Shibura 844LT oil pump 

BrassBuilder, did you get it running? Another thing you can do is to not install the injectors and injection pump, then fill engine with oil and bolt the starter to it. Crank the engine to build oil pressure and check for leaks. The engine will spin with very little resistance because it has no compression with the injectors removed. Then you can install injectors and pump, set your spill valve injection timing and adjust pump shims if needed. Once you do that, it should fire right up and purr!

@@CrawfordMethod Yes! About three weeks ago. Once it got fuel, it fired right up and now after the glow plug light goes out, it fires right up instantly. I had a couple of minor coolant leaks and a faulty thermostat. But a thermostat replacement and tightening a couple of bolts fixed both of those problems. Now I moved onto a larger problem. The New Holland L220 hydraulics are locked out and I can't raise the arms back up to raise the cab. Talking to the local NH skidsteer mechanic, he thinks it might be from when I power washed the cow crap residue out (1.5 hours with the power washer and then another 4.5 hours with a garden hose sprayer for more control) and the water/cow crap mix might have corroded a lockout solenoid under the cab....but as stated....I can't raise the cab, because I can't raise the arms because I don't have any hydraulics. The unit drives just fine though which I find strange. The local NH dealer is supposed to pick it up tomorrow (8/22 or 8/23) and they are going to figure it out. I don't have any safe way to lift the bucket arms.

@@BrassBuilder The drive pumps and implement pumps are three different things, do you have any implement functions that work? Lift, bucket, aux? There is a valve block underneath where the pedals connect, this has the lock spool solenoid in it. If you could locate the wire that feeds this inside the cab, you might be able to "inject" 12V to it and unlock the functions so you can raise the arms. First things to check: There is probably a "Run/Service" switch hidden in the fuse panel area. Make sure this is in the "run" position. Service position locks out the bucket functions. Key must be in the "On" position, butt in seat, seatbelt on. At this point you should be able to press the unlock button and move the machine, and to operate the foot pedals for bucket functions. Here is the next question: Can you push the pedals after you do these steps, or are they still locked? If the pedals unlock but no bucket movement, you should suspect the implement pump shaft has snapped or you have a hydraulic issue. If they are still locked, continue diagnosing the solenoids. I am making you a little video, check for it this evening.

@@CrawfordMethod I am pretty much following all of your diagnosis so far. This is probably all for mute now since the local NH dealer picked it up Monday and now they have it. I know about the valve under the pedals but I couldn't get to them...or didn't know how to get to it...without being able to raise the cab. I did NOT know about that silly little "Run/Service" switch in the fuse panel area. That one is a new one on me. I was in the fuse panel area and I replaced all the fuses (and cleaned the fuse block with electronic cleaner) and switched all the relays around but I did not see that switch while I had my head someone poked down in that foot well. .....Here's the thing. When I started it and unlocked the park with the lighted push button with the 7,8,9,0 (hydraulics unlock) above it, that light kept blinking. If I remembered correctly, I *thought* that light went out once everything was good to go when we first brought the machine in back in Feb. Once I press that button now, the park light goes out, I can move the machine, 2 speed works, the pedals on the floor works (they tilt back and forth), but my hydraulics are locked out...but the 7,8,9,0 button is a constant blinking. I should not say the cylinders are completely locked. They is some movement. Something like 3/4" in the main arms and just a slight movement in the bucket arms. I don't know about the aux as I do not have anything to hook up to that. But I will as I just ordered a set of hydraulic forks for it on Monday. Thanks so much for the replies Carl. Maybe this will help some poor owner of an L220 in the future. Thanks.

Matty, Easiest way to remove would be to weld a coupler nut to the end of the pump shaft, slide hammer out. To install, you don’t really need to be exact angle, but you do need to make sure the oil pump passages line up with the passages in the front of the engine block. You mention not getting the drive gear to far to one side or the other…. Take a real close look at how the drive gear and the pump base interact. Clocking the pump a few degrees either way has no effect on the centerline of the pump gear! The only things you need to successfully install the pump are to line up the oil pump passages, and to get the pump started straight into the block. Do pack the new pump with grease or assembly lube, and don’t rotate the assembled engine without the timing cover installed! The oil pump gear nose is supported by the timing cover. I fully assemble, but without injectors or injection pump installed. Then crank over to build oil pressure. Then you can install fuel components, set fuel timing, start!

Carl, Thanks a million for a detailed reply, Just my first time doing an oil pump on this model engine,, I had to remove engine as loss of oil pressure, I was expecting to find the oil pump in amonst the mains or up close to inner timing casing & staryed to fret,Took injection pump out & case off,My loss of oil pressure was due to long shaft holding pump snapped off flush with the alloy body, Timed & removed gear & outer pump, drill & tap broken shaft & withdrew, Then tapped outer alloy body (M14fine) pulled com8ple body from block, Yes your correct about fitting the pump body to block, The pick up journal in the block is quite small, so if new body is aligned & slipped in snuggly all should be good, Carl once again thanks, Top man👍

Hi Carl, Got a query, I disassembled new pump to fit to block, Marked it all up as I took apart, fit oil pump, & then the timing gear & oil pump inner, lined up washer to along with roll pin in timing case, put in oil & put analogue gauge on, fitted starter & spun no oil pressure, what av I done wrong or over looked?, Ta M

@@mattyt758 What did you do to help prime the new pump? Did you completely pack the new pump spaces with a heavy assembly lube? They are extremely hard to prime if you don't use something to establish that initial suction. Next question: this is a chicken/egg question. Have you had the oil pan off and cleaned the sump pickup tube? Made sure the sump gasket is in good shape where it attaches to the block? If you have a suction leak in the pickup tube, you will never get a good prime and will have oiling problems.

@CrawfordMethod Hi Carl, Thanks for your quick response, After watching you vid the first time j put standard grease in around it,& assembled, Pick up pipe cleaned & suction strainer & new gasket fitted & 10lts of 15w40 oil, I had a script from the manual & them perkins Chaps never mentioned filling pump with oil or grease,

Is it possible to complete the engine installation video?

Puedes ayudarme

Ronald, Hmm, nothing comes to mind that would cause that. Was it the same crank or a replacement crank? That distance is probably controlled almost exclusively by the thrust washers on the bearing system between cyl 2-3. Do you have a thrust clearance within specs? (put a test indicator on crank and gently pry crank front and rear.) I believe the timing gear is fixed on the crank, not easily removable, so unless it was a replacement crank that would not be easily movable. One thing I had to deal with was that the aftermarket oil pump I got did not have the edges of the gear clearanced, so when I tried to install the timing cover it interfered. I had to mill a small clearance in the timing cover to give room for the "sharp" edges of the new oil pump. The oem pump had the edges of the gears chamfer ground. Hope that might help.

It was a replacement crank assembled by a machine shop that no longer is in operation. All the bottom end was correctly installed. So I'm figuring the wrong crank. I might get to the bottom of it today. Great video by the way!

There are two oil pump sizes. In the end of this video you can see me discover that I have installed the “small” pump when I needed the “large” pump. You should get the correct pump and keep the engine/timing cover a matched pair. The governor is in the cover, and is not adjustable.

@@CrawfordMethod yes I got with the company and they are sending me the 52mm pump free of charge. I feel that this is really a poor design for and oil pump. Thank you for the reply.

I was lucky that the machine shop I used was able to borrow the tool from the local New Holland dealer. The tools is made by OTC, but it looks like OTC does not sell it direct, you would have to buy it through a New Holland dealer. I have had good luck getting parts online from www.messicks.com. That said, after using the tool I think you could get by without it, as long as you carefully line up the oil passages in the block and pump, and use a solid driver block to drive the pump in. While making this video, near the end I realized that the pump you see installed here is the wrong one! My engine takes the large version of the pump, and we installed the small version. While installing the thrust washer over the pump, I noticed that the anti-rotation features of the washer were not going to engage the features in the sheet metal backing plate on the engine. Doh! I had to pull this brand-new pump out and get the correct one and re-install. Then while assembling the new pump onto the shaft, I found that the shaft was rotating, the nut on the back was loose and defective. Had to remove the oil pan to get a wrench on it. The oil pump and timing cover are now finally assembled. Very fussy oil pump setup.

how far back does what go? does what set itself?

@@CrawfordMethod my old one broke the shaft. Pulled it out and never checked to see how far in the block the oil block goes.

@@brakestar4157 Yes the pump only goes back until it is solidly against the block, cant get it in too far. But you do need to get it started straight, and with the oil passages aligned correctly with the block.

Kind of late, but you have to use the installation tool. Cost me about $200.

Brian ***** , if you don’t have the “special tool” I think the easiest way to pull out the pump would be to use a slide hammer. You could weld a coupler nut to the pump shaft.

Carl Crawford well our pump shaft was busted off so we drilled and tapped for 7/16" next to it,the pump is aluminum so that was a breeze and made a slide hammer and it came right out. Otherwise you're pulling the whole engine apart oil pan, camshaft, crankshaft head everything according to Caterpillar to drive out the pump....... waste of 1 full day.

Brian ***** you cant even get any room to swing a hammer inside the block, so I don’t think that would even help. If you can’t borrow the special tool to align and drive in the new pump, I think you would have good luck visually aligning the oil passages and making a simple driver block with a hole in it for the pump shaft. Double check the nut that retains the pump shaft, the aftermarket pump that I got had a poorly fitting nut, and it was finger tight. After installing the pump, packing the troichoids with grease, and adjusting the shims, you can slide the timing cover on. You cannot turn the crankshaft/oil pump idler/cam without the timing cover on! The oil pump rides in a machined bore in the timing cover, and that is what takes all the side load of the idler gear. If you turn the engine over without the timing cover on you risk bending the oil pump shaft.

Carl Crawford Thanks Carl