Great video if anyone is wondering the Dodge flow control valve is from a 99/Diesel which apparently is also discontinued. On the upside probably much easier to acquire than the single year GM version at a yard. I say that because I doubt Dodge only used it in that one year, I think you would find it on many different years of Dodge truck, more research needed but that's a start.
I doubt the 96 flow control valve was one year only. Additionally, all Saginaw style pumps have adjustable outlet pressure with different shims and lengths behind the spring on the inside of the pump itself. They can be varied anywhere from about 500 to 1400 psi. The flow control valve has very little to do with output pressure, which is primarily what affects steering feel.
@@johnny0454 Well you would be wrong. If you watched the video it was about deleting the sensor for the late 90s era vortec. The pump was reconfigured for 96-99. The 96 was the only one that didn't have the sensor. The problem is after you delete the sensor how do you reattach the pressure hose. Earlier years WILL NOT FIT and the pump was reconfigured again for the LS style Vortec in year 2000. So yeah, finding that fitting is easier said than done, which you proved. Talk is cheap, my friend.
I appreciate your video, but I would like to make a clarification, reading on the Internet and many websites that touch on the topic of a “NERVOUS” address and it makes me ask: To all of you who had this feeling, bothered to put the scanner or take it to a workshop, enter the PASSLOCK / EVO MODULE and read DTCs or review the data flow, and see if the steering wheel position or steering angle sensor is Good??? Maybe you already have a section of the track damaged and when you turn the steering wheel the potentiometer reading is lost and that is when the evo system fails and gives that sensation on the steering wheel. Called nervous or inconsistent??? A few years ago I acquired a suburban 98 6.5l and I noticed that fault, the truth is I didn't notice much difference, but what I do know, is that the evo system requires the speedometer signal and APPROXIMATELY from 20 miles at 40mhp the evo commands to close the flow by 25%, from 40 to 60 miles it commands to close 50% and I think that above that speed it commands 75 % obstruction by the EVO, the passlock/evo module monitors the current applied to the solenoid, it should not exceed 1.5A, who knows if the PASSLOCK module was damaged because of the EVO, another problem with these cars, I wish it were as easy as remove a fuse, but they come together, one fails, the other fails. I was lucky a few years ago when this module originally cost me 64dlls. Good heavens!!! If I had known years ago, I would not have repaired the steering wheel sensor, it would have been better to invest GM#19168825, Now I am preparing to replace the hydraulic steering pump and although my system It's okay, I could reinstall the EVO system (although I never felt a difference, who knows if it was due to my old worn out pump) I'm going to think about the future, I SUPPOSE that by reducing flow the pump works harder (+ fuel consumption) but the valve activates relief (although they say that internally at high rpm an internal bypass is activated), the oil temperature rises. No thanks, I prefer a durable system and a smooth steering wheel, it just means learning that on uneven or high-speed roads you should not make sudden turns and hold the steering wheel firmly. I don't know what you think, if everything was fine they would keep it or there are things that GM would not have to modify, it would be better to adapt modern technologies such as ELECTROMECHANICAL steering Feel free to give your opinion, greetings
I believe Dorman makes an upgrade kit for about $40, and it comes with a mechanical flow control valve and U-tube with fittings to attach directly to the existing hose.
If you have to give it gas to turn wheels while not moving. Yes, you have a bad solenoid. In my case. The 2 wires to the connection were making contact.
Is this garbage Evo unit able to be taken off with the pump left in place ? I need to do this asap I have a leak from the variable unit it would be much easier and certainly hopeful I can sneak the old one off and fit the Dorman replacement tube In from behind” without removing the pump itself
Hi ! How are you ? I’m gonna delete my evo solenoid (i break it ) so , i dont think the housing is perfectly same direction What the method you did it ???? If it alternative hose what the part number ? And thank you so much for this helpful video ♥️♥️
Also on my 97 GMC Sierra SLE 7.4 vortec engine dually c3500 vehicle question.. there is no leaking noticed.. started to hear noise from reservoir pump filled up to the top noise disappeared.. still no power steering and also brakes assist has gone out on this particular model it's the hydro combination booster variety
I am currently experiencing this problem with my 97 Yukon. Thanks for the video. Hopefully, it's not too late to get an answer to a question. My question is, by using the Dorman Bypass tube, am I good to disregard the sensor that is under the dash? For instance, if it's faulty and I've done the bypass, can I just pretend it doesn't exist, haha?
So if I have the pump with the EVO on it and I want to replace with new. I would need to purchase the new pump that comes with the EVO bypass tube correct? 97 gmc k1500 5.7
Yes, I believe that’s correct. Or I think you could get a ‘96 pump and ‘96 pressure hose and you won’t need the EVO bypass tube, if I remember correctly.
Thanks for the reply! Sorry I just seen this now. Plan on doing my pump soon but just wanted to make sure what one to get. To many options when just searching for power steering pump.
@@Jw509x Make sure you get a conventional/exc. hydro boost pump, and source a 1996 pump. If you cannot locate a 96 pump or have a 97+ pump, you can buy the bypass GM Kit #19168825 or an off brand similar kit and install that, it will rid the valve and you can use a 97+ pressure hose. Since I replaced my entire system looking for this leak I’m going to add the bypass kit instead of replacing my pump and pressure hose again
Mine was jumpy on start and pulling away from the curb.. more and more when I was parking also sometimes losing entirely power ability intermittently becoming slightly intermittent at times.. but then went out totally while pulling away from the curb kind of I think maybe hit the curb with wheel turning. Heard noise before.. could have been electrical short out who knows.. possible to put jumper wires on that electronic solenoid valve? Take loose entirely plug in. Get power from battery direct within line fuse... And is this crazy?
So the 96” style high pressure line with the “bend” built in is not available as a replacement line by any manufacturer anywhere? The only solution is to find a used line from a 96 or spend 40-50$ on the Dorman or GM evo delete pre-bent section of tube ?
@@Pioneer_Classic_Trucks so the Dorman’ and fvp and all the other remakes are available for a 96 with the bend already in the high pressure line ? Do you recall where and did you put it on a 97+ vehicle or did you just replace it on a 96’ model . I don’t really wanna run the evo delete . Worried it’s just gonna be a joke and leak down the line. Better to have lesser fittings to pose a leak. Then again maybe i will be just fine . I would rather run 96’ pressure line
@@Pioneer_Classic_TrucksLearning a lot about this fix, in fact I am giving the Dorman delete kit a try tomorrow. If it ever fails or leaks I’m gonna try for the 96’ line . One thing I wasn’t aware of is needing ti use a GM output valve fitting or dodge as you show here ? Can these be bought aftermarket as replacements. Or do you have to yank one from a pump ? What year make model did you get the valve from ?
After removing sensor and installing new pump my string was excellent for almost a week and now it's getting hard to turn periodically. Was thinking i need to remove the piston. Do you think this is the problem?
so when you install the bypass kit or the dodge flow control valve, do you remove all the internals from the pump where the evo sensor screwed in too? ( the spring, pin, ball, etc)
@@Pioneer_Classic_Trucks okay thanks for the reply, I installed the bypass kit leaving all those pump internals in there. I had to push the flow control valve down kind of hard because I think it was pushing against the spring until the threads would catch. problem is I still have weak power steering and braking (hydro boost). so now I'm thinking that my power steering pump is bad too.
No one wants to work on my 97 GMC Sierra c3500 it's been discontinued by the dealer which is why I call it a ghost.. one mechanic who's doing the transmission on the other one iron sides I call him out of Burbank in a wheelchair.. with mechanic crew. Said he'd work on both of mine.. but he changed the flex plate on my other 1500 and it blew out in about a week broken transmission connections he said. Originally stated he could not really warranty flex plate for that reason broken bell housing syndrome
My other GMC 1500 in the shop getting new transmission was driving the white ghost I call it.. having other issues but now effing S I can't even drive this one I fear steering component damage with incredible hulk steering phenomenon also brakes have to have incredible hulk legs hydro system variable assist
I don’t remember if it’s possible or not, I think it might be but it’s in a tight spot and hard to see if I remember correctly. It’s not difficult to remove the pump and do the work on the bench.
