FixMyApp is a relaxed RU-vid channel where you can see educational videos of interesting repairs and analyze PCB boards builds from my perspective.
My name is Jimmy and I am a hobbyist technician with a degree in electronics engineering and software development. I've been interested in electronics since I was a child. I was that kid who took every electronic device apart to see how they worked.
In the last few years my interest was mainly in component level repair so I learned to repair electronics on my own and with some help from fellow engineers. Sometimes I succeed in repairing a device and sometimes I don't.
I buy faulty electronics with my own money and try to repair it and then sell it for a profit. In this process I try to learn how the device works and try to make a Diary for the repair community through this RU-vid channel.
@@fixmyappjim Hey Jim, that would be very nice, because I already tried two socket swaps yesterday, but it was always a bit too hot towards the end. Removing the socket was possible after 14:40min and went very well. Aligning the socket also went very well, but the reball was not good. Does the socket have to move a little when you do the nudge test or shouldn't it? I have now finished the station and calibrated it very well. I used your profile 2, but I waited until step 6 for the reball, although I was able to remove the socket at the beginning of step 5. I still have 6 defective Z170s with socket damage in my workshop that I can try it out on. I also have enough sockets to carry out a socket swap Would look forward to a reply Thanks and keep up the good work!
Hi Toby, Good to hear that your rework station is working :) I increased the soaking time by 30 seconds and the maximum top heater temperature is 128 degrees with a large dwell time. The nudge test should move the socket a little bit, use some flux or else the nudge test will fail. I took me a few scrap motherboard to test my profile and to determine the best reflow profile for the sockets. Eventually if you create a good profile you should not even do the nudge test but just complete the rework program, i almost at this point :). Thank you for watching. Gr. Jim
@@fixmyappjim Okay, so profile 2 should still remain. Only under Soak +30s Time or? Which Dwell Time did you use? I also have some spare boards to try it out. Best regards
I like to buy all the BGA parts that I have to replace new and thus NOT have to use the "templates" and place the "balls" myself... well, I admit that I am lazy to do the latter and of course I need a preheater like yours because if you don't have it you will have a very bad day trying it. Thank a lot Jimmy for showing us this successful work procedure. Congratulations. Greetings from Mexico. PS: I looked at mouser to order a couple of parts for LGA1151 in my next order, they are at a very good price but are out of stock at the moment.
Hi Carlo's i had the same problem reballing can be very frustrating when you don't have the right tools. If i get better tools i sell or get rid of the old tools or else my room will be too small to work. LGA1151 socket are not so expensive i have some on stock for every generation motherboard that supports DDR4. Thanks for watching. Gr. Jim
This video is great, but if I have one complaint, it's that it ultimately leads you to a dead end. I have a bunch of shorts on caps around the max chips and because it's not a dead short, I can't inject voltage to find what's causing the short. All my diode and tesistance readings are off, but what do I do on response to those readings being off? This video just kind of leads you down the trail and abandons you.
Hi thanks for watching, yeah i can't document everything these are just the most common faults based on experience don't forget there are no schematics which makes repairing hard and also explaining it. Gr. Jim
Leuk dat je gekeken hebt inderdaad de SMPS van de playstation is op zich niet zo ingewikkeld en mooier nog je kunt componenten vervangen, sommige fabrikanten vullen vaak een witte lijm waardoor repareren niet rendabel is. Ik heb electronica gestudeerd. Gr. Jim
Hi one end of a capacitor will go to ground and the other end will be a powerrail if that one is shorted less then 10 ohm then i would inject 0,8V with 1Amp at that location and see which components is getting hot. Gr. Jim
Hi there. Can I please ask whether or not there should be a clock signal present on pin 6 of the bios chip and at the 32.768khz crystal oscillator at all times? As you said it receives power from the 3V battery when the console is not plugged in. I'm not seeing this signal on the oscilloscope. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Hi PIN 6 of the BIOS chip should start when the console is booting up, when you press the power button the clock signal should be generated to communicate with the BIOS IC. The 32.768khz crystal oscillator should always be generating this frequency. It is used for the real time clock. Check is the coin cell battery is present and voltage is +- 3V if battery is ok it should generate this frequency, if not present you have to solve this problem first as the Sourthbridge will not work without a clock signal. Gr. Jim
Thank you so much once again mate. My problem is definitely in this area. I have voltages of approx 3.17 very close to the crystal, but none actually on the crystal itself, therefore it does not produce the frequency. I changed the South bridge, but no change. Deep down I knew it's because of the missing clock signal. I even see the attempt of data transfer on an oscilloscope between the bios chip and South bridge...but without the clock, everything shuts down. Thank you brother!
Hi i don't know as there is not much information about the inner workings of the joy-con boards. Also i did not do a in depth analysis about the circuit. Best method is to have a working joy-con and measure it. Gr. Jim
Hey, now I'm done with the station. However, my temperature sensors are still showing values above 50°C and the heating plates are not getting warm either, they are ice cold. What could be my problem? Would look forward to an answer from you
Hi, nice to hear that you are building it! :) First i would check if the heating plates are getting the 220V when the controller is on. If a controller is on then the LED on the controller should be turned on, this means the relais is on. Check if your temperature profile is set or is running then the program will turn the relais on. For the temperature sensor check the settings in the controller, checkt the type of thermocouple in compatible with the temperature controller because there are different types available and then you have to adjust the sensor settings in the controller. Gr. Jim
@@fixmyappjim Hey, thanks for your message. The following is now available: My station is finished, PC410 and C100 come on at startup and also display values. I switch on FAN, B12, B34 and RUN. The top heater SSR then switches on, bottom heaters remain cold. LED only comes on for the top heater SSR, nothing happens for the bottom heater SSR. Both controllers are also not calibrated, there is only an old profile on the PC410 and the setting 180°C on the C100. I'm not sure what is meant by "sensor setting". In addition, both temperature sensors are the recommended Omega K from lybga on Aliexpress. Hence my question: What could the problem be based on my error description? How would I also measure the 220V of the heaters, what is a suitable measuring point? Where can I find the sensor settings for the controllers and what is meant by the settings? If it still doesn't work correctly after a few attempts, I would also consider sending my station to them. In my opinion, an alternative purchase of an IR Pro SC would not be the ideal idea for an almost complete station. I would therefore be pleased to hear back from you. Perhaps a contact as an alternative to the RU-vid chat would also be a good way to get to the bottom of the problem Many thanks and hope to hear back soon Greetings Tobi
Hi in my video i only start the bottom heater when a profile is running. When you press run the OUT2 led is ON meaning the switch in the PC410 is on. If the LED of the C100 is also turned on then the circuit to drive the SSR is complete meaning 220V will reach the bottom heaters. So in order to heat the bottom heaters both OUPUT LED schould be on. One on the PC410 and one C100 then you know the bottom heaters should get 220V. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-x_y1_9Fg3Io.htmlm59s OUT2 should be on ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-x_y1_9Fg3Io.htmlm18s OUT1 should be on ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-aWiNoVIwlAE.htmlm07s check here the circuit of my bottom heater I think you temperature sensor settings schould be ok as you use the same type. but double check it. Use the SET button to cycle through the main menu of C100 until you reach the input type setting (often marked as InP, Sn, or similar). Use the arrow (▲/▼) buttons to select your thermocouple type. Common thermocouple types include: 0 for J-type 1 for K-type 2 for T-type Also check if the thermocouple is ok i had a case that the top round sensor part of the thermocouple broke off and it the result was very high temperature readings in room temperature. For now RU-vid comments is the only way to communicate with me :) Gr. Jim
@@fixmyappjim Okay, so I'm going to do the setup and calibration today. So I don't even think the wiring was wrong. It was probably just a mental error, as I didn't pay any more attention to the calibration. I'll get back to you this evening after work. One more small question: Does the light of the bottom heater SSR have to be on after switching between B1234 and Run or only after the respective profile shown? I would be pleased to receive an answer. Thank you very much!
Hi the LED on the bottom SSR will only be on when you press RUN beceause then the OUT2 led on the PC410 is ON and also OUT1 on the C100 is ON. The switches B1234 will not effects the LED's only RUN switch. Success. Gr Jim
Hi the cause could be a wake up signals is turning it on. There are 3 wake-up signals one is fromt he touch screen and the other is from the wifi ic and last one is from the primary power management ic. I heard that a faulty primary power management ic can cause this issue maybe you can replace / reflow it. Gr. Jim
Thank you! Mine are only off less than 10% on most of them so I won't worry too much about that. The resistance measurements on the apu concern me on mine. Not sure if it's fried yet as I've got to test the battery properly first.
Great video! Some of my diode readings are off. How many counts or % += would be acceptable before a cause of concern? Im using the USBC connector as my ground at all times.
Thank you for watching. It depends on the multimeter, temperature etc. I usually check if a components has a low or very high diode readings if it is more then 1V difference i would check that area. Gr. Jim
Hello Jimmy and first of all a big thank you for your videos. I have a problem and maybe you can give me a hint. I have a mini pc with yellow light when power cord is plugged in and when press the power button i get a blue light for a second with fanspin. Do you have an idea how or where to look for the problem on the motherboard? Visual inspection and meassuring didnt give me any clues. :-/ Is there any way to get in contact with you?
Hi if you have fan spin i would check the VRM sections of the CPU there could be a short or an power good / enable signal missing on one of the voltage regulator or pwm controller ic.
Great tutorial. I've recently bought an Xbox One where it's sync button on the side doesn't work at all....thankfully the eject button and power button still works but I'm definitely gonna replace it with new ones.
@@fixmyappjim You’re right. It is the tactile switch is the culprit. When I took it apart and have a good look at it. Somehow the tactile switch has some brown stuff on it that looks like rust or solder lead + paste ? No idea how it end up like that, probable the previous owner work? No matter, I’m replacing the whole cable anyway.
Jimmy, my Switch Lite was showing no left d-pad and the left stick would only move vertically (no X-axis), so I figured it could be an issue related to the daughterboard connector. I disassembled the board, soldered a new connector onto the main board and now it won't power on, charge or display an image or play any sound. Upon plugging it into the wall, it' sits @ 0.41A and then changes to 0.43A, and it keeps cycling and nothing else happens. What do you think my issue could be?
Hi, you should first try to redo your previous repair attempt and check if there is no short or bad connections. in my experience the 0.41 A is emmc related but in your case i suspect you did something that caused it :( Gr. Jim
What a fantastic video! Please can you tell me what sort of resistance to ground the capacitors under the APU should be? Nobody seems to give much information, other than saying the whole APU area is very low impedance. The input 12V rail on my board is not shorted, but I'm concerned about the coils on the APU side and the APU capacitors..... Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Good job Jim. A sincere congratulations. Thanks for sharing. All the best. PS: (0:57) Broken plastic cover? Loctite 480 black color (original if possible Jim, industry standard). Please look at loctite on Wikipedia.
Hi Jimmy. I would have bet that the cable (from the headphones to the Conn input) had no continuity. That's what I get for guessing. Thank you very much for sharing. All the best from Mexico. PS: There was a time when the many Internet cafes in my small town rented PCs to access the Web, so I checked their headsets frequently. Now every family has at least one personal PC in their home. I miss those times, another way of saying it, all current Audio/Video communication is by cell phone.
I liked. Here in North America we would have replaced the entire little speaker saying: we'll fix it later and most likely it will NOT be yes unfortunately. Time is money. Thanks for sharing. Greetings.
If you have these switch still at your table. Please measure in the near of the nintendo HAC Chip the caps. I find out, that a fault HAC Chip can also results in a BSOD. Replace him.
One thing missing from your Nintendo Switch Lite videos is an in-depth on the 29-pin connector. It'd be nice to get to know where those pins lead for a precise repair. For example, I got a Switch Lite which has an interesting fault, the left stick only moves vertically, not horizontally. So, instead of reworking the entire connector, I could focus on the pin that's used to listen to the left stick's horizontal input and see what's wrong with it. Anyway, keep up the great work.
@@fixmyappjim I'm sorry, I should've been more specific. I meant the 29-pin connector *from the daughterboard.* You did mention the pins from the main board connector, but you left out the pins from the daughterboard connector.
Small update: I have dismantled my old IR6500, removed all cables to open it up. Ordered new electronics except for the two controllers. Prepared the housing and had plates made for the top and front. All that's missing now is the power supply, the GX16 and the wiring for the fan/LED and B1/2 as well as B3/4 and the thermal couplers. So far, so good, but I noticed something little. In the middle of the video, you have switched the blue cables for the two controllers to terminal N on the far left. You could also add the Anderson adapters in the video description. I have forgotten the stop button, but it should be possible to replace it with the test button of the circuit breaker, if necessary I simply switch off the station. So far so good and I hope that the remaining parts will arrive soon. Many thanks for the great video and the very relaxed approach to wiring the station. Best regards from Germany 😄
How would I approach this from 120v? Are you on a dedicated circuit that can provide a lot of current? I had 5 bottom heater elements at 110v/600w and wanted to use the IR6500 on it as well.
Hi i would check or search for the temperature controllers that support 110V and also the IR ceramic heaters those are the most important parts that uses the outlet power. Gr. Jim
I've watched nearly all your videos now, and just wanted to say thank you- the way you present everything is exactly what I was looking for in a tutorial channel! Looking forward to watching your future uploads!
Did you need to connect the line to the apu below the processor or in the video images you can see the line to which you had to make the jumper instead of sending it to the emmc line it goes to the apu line
I could not find the copper trace from the apu to the emmc that is why i made the jumper instead but if would never worked as there was a hole in the APU :)
What an AMAZING explanation!!!! all thanks and love from a fellow hobbiest :> But i was wondering do i solder TEA2016AAT and it works automatically or is there some mods i have to do for it to work like the original ic ?
@@fixmyappjim I replaced the wi-fi chip in my grandsons OLED unit but in doing so a couple components went into the 9th dimension lol they are blue with a dot on one end. Do you know what they are or where I can buy them? I am desperate to get them so my grandson can have his game.
Hi Graig, because there are no schematics we dont know the values. For the small smd parts without any markings the only way is to get them is from a donor mainboard. Maybe you can buy a broken mainboard on the second hand market like ebay. Gr Jim
Hi Craig, i only have one oled board which i need to analyse the circuit. What you can do is get a normal donor Nintendo Switch Mainboard and check the wifi section. The layout is almost the same and also the used components are the same. Check this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xx4YM6cRgGM.html and check if your missing components are there if yes then you can use the V1, V2 Switch mainboard for parts. Gr. Jim
First thank you for the very detailed and amazing video, I have an oled swithc fully functional that doesn't charge with dock or official charger but it does with my phone one, what I should check based on your experience? can it be just a faulty usb port?
Hi i would first measure all usb-c pin's of the port, if all ok then my first suspect would be to replace m92 if still the same replace BQ IC. Also check the PI3USB and the filters on the USB data lines. Gr. JIm
I have a similar issue on an identical unit but no power rails are running no short on the 19v though - any suggestions where it would be best to inject power? and how much
Thanks for making the PDF available. One item that seems trivial but isn't so easy to source with limited information - enclosure. You are repurposing a HTPC ATX case which is fine. But there is no simple standard for this type of case and therefore to source something suitable for the project, and to minimize the amount of modifications, I think some additional information could be useful. Comes to mind - a) suggested dimensions (I could do a mockup with the components as an alternative) b) needs to be horizontal with front panel taking most of the mods c) no internal structures or at least easy to remove without impacting structural strength. If the case you used has a brand/model maybe it helps to search for something similar. I could probably design a two chassis alternative which could be useful for taking up space differently or for storage, but this would be another project.
Hi, Thank you for your feedback. I agree that is why i only give the dimensions of the bottom heater. The enclosure choice is for every user different and they have different requirements that is why i did not go in detail about the enclosure but the focus was more on the wiring and products needed en how to configure it. Gr. Jim
It was much better in the old days where you had simple linear transformer with a fuse and a capacitor, it requires master degree to understand smps circuitry
