Oh wow, the more I watch the better it gets, people always freak out when I tell them I hammer liners out so its great to see some else do it. Many years ago when I was in my 20s I figured if I put the old piston in upsidedown the rings would catch hold of the liners lip and I used a piece of hard wood and a sledge hammer and thrashed the liners out, worked a treat. to put the new ones in I used another block of hardwood and the big hammer, it worked perfectly! # think outside the box!
OMG pure genius, I love a mind like yours which thinks "what can I use that does more than one job". I live by the code myself after all why spend a fortune on a single dedicated tool when you have a whole set of other uses in that kit. Thank you so much for posting this video :-)
Damn, bolt a strong back across the bottom of the crankcase, put a small bottle jack or hydraulic ram between it and your "puck," and get after it. The wood is absorbing all of your force, and that's why you have to hit it with a hammer, you shouldn't have to. I do dry sleeves all the time and could have had all four out before you could get that device rigged up. By the way, a machine shop can make that puck out of a piece of scrap metal for at or less than the cost of that wheel bearing removal set from harbor freight, but then again, I have that set as well as the whole ball joint toolset, and they are handy for all kinds of things around a shop. Great for those upper control arm bushings attached to 4x4 Jeep front axels.
Could you pack the cylinder with dry ice (with a rag stuffed on top for insulation) and do all the pulling from the top? Regardless, Great Video and very appreciative that you took the time to make this series!
Know my way around these engines.Really,if your doing it for a customer you should get them non finished and get them bored out to original spec.Otherwise the new liner tends to follow the bore if slightly tapered or oval.But great job .
Outstanding ingenuity! Thanks for this. Is that a water-cooled air conditioning system visible at 8:40 atop the Janitrol furnace? The shutoff valve on the extra PVC pipe looks like it may be a water feed. Have been thinking about using well water as a low-cost A/C system assist and this reminded me of it.
Erichhh Thanks for the complement! On another project, I completely overhauled the Goodman/Janitrol AC system. I installed thermostatically controlled pressure expansion valves on the indoor and outdoor units to get more energy out of the AC/heat pumps. On the indoor units, I just completely replaced the evaporator & put on PVC valves to turn off the air bleed for water condensation. I only turn them off during the winter - since one need to have the valve open when the AC is on during the summer.
Thanks for this. I just pulled liners on a MF 275. Perkins a4.248 50 years old. I welded 8 vertical beads and pulled with a large washer and assorted back ups. Came out really easy. Love your bearing puller. Did you mic any of the bores before / after? What size all thread ? Looks like 1/2". I used that but because i welded. I saw a guy use 3/4" thrd bar and no tapping. Brute force but it worked. I took out all four liners. Thanks!
I have a Massey 255 that needs a sleeve and piston....Sleeve is cracked at the top about 1/2" long downward and piston has been indented from a dirt dobber nest going through no. 4...My bad for not pulling the intake first...DOOH! This will help me...
Hi! my name is Roberto, have a small question! while removing the sleeve by turning the puller,would it have help to fill the old sleeve with ice and salt mixture or dry ice,(salted ice doesn't go has much down has dry ice but get down lower than regular ice) and if not would it be overdone to put dry ice in the sleeve has you remove it?
Not a welder, but I would assume that the liner doesn't expand much when it's welded (as it has a big thermal mass and is heatsinked by the block) but the weld bead goes on very very hot indeed, hence shrinks a little as it cools, thus pulling in the diameter of the liner.
