I have one Odroid H3+ with a single 2.5 SSD running off one of the 15V PSUs without problem. Multiple 3.5 HDDs are more likely to require the larger PSU.
Thanks for the video. I'm on the fence about the ultra, struggling to find the itx kit in the UK. Also I'm not sure if I understand the power reqs, would the 19v psu be OK for 2 3.5" hdds? Please test power reqs
The H4 can be purchased from www.odroid.co.uk in the UK. Yes the 19v PSU should be fine for 2 3.5" HDDs. I intend to run 4 3.5" HDDs off the H4 Ultra and a 19V PSU.
This comparison makes no sense. We don't need to run performance tests to know that a newer CPU will beat an old CPU, a dedicated graphics card will beat integrated graphics, and an m.2 NVME drive will beat a SATA SSD. These things are all common sense. It would have been more valuable to just take the H4 Ultra and do some real world tasks. At least remove the graphics card from the H3+ and swap in an m.2 to make it more apples to apples. Also, why are all your videos so short?
I did get several request to run benchmarks and the comparison with a previously built machine was to highlight that the H3+ models are still very useful when expanded. Once the H4 Ultra NAS is complete I can compare it with the H3+ NAS. As to video length, for the Hardware videos, they have ranged from 1 to 20 minutes, with the average being 5 minutes in length. Long enough to contain useful information on the hardware and short enough for people to watch in their busy lives.
@@custompchardware Do you think that showing power consumption in the bios actually helps anyone ? This thing draws 5W in idle with 3 disks when ASPM is set properly in the bios, but you overlooked that part. Useless videos.
Everyone is of course entitled to their opinion. Personally I build and use computers to perform tasks, so as they are never idle for long, how much power they draw when busy is quite relevant.
Windows, like all other OS's, have evolved over time, so there are likely to be parts that are less than ideal. Short of writing your own OS from scratch, which some people have done, we just have to find a way to work with what's there.
Nice. I'm considering this. It's all Odroid here. But I don't believe the PSU does 1.3 watt on its own, there must be a mistake. I tried some random smaller PSU's here together, but I never saw the slightest milliwatt. It's important to me because I run SBCs on solar power, but there's always a dark cloud above me.
Even though the Odroid isn't "powered on" it's still consuming a small amount of power, if only to detect when you press the power button as these are momentary power switches. The little red led on the motherboard is a dead giveaway. The power supply itself, when connected to a computer, will also consume a small amount of power unless the PSU has a physical off switch. I too run computers off solar batteries.
I ordered it on the 18th April and it arrived 3rd May. It would have arrived on the 1st May, but I asked the courier to delay. So quite a fast turnaround as they weren't in stock when I placed the order.
Hi! Thanks for sharing! I accidentally lost of my screws, and I was wondering if you happen to know what the name of the kind of screw is at 3:35? Do you happen to know the name and length of that kind of screw?
As the heatsink is fitted at the factory, I didn't have the option of reorienting it. However the fan in this position keeps the heat from building up. The fan is not on constantly.
I don't need to use the build in speakers, right? I just want this little guy to be able to control Apple Music, Discord etc, so i still can get the sound through my Sound system, or?
No you don't need to use the built in speakers. Many monitors come with build in speakers but they are usually very small and you're always better using larger more capable speakers.
Actually, the dimensions of H2+, H3, and H3+ are 110mm x 110mm, while the H4 family is 120mm x 120mm. Also, Hardkernal has no excuse not to include wifi on these SBCs when they provide 4 SATA ports and a mini-ITX conversion kit.
Yes those are the sizes of the H2 & H3 models, the H4 needed to be larger to accommodate the extra display port and Sata ports. Hardkernel appear to have decided that multiple 2.5Gb ethernet ports was their favoured direction. You can always add WIFI using one of the USB ports. Having WIFI on the H4 base model would have been a nice touch using the board space freed up by not having SATA ports on it. But as that would have meant a board redesign, perhaps we'll need to wait for the H5.
I tend to sit them on a 19inch shelf and secure them with a 3D printed bracket to stop the frame moving around. The 3D bracket isn't load bearing so it works reasonably well.
Well I'd suggest a metal bracket that could be load bearing bolted to the Makerbeam frame and the 19inch rack frame. I haven't come across something that would suffice yet, but I'll keep an eye out.
Your idle power consumption is way high. It is either not idleing properly or something is not optimal. I had this too at first, the issue was ram related. After adjusting I idle at 2W like odroid suggests on their website.
Nice project. If you position the fan towards the fins of the CPU cooler, cooling should be much more effective, and one fan between your two H3s will be enough to cool both computers.
I've taken this approach, with the fans, for the clustered Odroids, as all of them are switched on at the same time. But these two are not always switched on at the same time. The latest project though has a Noctua fan immediately above the heatsink as it's CPU runs on turbo mode, which does generate a fair amount of additional heat.
the size and design seems ideal for me, but the fact they recommend such a low resolution, makes me think it's not good enough for me, could anyone recommend a better version of this size and shape?
This monitor can run at 1920 * 1080 , but of course since the screen is physically small, the text displayed at that resolution is also quite small. So dependant on your eyesight it may or may not be suitable for you at this resolution.
You may have to opt for a monitor with a larger physical size, perhaps a 15.6 inch? I've reviewed the UPERFECT Portable 15.6 Monitor FHD 1080P, I now have three of these.
@custompchardware nah this size is perfect for me, I am basically looking for best monitor this shape and size, so was asking if anyone knows better one
I haven't tried this myself, but from what I've read it doesn't. Using the NVME port to provide multiple SATA ports would be ideal for a NAS. I'll keep looking to see if anyone solves this though.
On the keyboard there is a button between the USB port and the on/off. Hold it in till the Bluetooth LED on the keyboard flashes, and then attempt to add a Bluetooth keyboard on your computer. It should display the keyboard and ask you to ender a number on the Bluetooth keyboard. Once entered you will be paired.
@@custompchardware Its really a great piece of querky keyboard, very handy and versatile. Love the buttons, which has an old school feel to it like the apple keyboards. The only two things I just have to criticize about this keyboard is, the hinge system, as it sound very squeeky indeed and not using a usb c as charging port.
Yes having a usb c port for charging would have been handy, not all manufacturers have moved over to that yet. I can't say that the hinge on the keyboard I have makes any noticeable noise, perhaps a small drop of silicone oil on the hinges will help?
Hey I purchased this monitor and when I first turned it on I got a message saying burn in mode and I can't get it out of this mode and it is just flashing colors please help
I got my full kit from Mr. Cousins this past Monday. ( 3/4/2024) Including the SC722, SC721, SC702, SC712, SC719, SC704, SC407, SC406, SC303 and of course the SC727 RTC. All soldered up and assembled. All working great. I flashed one of the ROMs to RomWBW Ver 3.5-dev 18. I am currently booting into Z-System on the SD and have the timestamping working as well. I am trying to decide if I want to go to NZ-Com or just stay Z-System. I have done some tinkering with Assembly using the old HiTech C and ZDE editor all local. Although fun to do it all on the system perhaps it is time to dig into z88dk and cross assemble.
That sounds like you have a great system going there. I haven't tried NZ-Com yet, but it's a logical progression from the Z-System supplied on the ROMs. I'll be interested to hear how you get on.
I don't, at the moment, have the equipment to measure just how efficient this power supply is. This 500W all in one PSU replaced a 400W two part PSU. The 400W PSU was coping well with the needs of the computer, so I've no worries that the 500W will supply all the power this NAS will ever need. And the new PSU takes up less space thereby improving the airflow in the rack.
Why are you calling 1010 t-slot hollow aluminium extrusion as "makerbeam" ? It's a commodity product. They are great but I don't understand why a brand name ? There is no quality gradient here, they are standards compliant or they are defective. This brand here does not mean a particular secret sauce recipe ... Does this brand actually extrudes these aluminium in the UK, or are these rebadged chinese import ?
The comments are right that you could put these kits together yourself, but I personally would rather buy a kit that has all the work done for me in sourcing, accessory parts, etc. etc. So basically, great video, I'll look into snagging one of your kits. The "Nano" line is really interesting to see, would love to learn more. Good work bringing tinkering and such to the masses!
Makerbeam is produced by a company in the Netherlands, feel free to go onto their website. www.makerbeam.com/ where you can buy kits with all the parts you'll ever need.
:D Can you send me a bucket full? (j/k). I never had Maccano as a child but always wanted it. I think they made it plastic then stopped making it now or something. I can see they do have website but I like these aluminium struts and screw slots. It does something for my inner child I still retain. I am 42. Maybe my inner self, actually. Maybe it's inherinted through the ages. I still want to play. :D
I don't think any respectable manufacturers are taking what is practically a commodity and selling it as their product with little added value. I would say you're closer to a drop shipper than a manufacturer @@custompchardware
to be fair to this channel, i did just go and try to find 10x10mm extrusion to pedantically compare prices, and it isnt easy to find any, and the ends of sections are at least pre tapped. A little expensive compared to more common extrusion sizes but I could see it being useful for specific jobs.
I don't manufacture or sell this product. Makerbeam is produced by a company in the Netherlands, feel free to go onto their website. www.makerbeam.com/
It depends on the motherboard you are fitting. For boards with memory or M2 SSD's underneath the board I tend to go with a longer standoff - 2cm - to allow better airflow.
I get it now. The the HDPLEX 500W DC ATX still needs the 330W external power adapter. However, is it the wattage output of the 330W external power adapter that the HDPLEX 500W HIFI DC-ATX needs? Or is it its voltage output?
I don't have one of the HDPLEX 500W HiFi DC-ATX PSUs, but you are correct in that it needs an external AC adapter - HDPlex recommend the 330W Dell LA330PM160. That AC adapter outputs 19.5V and 16.9A which is quite common as an input for the HDPlex ATX PSUs. If you're look to use an alternative external AC adapter, you should go for one that can deliver 19.5V and 16.9A. While the AIO 500w HDPlex PSU is slightly larger it keeps everything inside the case, which is my preference for these builds.
