I'm @coryinmotion and this channel serves a liaison between my toys and your eyeballs. I'll be posting up everything from vehicle installs, upgrades, and reviews to track events, off-roading trips and everything in between.
My professional background consists of 15+ years building race cars and working for private racing teams and shops, plus many years included as a hobbyist from childhood. I hope to share my knowledge and passion with you here.
Currently there are 3 vehicles in my personal collection, a 1997 Honda Civic track car project, a new 2020 Toyota Tacoma off-road and tow vehicle, and a 2019 Yamaha MT-09 motorcycle. Expect some fun coverage from all three vehicles as well as some of my friends unique vehicles in the future!
I look forward to bringing you more interesting RU-vid content!
@@coryinmotion I will. Will be checking out your channel for more. Working on my civic project. I knew there was something to be done about this issue. It a part now, so luckily no fiddling around.
@@judegaines7074 EG Chassis is smaller and shorter with different shapes in the footwell where the firewall is. I mean, you could probably use them but it wont be an exact fit . It will not look the greatest.
Those are not rare you can still purchase them. If they were grey with the passenger Honda H logo and the driver side saying civic those are super rare but black ones are still available for purchase on jhp and tons of other places.
Thank you for this. I kept looking through honda-tech forums finding a good source for quicker steering for my ek as well. I knew the option of the steering rack from an integra but didn't want to go through the headache of trying to purchase a whole rack and installing it. This really simplifies everything! Thanks Cory!
@@FFdextrous only if you’re looking for a special model. Lots of integra 4 doors that are base model that can still be found, but it’s definitely getting harder.
In what regard? Like eliminate more play? Yes you can, but only so much. Stiffer shifter bushings and using a kit to remove the stabilizer bar all together could help a bit more. Coupled with something like a hybrid racing shifter you can get rid of a lot of play. Check out my other video about the shifter and bushings, plus the detent springs. You’ll get pretty good shifter feel after that.
@@coryinmotion yeah I just tightened it up to my liking as it came pretty loose compared to oem one. I have a ktuned x series shifter with it. And new ktuned bushings. Not to bad of a feel but could be improved. And yeah was going to flush tranny and do the detent springs as well. Idk about those metal bushings lol 😂
Quite a bit, and the parts available for it aren’t direct bolt in unfortunately. They’re very close. My friend here used an innovative mount solution for bolting up the engine but you will need all Type SH front suspension (knuckles, radius rod, lca). Additionally you will need to manually clearance their mount and subframe system as it’s not perfect. However there are easy drop in harnesses available to put a J swap in basically any car. Once we finish it completely we plan to do a video overview to cover all the parts needed!
Hey Mike! I will have to check for you. It's hard to tell with the current valve cover setup. However, note that your tuner will have to make adjustments during tuning to get the most power and there's no set number to gain performance. Other issues to factor in are engine quench, which can be very problematic for degreeing cams if your engine is running very high compression pistons. Usually its a good idea to clay the compression chamber to see exact clearances.
you made two videos because you put the bolts in upside down 😂 all that and you still dont realize it was your fault the bends are fine the old one back in with the bolts flipped would have been the same as what you have now also the bend you showed is in the wrong plane to affect the bolt hitting 🤣classic self damaging shift linkage you gotta think about it more you dont want those bolts coming loose why put them so they fall out....... should the nut back off,,,,nono backwards nothing more nothing less Damn click Bait en.. under commit and over achieve but first pay attention Cheers
Hey Rexxx, this item comes assembled as shown in both videos directly from Innovative and it was not fault in any way, hence Innovative sending me a free shift linkage to replace the one that was damaged. Maybe do yourself a favor and actually watch both videos in their entirety and you'll understand the bigger picture. EDIT: And what exactly do you mean by wrong plane? There's no other ways for those bars to fit, the bends are the exact same as my stock shift linkage which I compared it to prior to installation. Again, it comes assembled in the box.
@@coryinmotion the picture in the first video is all i needed to see the bolt are indeed backward all day everyday Pre assembled is not assembled that your job! the OEM one would have come out this way and only returned back to its original spot like Honda designed it!
@@rexxx927 if an item comes pre assembled from the manufacturer and is a completely aftermarket item, how am I supposed to assume what direction a bolt goes, bud? It’s not an oem part so it doesn’t match. OEM doesn’t even have a bolt, it has a blind head at both ends of a pin that holds the pieces together. Come on now. 🙄
@@rexxx927 as I said innovative realized their mistake and sent me a whole brand new shift linkage for free to replace this one. Yes they realized their mistake. 👍
There’s another 2-4 horsepower gain by changing that whale cock intake to a normal style one , for what it’s worth the look of the whale cock might be better , it does look good tho.
This guy Erick seems to only want to work with you if you are part of his “inner circle”. I am not an expert car guy that knows tuning as well as Erick, however I believe I can identify quality work when I see it. Erick and his team are known to be one of the best tuners in Southern Cali. When you see his cars and how they perform, they are top notch. Unfortunately, I did not get a positive response from my experience with him. I tried contacting Erick over a year ago regarding working on my car. He basically brushed me off on the phone and said he was too busy with other cars and to try him again later…..so I waited patiently and waited some more for about a year until I had enough money to be able to afford his expertise. I Re contacted him by going to his shop personally. I told him about how I didn’t know how to tune my car and that I could use his expertise. He looked at me like I was selling him insurance and Again, he gave me the cold shoulder, and told me he is too busy working on other cars and that he doesn’t have the room for any other cars. I’m very disappointed in the fact that I traveled as far as I did and waited patiently for this guy for over a year, and who’s work I greatly admire only to be brushed away. I know I’m really a nobody, I’m definitely not part of his “inner circle”. I hope when this guy sees my car at some car show , that he won’t make fun of my car and the effort I tried to put in. I’m only trying to do quality work with my car. I guess I’ll find someone else to help me with my car. I wish nothing bad for Erick and his Team. I just wanted to share my personal experience when I tried to get my own car worked on by him. Well, Good luck to everyone. GOD bless.
Simply supplying a button head bolt with the kit would resolve the issue. I have innovative mounts in my car with no issues, but they are basically just replacement mounts (cb7 with H22). My buddy is swapping J swapping his BB6 using innovative mounts and they did not fit well at all. Seems like some of their products are hit or miss, specifically their swap mounts.
Yeah, I flipped the bolt around and it works but is still pretty close. I’ve never had problems with their engine mounts, but my friend is building a J-swap prelude using their swap kit and has had nothing but problems. I’ll probably be putting a video together about his build so people can understand what they’re getting themselves into haha
@@coryinmotion ya it's definitely not straightforward with those mounts. We had to cut the rear bracket to get the mount to fit in. We're going to have to space up the drivers side bracket to get it sitting level. Front subframe won't work with the exhaust so he's ordered a traction bar, oil pan sits very low so a pr2 low profile moroso pan is going to be ordered, etc. Definitely not an easy swap and not much info online about it.
@@t.j2881 oh nice! So you know the pain haha. We had to shave down the passenger side poly mount as well since the mount bracket was too narrow to fit it. Now running into issues with one of the radius rods contacting the subframe… not a fun build.
Sorry about that! I was going to do a follow up video about the shifter and linkage as it all goes together but things got messy and I ran into some troubles. However, the shifter itself is great although I feel it’s a bit gimmicky in the sense of how it’s adjustable. Sure you can set your shifter height but realistically you can achieve perfect shifter throw with something cheaper like the a fast line performance shifter instead. With that being said, the spherical joint is great for eliminating what little amount of play lies in the original ball socket of the oem style shifter. However, the b series shifter linkage as a whole is just a loose mess no matter what you really do and this shifter will not fix that.
Still in process! You can keep up by following my buddy @twocamsam_turbos on IG. We have run into a ton of problems and I’m sure he would be happy to talk with you about the swap
So the first dyno was from right after the engine build and was in its break-in period. Its been a few thousand miles now and its nice and broken in, so that added a couple ponies in itself. I also swapped from 550cc Evo IX injectors to new Grams Performance Injectors, in addition to getting the cam gears adjusted. I think most of the power came from post-break in and retune though. Plus, Erick said he had a few new tricks to make better power on this setup that he employed.
@@dearlove88 most of this stems from the ridiculous steering ratio. I shuffle to try and compensate for that but the real solution will be coming soon when I convert the steering rack for a tighter ratio. You’ll notice a few turns where the steering wheel is literally 180 degrees or more which my wrists just won’t do without at least a one handed shuffle! Haha.
@@dearlove88 it’s a 90s honda thing. the steering ratios are notoriously slow because in base form they were meant to be commuter cars. look up crx racing videos, you literally gotta shuffle to keep up lol
Still wondering if this is a real slider? I love the looks but is it strong enough on the trail? No specs like other sliders on descriptions as HREW or DOM and metal thickness?
They’re pretty stout and very heavy. Unfortunately life took over and I haven’t been able to get out and play in a while. Im hoping to test them out soon! From their construction I imagine they’ll take a good beating but can’t be sure how well they will stand for serious rock crawlers that want to slam the entire weight of the truck on them constantly.
