Everyone loves how well new vehicles and equipment perform.
But sadly, for most of us, that doesn’t last. That is why, 32 years ago, I founded Cost Effective Maintenance-because I not only wanted everything to keep that as-new performance, but to enable vehicles to run even better and smoother than new. We’ve achieved that, and today, we are still as excited as ever. The products we’ve developed help you reduce your operating costs, while getting better performance and efficiency with less stress to engines, gearboxes, diffs, hydraulics, final drives and much more.
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I have always emptied a couple of litres of oil out of the sump, topped up with diesel fuel, run 5 minutes then drain the lot. Add new oil and filter. No more blowby.
Hi mate, The FTC Decarbonizer is the product added to the fuel. Carbon deposits are burnt away at time of combustion and through exhaust areas. Turbos are cleaned up pretty easily. Cheers
@@costeffectivemaintenance4614 ah fair enough i was thinking bout the intake side of the turbo. cheers ive just treated three of my cars a 350 chev carby a 3.0 v6 toyota and audi q7 3.0 v6 tdi the chevy doesnt ping any more and feels much smoother the toyota is smoother and starts easier both after only 100 klms the audi hasnt been driven enough yet to tell cheers
Iv been using your products for years and tell everyone who cares about their cars to check out your website . This looks to be another great product keep up the good work guys cheers.
Thanks for making this video. Very helpful. I was looking for info on that gel when this video came up. I asked for help in Bunnings for a rust gel. The shop assistant seemed annoyed that I was asking for a type of product that they don't sell. They only had rust converters. I have a rust converter by SCA (Bought at Supercheap Auto) which works very well for many tasks but I also need something to actually remove rust from certain objects and this gel looks like the thing I need.
Can I just drive to town and back whilst the flush is in the engine instead of idling for 40 minutes, or does higher revs cause damage whilst flushing?
Thanks for the video - never seen it done this way but certainly makes a lot of sense. I have a 2014 VW Passat Alltrack diesel with 210k kms on it. Only put about 30k on the odo since ownership and it runs pretty well but has had some lengthy gaps in service history. I like the idea of placing the flush in with clean oil but i'm nervous putting any old cheapie oil in to rinse the flush through as VW are very specific on the oil to use in the engine i.e VW004/007 type. I'd prefer not to have shell out the extra $$ on the correct oil and just go a cheap semi synthetic for the rinse but don't want to damage the motor. What oil do you recommend to use for the engine rinse/flush process - semi synthetic ok just get a similar weight? Or should I just use the correct oil for the rinse? Cheers!
Hey mate; Used your flush on my 2012 Subaru wrx and used a 5w40 cheap oil along with the flush for 35 mins. Was using 10w50 before, too thick since I don’t track it just street.. Came out not black but a dark greenish / gunk colour. Put 10w40 back in and let me tell you; cars running a bit smoother, quieter and tad more performance. WRX was using 1 litre a fortnight prior to the flush, now it’s slowed down drastically but not completely since I’m leaking from my rock cover gasket. But this shit works reducing blowby, cleaning the engine out and restoring factory performance. Super happy boys thanks again👍👍
Warning! Use as directed! Do not go cheap, and use with old oil and filter! Use new oil, even if cheap, and filter! I went cheap, as I just put in a lot of money in engine work. So, I added the Oil additive to oil I was going to be changing out. Ran it for 45 minutes at 1200 rpms, as directed. Then I idled it, while waiting to get in shop at normal idle. My oil pressure warning went on, oil pressure dropped to 0, shut engine off warning came on. They drained oil. It was sludge! Pulled apart oil filter. Gunked up... threw in new, but cheap oil, let run 10 minutes. It looked like sludge. Black sludge! That stuff cleans out every thing! Definitely use new oil, not old! My mistake. I figured it was expensive, especially with FTC Decarbonizer I added to fuel, and the Valvoline Restore I bought for the oil change at $85 per gallon! Well, cheapest oil was $25 per gallon, as of recent, so I went cheap. Don't do it! Change Crank Case filter too! So, in went the Restore oil, and hopefully that cleans out whatever is left, along with using the FTC, and in 12-15k, going to straight Valvoline Premium Blue. The mechanic dropped the pan, checked the bearings, liners, etc, and said it looked real clean!
What is the difference between rust remover, rust inhibitor and rust converter? Some rust is seeping through the paint in my patio. Which product will be best for that?
I'll bet if you had someone revving the engine a bit while recording this, you could have made it totally impossible to hear you, rather than just difficult.
My car has blow by, with smoke, I think from washed rings when over fuelling occurred, would this help stop the smoke and blowby or do I need to change rings and possibly/or valve seals? Hardly any smoke from exhaust just mainly blowby and performance is almost if not completely normal, I think oil is contaminated with fuel also, diesel.
same problem here, caused by leaky injector. Wish I had been aware and would have changed injector sooner. No smoke, just slightly down performance and a bit extra oil use, but not terrible. Opinion i had from two garages is likely wont get worse, just live with it. One said flush wont help wear and the other said not to do flushes on modern vehicles, it creates more problems than it solves. They used to do them so no doubt broke somebodys engine. To live with it, it needs extra servicing requirements (aside from 1-2k interim oil topup) because blowby sends more oil vapour back into air intake via the PCV breather. This accumulates gunk in the inlet manifold, which affects engine eventually. So once a year or 10k miles learn how to remove air manifold pipe and spray loads of carb cleaner get rags in there at end of long screw drivers to scrape it all off. If too many gunk bits are left lying in the intake manifold it can sometimes get in the engine and cause bit of rough running for 100 miles or so till burns off. Possibly the extra oil vapor will gunk up EGR quicker as well, not sure, many cars those are straightforward to clean. Others not so.. And in general keep an eye on leaky injector smoke and dont expect as much from the car in terms of pushing it hard, its already worn like a 140k mile motor.
Hi Chris, can you send us through some more informtion about the vehicle. Firstly I would get an oil change done to remove any possible diesel contamination. I would not be considering a rebuild just yet .
My 7.3 power stroke has 262k miles. It does not burn any oil but does have a decent amount of blow by. Do you recommend this product for my situation? Thanks
I would probably start with the FTC Decarbonizer. But it would be good to get some more information from you first. Has the blowby just started or is this something that has gradually increased over the years ? Feel free to get in contact with us so we get this sorted . costeffective.com.au/
Bro I’m going thru same thing! I have 443k miles. And I having oil seem thru passenger boost tube. My truck is a slow turn. But I don’t hot dog it. Daily driver 110 miles a day. Oils change, fuel filter, air filter every 3500 miles Sometimes 5 when I forget. Some blow by when I pull oil cap. Been a long time since changed the crank case vent. Just got new stop Hpop, ford injectors, all the wire and hard ware. Glow plugs all kinds of stuff. But I’m worried I need rings and basically lower rebuild. If not full. Really worried. Here in Houston Texas, no diesel truck repair is reasonable.
My understanding is that longer intervals between oil changes will contribute to sludge and thus when the oil is changed then more likely to go black sooner. The opposite is also the case. So if a diesel engine has had a good history of short intervals then the oil will be less black generally. Another consideration isthe oil used. Every oil has different cleaning additives. Less cleaners could mean less black? There are also many other reasons the oil could go black sooner like engine running temps, EGT, lots of short trips and so on. Mr cost effective maintenance, what I would like to know is 1. When would you suggest a flush is done? 2. What potential side effects are there? 3. Can the fush be just added to the 5000km old oil rather than new oil?
Red Rocket Thanks for the comments. Yes, there are many factors at play with engine oil turning black. Before flushing an engine its best practice to know what type of flush you are using, as there can be sever consequences in a solvent flush is used. The Flushing Oil Concentrate is a concentrated detergent bases formula, and once the engine is up to temperature the flush will actively dissolve all built up sludge and carbon from the oil wetted side of the engine. To answer your questions 1 An engine flush can be done at any time , on any diesel or petrol engine. Flush can be used to remove sludge / stuck rings from a high mileage engine It can be used on a new vehicle before each oil change to prevent oiled oil from building up Or on a regular vehicle as routine maintenance. 2: Potential side effects are very limited Being a detergent-based flush, it is a very safe way of flushing an engine. Hard built-up deposits are easily dissolved avoiding potential oil blockages If a vehicle has been badly maintained and there are mechanical issues present IE Broken rings / perished seals these faults will not be fixed by flushing an engine. 3. For a badly sludge engine we do recommend adding the flush to NEW engine oil to assist the cleaning process If at 5000Km the engine oil is somewhat clean translucent ( does not stain fingers) the Flush can be added. Hope this help Feel free to contact us directly with you vehicle details if you need any further assistance. Cheers JImmy
The Flushing Oil Concentrate can be used before each oil change as part of routine maintenance. It can then be added into the oil the day before the oil change is due. Feel free to contact us direcetly if needed. Cheers
I purchase this stuff for my 6.5 L Diesel engine with a 8 liter oil capacity. I accidentally pour more than half of the FTC 250 ml container. Do you think I can ruin the engine if continue the process with this amount of FTC stuff?
Hi, To help answer your question: The Flushing Oil Concentrate is added to the engine oil. The FTC Decarbonizer is added to the Diesel. Have you accidently added the FTC Decarbonizer into the engine oil? Cheers Jimmy
I have been using these products for 11 years in all my machinery. I bought my MN 2.5 litre diesel Triton new in 2010 and it now has 537,000 kms on the clock and does not burn one drop of oil between 15,000 km services , it still runs the original injectors and still pulls like a freight train ! A very good Australian product. Highly recommend CEM.
Traded this Cummins I had with quite a bit of blow by for a duramax I did a blow by test and had no blow by a couple hundred miles I did it again and it puffed the cap up I don’t understand how this could happen over a couple hundred miles
Beacuse the engine is only reving at a high idle, you can use a different weight oil. The engine will not be under any load thus less stress. We use clean oil to help circulate the Flushing Concentrate around the engeine. Cheers
I took my Toyota 4runner SR5 into a shop because my Engine light was coming on & flashing & was shaking after restarting it again on the same day. I had my sparkplugs, wire, coil, mass air flow, and gas cap replaced. Just prior an engine oil leak repaired. Now the light is pretty constant but not always on. I have pd 4 mechanics in total, 2 after those repairs & all say 2 Cylindar misfires, but no solutions until I just went to another who said it had too much air in engine so replaced 2 very small rubber hoses, one round, the other about 3"L, he chrgd me approx $500 w diagnostic test.. I ended up having to go to another that did another diagnostic test & said it was a Compression issue that would cost $3000 . Does any of this make any sense?
Hi Allie, feel free to Email us your contact detials so we can have one of the team get in contact you. We will need to get some more information from you . Cheers Jimmy admin@costeffective.com.au
This seems straight forward enough for me. My mechanic is quoting me $300 for an engine flush on my Prado, for 90000km. Is this reasonable? I’m in Melbourne Australia
HI Kat, flushing out an engine is a relatively easy process. We have flushed out hundreds of Prados over the years with great results. If you want we can give you call and run you through the process. If you have an oil sludge / oil pickup problem the engine flush will safely clean that engine up. Cheers Cost Effective Maintenance
