I'm Eric Snow and I'm here to help you work on and play with your Classic American Car. I'm a drag Racer and Classic Car enthusiast with love of all kinds of cars. I'll show you the ins and outs and the repairs and modifications as well as bring you tools that have helped me along the way. I want to help you save time and money so that you can spend the money where it really matters and not take away from your family.
I have a 88 cutlass with the stock 307 motor. It sputters most the time but sometimes runs good. I got new plug/wires and I even replaced the carb and fuel pump. Compression is good so idk what else it could be. My exhaust smells super rich yet I did jet down the carb and I have the same issue. Now I’m wondering if it’s something to do with my timing , this car was computer controlled but someone removed all the wires and smog when they removed the Rochester carb. My plan is to install a cheap eBay distributor with vacuum advance and see how it goes. I hope it works.
When going from computer controlled to non computer controlled, you need the carb and distributor to be non computer controlled. What are your plugs looking like? That's the giveaway of how it's running. Just because you jetted down may not fix a rich, especially at idle, condition. You'll want to adjust your idle circuits, too.
@@SnowFamilyRacing yeah I already have a edelbrock, and I installed the new distributor with vacuum advance today. Shot the timing to 20degrees. Now I can actually drive the car. Plus is doesn’t burn your eyes as much. lol It still has issues though. I noticed when shooting the ignition timing. It would run way pass the 20 degree mark when revved slightly, 12-1500rpm Is that normal? Yes the vacuum advance hose is disconnected.
I have a class b RV, my propane tank fill is in the rear of van. It’s in a place nearly impossible to fill. Due to the tire carrier I’ve hook into my receiver. Can this work for you me if I want to fill my tank at a fill station?
This goes between the tank and the regulator. The regulator is typically at the tank, you'll want to look at it and figure out where the regulator is and if this placed in line with it.
Here's a video on the machine ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-T9FTUEQkQ3Q.html I've also got a few upgrades that I'll be covering soon, too.
Bro I gotta tell ya, so I got an old squarebody Chevy, ‘85, and it’s just missing a little something and I’m not big on understanding the whole thing about what I would call upgraded ignitions so I punched this up and it was great, so I’m gonna try this out, so thanks for doing this
I totally understand! There's a lot of misinformation around upgrades, my intent is to show the best bang for the buck, what can be done, and what makes sense. I've played with stock stuff, through my MSD ignition boxes and there is definitely a place for each one. Quick word of caution, with the '85 you will want to know if you have the computer controlled ignition and carburetor. If you do, this part will not do any good since it's not compatible with the computer controlled stuff. I think '85 may be one of the last years of the non-computer stuff for GM trucks, don't quote me on that year I'm working from memory. Best of luck with the squarebody! I'm a fan of the '80's GM stuff!
That can be an issue. If I were to add a relay for a system like the ignition system, it would be using a keyed source. I tend to favor keeping the OE style ignition switch and using it to trigger functions.
I did a few aluminum carbs in simple green, they seemed to get darker gray and if in too long, they leave a white powdered residue as they dry. Trying pinesol cleaner next time.
The MSD module has been absolutely trouble-free in that Monte Carlo since I put it in. I'm finding that Napa is a better source for OE style electrical components, but that's no guarantee they'll live long. I've had new Napa components fail far too early. The MSD is a great choice and definitely worth the money and peace of mind to never mess with it again.
I've got an H.E.I. on my 1973 Chef K20. It was installed by a super old school mechanic in the San Fernando Valley of Los Angeles, back in (oh) 2008. It made that truck run so well, for so long. I needed to sell the truck a few years ago to get it off the property, and my dad put a new battery in it, but he reversed polarity (the wires themselves were reverse color-coded) bummer. Hasn't started since. I don't know the vintage of the HEI as it is not stock. From watching your video I think I'm going to just pull out the module and take it over to Auto-zone. I hope they can match something up. You didn't need to check the timing after pulling the cap?
I might on my race car, not on this one. There's a locating detent that the cap fits into so that that only goes on in one orientation. The common module is the 4 pin for non computer controlled engines. There's a 7 and 9 pin variant for the computer controlled models. For the parts store people, just about any Chevy V8 car or truck used the same part. My go-to for stuff like this is a 78 Monte Carlo with a 350. That gets me the common things like a module.
If you go to my website, I've got a link and a 10% discount code for Topdon jump packs. These are professional tools, not some junk off Amazon. The best part is they don't come at a crazy price tag.
I'd recommend this video I made. This one walks you through what to verify from the battery to the distributor. You'll want to check for power all along the way until you find the issue. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DjIHk0C2WCg.html
If I had a garage with 40 foot vaulted ceilings that's bigger than my house, should I even care? Your flexing your garage. It's like the guy with cars who shows his Lamborghini when his viewers don't but with a garage. I can prob fit 2-3 of my houses in there
It's a 30x30 with a 12 foot wall, no I'm not flexing anything. I have old stuff, 2 Gbodies, a '56 Olds 88, nothing newer than 2006. I lucked into this one, and I'm making it work for me. I'm a machinist by trade, and I value making stuff from raw stock. Thanks for your comment. If you want to see flex, I'm not your guy.
I’m going in! I can’t imagine the crap that’s in there. However I would hang onto those carb gaskets … you never know. And there in lies the problem. Nut bolts clips speial wire ends, tools cut or bent for a specific job It cost’s nothing to own something you probably willnever use. But if you or even better a work mate comes across that one application that needs some of your junk, You are the Hero.
I've got a storages place to dump the weird stuff, and things that still have life. I know I packed stuff in a hurry before I moved here, in surprised what I've held on to! More organization required!
By the way...make sure you use the low resistance rotor button. If your car sees regular street or highway duty, the stock rotor button WILL melt the distributor cap.
The reason there is a 594' and 1254' foot clocks is because your mile per hour readings are not taken from a radar gun, they are a mathematical figure of time and distance. Your speed is figured from a cone to cone measurement of how many seconds it took you to travel 66 feet, it just happens that Flying H has the ability to print an elapsed time to those points where other tracks don't bother with those numbers. The 594' cone starts your 1/8 mile MPH and the 660' stops it, the same applies to the 1254' and the 1320' for your 1/4 mile MPH.
I was under the impression that the cones were 60' short as opposed to 66'. It's not wildly useful data in most circumstances. I could see an aggressive top end driver could use those as an extra data point. I did notice that those times were not listed on last night's time slips. It would be nice to get the left lanes 330' times working!
Not yet. I probably should run the valves on my El Camino, I haven't done that in a while. It's a hydraulic flat tappet cam and lifter. It's still worth looking at since that engine gets beat on pretty hard.
Hi so my husband wants me to ask why this keeps going out we know what this part is we have changed it out many time but do not know why it keeps going out also changed out the whole distributor did not change anything sill goes out we order 2 at a time have ordered cheap and expensive no difference please help if you can
There are a few reasons. First, there's a quality problem with where the current off the shelf parts are made. I've had the best luck with Napa for off the shelf electrical parts. Next, you may have a voltage issue like the alternator may be putting out too much voltage. The engine may also have a grounding issue. Check both power and ground. Lastly, I've got another video on my channel about swapping to the MSD ignition module. I've done that on several cars and haven't had to mess with them again. Between all of those things, you should find an answer.
Thanks! Some good Dr with a Yellow 1964 Buick Special introduced it to me! Now I use it to play the game better! Hmmm... bracket racing a hopped up Nailhead... Could be fun!
I have an 85 Chevy pickup with an hei. A while ago, I went to start it and had no spark. I grounded plugs and had nothing. I changed out the cap, rotor and coil and still had nothing. Randomly one day it fired back up and I drove it for a couple days. Then all of a sudden, it died on me and I had the same issue again. I believe that this is the issue, but this is my first vehicle that I have ever worked on. Any thoughts? Thanks!
Intermittent issues are likely caused by loose connections. You need a wiring diagram and start chasing wires to ensure you have good connections everywhere. If the steering column is loose at the tilt mechanism, that can push on the ignition switch funny and cause problems. I've got a video about reading wiring diagrams, that video also has a link to an electrical diagnostic checklist. I've also got plans for several electrical diagnostic and troubleshooting videos. Stay tuned!
This one is bolted through the skin. I don't know if passenger side mirrors were an option on these. If you marked it all out and made sure everything was properly rust proofed, I don't see why you couldn't to that.
That's actually a Street Demon carb made by Demon. It's kinda thermoquad, kinda Edelbrock, kinda weird. It works well enough, and I haven't had to mess with the tune in ages. I set it and forgot it. At the time, the car needed a carb faster than I could piece together a Qjet from my stash. Deep down, I'm a Qjet guy.
I have a 94 gmc Sonoma. I’ve replaced the distributor cap and rotor, the fuel filter, and the coil and the battery, I’m gonna a try this and I hope it will resolve my issue. Car turns over but no crank distributor gets no arc/power
I have a 1987 Ls monte carlo that has been stolen and after I got it back the transmission is weird? The reverse is gone and goes forward in neutral. Park feels like it wants take off? Do you happen to ever hear of this situation? V8 305 engine.
First, you'll want to check to make sure all the detects are lined up correctly. Put the shifter in park and make sure that the transmission is correctly in park, then do the same with low. Beyond that, I don't have any idea without putting my hands on it. Check the transmission fluid for twinkly metal or excessive clutch material, as well as if the fluid is burned. Those may give clues.
This crusty one may get wire wheeled, painted, greased and bolted back down. I've learned that it may be nice to have a bigger vise, a smaller one still has plenty of usefulness.
My car started running bad. Then a fuse burned up for the ignition. I traced a solid black wire from my MSD 7AL to find the nut holding the wire to ground was off and the black ground wire was against the body. So once I put a new nut on it. Boom, started and running fine.
