didn't discuss the difference between load and line and told people about using the bronze or silver colored screws but didn't say whether they went to the load or line side
Thanks a lot for THIS AWESOME VIDEO it was very helpful BECAUSE I INSTALLED POWER TO MY SHE SHED TODAY AND WAS UNSURE HOW TO DO THE LIGHT SWITCH FROM THE GFIC AND THANKS TO YOU IT WORKS PERFECTLY YOU JUST SAVED ME LIKE A-LOT OF MONEY REALLY APPRECIATE IT
I have a camper that has a mini fridge that is hardwired in. The fridge is broken ( not fixable), and all the fridges i see have regular 3prong cords. Would you suggest i run the existing wires into a new outlet ( which I would install) ,or cutting the cord end , and splicing the wires together?
Both hots were wrapped the wrong way and have too much insulation on them, which is now pinched under the terminal screws instead of giving the screws a clean grip on nothing but conductor. If this is the level of skill you use when wiring your house then you need to make sure your insurance payments are always up to date, and you keep fresh batteries in your smoke detectors.
SharkBite connectors fail from day 1 .... I did pex A expansion and I made a mistake with a fitting, I had to cut the ring with a hot blade, I still couldn't pull of the hose without the ring on it, its super tight, I didn't want to damage the plastic connector by cutting the hose so I just threw that piece away... the SharkBite's is easy to just pop in and swap, but you don't want those connections in the wall, they eventually leak, plus they cost almost double the price of the expansion or compression, I did my own manifold with pex A expansion rings, water heater, main, everything except the valves at the stub out for the water line to connect to sink because I did not have the expansion machine, so I said screw it and got the easy push connects from sharkbite, I only have 12 water lines total, I added a whole house filter, washer machine water box, about 5 shut off valves around the manifold and a water filter bypass, did the water pressure test, all of those compression connections and valves were fine and super tight, out of the 12 valves I had issues with one SharkBite drop ear and the SharkBite water valve leaking, theyre pushed all the way in, cleaned each pipe before connection, so before we put the drywall up I am going to home depot to swap all of those SharkBite's out because I am not trying to have water damage after all this work was done. SharkBite's are easy to use, cost more money but no tool to buy, thats the only reason I got these, but I have these push connects for airline(other brand of course) but these airlines always end up leaking and they need to be replaced, so I didnt really want to use sharkbite but was being lazy, I had a 2nd plumber come out to do the shower drains and even he was asking me why did I not use the same expansion rings for everything? SharkBite's are not good he said and to use the compression at least because the tool is cheap, since I don't want to buy the expansion Milwaukee gun for $500. Back to home depot.
I would’ve put the white wire with the two blacks using the push connector and hook the black wire to the hot side of the outlet. Same thing just looks better.
I use wago connectors but I've never used a single phase light switch. You just saved my bacon because I could not wrap my brain around what wire to jump where. Thank you!
Love it, but I have a quick question. Do you have to track which black and white (in my case black and red) cable go to which breaker. I.e. label each cable to each each double pole circuit breaker? Or can you have a double breaker wired to have a red coming from a separate heating element and the black coming in from another separate heating element? Or do you have to make sure the white and black cable go (for each separate heating element) go to a designated double circuit breaker?
Hi, you can really use either or. If you care about your local codes you may want to chenk in on that. In short, you can never go wrong with lag bolts.
