Car repair, home repair, and other DIY-related videos from a nerdy, average guy who tends to overthink, analyze, and attempt to "optimize" most endeavors.
For future reference the drivers side is the left side and the passenger is the right side - universal tech term so you don’t confuse the noobs! Great video! Thanks
Indeed. Good point. I guess I might have made it potentially confusing by referring to the sides of the catch can itself when looking at it head on while assembling it. Thank you!
@OptimizedDIY it's your truck and not my problem. But I don't go past 8000km/5000miles. I don't care what the manufacturer or oil claims. The lab results and real world examples say otherwise. Remember "manufacturer recommended" really means "guaranteed till the warranty is gone" then they'll happily sell you a new truck or engine.
I certainly don't see more than an ounce or 2 in my catch can for the entire oil change. I do however get a ridiculous amount of water vapor/moisture during the winter. (That may not be a problem for you) so then I empty it monthly.
@@craigquannthat’s not how that works. Agree that 7500 miles is a longer OCI, but has nothing to do with PCV bringing oil into the intake. It’s entirely dependent on the strength of the PCV and driving habits (i.e more high intake manifold vacuum = more oil in catch can). Quality of oil can also increase oil vapors in PCV (look at oil flash point).
What do you think of this new line of oil catch cans from K&N? Buy this product here: amzn.to/3RKouye Watch my installation video here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MV2lKieJPDw.html And see what it captured in my 1,000 mile update video here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-y9rT_j-sIsQ.html
Do you have an oil catch can or are you thinking about buying one? Get this product here: amzn.to/3vzwzxo See my 1,000 mile update video here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-y9rT_j-sIsQ.html See my initial unboxing overview video for this product here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5ScoJh_lOnk.html
Full synthetic. Again, that's the manufacturer-recommended service interval assuming the oil life computer doesn't have you do it sooner. Mercedes recommends 13k miles. If it's good enough for them, it's good enough for me. The truck has an electronic oil life indicator as a percentage from the computer based on driving habits. Doing it any more often than that is likely just wasting money. If you think you know more than the chemical engineers and car manufacturers, more power to ya. Thanks for the comment.
@@adzz8012 First, no they don't. Both my Mercedes and this Silverado take about 8 quarts. Secondly, capacity/quantity is irrelevant to the fluid spec and quality of the oil, i.e. the lubrication and protection it's providing. You can't just double the quantity and get twice the life out of the oil. That's not how it works. The point remains - if someone thinks 7,500 miles is too long between oil changes, they simply don't understand modern full synthetics. Period. And for anyone who doubts that and subscribes to the outdated "every 3k miles" rule of thumb (I hope you don't), I'd encourage you to use a high quality full synthetic like a Mobil 1 or Amsoil and then send your used oil off to get tested, which I've done. "Oil is cheaper than a motor." I also hope you're not implying that waiting 7,500 miles for a full synthetic oil change is going to kill the motor, because that would be a silly proposition.
@@OptimizedDIY is your merc the v8? Most mercedes i service take about 9-10 litres, on average. Ls motors take under 6. Well in australia they do. L98 Ls3 ls7 all take about 6 litres give or take. Some bmw's take up to 12, and also eurotrash has higher spec tolerances inbtheir engines. Ive always been in the camp of if in doubt change it out. Long chain hydrocarbons take x amount of time to breakdown, heat cycles will do that. Full synthetics take a bit longer to breakdown but not twice as long. 7.5k miles IS a long time between services for mineral and semi oils, as for 13k mile intervals I find that the end user thinks this means they can delay their service period longer, which is bad. The marketing dept and peoples stupidity is mostly why I say that. Experiance has taught me that i care more about their car than they usually do 😅
@@OptimizedDIY we do 10k kilometer or 9 month service intervals normally here. I do 5k kilometers on mine cos i get oil and filters at cost price haha and i own too many cars for my own good 😅 turbo cars should be changed earlier do to build up in oil lines being undesireable. I thinks its necessary for 5-7k kilometer oil changes in those vehicles.
You're watching it - capturing the oil blowby you see that would otherwise be recirculated back into the air intake, so less carbon buildup in the cylinders, which should extend engine life.
What do you think of these results from the K&N oil catch can on my Silverado 5.3? How do they compare to yours? Watch the full video here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-y9rT_j-sIsQ.html Get this product here: amzn.to/3vzwzxo
What do you think of these results from the K&N oil catch can on my Silverado 5.3? How do they compare to yours? FYI, you can get this catch can here: amzn.to/3vzwzxo
Tbh I would love to integrate to my detail business here in Mexico, but they are super expensive, like 35USD and the normal price for a detail is around 75-100USD
Why is every company naming their product “ceramic “ when it doesn’t contain any ceramic? Furthermore It’s impossible to dissolve ceramic into a solution. Crazy SH#T marketing tactics that consumers believe.
Thank you for the videos. Overall, you have the best "how to" videos I've seen yet and I have watched a lot of them. I just bought a 2015 Silverado 5.3 w/ 93k and besides purchasing an AFM/DFM plug in disabler, was to buy a catch can. This looks easy enough.
That’s an expensive hot air intake you installed. If it is an aftermarket Air Intake and doesn’t have an enclosed filter box then I don’t want it. I monitor my IAT temps. Mine never goes above 120 degrees. With this setup you’re running close to 160 degrees IAT’s.
I have a 2017 Yukon, 41000 miles and the whole idea of a catch can on these direct injection engines is to decrease the amount of buildup on the intake valves. What you catch in the can is not going to make its way onto the intake valves. Does it eliminate carbon build up on the intake valves completely? I doubt that, but any amount you eliminate passing over them has to be a plus. Before direct injection the valves would get washed by the fuel passing over them into the cylinders. I am curious to see what the new Chevy/GMC Sixth Generation Small Block induction system will be like. Hopefully they deal with the carbon buildup on the intake valves. We should find out this summer if the newly designed Silverado and Serria has the Sixth Generation Small Block. Looking forward to hearing about this engine. Thanks for the very informative video. The K&N Catch Can looks like a well put together product, should work really well.
@@OptimizedDIY Great, I will be looking forward to your 1000-mile update. I installed a UPR catch can last year. I don't drive the Yukon during the winter months, so all I find in the can is a small amount of what looks like oil. If you live in a colder climate in the winter, you will find a milkier substance in the can. Not sure if this is caused by condensation in the engine or from the heat of the can when engine is off, and condensation within the can itself mixing with the dropped contents. Catch cans do work, and I would recommend one on any direct injection engine. They should have come from the factory with one. In my Yukon, I purchased some transmission rubber lines and some OEM quick release fittings to be able to mount my catch can in the area where an extra battery would have been placed. Added some plastic loom on the lines and a few clips to make the install look like a factory catch can. Turned out really well, and access to the can is much easier to reach. Those quick release factory fittings are not cheap. If I could, I would have used the ones that came with the shorter lines, but the UPR catch can came with an upgrade braded line and there was no way to remove the quick release fittings without doing damage to them. With the longer transmission lines and fittings, I added about 120 dollars more to the install. Oh well, it looks good and that makes it worth the extra costs to me. The main reason I did the change was because the set up with the short lines were in the way of the oil fill cap on the valve cover. If you have a newer truck, your set up may be different. On my 2017 5.3 Yukon and the catch can mount on the fire wall brace bolt, the lines were in the way of the oil fill cap. Anyway, hope your K&N catch can works well for you. I am sure it will, K&N makes great products.
Motorplatt data sheet says it is slippery, which suggests silicone. I couldn’t find a list of specific ingredients, so I would avoid this product for use in an engine bay. Many sensors hate silicone.
Thanks for the comment. A few thoughts: 1. As I noted in the video, Motorplast is not very slippery at all. 2. Slippery doesn't automatically mean silicone. You're making a lot of leaps in logic here. 3. Koch-Chemie is a reputable, premium brand. Motorplast is literally designed as an engine bay dressing. That is its only purpose. 4. We could contact Koch-Chemie and ask them, but these guys say it does not contain silicone: autobuff.com.au/products/koch-chemie-motorplast-engine-bay-dressing I don't know the exact ingredients either, but let's not speculate and draw faulty conclusions from assumptions.
Not really. That rubber gasket seats against the underside of the hood when closed so imagine that little corner is basically enclosed when the hood is shut. But even if it gets a little water on it, that's not an issue. The filter is also oiled. As for dirt, the point of any filter is to filter out dirt; all filters of all kinds - even the restrictive OEM systems - come in contact with quite a lot of dust and debris.
The best way if you can take the throttle body off and clean it just a connector and 4 bolts some are harder to get to and some have coolant lines running threw them but most you can just take off and you can actually really clean it I personally use a toothbrush they sell brushes made for cleaning throttle body’s but they are a little harsh on them but everyone does it differently as long as it’s done right I don’t care how it’s done
Totally agree! If I had just bought a used car with 100k miles and wasn't sure if the throttle body had ever been cleaned and I wanted to do a deep clean, I'd definitely take it off. For a quick maintenance cleaning every oil change, I'm not taking it off.
For some cars you can't touch the throttle body valve because you can break the mechanism that controls it, check repair manuals before doing this + after cleaning some cars require adjusting the valve (using a special adapter of course)
I've heard this and yes, absolutely always best to be safe, err on the side of caution, and check manuals, but I've been doing it this way for nearly 20 years on all my different cars I've owned (including Mercedes), and all the certified mechanics I've talked to do it this way too, so probably a little overblown.
2016 F150 5.0L. I purchased an air oil separator. The hoses in the kit won't fit correctly. The 1st hose is double the size needed. Hose needs to be bent like an S. The 2d hose ( out hose) Needs a 90-degree angle to fit around the hose and gas line. Factory hose is 90 degrees.
Subtle? I think that was a pretty throaty difference there for just a cold air intake my guy. Thanks for the install video too. Super easy, quick and no nonsense talking in between just the info I needed
2014+ GM LT-based engines are direct injected. The back side of the intake valves get caked with carbon deposits from oil vapors in the PCV system due to the absence of port injectors continually spraying and washing the valves down with fuel. Over time the deposits get severe enough to affect performance. A catch can prevents that by forcing the oil vapors to coalesce and collect in the can rather than going into the intake manifold and eventually intake valve ports. My 2013 GMC Sierra 6.0 also has a catch can that gets filled up over time, so it's beneficial for port-injected engines as well.
I’ve applied to a vehicle here in the Mexican Caribbean which has a higher UV index than anywhere in the US. It has lasted almost 2 years ( finally showing signs of wear after 18 months ) I have used Dlux, Gtechniq C4 and Qyeon Q2 Trim. This lasts as longer if not longer. I was rather suprised and pleased@@OptimizedDIY
After watching this video, I checked out the channel looking for the install video. Notice you’re a new channel, videos are informative and well put together! Love it dude! 147th subscriber earned my friend.
I'm thankful for the information and the link to Motoplast. Honestly, your engine is hiding behind behind a lot of plastic. I would think you still need to clean your actual engine.
Probably, but this is what anyone is going to see when opening the hood. This just happens to be the engine bay on this Lexus. I opened the hood, that's what I was presented with, and I cleaned it. This wasn't my car so I wouldn't have felt comfortable just removing panels at my discretion anyway. Maybe I'll do another video on a different car with "actual engine" parts and no plastic covers.
