Audison FORZA: The Best DSP Amplifiers in 2024  

Very cool! They still have some very nice ultra high end stuff, but they also have gear for everyone these days. Even the entry-level equipment is well made.

I would check with Technic PNP, they have pretty good coverage for late model BMW products 👍

We don’t do alpine, so I can’t compare exactly. I can tell you that from looking at specs, the AF Forza is more flexible, and makes more power. The alpine is cheaper 🤷‍♂️

I have Alpine and Audison........not even in the same category honestly. Especially since Audison just released a new software update. I can do so much. It's unreal. Lots of autotune functionality.

@@drrckhamilton upmixer functionality as well now 🔥🔥🔥🔥

@@carlover4239 I love the software, it’s very intuitive. What kind of vehicle are you doing? If you would like, feel free to email me at dan@columbuscaraudio.com, and I can get you pointed in the right direction 👍

@@carlover4239 just to give you a little more info here, the 5.11 has 5 amplified channels. The “5th” channel is a subwoofer output. If you’re doing a larger subwoofer setup, the M1D would render that 5th channel unnecessary. The recommendation at that point would be to do a Forza DSP amp that is powering the mids and highs, and use one of the “DSP” outs to go to your M1D. My recommendation would be an 8.14 to give you as much flexibility as possible. It has 8 amplified channels, so you can run your component speakers active or bridge channels for more output. The nice thing about going this route is that it does away with the passive crossovers. From an installation perspective it’s nice because you don’t have to find somewhere to put them, and it gives you far greater control.

@@Columbuscaraudio Been down with Covid but finally feeling better. I appreciate y'all! I'll give you a call soon.

@@carlover4239 ready when you are 💪💪

Not necessarily. They are all different these days. Most of them have the full frequency range available, just not always on the individual channels.

Thanks for answering. I'm thinking about installing a sound system with Audison brand equipment in my car. I'm in doubt between using an amplifier that already contains a DSP (for example: an Audison Prima AP8.9 bit) or a normal amplifier (for example: an Audison SR 5.600) in conjunction with an external DSP (for example: an Audison bit One HD Virtuoso). In your opinion, what would be the best choice? Is the DSP software that is already “inside” the Audison Prima AP8.9 bit amplifier as good as the DSP software that is inside the Audison bit One HD Virtuoso? Is there much difference between the DSP’s of these two devices?

@@VendendoNaInternetAgora For me, it depends on what you’re using for signal. The Virtuoso is fantastic from a hardware, and sound quality standpoint. What it doesn’t do as well as Forza is OEM integration. Forza is newer, so obviously it’s going to have some abilities that an 8ish year old design does not have. If it’s a vehicle where you’re able to use an optical interface, or a PAC AP4 etc, then either route will give you great results. If you’re using OEM signal…it’s going to be forza for me every time. What kind of car? Edit: to clarify, a Prima 8.9 is a different animal than forza as well. If it’s Prima or virtuoso…I would go virtuoso.

Yeah, unfortunately lavalier mics don’t have any gain adjustment ability. Jay is loud 🤣 It’s part of his charm. Thanks for the advice 👍

@@Columbuscaraudio True, but your preamp does 😉

@@oldman8277 it’s funny because we have many different types of fancy equipment for testing signals and audio. But when we make videos we just use an iPhone…so no preamp gain control. Mic receiver is wireless, and just plugs into the phone.

Hi Joey, yes it should have a power plug. The plug is on the same side as the USB.

Thank you guys it is that I need pry plugs to release the plugs

@@MrJoeym888 just give them a wiggle they’ll come out. Funny story. Back when the BitOne was fairly new, one of our sales guys bought one for his personal vehicle. He didn’t realize that those plugs came out, so he had completely disassembled the case before someone noticed and told him 😅

thank you guys very much i heaving got chance to try it I'll will try when i get a chance because i contact the guy who sold it me he was no help i just wanted thanks

@@MrJoeym888 is the plug missing? Let me know if it is and we’ll try and point you in the right direction to get a new one.

Yes. It has enough channels to accomplish that, and the input processing power to overcome the silliness coming out of your OEM headunit. I don’t think that amp does 2 ohm bridged “officially”. I would recommend running a separate amplifier for the subwoofer. You will still be able to use the DSP processing that the Forza provides for the separate sub amplifier. In that situation, I would run: Channel 1 to your Left Front component tweeter Channel 2 to your Right Front component tweeter Channels 3&4 bridged to your Left Front Midbass speaker Channels 5&6 bridged to your Right Front Midbass speaker Channel 7 for Left Rear Channel 8 for Right Rear You would then use DSP1 out to your separate subwoofer amplifier. This configuration would give you total control as it is an active configuration. In this situation you are not using the passive crossovers that came with your component set. This would allow you to actively crossover, equalize, and time delay each speaker location. This would definitely be a great setup for you 👍

@@Columbuscaraudio Thank you for the reply and recommendations. Before your reply I didn't think my setup could use all 8 channels. I do have a few questions. My experience with car audio installation is limited to installing head units and speakers using aftermarket head units and stocks systems. Hooking speakers up to amps, installing new speaker wires, using lint out converters and installing subwoofers is new to me. 1. I looked up the specs of just the tweeter and it's rated at 50 watts RMS @ 2 ohm. The AF C8.14 bit powers each channel at 100 watts RMS at 2 ohm. I couldn't find data on just the woofer of the component system but combine with the tweeter and crossover is 90 watts RMS @ 2 ohm. So 100 watts RMS would be over by a little. I've heard that overpowering speakers and subs a little doesn't hurt it and some say it is better to do so. How much overpower is safe for a speaker, sub or tweeter? 2. I want to make sure that I have enough power to run everything and my friend says that I'm good in that department but I just want to run this by you guys. My Honda HR-V uses a OEM group 51R flooded battery producing 580 CA and 500 CCA. I will be buying a AGM version down the road and the specs are the same as OEM. I couldn't find that amp rating for my stock Mitsubishi alternator but I'm assuming it's about 100 to 110 amps. The AF C8.14 bit amp is 800 Watts RMS at 2 ohm and the amp I will use for the sub is a AudioControl ACM-1.300 pushing 300 watts RMS at 2 ohm (although I have seen many dynos where it's really 350 Watts RMS). The total power rating adds up to 1100 watts RMS. With the stock alternator and group 51R AGM battery is that enough to power my audio system and the essential needs of the car? 3. Considering that my Infinity Kappa speakers and sub are rated at 2 ohm, would I need to install new speaker wires to connect them? If yes, what is the optimal speaker wire gauge I should use? The stock system and wires in my HR-V is a 4 ohm system. 4. I know that with the components I can remove the crossover but with the coaxial speakers has pre-wired passive crossovers that cannot be removed. In this case would I not adjust the rear speakers' DSP since it has a crossover built-in or do I somehow have to work around that? 5. Say if I went with Audison AF C4.10 bit instead to save money. Would I still be able it connect the AudioControl ACM-1.300 to it and have the DSP control the sub like with the AF C8.14 bit? Also would the AF C8.14 bit's 150 watts RMS at 2 ohm be too much power for the component (90 watts RMS) and coaxial (75 watts RMS) speakers?