I know this is a little late but if your run that nut down on the bead breaker air cylinder shaft you'd gain another two inches or so of bead breaking ability.
Good evening, have you ever had a case where the motorcycle worked well when traveling and when you stopped it it turned off? Did you find the solution?
I have a 00 xr650l and it's been to a few shops and none of them fixed my bike I did it had a oil leak come to find out 3 bolt holes were stripped now that's fixed now when riding and im coming to a stop My bike doesn't stay on I'm not sure if I have blown valves?
@MikeMcRoberts Sorry Mike, don't know why that wasn't on the video. If you watch my video on the 2015 valve adjustment, you will see the cam position, it's basically the same thing as the first gen Vee.
@VansHomeServices I like the tire machine, if i had the room i would have got the one with the arm that pushes the bead down, but the balancer, though it works well for static balancing, I would spend a little more on a higher end one.
Thanks for the video. It seems like it's not the best design for regular maintenance but . That's the problem with the more computers get involved over a human designing it.
Do you know if this issue with the loose bolt is limited to DCT models only or can it be found in the manual transmissions as well? Is yours a DCT model?
OMG, I've been on the internet, seems like forever looking for information on this complete job!!!! Amazing, Amazing, Amazing. Some may feel it's a slow going video, but TO ME, I LOVE IT!!! The step by step procedures REALLY helps A LOT!!!! You definitely have a new subscriber and follower and will share it with friends. I noticed you didn't use the manufactured lines on the swing arm when determining the tension and alignment of the chain, curious as to why. It's been my go to. Thanks again V-Strom Garage.
Thanks, I'm glad it helped. I usually use a chain alignment tool to get it a little more exact than the lines on the swingarm, but the lines are close enough.
@@Paul-cc5rp I'm in Vegas, Thinking of going to Vancouver Island and exploring for a week, not sure after that. I know the wife wants to get some Rogers chocolate while we are there.
I'm not sure if this will work on an 07. You will need a vac sync to adjust the primary throttle plates. I can't remember which year they started to have to use Idle speed control lock out to do the sync correctly, this is something you have to use a computer to make it happen.
Man I'm getting ready to do this, and I was saying to myself "I've got so much more sludge in my sprocket cover"... then I saw your comment. Yeah, I definitely lube every other fuel tank. Not sure it gave me any extra mileage, but it is much messier! Peace of mind I suppose at least.
Hello. Which hydraulic oil do you use for the clutch? Is it possible to use the dot4 oil we use in brakes? Also, on my engine, shifting between 1st and 2nd gear is sometimes very loud and difficult, and sometimes it goes into neutral.
Looks like this is on the left side of the bike. But your last Pic your talking about fidling with it to reset the Trans and filming the right side of the bike so what side is it? I would think it's the left like most bikes... BTW thanks for this video I've been stuck with problem for a while can't find a mechanic that can fix it
DANGER If the decompression mechanism is removed there is a oil gallery that needs to be blocked off or your top end is going to be tost from a lack of oil pressure
Thanks very much for the video, I'm trying understand between your vid and some online descriptions, it seems you didn't remove the damper rod and I'm trying to understand why the other guy said that it's necessary 🤔😭
If you want to get 100% of the old oil out you would have to remove the damper. Otherwise I don't believe there's any need to remove it, unless you were going to install some gold valves in it.
Also, there are some pin bearings on the clutch where is slides on. Does the clutch just slide off? I don't see any end bolt holding it in place. Is it not just held in place by the cover plate?
Could you not have just locked the rear brake by wrapping some rope around the brake lever, and then torquing the variator bolt that way, instead of making some special tool?
@@VStromGarage Ah, ok. I'm thinking about buying a used silver wing, so just wondering about some the the maintenance specifics. Surprised the torque on that nut is only 75, being such a powerful scooter and all.
For the belt I always go with Honda, not sure who has the best prices online anymore, it's been a while. The rest of it I just get quality brands.@@TheRealistPhilosopher
the only way to find out is to use a leak down tester on each cylinder, if you hear air coming from the airbox it's your intake valves, if you hear air from the exhaust pipe it's your exhaust valves, and if you hear air from the crankcase it's your piston rings. Remove the oil filler plug to hear the crankcase.
@@VStromGarage sorry I forgot my manners that you for your info and your videos most helpful. Do you have a video on the problem I have ore a head rebuild pls
Thanks guys... I made the same mistake with the shifter drum... In my case, the pin was broken... If it wasn't for your video... I probably would not have solved the problem... Great video with lots of detail... Once again, thank you so much 🙏...
I just changed my front to a 16T and it looks like 500 rpm change. I'm going to change the rear to a 46T and I will be right at 4000 rpm at 60 MPH. the gearing is excellent now, taking low speed corners are smooth and seamless. Interstate speed will have engine rpm at @ 5000 rpm which is much smoother than the 5500 in stock config. Much better riding bike than without changes best improvement I've done to this bike. For those who think it makes the bike underpowered when initially starting out i'm not finding that at all, the bike is smooth and power is totally even and smooth on takeoff. 180 lb rider ........................JB.. @@VStromGarage
Está bien, pero tienes algún fallo en el montaje, el aceite se mide con el cartucho comprimido, o sea, en su posición más baja, veo que después de meter el muelle, vuelves a sacar aceite, eso no se hace, por otra parte, es bueno sacar el cartucho para limpiarlo totalmente, yo me fabricado con un vaso de carraca de 24 y un tubo uno, también un compresor de muelle y un tirador del émbolo del cartucho te facilita mucho el trabajo y son fáciles de hacer, por lo demás, muy bien explicado, todo esto te lo digo con ánimo de ayudar, para nada es una crítica, un saludo ✌️
I over filled it to be able to remove the oil to the correct measurements of the service manual, which is 120mm from the top with the spring removed and outer tube compressed. How is this incorrect?
@@VStromGarageI Just did the valve clearances, one inlet on the rear cyl was tight(24,000klm check). I used your torque settings etc. and method to get timing before removing the cam. Thanks for the video it was very helpful!!
Nice job. I need to do a top-end job on my xr650l, so I've watched two different gentlemen rebuild top ends on Honda XR650L today. I like the way you did your rebuild, you talked through the top end rebuild a nice and slowly. Thank you Texas on the prairie
That's a tough one to answer, there's a few variables, if you are just riding street, no offroad, for myself I would change it probably around 30K. If your doing some dirt trails and really working the suspension hard, I would change mine at 15K, but that's me, other people will have their opinions.
