Washington Street Studios exists to provide ceramic artists an affordable, fully equipped studio space for aspiring, emerging and established artists to share their creative energy and knowledge in an environment designed to support the ceramic artist. We believe the sharing of creative energy and knowledge will improve the quality of our art and increase the appreciation of art within our community. We are striving to create an environment where the arts are shared and appreciated. We want to grow as a family of artists and contribute to our community.
The Potters' Round Table is one of our steps to share our passion for the ceramic arts. On the second Saturday of every month we offer facility as a venue for artists of all medium to share their creative energy and knowledge with other artists and art lovers. Each Potters' Round Table focuses on the ceramic arts with monthly topics specific to potters.
We will post videos of the Round Table topics and other videos of interest.
A million thanks to you. And Q: When used on their own, do oxides and/or stains add texture to the piece like slip does (sit on it so you can feel the transition between the stained and unstained areas), or is the transition completely smooth? And thank you again for amazing teaching.
Oh my gosh….beginner potter here, still trying to get some basics of forming the pieces down….already confused/frustrated by what i don’t understand about glazing (and the chemical reaction that ruined a piece recently!!!). This series is the answer to my desire to know WHY????? For everything!! (My poor teachers!)
I love your videos. Thank you for sharing such detailed information. As a newbie to the world of ceramics I am taking my first step into glaze mixing. Many of the recipes available online and in books provide ingredients in % or grams. I plan on only mixing small batches. Is there a method of determining total dry material weight for a quart batch?
With blistering.. is the solution lower cone? I use stoneware for cone 6. So if I did let cone wouldn't that mean the clay would not be vitrified ? Can blistering be from too thick application alone?
This was a wonderful lesson. I don't think I could have gotten more from a college class. I look forward to listening to more of Phil's "lectures" and having just found this channel am sorry to read he passed away.
Just found you all. These videos are amazing. I am beginning a pottery journey. Retiring from 25 years as a fine art printmaker and teacher of. These are filling me in on so much. Thankyou.
Thank you I have been seeking how to get better at brushing on detail (sweeping lines). Silly but it is all about confidence and I appreciate hearing that. I will practice. Some potters haver beautiful lines. I can practice on paper first. I love your videos.
I have a question, If I get the glaze off with my finger (goes down to bare clay) how can I patch? Every time I brush or drip more glaze on it crawls. Is there a way to get the glaze to cover without washing it all off and starting over? Thanks I love your videos!
I was two lectures into wood kiln functioning before i realized he was saying 'ware chamber' - as in where the clay water is fired - and not 'werechamber' - though the metamorphosis is as extreme
Thank you for this. It’s hard to find this info. Going to try a black underglaze with copper oxide on the rim, then fully dunked in clear glaze, and fired in cone 6 reduction. Hoping to get a black and metallic copper effect. Only now I’m worried about the clear not absorbing and the glaze piling. I suppose a black stained clay would be best for the desired effect
Great Video. I understand that Edit Heath of Heath Ceramics developed a Eutectic cone 07 glaze and clay body many years ago. It was suppose to be as hard as stoneware. Does anyone know what a cone 07 Eutectic glaze or Clay body recipe with the hardness of cone10 might look like?
Just to provide a bit more information about the firebrick if anyone needs it. When he says "insulating firbrick" this is the "soft" firebrick used for forges sold online, that are very expensive. They start at 2300 degrees rated and go up to 2600 and higher. They don't absorb heat, but are NOT structural bricks. You can break them apart, even with your hands. The other "yellow bricks" (most used here) are the standard "hard" 9 x 4.5 x 2.5 inch firebricks sold anywhere that sells brick and sells concrete block. These are about $2.20 per brick... cheaper than the "high heat soft reflective brick," which are also the same exact dimensions.
Thank you! So helpful. Question , how do you provide air to the ring pilot burner. You show a diagram of it but not show photo or explanation. Thank you so very much.
Hi.first of all tnx for the great work you're doing. Second is there any way that I can have the handouts(I presume I is a printed instructions or sth) for free? I live in Iran and because of the sanctions I can't pay for everything that I should pay.
