That’s such a great idea! I’m planning on replacing the foam with all natural foam and cotton material to replace the polyester in this sofa - I’ll make sure to add this reinforcement to the sofa on the list. Extra support never hurts. I love this sofa so much - my husband and I put two of the chaise lounge/sette sections together creating a daybed to watch movies on. The sofa is so versatile and upgradeable - you can change the legs and buy different fabrics online including linen or leather. The best sofa ikea has ever made - it’s got a timeless mid-century design that works for so many different homes. I’m in Edinburgh and love it. Thanks again for this tip - I’ll be sure to do this 😊
Maybe it's overkill but I much prefer to have another box positioned directly behind the wall and a chase nipple connecting them together and nuts and bolts mating the mounting holes. 0 chance of wire rubbing sharp metal, easy double sided access, and most importantly a clean way and easy way to terminate my EMT connection on the inside. I'm a DIYer but I took the time to do everything in EMT for my building as I find exposed romex or mc cable to look sloppy and cheap. I suppose if your romex is covered by insulation it's fine and with the plastic snap in I doubt the wire will ever rub so this is a decent install.
So instead of testing the obvious to see if other packs work, you assume this is the problem and then fix something that isn’t broken? Been nice to see the actual problem you’re talking about. Another few minutes of my life wasted.
Hi Carl, Sorry, but I have to correct you here. First KUDOS on a well described excellent presentation. But there are a few items that are very important to keep in mind that were left out. You title Indicates this is for the Cat6 Platinum Tools EZ RJ45 connector and you also mention that in your instructions. This is for the Platinum Tools EXex44 (and EZex48) connector In your video you are using the Platinum Tools Ezex44 Connector 100/Jar Accessory Box (202044J), which supports Insulation diameter (conductor) size range: 0.039" To 0.044"/ 1.0 to 1.12 mm, and the Platinum Tools 100061C EXO Crimp Frame with EXO-EX Die Set for ezEX-RJ45 Connectors. This is the correct combination. Also to be noted (IMPORTANT) is For CAT6A, that have thicker insulators, such as direct burrial, plenum, and manufacturers that use thicker insulators, you must use Platinum Tools Ezex48 Connector 100/Jar Accessory Box (202048J) Insulation diameter (conductor) size range: 0.043" - 0.048" (1.09 -1.22 mm). The EZex44 and EZex48 correspond to the different internal insulation diameters. Another feature left out is that in order to accommodate the larger insulator cables, they created the Hi-LO staggered configuration on the But in your video title you mention the Platinum Tools EZ RJ45 These are different (older) connectors and require a different crimping die The EX-RJ45 connectors are: Platinum Tools EZ-RJ45 Cat6 Connector (100) (202010J) They require Platinum Tools 100054C Clamshell EZ-Rjpro Hd Crimp Tool Im sure this was an honest oversight, however, these particular connectors and Crimper combinations should be very carefully matched up within the brand in adition to cross-brands as you indicated. Other than these minor, but important details, your instruction video is excellent. Oh you might also indicate what cable you are terminating.
I have the same question. Every time I cycle my key, my right side locks up for a couple of minutes...Then goes back to working. Where's the Tcu display located?
thanks for the video... do you think it's possible to break apart a 20 v charger and use it to replace the 18 v connection on a old 18 v radio to convert the 18 v radio to a 20 v radio that can also charge 20 v batteries?
Hi Do you know, how to get that "#" symbol on a Fanuc 3T keyboard?? Apparently these things (have a 3T from 1982) can run with variables, but to use these, you need that "#" symbol and I'm unable to get it punched into my machine. Variables would be extremely nice to do multiple passes with reduced diameter.
Carl, you mentioned pump installation with special tool to fit, I noticed you didn't show special tool, how did you work out where it needs to sits so drive gear doesn't lean heavier towards cam or crank, Question, If I drill & tap the end of the old shaft & use slide hammer, Can I just slide without stripping any more of the engine, 👍🤞 Thanks Hreat video,
Matty, Easiest way to remove would be to weld a coupler nut to the end of the pump shaft, slide hammer out. To install, you don’t really need to be exact angle, but you do need to make sure the oil pump passages line up with the passages in the front of the engine block. You mention not getting the drive gear to far to one side or the other…. Take a real close look at how the drive gear and the pump base interact. Clocking the pump a few degrees either way has no effect on the centerline of the pump gear! The only things you need to successfully install the pump are to line up the oil pump passages, and to get the pump started straight into the block. Do pack the new pump with grease or assembly lube, and don’t rotate the assembled engine without the timing cover installed! The oil pump gear nose is supported by the timing cover. I fully assemble, but without injectors or injection pump installed. Then crank over to build oil pressure. Then you can install fuel components, set fuel timing, start!
Carl, Thanks a million for a detailed reply, Just my first time doing an oil pump on this model engine,, I had to remove engine as loss of oil pressure, I was expecting to find the oil pump in amonst the mains or up close to inner timing casing & staryed to fret,Took injection pump out & case off,My loss of oil pressure was due to long shaft holding pump snapped off flush with the alloy body, Timed & removed gear & outer pump, drill & tap broken shaft & withdrew, Then tapped outer alloy body (M14fine) pulled com8ple body from block, Yes your correct about fitting the pump body to block, The pick up journal in the block is quite small, so if new body is aligned & slipped in snuggly all should be good, Carl once again thanks, Top man👍
Hi Carl, Got a query, I disassembled new pump to fit to block, Marked it all up as I took apart, fit oil pump, & then the timing gear & oil pump inner, lined up washer to along with roll pin in timing case, put in oil & put analogue gauge on, fitted starter & spun no oil pressure, what av I done wrong or over looked?, Ta M
@@mattyt758 What did you do to help prime the new pump? Did you completely pack the new pump spaces with a heavy assembly lube? They are extremely hard to prime if you don't use something to establish that initial suction. Next question: this is a chicken/egg question. Have you had the oil pan off and cleaned the sump pickup tube? Made sure the sump gasket is in good shape where it attaches to the block? If you have a suction leak in the pickup tube, you will never get a good prime and will have oiling problems.
@CrawfordMethod Hi Carl, Thanks for your quick response, After watching you vid the first time j put standard grease in around it,& assembled, Pick up pipe cleaned & suction strainer & new gasket fitted & 10lts of 15w40 oil, I had a script from the manual & them perkins Chaps never mentioned filling pump with oil or grease,
I have removed the spring retainer holding the pins for inner gear and manual says to extract the pins I don’t know how to remove those three pins. Can anyone enlighten me?
Thankyou! Just to add there are two positive cables coming off one of the larger terminals… it was one of these that had broken on mine and melted into the frame. Thanks again!
Great video! Brought back a lot of memories. I learned on an Ikegai FX20N with a Fanuc 5T freestanding control. We would send the program from the computer to a Teletype machine only to punch the paper tape. We then took the paper tape and fed into the 5T control using the built-in tape reader. We soon went to using a more modern type (GNT 4601) tape reader/punch machine and mylar tape. We could actually go both directions with the program (punch/Read) and kept a library of all the programs in small plastic boxes. We would set the tools using a microscope on a mag base.
In the 80's we had the same nightmare on a Takisawa TX-1 Fanuc SYSTEM 5T with the tape reader, same freestanding cabinet, no screen, just X-Z read-out and a display for code and wear, only memory for one program, we had also the reader - matrixprinter - puncher unit for tapes, OMG 😁 Biggest trauma was no ref/home position, a simple reset during run or testing ruined the WORK offset position, had to find the reference tool again, other tools had them in the program-code ( G50 style ), there was no GEOM table, only WEAR........ good old days. 🤑
Gd from jamaica question at 2 hrs and 4 min when you try to put the top on if u had screw the bottom on it will suck the top plate in just my opinion because i have done a few and its a fight to get the top in without force but any way i love the video its a lot of teaching u showed i learned a few things from u kooool sir and also tightening it up i thinks its easier hanging the rotator by the pin on the jib if u are by yourself
Thanks for posting this. I went through this process today. Those wipers are a nightmare to remove 😂 but I really appreciate your video. It helped to see the light at the end of the tunnel
I was fortunate to find your video before starting on the inside of my new shop. Now that I've seen this and done it, I couldn't imagine doing it any other way - GAME CHANGING! Thank you for sharing your expertise and instruction.
Great video, thanks! I'm doing the same thing, however since I also have these beautiful painted interior liner panels, why make it ugly with a standard 4x4 box that will also corrode and turn uglier over time? I used grey painted (powder coated?) outdoor 2 gang boxes, with grey outlets and grey plastic covers for a more finished look. I'm also using MC cable to run behind the panels instead of Romex for better protection.
Could you please show why we cannot use other path-trough crimpers with Platinum connectors? Also, as I know we had better use different Platinum’s dies with different their connectors (EZ & EZex), would you mind showing that as well?
Each brand of connectors has a slightly different shape that fits into the crimping die. The connectors and crimpers must line up properly or the connector will get damaged and youll get bad crimps. Using the incorrect crimp tool with the connector will result in a bad connection that will require a do-over, if not now, then later, which is a crappy way to find that someone did not do their homework to use the right tool, or just did not want to fork out the $90 for a tool and thought they'd get by. The latter can cause a large waste of time that can be very expensive to discover (troubleshootng can take hours or even days if its elusive enough) when doing it right the first-time costs very little. Even within platinum tools they have different crimpers. With Cat5, CAT5e and CAT6 (not CAT6A) Platinum Tools made a set of connectors called the EX-RJ45 (then select CAT5 or CAT6). And the crimper for those is Platinum Tools 100054C Clamshell EZ-Rjpro Hd Crimp Tool. The reasons for this, and the CAT6A differences, is Insulation thickness, and the type of cable and bandwidth that are passing through. Back in the day, CAT5, CAT5A, CAT5E all were about the same and rated for 1 GBps at up to 300 ft. CAT6A requires a different philosophy to support 10GBps. Additionally, many different cable companies have a wide difference in Insulation on both the Outer jacket and more importantly, the inner conductor insulation. What this nice guy did nto point out, is that the type of connector supports Insulation diameter (conductor) size range: 0.039" To 0.044"/ 1.0 to 1.12 mm which is appropriate for CAT5E - CAT6. He is using the Platinum Tools Ezex44 Connector 100/Jar Accessory Box (202044J) THIS varies with cable manufacturers. That is also why when doing an installation, to be consistent on cable manufacturer brands because you can run across different quality and insulation diameters that will require different connectors. For CAT6A, that have thicker insulators, such as direct burrial, plenum, and thicker insulators, you must use Platinum Tools Ezex48 Connector 100/Jar Accessory Box (202048J) Insulation diameter (conductor) size range: 0.043" - 0.048" (1.09 -1.22 mm). You can use the same crimper for both connectors for this crimper is for the EXEX44 and 48 (the 44 and 48 relate to the inner insulation max diameter sizes. This sounds like it can mean a lot of frustration, yes, and it is, and its no fun to be on a job site with the incorrect connectors for the cables. Don't ask me how I know these things. So take note.
Multipart answer: Deere does not and cannot flash or reprogram/update the transmission control unit (TCU) like you might do on a modern car. They don’t have a device that gives them more info than you have by just looking at the codes on the TCU display. Part 2: You may have to run the re-calibration procedure. This has multiple steps that have to be done in order, and within a time limit. You will need a copy of the procedure for your S/N machine to make sure you go through the steps correctly. You will need a few hundred feet of flat ground to run machine. Good luck!
My Dewalt 20 V pruning saw, as well as my other saw, started doing the same thing you’re showing here. Once the trigger is released, I have to take off the battery put it back on and then it works until I release the trigger. I’m going to try what you’re telling me here hopefully I get it rightand stop my complete frustration
Hey Carl I bought a DCD999 TY1 about a year back and I've noticed the torque only works intermittently. I returned the first one I bought for another and it seems to be a design problem - just wondering if this issue is common or if mine are just from a bad batch. Let's say torque is set to 1. Minimal resistance should cause the drill to slip. If I set it to 1 and hold the chuck with my hand, it will slip on the first press of the trigger. If I press the trigger again it will turn with full force and not slip. I've learned the hard way a couple times for more delicate work, where I set a low torque setting and turned a screw way too tight when the it refused to slip.
Thank you very much you have saved me from having to buy new drill ! The yellow wire has come away from soldering bad design for the price of these drills ..... 😡
My Cayenne just started doing the hazard flashing error with no chirp. I read their is a LION battery in that module that dies and kills the board when it does. I'm going to reference this when I replace it, thanks for the video!
