I'm building guitars - join me on my luthier journey & I'll show you how you can do this too.
My name is Keiron, I am a Guitar-Tech / Luthier based in Kidderminster in the Wyre Forest area.
After letting my six-string gather dust for far too long, I finally picked up my guitars again but became frustrated I couldn't find a luthier in my local area that I trusted enough to carry out the work needed on my beloved instrument.....so I decided to learn how to do it for myself. Since then, I have worked on dozens of instruments, setting them up to play and feel like they should, not how they come from the factory or straight out the case.
I started my channel as I have entered the Great Guitar Build Off, #GGBO2022, so I can show the guitar I am building and explain the process as I go. We should always be learning and I'd love to hear from you in the comments what you think and how you do it, or just to say Hi.
ARGGHH! Masking tape the pickups. Open up the bag of 0000 steel wool and get crackin'! Cleans both the frets and the board. Use a magnet to collect the residue or a paper towel. Apply your favorite board oil. Apply strings. Tune. Play.
Thanks for watching the video & commenting; point taken but I don’t like using wire wool so found another way. I’ve lately started using scotch-brite pads, does the same job but with less mess.
I've got the exact same guitar. Fell off my stand one day when I was careless. Took a chip of paint off by the tuners, didn't pay much attention otherwise. Now I'm noticing those cracks in the finish on the body, guessing it was from the drop but also hearing it is an issue with the white nitro finished guitars....who knows.
Thanks for watching my video 👍 I’ve not seen them on another guitar as yet, so guessing it is an issue with the finish on them; I’ve got an epi LP with a chip above the jack (strap broke on stage) had it 25yrs and no issues 🤷🏻♂️
Started with a bobbin sander 80 & 120 grit, then when using finer grades I use foam sanding blocks that mould to the contours as you move around. Thanks for watching 👍
I leave the clamps on overnight to let the glue cure fully. Strings go on after the frets are levelled and dressed, then it generally can take a few days for it to get used to the tension before tuning settles down. Thanks for watching 👍
i really enjoyed that, in 1987 i built a guitar with a carvin neck , african mutenye wood body, and rasped and filed by hand. unfortunately it was stolen at a house party i had, where i wasnt smart enough to not be the passed out host...
in most videos of others, im not seeing any slight scooping out of bevels, although ive seen some concave bevels in pictures in older models. would you attempt a 1/32" deep or so cupping or scooping of bevel internally of the lines, with a curved razor sharp gouge? like in lathing? if you woudnt let me know
@jbenedict967 tbh, it would depend on the thickness of the top - to do a full re-carve into the edge, ideally you’d need around 18-22mm thickness to give you enough material to carve into. I mark out where I want to carve and remove the excess until I get to where I like how it looks rather than go for a definite depth.
14:00 hey keiron, great build footage. May I know how you flattened out those small "middle marker" holes from the forstner bit? Thank you and have a great day 🙂
Hi there, thanks for watching my video. Sure, when using the forstner bits I set the depth a few mm shallower than final depth. The tips on mine are 3mm, so I generally leave 5mm. Once the majority of the material is out, I use the router to go to final depth which removes them. It takes a lot of strain and wear away from router cutters. Best wishes
Whatever cloth you're using to condition the fretboard seems rough, judging by the sound. Wouldn't that undo all the hard work you did to polish the frets? Seems like it would be logical to condition the fretboard first, then polish the frets and then use some kind of microfibre cloth to get rid of any gunk left over. I'm about to do this for the first time with a Dremel (done it plenty of times with 0000 steel wool, but way too much hassle). And yes, the Dremel bit should be rotated 90 degrees as others have said. I'll be using FRINE fret polish and lemon oil. Maybe I'll make a video too, if i can be bothered. Cheers
Thanks for watching, I’m always changing how I do stuff, now using a leather strop as a final buff it removes it much better. I’ve found conditioning first gets polish residue stuck in it sometimes. Yeh, 90degrees is better but if there’s a lot of compound In a spot it goes everywhere. I’m more sparing with it now.
I have one form years ago and am just getting round to building it. Isn't the tone pot route wrong? feel like the dish should be the same as the others... I con't tell if im going mad or not haha
@WhitefootGuitars but the 3rd hole (furthest back) seems to be drilled for the toggle and the middle hole and front hole seem to be drilled for pots. So it's that middle dish that confuses me, I'm trying to figure out how to open it out to the same as the others
Thank you, it’s kind of fun-but-scary using the angle grinder. A router bit would be much more accurate & repeatable, but I don’t have the right kind of cutters for it yet.
Hi there, thanks for watching, appreciate your time & feedback. I can see how it might cause an issue, but I’ve never had any so far. Adjustments are tiny, and as I’m blocking off the trem it may be giving extra support to changes in tension. If it was an aggressive adjustment of 2-3mm in one go I think it would be more likely to cause a problem, certainly something to think about.
@@WhitefootGuitars I stock Fret Butter, Maple Butter, Guitar Clean, and Rabbit Fur. Let me know if you're interested. I'm sold out of the Rabbit Fur, but have an order arriving soon.
Hi, thanks for watching my video, the block stays in until the tuning is stable and the intonation / action is set - this is so we know the trem is set where we want it for the string tension at the tuning we want. When the block comes out it’s often easier to adjust the screws on the trem claw in the back cavity to get the tuning back in the right place. Long as you don’t change string gauge or tuning it shouldn’t be necessary again. Works with any floating trem system, including Floyd’s
U should of dressed the frets first lad, levelled them out , there is deep diverts in first 3 frets, pointless polishing frets and conditioning, cleaning board , u was saying how importent the frets were on a guitar,,, which they are, then u just cut corners , 😂
Fixed it for you: "You should have dressed the frets first lad, then levelled them out. There are deep divots in the first 3 frets; it's pointless polishing frets then conditioning and cleaning the board. you were saying how important the frets were on a guitar, which they are, then you just cut corners , 😂" The owner didn't want me to dress them, just a clean & polish then a setup, but thanks for watching 👍
A bostin looking guitar, great top. I see a lot of people doing what you did but it puzzles my small mind. In my head routing the electrics channel before gluing the top on, seems easier and less risky than using a long drill bit from the neck pocket. Perhaps it's just me. Sorry for being late to the party. Have you made another?
Thank you, it’s one I’m proud of, glad you enjoyed the video 👍 if I was mounting a scratch plate or if the selector switch was at the top bout (like a Les Paul or Tele deluxe) I would have done a channel for wiring. It’s scary drilling through but long as you’re careful it’s ok. I’m making another but have had a break over winter due to life getting in the way but will be getting back to it soon.
@@WhitefootGuitars thanks for replying, I'm on my fourth build. It is too cold in my shed at the moment to do anything but the planning. Believe me, routing the wiring Chanels before gluing the top on is far less stressful, if it were to go wrong, no one will see it. Only if it is a solid body would the big companies drill from the neck pocket. But if you are happy doing it, then keep doing it. What is the next project?
@antonrandle4146 I’m with you on the cold, a single-skin garage in winter isn’t funny 🥶 I’ve got 2 on the go, a PRS body I made a neck for and I was in the build off 2023 but didn’t get to finish in time, I’ll be getting it done over the next few weeks hopefully
Thank you Nick, we had a rough end to last year which left me unable to finish it on time but I will be getting it done asap, appreciate your support 🙏🤘
Just picked up 1983 production #7 Studio alpine white. Couple of dings, white is fading into yellow with a few laquer cracks not noticeable. All original with molded hard shell case. Got a good deal! Don't know why some people hate on the Studio? It the same as a Standard without the cosmetics.
Great find mate, glad you got a good deal. I’ve always found them to play better, they’re more like my 97 Epiphone honey burst; still my favourite guitar.
1) Can you let me know if intonating a guitar at rest vs. in a sitting position? I was trained to intonate in a sitting position. 2) What is the gap distance at first fret for each string at the NUT stage?
It’s best to make adjustments to the guitar setup in playing position because it is the playing position. Gravity can affect things when it’s lying down, not much but it can be measured with the right equipment. I’ll generally get it somewhere close then dial it in holding it in playing option. String height at first fret will be different for each guitar depending on how it’s made, fret height, nut height, string gauge… Hold the string down at 3rd fret and the string should just clear the first fret, that should be somewhere close then you can file the nut in small amounts to get it precise, but there’s not one ‘correct’ distance that will suit every guitar and player.
Doing my first ever complete build soon and this is the first video I came across about getting the fretboard round. I'm sort of a carpenter but was struggling to find a method without too much fancy stuff and this is so simple :D Thanks dude! Just technical stuff about the video since I pay attention to that stuff a lot. Don't be afraid to look INto the camerea. You come off pretty chill (good thing) so no worries! Cheers
Thanks man, glad it helped and good luck with the build. If you’ve got carpentry experience it should make it easier, any questions just ask. Appreciate the feedback, will try to do that 👍
If you can afford it, Famag - they’re about the best I’ve used & worth the money. I’ve also got a set of Fisch wood drill bits in a set up to 13mm which are very good.
I read that the 16” radius is great for soloing but not so good for strumming chords (which is my style). I tried my first 7.25” radius fretboard recently (a made-in-America telecaster ‘51 vintage II) and was amazed how easy it was to play for rhythm (despite the baseball bat of a neck). Is your vision for the 2023 guitar to be a lead guitar special?
Here's a solution I've developed. From Autocad, I've been printing full 1:1 scale line drawings of my different fret boards (I have different scale lengths/numbers of frets/fanned/straight etc), all of which include the scale length in large numerals, the edges and ends of the board, the fret positions, a centerline, and positions for dot inlays. I use a scalpel and a steel straight edge to cut the drawing free of the paper stock, then gently roll it up from the body end. I then apply a thin layer of boiled sugar and water solution (cooled) to the board, and then aligning the centerline on the headstock end of the paper cutout to the centerline previously marked on the board, I carefully roll the template down the length of the board, smoothing it carefully down as I go, and aligning the body end centerline to its premarked mate on the board. I then let it dry completely, usually overnight. I only do this on fully flat, installed, but unradiused boards. I got sick of second guessing the fret positions, referring to tables, and squinting at a ruler. This method has a learning curve to it with respect to how the paper is unrolled so it does not distort, and with how much sugar solution to use (which largely depends on the wood species). Practicing on a dummy board until you get the method down is best. Once the solution has dried, the paper is stuck fast, and the fret positions are stark black against the white of the paper. As an added bonus, if the drawing is done correctly, and printing is true to size, the fret positions are extremely accurate. And obviously the CAD file can be printed over and over. So after you've sawn the fret slots, and drilled for any markers should you wish, the next step is to sand the paper template off with a flat beam, or just use the raduising beam and proceed as usual. Because the sugar glue dries crispy, and is relatively very weak, the template and the adhesive are gone in no time. Some quick clearing of the slots will be needed, but that has to be done in any event. Nice looking neck you're working on.
I felt that. You kept at it. I've really been struggling with my GGBO build Last year went like clockwork. This year it's one long battle. So much so that I haven't even put out a video yet.
Thanks mate, agree this year is a struggle; tools failing & doing stupid things. Got a lot going on in real life too, not sure I’ll make the deadline on this one. Keep going & post when you can 👍
Better ,more consistent result by turning the Drexel 90°.going parallel with the fret.this way any "grain" to the polishing goes the same way as bending the strings...smoother
I've not worked on many guitars with ebony fretboards so I've never noticed, though the player can make a difference - I was at college with a guy who had really sweaty hands - he could turn strings brown playing a gig; we never wanted to loan him our guitars.
