Pak. Saya Subcriber anda dari Indonesia . Tolong tanya yang di maksud Barang torsi di Pinion itu letaknya di sebelah mana , dan apa sulit untuk membuka batang torsi tsb ? Apa benar benda itu Jantungnya dari worm Steer mobil yang selalu berat di Steer mobil ? Terima kasih saya tunggu jawaban anda

Helpful video. Thanks. Interesting aluminum slotted wheels I saw on that car.

Interesting. So that’s a 71 Federal. (Like mine) Did you say February? What’s the commission number? LE1400 or so?

Cool. Thanks!

Thanks for the information, It pays to get a spare used box sometimes just a small fix can save loads of money in reconditioned units , how did you get on with the crank bearing change did you get the sump back on and running ,

Very interesting, thanks for the information again Sujit 👍

I was able to get out the white ring and the seal behind it with a short blast of pressured air into the front port of the reservoir. Remove the reservoir for better access and make sure the piston is fully extended before applying the air.

Great information, you are a wealth of knowledge regarding all things Stag, looking forward to part 4 🤗👍

Thanks for sharing Roy, yes make sure the BW flexplate is installed with the dish side to the engine. looks like you have the crank spacer correct first to the crank then the flex plate then the washer then the six bolts , ask me how I know , it fits the wrong way after completing the whole thing the starter failed only finding the flex plate wrong way round , yep had to take it all apart again, I would assume you would place on BW bell housing on the zf put the converter in place and measure the distance on the converter mount studs to the BW flex plate and compare

Hi, I am from the UK with a Stag using the BW35 box and want to convert it to the Jag ZF4HP22 box and wondered who/where you purchased that adapter plate from as it’s exactly what I will need, also what ideas did you have to make the speedo work as the ZF does not have the figment for a cable? Many thanks, Ian

Interesting, I've added a j type overdrive to a bw35 , makes for very good cruising. , same as Manuel with overdrive, I believe that the zf top gear increases the the propshaft speed similar to that of an overdrive, keep us updated great project to see alternatives,

On a Land Rover, the caliper design is very similar to those and there is a sleeve inside the bridge seal so it keeps it seated when you release the brake pedal and prevent it to suck air in the joint and un-bleed the system as you drive. This sleeve is nothing special, a piece of pipe with the correct length and diameter is all it needs. I used to drive a car with a caliper set that had been rebuilt without the sleeve and I have never been able to prevent them to pickup air...

All this time and I never knew were adjustable

Brilliant! These Smiths gauges are the absolute same as fitted to the injected Sport Volvos from '69 -73, so the info you present here, and in the first video, is totally applicable and invaluable to us also. Thank you for putting this info together, particularly the details on the calibration tool! Compliments and Greets from Connecticut, and the vintage Volvo world!

Great video ! I am trying to solve a Smiths oil temp issue also. How did you determine the voltage that corresponds to cold and hot needle position ?

this was a joke.

Thanks, I have wire wheels on my 71 Stag but want to change over to alloys this was very helpful.

Man you aren’t kidding about it being hard in winter. It was 32 degrees last night and I really didn’t think I was going to get it off.

Guess who just done the rear brakes on there stag and has the top spring the wrong way round..thanks for the video!

Done this job a couple of times. The cross member is secured to the main chassis rails with 4 bolts & nuts each side. If the bolt heads are tack welded to their corresponding re-enforcing plates it simplifies removal and installation.

I'd recommend Permatex 80019 Aviation Form-A-Gasket No. 3 Sealant. It's tacky but not overly tacky. I've used it on my Stag to great effect. If you like really tacky sealant try like Permatex 80062. They're both very easy to apply a very thin layer; which is all that's necessary. Good luck.

Hi worth Checking the oil pressure release valve as well ,as replacing shells will normally increase pressure, now on the stag it's a peculiar valve device doesn't take much for it to stick , Iv known stags to run on about 20 psi in this state, one customer ran it for a year like this , Iv had them myself after a lay up , 20 psi then suddenly it pops up to 40 psi , it should be 40 to 45 normal , high oil pressure recks the tensioners and stretches the chains , thanks for sharing, as always ,

thanks for your video. It helped me well. There are 4 holes on the front side, 3 are used for the bracket. Can you tell what the 4th is meant for? (it's been a while since I took it off the car and I don't remember. I also don't see any indication on the parts book or the workshop manual...

Hi Sujit, do you know how to remove the badge from the insert? I'm having a hard time getting mine out

Not a lot to explain replacement of weather strip which was the description 🤔🤔

I’ve seen the KMAC product on their website. Do you know of anyone who has their Product installed on a Stag?

I rebuilt a number of Stag engines when I was a teenager at a specialist 40-odd years ago. from my very distant memory, that oil pressure looks fairly normal for a used engine in fair condition. there used to be a simple oil pump overhaul kit (seals and pressure relief valve components) which is very easy to do as the pump is external. a bigger issue is when the engine has too much oil pressure often caused by a massive lump on the block casting in the oil gallery directly infront of the pump, sometimes causing back pressure on the pump and silting. this problem was from poor/no quality control at the factory and requires some aggressive fettling to remove. the symptom would often be a rattling timing chain and rumbling bottom end but showing contradictory good oil pressure. I'd be surprised if there are many engines out there which haven't been fixed by now. the Stag is one of the most under-rated classics out there, its reputation ruined by a good engine that was dreadful produced.

So would this be possible with the ignition barrel too. It would be nice to have a single key for doors, petrol filler and ignition!

Also make sure the spiral spring is installed the right way round! Believe it or not the very slow drivers window on my newly bought Stag turned out to be someone had cleaned the mechanism and fitted the spring so it was forcing the window down, not up!

ive had a price of $799 to rebuild my rack, assuming its just a seal refresh. For $65 for the seal kit i think i might have a go at it myself following this video!

Thanks Roy yes most jobs on the stag are straight forward IF you know how to go about it same as the bell housing bolts generally , long extension 1\4 inch sections untill you reach it hold the other end with open ended bent spanner , exhaust manifold bolts present the same problem , o and relax and take yer time , sometimes better with low light and shine a torch exactly where the spanners go , always enjoy your films !

That's a great visual demonstration of the problem that we all encounter sooner or later, and how to get around it with the long extension - thanks :)

I had that problem recently, it's a very tricky job. I had to replace my ignition switch and the electrical system which involves removal of the steering column. Job completed now. Good luck with your car. Bob

Interesting, to hear about the differences on Stags in the USA to those in the UK, Cheers Bob

Thanks for the hints-&-Tips on water pumps. Cheers Bob

Useful video thanks

Very useful information. Thank you.

Just done this as well. Regular solder worked ok, but gave cable and pull a good soaking in Baker's Fluid. 👍

🐶🙂👍👌

The air intake is bi-directional; The idea being on cold the air is drawn from a warm source ( The external area of the exhaust manifold) to quickly heat the carburettor to optimally 20 degrees and so rapidly turn off the choke ( all about emission control) The flap is spring loaded bias, being controlled by vacuum bellow fed from the inlet manifold and switched via a bi- metal valve ( that can be opened and adjusted) The next problem is the overheated carburettors due to the nestled proximity between the vee blocks of the engine.. This can be offset by renewing the Bakelite spacing insulators to the inlets and; also the replacement of the steel spring washers with plumbers fibre washers.. to improve the insulation properties ( it is in no manual but does work to help hot starting)

Minosa yellow

It look like minors yellow

Sujit, the active ingredient in your old-stock paint remover which I think may be methylene chloride was banned in the EU in 2009, which is why Nitromors pain stripper we can buy here doesn't work as it did. I have recently experimented on the grill with various products which are still available on the amateur market but without success, and now I'm wondering the grills were originally powder coated. Methylene chloride may have worked ok with this. I've tried alumin(i)um rods in other situations, and found it does work - but as you probably know, unlike steel, you don't get visual warning of the metal coming up to melting point and oh-so-easy to overcook it - especially as the grill brackets are made from rather thin gauge metal considering their application. A restorer friend suggested it might be less risky to use an epoxy glue, but didn't say which one! Your badge from Terry looks like the scratches might respond to metal polish.

Yes had grill brackets to repair so I got some alum rods but it would not weld , found out it was anodized , so out with the angle grinder , made good repair after both surfaces had anodizing taken off , thanks for sharing ,

I think you need a tripod 😀

Classic Car LEDs Ltd might be the answer.

Not too clear in the video, but is low beam just the outer two lights' horizontal bar, and high beam all units, all lights lit? I understand there's different configurations for different markets but my federal Stag has outer pair low beam, and all four units high beam, with the inside pair containing high beam only globes. I've converted them all to LED bulbs, and kept the operation the same. H4 outers, and H1 inners. All fits in the standard Halogen headlight. Looks stock, but packs the LED punch.

Did you buy complete bicycle cable ie inner and outer, or did u use original outer cables from stag Thanks David

Ah yes , my mk 1 has 4 identical h1 bulbs it just pointed the outer ones dip wich stay on all the time , the inner ones are then pointed main beam , it's standard from 72 and had to covert them to an h4 h1 set up because the beam pattern was all wrong on dip, I also had to cut a wire from the switch and rejoin it, what a fidally thing to do ,

Thanks for this Tony. I have two locks, but they have both had their numbers removed! However, once dismantled, a key that I have fits one of them, but once re-assembled is a mite difficult to turn. Hopefully some decent lube might solve this.