I'm using a microflocker.. Really did a lot of great jobs with it, but do have some problems with dry spots some times, and may think it's time for a upgrade soon..🙄
If I flock something and it comes out a bit patchy, to fix can I reapply glue to the entire piece and then reflock? Or do I need to somehow remove everything and start again?
Do the parts that get touched by hands and other objects wear down the flocking over an expected duration or does it hold up well inside cabins given daily usage? I'm now imagining all sorts of interior pieces that could look equally awesome with a electro-flocked coating. Thanks for sharing!
Hi I've been trying this out myself but I keep getting mixed results , small parts come out fine bigger parts always come out patchy as thought the flock is sinking into the glue or not taking to the glue , do you have any tips or suggestions?
Hi there, yes it is, as no gelcoat is being used its good measure to ensure the surface is clean of all contaminants, it also helps with the high gloss due to the lack of resistance during resin flow and wet out. Hope this hgelps
what do you think is missing mate? over here in the uk we tend to grade things by power instead of stages, but in america people seem to class them as stages, the kit bought from NR racing was the stage 4+ hop up kit. Thats why I called the title that
@@rajbanerjee They advertise the stage 4 kit to go up to 20+ hp, so it was a bit disappointing to see just 15hp, at least for me. Also, from what i've seen on other websites, the rpm can go up to 8000 rpm. I don't know if peak hp should be there at 8k, though, or lower. Anyway, i'm still intrigued why it's "just" 15 hp. Were you able to improve the power in any way?
Hello there ,mate, firstly my dyno is dialed back so its is a very very harsh reading, but the main reason I bought the dyno is because the amount of people in the states bolt this and that to a pred or clone engine and the quoting 20 plus hp is just absolute rubbish, as I have proved. This small series was more of an eye opener for people who dont have access to a dyno. There is a lot of silly figures being banded around simply to boost sales. Yes the more rpm achieved the more hp is produced, but for my application its for a circuit kart so i need mid-range power so my can is pretty much done at 7500, but it will still happily rev up and past 8k, its just not making any more power there. Currently they are sitting at around 17hp each. I building a new dyno now with a lot of new modifications and improvements so hopefully I will have some more info soon. But check out Red Beards garage, he has done a series called road to hp, he is at the same power if not a but lower than mine, yet on some earlier vids with the same mods the power quoted was a hell of a lot more, only difference is one had dyno results the other didnt. And guess what, the results with the lower values was the ones with the dyno. Producing a 20+ hp engine reliably is a very very difficult task to do with bolt on parts. Pleas stay tuned mate some mroe content coming in regards to this.
@@autoflockmotorsport7730Did watch Red Beard's videos, and kinda realized most sellers lie about the power output. 17 hp is very decent, i think, to get out of this engine. There is the gxtuningstoreuk that sells a kit for these engines, rated at 18 hp, but it does come with a milled, ported and polished cylinder head, and doesnt have such an aggresive rocker ratio as most US builders. I think that's what im gonna go with on my build, later this spring. If you heard anything good or bad about gxtuningstoreuk, let me know, please! Good luck with your builds!
Looking Great! Would you be up for making a video on what products youre usig? I'm from the states and have done small interior flocking with simple equipment. But i really would love to actually do my dash! The glare just kills vision!
Thank you very much, unfortunately only the information given out in the videos is what im willing to reveal as its taken many years and a lot of failed work to find the combination of materials to ensure the best product/finish I can.
Morning Lester, thank you for the nice comment, actually no I haven't, I have plenty on the shelf too, I will give it a go mate and thanks for the heads up. Have a great day mate
Hi mate I followed these guidlines www.motorsportuk.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/seatguidance02.04.19.pdf#:~:text=Seats%20should%20only%20be%20mounted%20in%20accordance%20with,seat%20supports%20for%20those%20homologated%20to%20FIA%208862-2010.
I am in Portugal and going to attempt this on my Fiat 128 Abarth. Are all of the flocking electrostatic machines about the same, or is there big advantage to more expensive equipment. My dash is plastic, and the sun has started to peel it a bit (it gets 40 degrees out here), but its a simple dash and pretty small. No one out here does flocking so im on my own
I have built quite a few of these and I used to do the plasti gauge but after doing it several times I never had one that needed any attention so I just put the rod in and let it rip. I have taken a rod out of a motor and put it in another motor and taken them apart cleaning and rebuilding and have never had any rod problems. One thing I do recommend doing with a billet rod is the first time I instal one I do oil it with the oil I’m going to run, tighten it down to about 80 pounds spin the motor a few times and loosen it up and then tighten it down to about 100 pounds they recommend 120 but I only go to 100 and have not had any issue.
