every time I would turn the wheel hard over, they would clunk. I had the correct part for the truck, but they were the absolute cheapest pads I could find at the time. I swapped them to a set of OEM pads and the problem completely disappeared. Outside of that, I’d make sure your caliper is mounted properly and double check that all of the clips holding the pads are in place properly and that the pins holding the pads are properly lubricated.
I'm not frm US, is there law against the cat doing it naturally in your outside - garden? Idea is excellent minus the ventilation part which can be excluded if u clean it frequently. The litter made from pine really takes away de stink. But it expensive. Anyway bravo to your litter box and good luck with bandit!!
No laws against that so far as I’m aware. Butters (orange cat) actually likes to go outside in a sandy area of the yard. Our bigger problem with him using the outdoor area is that our dog likes to go find the cat poop and eat it. No clue why dogs like to eat cat poop so much, but for him it’s like digging for treasure out there! 🤮
Hello, your saw is defective. I had the same problem with my saw. Sent it back and received a new one. No wiggle on the new saw. Only wish they made a cordless version.
Not sure your exact scenario, but can you measure from center of exiting hole out at least two different directions and mark with a pencil? If you can measure out further than size of the cardboard, you should be able to then measure that in reverse to find the center after the cardboard is in place. At least that’s how I would try to accomplish that. Hope it helps.
I recently upgraded to an iPhone 15 and I cannot get the phone to connect to Apple Carplay with a USB to USBc cable. Have you tried to connect an iPhone 15 via the Ottocast adapter?
Hi Sarah. Not the iPhone 15, but I’m upgrading my wife’s phone to the iPhone 16 this week. I’ll report back after I get that done later this week. I’ll also test with the type C cable.
Ok I just tested. I can confirm with iPhone 16, running IOS 18 that the cable and the Ottocast both work with CarPlay just fine. Not sure if you tried multiple cables yet, but maybe just a bad cable?
You said it didn’t matter which side of the squealer tab goes on. So therefore it’s very important which side they go onto. Please stop giving bad information. At least mention the squeal tab.
Hmmm, you need to re-watch my friend. I didn’t mention squeal tabs because they are built into the pads. I did say that the PADS were not side specific and they aren’t. Those particular pads can go on either side. Had they been side-specific I would have said something (just like I did when discussing the rotors 11:00). But thanks for incorrectly calling me out. Appreciate that.
Of course, the squeal tab is built-in into the pad. That’s why the pads are side specific. There are two pads that have squeal tabs. If you look really closely, the squeal tab is present opposite of the other. That’s the only way to be able to install the tabs at the leading edge of rotation. So your explanation of how you’re not wrong proves exactly how wrong you are. Those two tabs have to be at the leaning edge on the inside portion of the rotor. The inside pad wears at a faster rate in the outside pad. That’s why they are placed on the inside pad. And they are placed at the leading edge to make maximum sound when engaged. There is a S.C.I.E.N.C.E. to this, there is an explanation to this. For you to say it doesn’t matter again prove my point that you have absolutely no business, giving people advice because you don’t know what you’re talking about.
I get what you are saying. But what I’m telling you is that that THOSE pads are 100% identical. That kit comes with 4 pads that can go on either side of either caliper. There’s no difference with the pads I installed. Go be angry at someone else on the internet now. Or better yet, go make your own video.
And I’m telling you that I just installed those exact same pads Friday morning On my 2017 tundra. The exact same pads and the two pads that have squeal tabs on them are directional. So why don’t you get some integrity. You’re a lying POS and you just keep denying that you’re wrong and you’re giving people bad information because you don’t have the integrity the honor to admit that you’re wrong and learn from your mistake. That’s what Jesus off about you is you have no honor or integrity.you could have said a long time ago, oh I learned something new. But you just keep on with the line. You could’ve said hey everybody I’m sorry I got something wrong. Here’s the correct information before you install something incorrectly due to my error. But you’re not saying you’re wrong. You continue to argue. You would rather save your own miserable face, then step up to The plate like a man and say hey I got something wrong.
These particular ones are just RGB. You can get decent white out of them, so long as you can keep the voltage up across long runs. But if white is a priority, I’d consider a RGBW option.
I had a company come out to give me an estimate. He measured 42 feet and estimated $6800! I bought all the wires, pixels, connectors, channels, controller, 12v 60A power supply, and rented a boom lift to do it myself for about $1000. The only difference is that I did almost 100 feet instead of 42 feet. And I got to spend an afternoon with my grandson on the boom lift. :) DIY is the way to go if you have more time than money, or if you have a few skills.
Please reconsider the oil change interval - according to many Toyota specialists, the oil should be changed every 5000 miles. Look it up - don't trust the Toyota factory.
I wouldn’t discourage anyone from changing at 5000. I’ve switched to only using mobile one filters and so far, my experience has been that at 5k miles, my oil still looks fantastic. Not dirty at all. But I do check the oil regularly if I see it getting dirty prior to 10k, I’ll change it sooner. It’s difficult when Toyota factory is not alined with other car experts. Appreciate the comment! 👍
Was hoping you were also doing the transmission oil change. I'm shocked at how we have almost exactly the same tools, oil, oil drain tray and even the same coveralls for oil changes! Good job!
@@DadDoingStuff Yes - they coveralls just went through the wash. Tranny change was very easy, just have to properly lift/support the car b/c it's so big/heavy. Getting the shield(s) off was a little tricky because sand got caught in the plastic clips and had to replace one of them. Bought new washers but just flipped and reused the old ones. Everything was so clean at 50K miles but I think the car was shifting a bit smoother after the change, have to drive it more to get a feel. In any case, Toyota made everything very accessible and the change was easy. Under 4 quarts up front and under 2 in the back. Had 7 quarts on hand just in case. Had just over 1 qt. leftover, maybe 1.5 or 1.25 qts. Just used a $7.50 Horrible freight pump with some teen helpers to refill it quickly. Clean job.
Excellent. I’ll use the headphones. I am getting a message when I try to turn the volume up that says “volume can not be adjusted when front and back are working independently” (I may be wrong with the exact wording on the screen but it’s close. 🙄😬) I have a bad short term memory 😅 but it was some like that. Otherwise I have to say! I’m glad I came across this video. You’re very knowledgeable and I love the cartoon cut ins for entertainment purposes. 🤓👍 👏🏻👏🏻
Thanks Thomas. Yeah those screens are tricky because of all the caveats between the front and rear, CarPlay or no CarPlay, Bluetooth, etc. we honestly rarely use ours. But when you can get the kids with some headphones on…..it’s always nice break during those long drives!
Hi Shelbie. On a quick search, this shows the proper mounts that my truck used. Keep in mind that I didn’t buy new mounts for mine, but used the stock ones that were already there. www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts-list/2002-dodge-dakota/engine_mounting/engine_mounting_front.html I would recommend visiting an actual auto parts store to make sure you get the correct mounts for your particular truck. Hope that helps!
I totally disagree. Great job going slow enough and thorough enough for beginners. I hate when hosts speak too fast and you don’t have time to think about what they say, internalize, make it your own, and consider your own situation.
@@TimSpreitzer I understand what youre saying, but there are different ways to produce something. the reason I stated its too slow and too long wasnt about the information, it was about the pacing. in an era of shorts, videos like this are going to be quickly outdated im not saying that to be disrespectful. the knowledge is appreciated, but if IM not sitting through it, or have a hard time sitting through it, youre losing a lot of viewers
@@davidpatriot1082 I totally understand your perspective, and I respect your opinion. You're right, this could be too slow for someone with some experience. Luckily you can go to Setting > Playback speed and speed it up, up to 2X. I bet this is not your very first WLED / LED video or experience. For those that this might be their first, they could not go to Settings > Playback speed and slow it down if it was too fast. That being said, there is nothing wrong with you expressing your opinion, and I didn't mean to imply otherwise. If I came across that way, I apologize.
Hi Robbie. I did get some performance gains over the stock impellers. Not dramatic but noticeable. Few MPH on the top end and more juice out of the hole.
I would suggest this for any Car Or Truck: Get your car or truck under a shade, or start early sun rise. then lower the widows down on the side you are working on. Place the new roof molding on to the grove, just to see how it goes on. Make sure the Molding is the right one for the side. Make sure you clean the grooves very good, w/soap and water, I had to clean mine about 4-5 times, I got a 2011 Dodge Ram w/only 73,000 miles. But anyway, make sure you dry the groves when you are satisfied w/the cleaning. Then proceed to take off only one of the tapes covering the adhesive on the new moldings, that's if they came w/it, the last thing you want is to get dust on the adhesive and proceed to the next adhesive tab until you get to the end. Once the New Moldings are in place, I would put on some 6" Clamps, just above the adhesive area of the molding, and let it set there for a couple of hours, let the adhesive cure, and you are done. Now if you are using the same roof top moldings because they became unglued, and it happens w/time. Order some 3M-5200 Boat Adhesive, it is completely waterproof. Take several close up pictures of the ends of the molding as they are on the car or truck, so you can put them back on the same way, especially the Front End. Then take off the original moldings off, prep the groves very clean, and make sure they are dry. Clean the old roof top moldings really good, w/soap and water, and try to scrape off the old glue at the back side. Take your time, have patience. After washing the original moldings, make sure they are completely dry, it is a must. Do one side completely first, so you won't mix up the moldings. So once clean, prep the 3M-5200 Boat Adhesive, and use the small plastic cone shape cap. Run a small bead of the 3M-5200 inside the groove, w/in the middle area, put it from one end to the other, and then slowly put the Original Moldings back on. Once on, put some masking tape on top of the molding, and press lightly on to the moldings, at the ends on the tape just pench the ends so when you take them off, just pull on it, .Use the clamps, not too tight, just enough to press on the moldings down ward, I used 5 clamps on the Truck. Please pay attention to the front of the moldings, if not then rain water could very well go into the inside of your car or truck. I let the 3M-5200 adhesive dry all day, Be careful w/the tube, the aluminum tube is very flimsy, it can break open very easily, also the cone shape cap does not get too tight, you can easily strip the plastic cap. I got the 3M-5200 from Amazon for about $10.00, and so instead of buying new Moldings at $260.00 each, I just spent the 10 Dollars, and I let the adhesive dry, I left my truck in the drive way. Make sure the day you are working on your car or truck that it is not going to rain for the day. After you take off the clamps, be very careful when pulling off the tape. You don't want the tape to pull on the moldings, just pull a little at a time, I had a small scraper that match the with of the groove, and I press on the molding w/the scraper from behind the tape as I pull it off If you want, you can lightly spray paint the Original Moldings, w/black lacquer, don't use anything else after you clean them really good and give it plenty of time to dry completely , don't use any silicone spray paint you will ruin the moldings.. . Good Luck, I hope I was able to help someone.
Thank you! I have a 22 sienna hybrid and we love it! We bought it with 44,000 miles and I’ve now done three oil changes and we’re currently at 55,000 miles (I’ve used your change video BTW, thank you) Any other maintenance stuff I should be thinking of? I know there’s hybrid batteries underneath the front seats. I have not done anything with that other than kind of vacuum that vent area a few different times.
It’s a pretty sweet little van. Mostly maintenance free, but…. You should be removing those vents under the seats and cleaning the battery filters. Also change the engine air filter and cabin air filter on occasion. I have videos on all of those if you get stuck on anything. Drop a comment if you get stuck on anything. Cheers!
We sealed ours with Flex seal 2 years ago and no leaks and yes it does gets dirtier that the original liner. But the inside of the camper stays cooler in hot weather and when we check the seals every year my wife does this, she is much lighter than me. The original roof used to get superhot but with the flex seal she can sit or walk without feeling the heat being absorbed into the roof like it used to do. We really like it.
My truck had them both gone. I ordered new ones but can’t tell which goes where. One front tab faces left, the other right? Does the tab on the end face in or out?
The tab in question makes a 90 degree bend right at the end. That part should be pointing towards the inside or middle of the truck. They should NOT be facing the outside of the truck. Hopefully that makes sense.
Really a good video and dry informative. I appreciate your information based on two years of use rather than someone who just took it out of the box. Keep up the great work sharing honest information.
Thx Dennis. Appreciate you saying that. Note Kreg was gracious enough to send me a replacement saw and didn’t want the old saw back. New saw has been pretty solid so far. I have quite a few cuts on it. Cheers!
Can I connect my iPhone to Carplay wireless on the 2024 Sienna? I haven't been able to get it to connect to CarPlay, but I can play music from my phone on the Sienna.
Have you looked inside the vent after taking off the filter cover? I noticed that there are 2 white sponge like filters. The dealers have no idea and are unable to find me the part number. Its a secondary filter which collects finer dust.
I take those out and clean them with compressed air. If they’re really bad you could probably rinse them with water. I barely let mine get dirty. The one in this video looks like it has 100k miles on it.
