Definitely not recommended. There is latency on any dashcam that is transmitting signal to an app. That delay would make its use as a backup camera extremely unsafe.

I would check with Technic PNP, they have pretty good coverage for late model BMW products 👍

It is an off the shelf part. It is actually for fords. If I remember correctly, the adapters are the one that is used in the rear doors of a 2015+ F150

We don’t do alpine, so I can’t compare exactly. I can tell you that from looking at specs, the AF Forza is more flexible, and makes more power. The alpine is cheaper 🤷‍♂️

I have Alpine and Audison........not even in the same category honestly. Especially since Audison just released a new software update. I can do so much. It's unreal. Lots of autotune functionality.

@@drrckhamilton upmixer functionality as well now 🔥🔥🔥🔥

What part of Florida? We might be able to recommend a shop for you 👍

@@Columbuscaraudio Thank you. Pompano Beach Florida.

Is it though? 😁

Not sure on that, I do know that he had it powder coated though.

What do you think the price point should be for something like this?

@@Columbuscaraudio😂

@@TheU2bstud 🤷‍♂️ seemed like a fair question 🤣

Hi Joey, yes it should have a power plug. The plug is on the same side as the USB.

Thank you guys it is that I need pry plugs to release the plugs

@@MrJoeym888 just give them a wiggle they’ll come out. Funny story. Back when the BitOne was fairly new, one of our sales guys bought one for his personal vehicle. He didn’t realize that those plugs came out, so he had completely disassembled the case before someone noticed and told him 😅

thank you guys very much i heaving got chance to try it I'll will try when i get a chance because i contact the guy who sold it me he was no help i just wanted thanks

@@MrJoeym888 is the plug missing? Let me know if it is and we’ll try and point you in the right direction to get a new one.

The earlier models did not have the input for a satellite tuner, but the new ones do. But yes, even on an older one you could use the app via CarPlay/android Auto

Most audio products are these days. I’d venture to guess that the device you typed your comment with was manufactured there as well 😁

@@Columbuscaraudio Completely agree.. Unfortunately but all of the model components I own are not made there.. My 880’s . . ST 1108’s & my piccolo tweets as well.. All Israel

@@smigletat9634 exactly, this is very common these days even with the higher end brands. Their flagship models are manufactured in their home country, but the more “mass market” products are typically made in Asia. It’s not necessarily a terrible thing with a quality brand. The engineering and “voicing” happens at the mothership, and manufacturing is farmed out to Asia. It allows them to be more competitively priced. The particular speakers in this video clip are a great example…they are a great value. They sound nice, and they don’t cost $4k 👍

Yes. It has enough channels to accomplish that, and the input processing power to overcome the silliness coming out of your OEM headunit. I don’t think that amp does 2 ohm bridged “officially”. I would recommend running a separate amplifier for the subwoofer. You will still be able to use the DSP processing that the Forza provides for the separate sub amplifier. In that situation, I would run: Channel 1 to your Left Front component tweeter Channel 2 to your Right Front component tweeter Channels 3&4 bridged to your Left Front Midbass speaker Channels 5&6 bridged to your Right Front Midbass speaker Channel 7 for Left Rear Channel 8 for Right Rear You would then use DSP1 out to your separate subwoofer amplifier. This configuration would give you total control as it is an active configuration. In this situation you are not using the passive crossovers that came with your component set. This would allow you to actively crossover, equalize, and time delay each speaker location. This would definitely be a great setup for you 👍

@@Columbuscaraudio Thank you for the reply and recommendations. Before your reply I didn't think my setup could use all 8 channels. I do have a few questions. My experience with car audio installation is limited to installing head units and speakers using aftermarket head units and stocks systems. Hooking speakers up to amps, installing new speaker wires, using lint out converters and installing subwoofers is new to me. 1. I looked up the specs of just the tweeter and it's rated at 50 watts RMS @ 2 ohm. The AF C8.14 bit powers each channel at 100 watts RMS at 2 ohm. I couldn't find data on just the woofer of the component system but combine with the tweeter and crossover is 90 watts RMS @ 2 ohm. So 100 watts RMS would be over by a little. I've heard that overpowering speakers and subs a little doesn't hurt it and some say it is better to do so. How much overpower is safe for a speaker, sub or tweeter? 2. I want to make sure that I have enough power to run everything and my friend says that I'm good in that department but I just want to run this by you guys. My Honda HR-V uses a OEM group 51R flooded battery producing 580 CA and 500 CCA. I will be buying a AGM version down the road and the specs are the same as OEM. I couldn't find that amp rating for my stock Mitsubishi alternator but I'm assuming it's about 100 to 110 amps. The AF C8.14 bit amp is 800 Watts RMS at 2 ohm and the amp I will use for the sub is a AudioControl ACM-1.300 pushing 300 watts RMS at 2 ohm (although I have seen many dynos where it's really 350 Watts RMS). The total power rating adds up to 1100 watts RMS. With the stock alternator and group 51R AGM battery is that enough to power my audio system and the essential needs of the car? 3. Considering that my Infinity Kappa speakers and sub are rated at 2 ohm, would I need to install new speaker wires to connect them? If yes, what is the optimal speaker wire gauge I should use? The stock system and wires in my HR-V is a 4 ohm system. 4. I know that with the components I can remove the crossover but with the coaxial speakers has pre-wired passive crossovers that cannot be removed. In this case would I not adjust the rear speakers' DSP since it has a crossover built-in or do I somehow have to work around that? 5. Say if I went with Audison AF C4.10 bit instead to save money. Would I still be able it connect the AudioControl ACM-1.300 to it and have the DSP control the sub like with the AF C8.14 bit? Also would the AF C8.14 bit's 150 watts RMS at 2 ohm be too much power for the component (90 watts RMS) and coaxial (75 watts RMS) speakers?

Dronemobile works in the US, and most of Canada and Mexico. I’m not sure if the XC-LTE has any limitations beyond that.

Definitely. You just wouldn’t be grabbing signal in the same place. If it has ANC, the module will be where the Bose amp is and you can get it there. If it doesn’t have ANC, you will need to run to the radio module in the right side of the dash.

Good question. The vehicle at the beginning of the video had 18% film over top of the OEM 22% tint, which puts the back window at about 4-5% 👍.

Thank you

Not sure about Phoenix, but so far so good here in central Ohio. They do provide a cleaning/priming wipe for pre-treatment.

One of these days 👍 Thank you for checking it out

Absolutely! Everyone’s afraid of getting sued though 😆

@@Columbuscaraudio not if u have warning stickers

They are android based, so there can be miscellaneous quirks I suppose. One quirk on the gen 4 & 5 that would bug me for example is not being able to have a different audio source playing (ie FM) while the CarPlay screen is up. That would bug me. On the Gen6 (which I believe all of the XL screens are), I’ve been told that that is fixed. I haven’t done one personally to verify though. Just like any device these days…keep it updated, and all should be well. Their tech support is typically very helpful as well if you do have an issue 👍

@Columbuscaraudio cool yeah that xl is the one I been looking at, I have an android phone and usually listen to RU-vid music for my system. I never listen to the radio ever. I see it has rca outputs as well I'm wondering if I would use those to go to my sub amp or jus keep using my line out converter harness that has anc bypass on it as well. Guess if I used the rca outs on the linkswell I would jus need to anc bypass that all

@@johnnypiper1717 you can do it either way. You can leave it as is, since it’s already working. Or you can use the sub-out so you have sub control on screen. Thank you for the great questions btw 👍👍

@Columbuscaraudio awesome, you wouldn't happen to know if the 5th gen ram 1500 thats non amplified factory have bass roll off? I really need an rta to see jus heard there was and heard there wasn't. Thats why I went with the wavetechDQ loc since it has a parametric eq on it to target certain frequencys and you are able to boost the signal around those frequency with 0-12db boost and put it narrow or wide. May jus need to call a shop see if they have an rta and can check that out for me. Those linkswell xl screens have eq settings on them as well?

@@johnnypiper1717 It seems like just about every car these days has some type of bass roll off, auto-loudness, or whatever you’d like to call it. Doing a new headunit is a great way to get rid of it completely though. And yes, the linkswell units have a pretty comprehensive set of audio controls onboard. Obviously not as flexible as a standalone DSP, but more than most headunits for sure 👍

Yeah, unfortunately lavalier mics don’t have any gain adjustment ability. Jay is loud 🤣 It’s part of his charm. Thanks for the advice 👍

@@Columbuscaraudio True, but your preamp does 😉

@@oldman8277 it’s funny because we have many different types of fancy equipment for testing signals and audio. But when we make videos we just use an iPhone…so no preamp gain control. Mic receiver is wireless, and just plugs into the phone.

Not necessarily. They are all different these days. Most of them have the full frequency range available, just not always on the individual channels.

Thanks for answering. I'm thinking about installing a sound system with Audison brand equipment in my car. I'm in doubt between using an amplifier that already contains a DSP (for example: an Audison Prima AP8.9 bit) or a normal amplifier (for example: an Audison SR 5.600) in conjunction with an external DSP (for example: an Audison bit One HD Virtuoso). In your opinion, what would be the best choice? Is the DSP software that is already “inside” the Audison Prima AP8.9 bit amplifier as good as the DSP software that is inside the Audison bit One HD Virtuoso? Is there much difference between the DSP’s of these two devices?

@@VendendoNaInternetAgora For me, it depends on what you’re using for signal. The Virtuoso is fantastic from a hardware, and sound quality standpoint. What it doesn’t do as well as Forza is OEM integration. Forza is newer, so obviously it’s going to have some abilities that an 8ish year old design does not have. If it’s a vehicle where you’re able to use an optical interface, or a PAC AP4 etc, then either route will give you great results. If you’re using OEM signal…it’s going to be forza for me every time. What kind of car? Edit: to clarify, a Prima 8.9 is a different animal than forza as well. If it’s Prima or virtuoso…I would go virtuoso.

Very cool! They still have some very nice ultra high end stuff, but they also have gear for everyone these days. Even the entry-level equipment is well made.

Yes, there is an interior camera add-on for the Drone XC

@@Columbuscaraudio Ok thank you but, can I use the main unit that sits on the front windshield facing towards the inside of the vehicle instead??

@@blackbushido unfortunately not. The way it is made to mount to a windshield wouldn’t allow that. The interior cam works great though, and has IR so it sees in the dark as well

@@blackbushido we have a video that we released last week going over the various parts that come with it. Check it out

@@Columbuscaraudio DERN, ok thank you. Oh ok so I could just get the interior camera ONLY then??

Same 😅 It’s a very nice unit, and the data plans are surprisingly affordable. I always figured that would be the catch.

Extremely cool. I’m surprised it took this long for a product like this to drop 👍

@@Columbuscaraudio How to you register this when you already have to drop mobile system installed?

@@apogeedetail existing drone gets removed from vehicle, and the Drone XC takes its place. You would add the new device in your app. If you have any trouble with adding it, just call in to Dronemobile. They are very helpful and will get you fixed up. 👍

@@Columbuscaraudio Thank you!

Same here! Always loved them

I honestly don’t remember on these trucks if it’s a plastic plug that we go through, or if it’s the parking brake cable grommet that we go through. There is almost always something like that to run through though. When there isn’t, you just drill a hole, add a grommet, and seal it up well 👍

If your still concerned, then try the negative post on the battery. It's probably going to be hard to get under .05

Where are you testing from? From the battery terminal? Your resistance could be in the OEM ground cable, the terminal, the contact point etc. As far as grounding goes in general, it doesn’t get much better than a few inches from the OEM lug. Let me know what you find 👍

Good morning! Shoot me an email to Dan@columbuscaraudio.com with some vehicle info, and I can get you a quote together 👍

It is Avery Dennison Satin Rushing Riptide 👍

That is if you’re doing the upgraded kit that does the vehicle info. That particular kit comes with a USB/HDMI that replaces the power port. The adaptor at the uconnect module is to retain the OEM USB port in the center console for the 2nd USB in on the Heigh10. The standard JK kit comes with a dual USB for the power port, so the adaptor isn’t needed.

Same! AWD donuts are the best 😅. The good news is that it was almost 70 degrees a day or 2 later, so it was gone quickly

It can be tough, make sure you threaded the screws into the plastic part first. You have to push harder than you think you should be. I typically give it an initial “hard push” to compress the foam gasket some. When you get it, you’ll feel the side pieces click in. You have to keep firm pressure as you get the screws started. Hope that helps some 👍

Another thing to note, make sure the passenger side dash (the air bag part) is clipped into the sub dash correctly. I see quite a few of these where there are some fitment issues with that part of the dash.

Thank you for getting back to me.

@@ErnieButitta no problem at all, hopefully it helps 👍

It’s even better in person! Absolutely love this car

No, the speakers will play whatever is being sent to them. You’ll want to verify what impedance the oem speaker is try to get one that matches. Unfortunately I don’t know what impedance that stock meridian speaker is.

@@Columbuscaraudio ok cool, what I’ll prob do is take the speaker on the dash out and check the ohms on that one and prob check the lower door speaker which i believe is a 6.5inch speaker, but they usually all the same ohms right? So the dash should be same as rest

@@bobbylight8618 no, usually if the door midbass driver is 2ohm (for example), the midrange or tweeter will still be 4 or even 8ohms. I would definitely recommend checking the driver that you’re replacing 👍

Psshhh NOPE 😁

Where are you located?

@@Columbuscaraudio Colorado

Honestly, I don’t know the generation breakdown on Rams, but it was the new body style..not a classic