Info on my 91 Toyota pickup with a 93 ls400 1uzfe v8 swap 

I’m glad you got some useful information from this video. I was going to do a video on wiring but life gets in the way haha. I’m just happy I could shed some light on this swap for the community!

My thoughts exactly if you're gonna spend that much money.

Updates?? Please check my comment on the r154 flywheel mating, eager for details

TheRumbles13 I posted a reply to your question. I will make an update video shortly. The truck is finally on the road again, just got 300miles on her so far

@@Jay351 Any update?

@@andrewo8987 I actually just put licence plates back on the truck last week. Just waiting for some nice weather. Look for an update soon, it’s a totally different truck now.

@@andrewo8987 just posted an updated short video. Gives a nice visual of how the truck sits today.

MrDonkeyoti thanks! I'm currently redoing the steering system, adding the rear o2 sensors in and re sealing the oil pan. Hopefully I can finish this truck next year

TheKoppenhaffer it's got a long way to go. Now it's suspension and body work...

Blazeland with a TC idler arm is what I'd do if I still had a pre-taco IFS. Can't believe I've been watching this build since I was in high school and on Yotatech.

TheKoppenhaffer that's still the plan eventually. I'm not totally apposed to sfa but I don't want leaf springs on the front. I want this truck to be comfortable on the hwy as some of our spots take a few hours to get to the trail heads..

Leafs are great for crawling and they are easy to install, but they suck for everything else. The backcountry roads I travel on are all covered with washboards. I have to severely reuce speed to avoid pounding myself and my truck to pieces thanks to the leaf springs in the front. The solution I’m looking at is a solid front axle with coil springs. That, and 63” Chevy leafs in the back. These guy have the best coil solution, but it aint cheap. www.4wheelunderground.com

91 hilux surf 1uz going in soon !

Many thanks. Have fun doing the swap!

Mike Gray thanks!!

TheEDD yeah they fit pretty good, except the first drivers side primary runner needs to be re routed to clear the steering shaft. Make sure you get 00-04 2uz headers as 05 and up use a secondary air injection system. Also make sure you get thicker gaskets for the manifold to the heads, the eBay header flange is not perfect and will leak with a thin metal style gasket.

The front bumper had to be moved forward to run my radiator in it’s current position. You could do a few things to eliminate the issue with clearance: 1: move engine back another 1.5”, this may cause some grief with access to bellhousing bolts and shifter location. 2: run a pusher fan setup instead of a puller, then the rad could sit in the original position. 3. Smaller radiator, could be a good option depending on ambient temps of your area and how you use the vehicle. ( it gets up to 40c here and I beat the snot out of the truck) 4: mount the cooling system in the bed. I would probably do this. The engine bay is tight, getting good airflow is an issue, even with a body lift and a tube bumper. If the rad is in the bed it’s protected and you will at least double the coolant capacity of the system. This kinda wrecks the “daily drivers” aspect if that’s what you’re after.

@@Jay351 thanks for the info. Amazing work!

Jireh Ward interesting theory. From what I understand this is a positive crank case vent, it shouldn't really effect vacuum at. I only deleted it because it's a high mileage engine and the condition was questionable. So I removed it to prevent any intake sludge. But I'll try swapping it over and see if I notice a difference. Thanks!

I may upload some wiring info, but realistically it’s super straight forward. Even easier if you get an engine of similar year to swap in. E.g 89-92 pickup and a 90-92 1uzfe share similar systems for their circuit opening relay and such. Buy a factory service manual for both vehicles, then you really only need to actually splice about a dozen wires from the truck harness to the 1uzfe computer. Things like constant 12v, switched 12v, ignition, injector power stuff like that. The factory 3.0 fuel system is triggered by a switched ground that’s made by the Vafm. So I used the mrel terminal from the 1uz computer to fire a relay which provided ground to the circuit opening relay which would enable the fuel pump. If you’re interested in doing the wiring yourself you really should have some experience with wiring and electrical. Otherwise it’s best to pay someone or buy a swap harness

Sorry for the late reply. My truck has been moved to long term storage. When I get out there I’ll take some measurements. I did buy the radiator from North West Toys out of Oregon, they might have the dimensions listed on their site.

WrenchTech Unlimited stock fuel pump from the 3.0 is enough to feed the 1uz. On my 91 the circuit opening relay just needed a negative trigger to energize it. I used one of the ecu outputs to trigger a relay to supply negative to the c.o.r.

Sanaan Jamali you would need to adapt the engine to your transmission/transfer case of choice. You could use the factory automatic and use an adapter to install a transfercase. I think inchworm makes that adapter

chuck blankenship northwest toys

If you use the KS racing bellhousing adapter: Cut down the mount for the slave cylinder about 1.25” as it’s cast far to tall. You will need to cut the threads deeper for the slave mounting bolts. The kit comes with the short input shaft adapter for early r150f transmissions. I used it with my 91 gearbox. I used the flywheel from northwest toys (their first version), HD 3vze clutch kit from marlin crawler was used, but I had to use a 3.4L release bearing to make it all work.

@@Jay351 thank you! I am sourcing a 92LS 400 for this project. A lot of interlocks and deleted for security on this engine management system I see. Ignition key is coded. Guessing the wiring for this is detailed

@@brianlindsey1997 thankfully the on-board immobilizer is attached to the car, not the engine/ecu. There was no need to bypass anything in that regard. As long as the ecu is powered up, Ignition system is on, fuel pump (through the circuit opening relay) is running. She will fire.

@@Jay351 excellent man, thank you for your help

RideVictoria too bad, I was actually over on the island, with the truck last weekend!

Jay351 😃

Devin Paulsen the rad required heavy modification of the rad support to allow space, along with removal of the hood latch. Exhaust manifolds were modified (drivers side more so) along with a fully custom exhaust the whole way back. Engine swap required a body lift so there’s modifications that come with that as well. It depends how handy and mechanically inclined you are. I purchased the major bits like engine mounts, bellhousing adapter, but the more you make yourself the better.

I don’t have a list per say, but within the video I’m pretty sure I’ve gotten all the items. Anything I missed I added in the video description. With the exception of the wiring, I’m no professional, the way I wired it may differ from others. If you have any specific questions throw them my way.

I used the factory spec denso replacement 3vze fuel pump. It is sufficient for the 1uzfe in stock form.

DADDY_ JULZ I used a ks racing bellhousing adapter. A 3vze hd clutch with a 5vzfe throwout bearing. Seems to handle the power of the 1uz without issue.

I hear they are good for around 450hp. I’ve beaten the snot outa mine and she’s still good. Fresh shifter bushings from marlin crawler are a must!

Angelo Ortega I used the mrel trigger and used a relay to provide a switched ground for the fuel pump. Not perfect as it won’t cut off the fuel in the event of an accident. But it’s functional.

Flywheel is a modified 3.0 unit. Clocked and re drilled for the 1uz bolt pattern. Clutch is a marlin crawler hd kit for the 3.0v6 and I used a 3.4v6 throw out bearing Input bearing came with the ks racing bellhousing adapter kit. Stock r150 with the chain driven transfercase. Recently threw in a lce engineering short shifter.

Daniel B. Got the mounts from northwest toys llc. I used factory 3.0 rubber mounts along with those

Matt S_. I used the stock ls400 pan. As for clutch/trans I used ks racing bellhousing. A modified 3.0 flywheel (new bolt pattern drilled into it), used a marlin crawler HD 3.0 clutch kit with a 3.4l throw out bearing. Ks racing bellhousing needs around 1.5” cut off the slave cylinder mount and the holes re-tapped.

Thanks for replying so quickly. Some folks are saying that the 3VZE flywheel is too light. Have you noticed any issues related to that? Also, which fork did you use and do the 1uz engines have a spot for a pilot bearing.

Matt S_. I haven’t had any issue with the flywheel being too light. The flywheel I got from north west toys is just a stock replacement. I used the stock release fork. I used the pilot bearing, pilot bearing spacer and Input shaft extension that came with the ks racing bellhousing.

So I take it then that the 1uz crankshaft has a recess in the end for a pilot bearing? Here's a shot of my truck. It's a 93 with that presently has only 113,000 miles on it? wrenchtech.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/93_Toyota_pu-e1529390878161.jpg I can get my hands on a KS bellhousing, but it comes with nothing else. I'll have to put the rest of the clutch kit together myself. And I may need the input shaft extension and pilot bearing.. I am hoping that I can get the extension made locally and figure out which bearing I should buy

WrenchTech Unlimited nice truck! Looks super clean, nice candidate for the swap! I wish I kept records of which pilot bearing came with the kit but alas I did not. I actually bought the Ks kit locally about 3 years before I actually did the swap from a fella that decided to not use it. I did have to use the stock 1uzfe flexplate spacer behind the flywheel to ensure proper engagement of the starter. Nobody seems to mention that...

Matt S_. Yes. you can get the engine back father by massaging the firewall and shifter openings. If I did it again I would set it father back to avoid the rad clearance issues. That and solid mount it no rubber bushings! The place I got my rad from sells an ac condenser to bolt on so it is possible to have working ac.

@@Jay351 curious as to why you would skip the rubber bushings and mount it solid? Thanks for your video.

Ben Brunson well my truck is just a toy. So I figure the vibrations you experience are worth the rigidity of solid mounting. I had to drill through the motor mounts and install a bolt to prevent so much flexing of the engine under torque. It works but I think either an upgraded engine mount or solid is the way to go.

Daniel Borrer you could mate this to just about any transmission depending if you can either buy or make your own adapter. Thankfully the r150f is a popular trans to use so conversion parts are easy to get

Jay351 thank you for the reply. I am just starting to explore the idea of this motor swap and wondered how the 1UZFE would do (perform) with my existing transmission. I'd think that the increased power would be detrimental because the existing 6speed (I'm not sure of its technical name) was not engineered to withstand this much power.... I understand of course depending on how the user drives the vehicle would play a big part of the longevity of the paring.... thanks-

Daniel Borrer the original trans in my truck was designed for a v6 with around 150hp. It handles the 1uzfe no problem, and I beat the snot out of it! Its never given me issues even shifting at full redline full throttle!

No, bellhousing is not the same. Most guys will use the stock Lexus automatic and use the inchworm output shaft adapter so you can bolt on your transfercase.

Wiring is fairly straight forward. If you have access to the Toyota schematics you pretty much just Match up the wiring. Things like constant power, switched power, ignition/injector power, starter signal. You will need to splice in connections for oil pressure, water temp sensor. The 1uz uses a dual speed fuel pump, the 3vze used the air flow meter to give ground signal to the circuit opening relay to allow the fuel pump to run. So I used a spare output from the 1uz ecu to trigger the circuit opening relay. You will also need to separate the 4wd front differential wiring from the old engine harness if you’re working on a 4wd truck. Toyota is pretty consistent when it comes to wiring. The lion share of the wiring is from the engine to the ecu which you don’t need to mess with. Remove as much old wiring for the transmission and other items like egr if you don’t plan on using them.

@@Jay351 awesome thank you thats a huge help

Pilot bearing came with the KS racing bellhousing. I will try to look through old pictures to find a part number. I did have to use the included pilot bearing spacer in addition to the input shaft extension for my short snout r150f trans.

Stone Chief trans is the original r150f. No issues with the increase in power. I only put a few thousand miles on the truck before I tore it back down for a semi restoration.

Should be located in plug iL1, wire is black with orange tracer, feeds the injector circuit. If I remember correctly it also feeds the ignition coils. Been many years since I did the wiring on this swap. Same plug as starter trigger wire.

@@Jay351 awesome I see there’s 1 Black/Red wire? I assume that’s power to the Sensor wires?

@@cakebop the manual shows it as black/orange but it may be more red than orange. It should provide power to both ignition coils and all 8 injectors. You could use a multi meter to check the wire in question, using one probe at the ecu end and one probe out at each injector and coil, using the ohm/continuity function on the multi meter.

@@Jay351 yeah there’s one Black/Orange wire and one Black/Red wire in the same iL1 plug

@@cakebop the black/red should fed from 15amp supply. This supplies various sensors with their 12v power such as o2 sensors, idle up VSV, egr system etc.

No complete swap guides for free out there. All the Info needed is available if you do the homework.

The nwt mounts allowed the shifter to stay in oem place?

Sure does!

Skim Broskie it depends how much you can do yourself. If you’re a good fabricator and have all the tools you could do this swap for under a few grand. I lost track of the total cost years ago.

fredy mejia I'll try to make a video about some of the wiring. It's really not that bad. You will have a slightly more simple swap compared to me. The wiring tends to change in the 92-93 year changeover for both Vehicles. Don't be scared, just buy a factory wiring manual for both cars and go one wire at a time.

Hey just a quick question what you do with transmission I have several Toyotas and have been dreaming of doing V8 swap and doing all Toyota but have not found a whole lot on swapping over to a 4 x 4 5 speed what did you do and where did you get the kit please get back to me I would love to do the swap soon thanks looks good though love second gen Yoda's with big Power

i would like to ask u about ur 1992 lexus V8

N B I’m canandian eh. I say Zed you say Zee.

ALWLEED 506 I purchased the oem wiring diagram manuals for my 91 pickup and the 93 ls400 from eBay. I wanted paper hard copies rather then electronic copies. Then I just layed then out next to each other and matched up most of the wiring, like injector power, ignition power, etc. I had to do some creative wiring to trigger the factory circuit opening relay but I also configured a kill switch into this circuit to make stealing the truck much more difficult