This video shows how dry ice (frozen carbon dioxide) is used to superchill the dry sleeve cylinder liners and install them in the cylinder bore with ease. The engine in the video is a Perkins Diesel 4.236.
1 gallon of acetone in a metal bucket along with placing dry ice in the acetone will shrink the line without attracting moisture that forms ice crystals. Applied sealant (minimum amount, remember it is a zero fit) will not ball up during the sleeve drop. What happens is the acetone prevents moisture from forming and the temp from the dry ice prevents the acetone from boiling off. Yes, it boils off, it does not evaporate, in normal ambient temps. You;ll be amazed at how easy it all goes back together with this method.
I'd recommend to everyone to take the bare block less everything, liners and the like to an engine shop so the can put it in an acid bath to clean it up, this will show up any defects, there is no point putting new parts in until the all clear is given on the status of the old block, also the liners should be unfinished as the block will distort the liners, the liners have to be finished off in block so they are perfectly round, I rebuilt my 318 Perkins engine and it runs like a clock.
Have a question for anyone who may know and can answer working on a 71 ford 3000 tractor diesel and wanting to know what’s the piston to sleeve clearance supposed to be thanks in advance
Cool method! What about the condensation that forms on the exterior of the liner between removal from the dry ice and insertion into the bore? Isn't some minute amount of moisture trapped between the surfaces? Is so, what is the consequence of that, if any?
I've been rebilling a1985 John Deere front loader backhoe and I don't know how tight l should have the rod bairrings should be. Can someone let me know. Thank you so much.
What kind of interference do you shoot for? Is it size-on-size, or .0005 per inch in diameter? More? Maybe I should do a shrink test on my sleeve and see how much I can get out of it. I am thinking of foregoing the Loctite and just dropping it in after the liquid Nitrogen bath. Thanks, Mark
I noticed you have a crack on the deck from a bolt hole. I have the same engine with a similar crack. I was told that these blocks have a history of doing this. Many people report having these cracks, and run the engine for decades with no issues. I was also told that it wouldn’t present any problem because the fact it is a dry sleeve, and the liner height along with head gasket would prevent anything from leaking into the cylinder. My question is, will this be an issue or not before I rebuild this block?
They are a very tight fit - you can press them in. If you try to use a hammer, you'll likely damage the liner. Using dry ice is the easiest method for installation.
The problem is when you drop them in like that you can't be sure they are tight enough fit into the bore. What I do is drop them in but not all the way down, leave them 2" (or something) up and pull them down with a puller. That way you can feel how tight fit the liner is, and also it is easy to apply Loctite to them. I have seen blocks that have maybe one liner go in to the bore way too easy, and seems that there is variation in liner measurements too, especially aftermarket ones.
+Budd Hudd When the loctite makes contact with the chilled liner, it "balls up" into pieces of loctite. Thus, it does not flow properly when in contact with a very cold surface.
