This is a channel for anyone who is a passionate about the "how to" on automotive related topics and projects. It is my goal that the videos in this channel will help you learn about automotive topics, give you some ideas/insights for DIY projects, and/or help you maintain/repair your own vehicle(s).
Am i ever grateful to have found this video. I have watched it more than a dozen times. I too have an old JCB backhoe. Its a 3C1400 4wd vintage version and i am about to do a whole bunch of reno work to it in the spring summer this year. The prior owners (its an ex gov machine) rewired it somewhere in its life. The wiring is a bit of a mess and it still has the old style dash with printed circuit board and little lamps. I have researched dozens of gauges and have a question to ask. Could you confirm that for most of the senders for temp etc you changed the sender /sensor that was fitted for that location on the block / location where you were measuring say temp or pressure. I ask this because the original dash had only the lights that indicate a fault kind of go no go logic which to me means the sensor was on /off basically switching to ground the live leg of the dash indicator lamp to make it go on if a fault existed. To go electric and have moving coil gauges must mean you changed the sender/sensor. Am i correct in my assumption. Here is to hoping you see this comment as the video is pretty old by now. I wish to do precisely the same as you have done except my original tachometer is still working perfectly and has the hours for the machine on it. Thanks for making the video.
Please keep in mind that JCB and Massy Ferguson are close cousins when it comes to gauges. If I remember correctly, I think I bought the gauges on Ebay for a MF tractor; and, everything worked well with the set on the JCB. I did also buy a fuel sending unit - but, I think I ended up buying that one from a JCB parts place on-line. Good luck on your project!
Thanks for the video. I'm sure that I'm nitpicking, but I came to this video trying to find out if a clockspring can be DIY refurbished, taken apart, examined for the fault and possibly cleaned out and reused. Before anyone gets all worked up about that idea, there are several components on vehicles including Ford's where you can actually restore them to good operation if the problem is one typical of older vehicles, where the contacts corrode and the factory grease hardens. Unfortunately I saw your title was "repair" and you didn't repair the clockspring, instead replaced it. Just a thought but the video title would have better been "clockspring replacement" rather than clockspring repair.
The clock spring has a limited stroke - I would recenter the wheel - you can do this by adjusting the tie-rods on the wheels - or steering wheel. If you adjust it using tie rods, I put a dial indicator to measure the movement - to make sure that both wheels have been moved equally.
no sure on this one - there is an inertia switch on the floor - adjacent to the firewall on the center transmission hump. It could be the inertia switch, air bags, or connections.
My mirror popped out and I used this process to reinstall except instead of zip ties, I used kite string and tied a simplified quick release hitch knot which is basically a simple knot with one end being a loop. Draw the string end in to tighten the knot onto the spreaded pin, and leave a long tail from the loop so when the pin is seated, just pull the tail and the knot releases and is pulled out the bottom.
Thanks for the video! I'm replacing my damaged manual mirrors after it got hit by a garbage truck and wanted to see what the inside of it looked like before popping off my old broken one.
Awesome video, I had to put a junkyard mirror on today on a super duty and it was clicking when you adjusted the mirror. I had good clips but had to spread the little spring out farther so they would engage. I actually had to pinch one with a long reach needle nose and held it there while turning the mirror down to get the first one engaged in the gear. Then I did the same with the other one and turned the mirror left or right. Then just a small thump with my palm to seat the main clip. Works like it's supposed to, and I didn't have to go back to the junkyard for a refund because that was the only one they had. Greatly appreciate it man I may not have figured it out without breaking the most important part
Sorry to say this (realize this is an old video and you put a lot of time into it) - but what a let down to not record and show an after drive from inside the cab so we can all hear too.... I'm dying here!
What kind of interference do you shoot for? Is it size-on-size, or .0005 per inch in diameter? More? Maybe I should do a shrink test on my sleeve and see how much I can get out of it. I am thinking of foregoing the Loctite and just dropping it in after the liquid Nitrogen bath. Thanks, Mark
Haha i took one out and replaced last night outside in dark with flashlights.. it was cold and pouring rain. I had removed the passenger side motor mounts and jacked up the engine and rolled it out somehow fighting it for hours between the injection pump/ timing belt area... By the time all said and done with hand tools took me 12 hours plus the fact in pouring rain and the dark..
Thank you, that buzzing was exactly my symptom. HVAC guy took off the panel and saw all the ants. $300 to replace a $20 part. But I learned a lot, so paid for expertise. Would it have been worth it to just buy the $20 part and replace by myself?
Matthew - The power supply is 220volts which can be lethal if you are not aware of how to safely replace the relay. With that being said, I always keep a spare capacitor and relay for the AC outdoor unit. They are cheap items and are often the root cause for the AC not working. (FYI - Capacitors can also be lethal - as they are "charged" like a battery and can electrocute a person.)
The seal is for 1 1/2 inch core TP. The last Great Value 1000 had a core size too big for the Frantz core seal. The better designed top loaders have a 2 inch core seal.at the bottom. The design of the Frantz makes it difficult to deal with the paper cores too big for the Frantz seal. It wasnt long ago the Great Value 1000 had a 1 1/2 inch core.and you had to remove about 30 rounds of paper. When I bought the last Great Value 1000 the core was larger and the diameter of the roll was the right size. On the Frantz if you dont see a strong screen imprint and a good seal imprint it hasnt been filtering. The better designed top loaders have about a 2 inch core seal. Since you are pushing the paper down against the seal you dont need a seal between the aluminum tube and the paper core. In the old days when TP fit the Frantz many times the core stayed on the tube and had to be peeled off.
I didnt see a seal imprint on the used roll. I doubt that it was cleaning the oil.If you are going to use the shorter TP in a Frantz you need to know what you are doing. You clearly dont know what you are doing. Watching you young guys demonstrating how to change the Frantz is embarrassing. The top loaders you just push the paper down against the bigger seal and put on the lid.. with the Frantz you need to use the Frantz elements or know how to use toilet paper. When I used the Frantz toilet paper fit. No wonder you are changing it too often. The oil is bypassing the core seal. You are not the only Frantz user that dont know how to use toilet paper.
My horn and cruise do not work but airbag light doesn't blink. Anything else I should look at or most likely clockspring? 01 7.3 with automatic tyranny.
I got a 1400b an man this thing givng me all kinda problems . Getting no fuel in the fuel filter . but injecter pump full of fuel. got no pressure coming out of the injector pump . i think i have the same problem in getting it primed . I have a Question . does you fuel filter have Holes at the top of the fuel filter . or is it flat shape with no hole's
I seem to recal that there are holes on the top - FYI ... there's another fuel filter screen in the injector pump (at the fuel inlet). Take that apart and clean it. Also - take video when you pull the filter related parts out - if you do not assemble it correctly, the injection pump will not build pressure
@@ProjectsbyTMD hey buddy sorry for the long awaited reply . 1 we got another pump 2 new fuel filter 3 found out the fuel filter oil ring went into the filter in stead of the housing so now i got fuel filling the fuel filter boil, bled each line they squrting fuel go to start it still nothing . bled each injector there's alot of fuel coming a nice little bead go to start it still will not hit a lick. spray some diesel dope (Ether) she fire's right up then die's Keep giving her the dope she will run . but once you stop she just die's . i think i ether i got a air someone stuck in the system. or the injector's are bad even thou i clean them an they seemed to be in good shape . i checked the back of the injector pump there no trash no nothing . i mite just bled is more .
This doesn't directly relate to your video, but it is close enough that maybe you could point me to a solution. At higher speeds + strong headwinds, the hinges on my mirror don't have enough tension and the whole mirror housing will fold back. Do you know how to access the hinges and whether there is a way to increase their tension?
Excellent... very smooth. Seen this done a lot of different ways but I think you definitely did this the best I have seen. Thank for sharing. Definitely going to try to do this next time. The other option I'm a fan of is just pull the intake manifold. Good opportunity to clean it and the alt comes out really easily with the manifold out. And it really isn't too much work.
I just got the Jackmaster filter in from Australia. Like the others they have their own elements. They dont have the center tube. The paper core is the center tube. Its the strongest of them all. You push the element down against the core seal. When you start the engine the oil pressure pushes the core down against the seal harder. Thats the advantage of the top loaders. Looks like I will need a wrench to remove the lid and some long nosed pliers to. Grab some paper and pull out the TP. The Jackmaster element is high quality with a fabric cover with a ring to remove it. Been using Great Value 1000. Looks like the rolls are getting smaller and the cores are getting larger. The Jackmaster is able to handle it. My first Frantz cost me 29.95 with hose and fittings. I just paid about 250 bucks counting shipping from Australia. Didnt need it. Everything I have with an oil pump is equipped. Had to see one. I got the Classic. As far as I can tell it is the strongest. Some of them are going to the military. I can see why. I see Jackmaster has an optional air fitting to push out the excess oil before changing. You could do that with a Frantz. I once put a self tapping hollow bolt in the top of a Frantz for a pressire gauge. I can normally install the filters so the air can enter the filter and allow the oil to drain. You have to know what you are doing to service a Frantz. With the Jackmaster and the Gulf Coast junior its a matter of pushing the new roll down against the seal hard. The oil comes up thru the core and pushes down on the element. The problem people are having with the Frantz is the seal is designed for 1 1/2 inch paper. The seal is too small for the bigger cores and the shorter paper is being pushed in too far. When I started using the Frantz in 1963 almost all paper fit. The paper changed and the Frantz didnt. The AeroFrantz and the cars used 2 ply facial quality paper. Single ply was loose wound junk. Looks like even larger cores are here now. The improved filters can handle them. They are trying to save paper.
Had an engine that would run great for 5 to 10 mins under full throttle then die like its out of fuel each time. Reprime and would start but same thing time and time again. Come to find out fuel sediment bowl which is made out of Polycarbonate clear plastic so you can see it had several cracks in the bowl and must of been sucking air under full throttle. I believe the Bowl cracked cause some water got into it over time and froze over the winter. Had about little less than a cup of water and slime in sediment bowl. Just something to check
