Clean the carb, check for spark, new points or clean and adjust old, spark plugs, if you have compression it should run. Sometimes I use a pressurized oil container plumbed into an oil galley to pre lube everything with clean oil if it’s been sitting a long time.
Mind if I ask what your GVW of the trailer was with no vehicle inside it? And with all the safety issues you had, is it actually dangerous to haul a car with this?
@@Redacted-x_x I don’t remember the GVW but the biggest issue with any toy hauler is that you’re limited to where you can locate the cargo front to rear to create ideal tongue weight, this trailer wasn’t big enough to haul a car other than something very small. I would recommend a gooseneck over a bumper pull for any type of toy hauler.
Typical RV issues. At least it's not gonna rot when it leaks, or when the moisture in your breath condenses on the cold spots. One misnomer that needs to be cleared up. The phrase aluminum does not rust is misused. Rust it the name for corrosion on ferrous metals. Aluminum is corrosion resistant not corrosion proof. If exposed to briny liquids like that used in road deicers the aluminum will corrode rapidly.
New venture gear was a garbage company, why Chrysler EVER went with them is mind boggling, had to have been cost savings, considering that years of using Gertrag's beforehand (that were absolutely bulletproof) were left behind in favor of NVG. There's a reason NVG is no longer a company, and a big part of it is that they were crap. The T850 in the SRT4 remains a mess 20 years later, the one weak link on the drivetrain.
I appreciate your video, but I would like to make a clarification, reading on the Internet and many websites that touch on the topic of a “NERVOUS” address and it makes me ask: To all of you who had this feeling, bothered to put the scanner or take it to a workshop, enter the PASSLOCK / EVO MODULE and read DTCs or review the data flow, and see if the steering wheel position or steering angle sensor is Good??? Maybe you already have a section of the track damaged and when you turn the steering wheel the potentiometer reading is lost and that is when the evo system fails and gives that sensation on the steering wheel. Called nervous or inconsistent??? A few years ago I acquired a suburban 98 6.5l and I noticed that fault, the truth is I didn't notice much difference, but what I do know, is that the evo system requires the speedometer signal and APPROXIMATELY from 20 miles at 40mhp the evo commands to close the flow by 25%, from 40 to 60 miles it commands to close 50% and I think that above that speed it commands 75 % obstruction by the EVO, the passlock/evo module monitors the current applied to the solenoid, it should not exceed 1.5A, who knows if the PASSLOCK module was damaged because of the EVO, another problem with these cars, I wish it were as easy as remove a fuse, but they come together, one fails, the other fails. I was lucky a few years ago when this module originally cost me 64dlls. Good heavens!!! If I had known years ago, I would not have repaired the steering wheel sensor, it would have been better to invest GM#19168825, Now I am preparing to replace the hydraulic steering pump and although my system It's okay, I could reinstall the EVO system (although I never felt a difference, who knows if it was due to my old worn out pump) I'm going to think about the future, I SUPPOSE that by reducing flow the pump works harder (+ fuel consumption) but the valve activates relief (although they say that internally at high rpm an internal bypass is activated), the oil temperature rises. No thanks, I prefer a durable system and a smooth steering wheel, it just means learning that on uneven or high-speed roads you should not make sudden turns and hold the steering wheel firmly. I don't know what you think, if everything was fine they would keep it or there are things that GM would not have to modify, it would be better to adapt modern technologies such as ELECTROMECHANICAL steering Feel free to give your opinion, greetings
@@Pioneer_Classic_Trucks I'm staying with the rustic look. The last couple of years since I bought it have been interesting. Replaced all the wheels and tires, and have an OBS seat in it. I'm redoing the bed with rough-cut wood from my brother-in-law's forest property, and I'm going to prep and clearcoat the patina. The seals on the engine are shot so I am going to tackle the engine this summer...it's a car/hydromatic from '61-62 with hydraulic lifters, which are shot, and the number one cylinder burns quite a bit of oil. I have a GMC 248 I'm planning to put in it. Everybody loves this old truck when I drive it around town...
I haven’t had one get stuck in 5th but I’d guess it’s something with the 5th synchro, pull the top off and see if the shifter functions properly or not and then you’ll know if it’s the shifter or a gear. I’d recommend going through the whole thing while it’s out of the truck.
Are there any alternate gear options to improve the lag between 3rd and 4th gear for the 4500? Seems like that would keep interested 12 valve guys from looking for a 6 speed. I have seen some info on the NV 5000, but the ratios are about the same and why spend the extra money if you have a good 4500? Thanks again.
@@Pioneer_Classic_Trucks In that case do you mind if I ask why you didn't try to find a 6 speed? For me it would be an economical decision. I guess a power upgrade and turbo upgrade would somewhat make the lag between 3 and 4 pretty tolerable. Thanks again.
I have a 6 speed in one of my trucks that I tow with and it’s great for that, depends on how the truck is used in my opinion but a 5 is good for some applications too, the truck this 5 speed is in won’t be doing heavy towing very often so I think it will be good, it’s about half the weight of a 6 speed also and the 4500 is a very nice shifting trans
Wow, I have never seen a more meticulous, conscientious process. Do you partner up with Elon Musk on special projects. I have a 94 12 Valve W2500 with a Dana 80 SRW axle and a 70 front axle along with the NV 4500. After watching this video I don't think I would trust anyone else to go through mine. I doubt I could even get anyone to watch your video and follow your steps. I love the fixture you made to build the main shaft vertically Thanks for the awesome content. Steve,
Thank you, I figure if anything is worth doing, it’s worth doing it right. I don’t have anything to do with Elon, haha. We’re on different levels I think. Most people view vehicles as disposable nowadays, use it and abuse it then throw it away and get another one, always making payments and relying on someone else to fix it. Not my style.
@@Pioneer_Classic_Trucks Me neither, I see you like old heavy equipment. I have an old Clark Ranger 60 forklift from the Viet Nam era that I would love to resurrect. It articulates in the center as well as having a steering axle in the rear axle position. The normal application for this axle was probably for a 4 X 4 or 6 X 6 Military truck. Turns on a dime.
I am currently experiencing this problem with my 97 Yukon. Thanks for the video. Hopefully, it's not too late to get an answer to a question. My question is, by using the Dorman Bypass tube, am I good to disregard the sensor that is under the dash? For instance, if it's faulty and I've done the bypass, can I just pretend it doesn't exist, haha?
Wow man that is clean clean clean… do you know exactly what bearings you used for your fixturing device?? Also is there a list somewhere of the tools you used?
I don’t know the bearing numbers, they were used from some other project and I have a box full of them I save for press tools etc. No list of tools, I got the 5th gear nut tools from Quad 4x4, snap-on 3/4” and 3/8” torque wrench, snap-on for the large snap ring pliers, measuring tools for setting endplay, I probably used and welder to remove the bearing race for the input shaft, hydraulic press, I think that’s the major things besides common hand tools and a way to clean parts. Judging what parts need replacement and what can be reused comes with experience. Thanks you!
Why so slow? If you are bouncing out of the seat you are going too fast, if you are not bouncing out of the seat you are not going fast enough. Close the grapple as soon as you drop your hitch or you will stick that grapple through a rear tire if you run over a stump, but going this slow you don't have to worry about it.
Top notch work, I need info on my first NV4500 rebuild. Your work area was spotless, your camera work was excellent as was the step by step explanation. Thank you for the perfect rebuild videos. It sure looked like a lot of work. As another viewer said I am also surprised about the low number of reviews.
Its a tool from Quad 4x4 for the custom mainshaft kits branded as torque king that they no longer sell, they had a press fit on the rear mainshaft bearing and 5th gear and some cases are too tight to get the shaft into the case with the bearing already pressed on so this tool presses on the bearing after the assembled mainshaft is in the case. If it’s still available it would be under tools on their website. You could have a machine shop make one easily if not.
Aren't you Red Green's son, didn't he teach you all about duct tape? You are adding way too much weight with screws and insulation, Duct tape weighs nothing.
My rebuilt transmission has an issue with 3rd gear. the lever moves forward and back when power is applied, then let off. the pickup jerks when this happens, like there is slack in the 3rd gear system. Any Ideas, Thanks Tom
Sounds like whoever rebuilt it didn’t replace all of the worn parts or didn’t set up the shaft endplay correctly, the mainshaft is too loose, or bad bearings maybe.
Where did you get the updated mainshaft with the fully splined 5th gear shaft? I haven't gotten mine apart that far. I just know that one of the gears (3rd gear I think) has a broken tooth and the I put bearing is worn out. It's a 94 4x4 trans and I'll be using parts off a 96 (hopefully) 1 wheel drive trans to fix it that is tight and everything seems to be in good shape.
Wow! Completely unacceptable for the price of ATC products. This is not $25k trailer. I've been seriously considering at 2419 model but now having second thoughts. Who has time and wants to deal with the frustration of hagling with a dealer to fix problems that should have never left the factory. Now that you are two years in with yours, what are you thoughts at this point?
I actually sold the trailer after only using it a few times. After all of the repairs and seeing how poorly they are built I decided it was going to be an ongoing maintenance and repair nightmare and I lost interest in it completely and got a composite truck camper from OEV which has been way less problematic and better quality.
Educational videos should not include fast-forward portions. I can assemble a automatic transmission, but now I want to learn how to assemble a manual.
That should be really interesting.@@Pioneer_Classic_Trucks . Have a great weekend,....let us know what you do next with the trucks.... Which one is the favorite? The rounded front fenders or the squared front fender truck.
Having ate 3 NV4500’s, I personally feel the issue is a poor design as to ratio choices, as the overdrive 5th, creates a torque bottleneck. A better design would be the selection of appropriate ratios throughout the transmission ending in 1:1 top gear, and ultimately a taller rear end ratio.
Beautiful work…. I haven’t looked, but have you done or considered doing other transmission videos? There is a lack of info on the non-world class T5 trans, Getrag trans (not just the Didge Getrag 360, but others like the 260/265/240 BMw trans) which the world has a great following. Also, Toyota R150, and various other Toyota transmissions. The manuals available are both like your videos!! Thanks for that. You have real talent here…
I haven’t done any other transmission videos, I do have some Getrag 360 and some older New Process units and several different transfer cases, differentials etc. that need rebuilt. It was a lot of time and effort to make the video but I would consider doing more of them and possibly putting them behind a paywall or something like that, or maybe if RU-vid would pay, the channel isn’t there yet though. That being said, I would have loved to have access to this type of info when I was young and learning how to do everything the hard way and having to find people that had the experience and were willing to share.
Hey boss I’ve got a dumb question, I’m mid rebuild on my nv4500hd and am winging it, everything went smoothly in my opinion up until I pressed the rear bearing on the main shaft, there’s a bit of play in the reverse gear assembly on the shaft, is that normal?
Kinda tough to answer that. A bit of play could be very different depending on who is measuring it, and I’m not sure what you mean exactly. Endplay, or sideways, or???
@@Pioneer_Classic_Trucks the play was in and out, around .008-.010” but all of the gears seemed to have some play in them in and out so I figure it’ll be ok. Thank you for the reply, also amazing video!
Castrol Syntorq LT® 75w85w GL-4 rated, low temperature, synthetic gear lubricant is the only factory approved lubricant for NV4500 series transmissions. I use Amsoil 75w-90 in mine.
Castrol Syntorq LT® 75w85w GL-4 rated, low temperature, synthetic gear lubricant is the only factory approved lubricant for NV4500 series transmissions. I use Amsoil 75w-90 in mine.
I’m definitely not a competitor, just an unhappy customer. I didn’t find problems till I got it home and started preparing for a trip and going through systems just to get familiar with it. Also prepping for the spray foam exposed a lot of problems that weren’t obvious looking at it on the sales lot.
So the 96” style high pressure line with the “bend” built in is not available as a replacement line by any manufacturer anywhere? The only solution is to find a used line from a 96 or spend 40-50$ on the Dorman or GM evo delete pre-bent section of tube ?
@@Pioneer_Classic_Trucks so the Dorman’ and fvp and all the other remakes are available for a 96 with the bend already in the high pressure line ? Do you recall where and did you put it on a 97+ vehicle or did you just replace it on a 96’ model . I don’t really wanna run the evo delete . Worried it’s just gonna be a joke and leak down the line. Better to have lesser fittings to pose a leak. Then again maybe i will be just fine . I would rather run 96’ pressure line
@@Pioneer_Classic_TrucksLearning a lot about this fix, in fact I am giving the Dorman delete kit a try tomorrow. If it ever fails or leaks I’m gonna try for the 96’ line . One thing I wasn’t aware of is needing ti use a GM output valve fitting or dodge as you show here ? Can these be bought aftermarket as replacements. Or do you have to yank one from a pump ? What year make model did you get the valve from ?
Is this garbage Evo unit able to be taken off with the pump left in place ? I need to do this asap I have a leak from the variable unit it would be much easier and certainly hopeful I can sneak the old one off and fit the Dorman replacement tube In from behind” without removing the pump itself
Thanks So Much for doing these videos! This was the 1st time ever rebuilding a transmission (Chevy NV4500) and besides the mainshaft spacer and nut it was pretty much identical. Thanks again!
If you bought a cargo trailer and tried to convert it into something like this it would cost you a good 100k. So you have to think its still worth it to buy this for 50k and go over a few things that you have to get right. Theres just nothing else to compare it to and people want this type of rv. Still beats the other wood trailers.
What you can do to get a press fit on the spline w the gear is hit the spline w a punch to dimple a couple spots where the gear splines fit, causing an interference fit. Ive worked engine building for a couple years and ive seen my mentor do it a couple times when something should fit tight when it doesnt
My Dad had a 1972 P&H model 218 17.5 ton mobile conventional truck crane. It had a Chrysler industrial engine in the upper with a 4spd transmission and it started at -24 Celsius with out any plugging in or tiger torch aid and it was extremely quiet so you could easily hear the iron workers and it had no problem pulling 80 feet of main boom with a 25 foot jib from the ground and I love flat head engines 😀🇨🇦
