@@hollywood6218 Thanks! My friend always chose "Ayrton Senna" as an alias in karting, so I would typically use Prost as a result lol I ended up liking him a lot the more I learned about his racing career and origin of his "Professor" nickname

Front: -4.3ish (that was the max I could do without running of toe adjustment) Rear: -1.2 (OEM) The reason for the rotation is that I removed my front sway bar entirely to get a little extra droop travel. This also reduces understeer / increases oversteer. My rear tire pressure is set to something like 45 PSI cold for this lap too lol

No rear sway bar, but I removed my front sway bar entirely. I have a list of mods in the video description as well if you would like to take a look at it 👍

rFactor 2 lol

It helped a lot, I fully recommend this track mod 👍

Yup! I opted to disconnect my front sway bar first to gauge the handling balance, and I like how it was when including coilovers and ~3 deg of front camber initially. Progress Rear Sway and SPC camber bolts are an excellent starting point if you're starting on stock suspension or lowering springs though

@@RossomeSauce1 I am currently rebuilding the entire front suspension to oem specs albeit with kyb gr2 struts, debated doing camber bolts but idk if the stock height etc. calls for it? a Progress RSB in the future for sure tho

@@vacuumnoise The OEM suspension didn't include front camber bolts, so you'd have to get aftermarket ones (although Honda makes some too). At stock ride height, you'll definitely benefit from added camber if you're looking for better track and autocross performance. I only mention coilovers because they often come slotted from the factory, and allow you to get more camber with camber bolts than normal struts.

@@RossomeSauce1 thanks for the info. Yeah I wonder how much one can truly lower without ruining the suspension geometry, 2 inches?

Oiled filter, but you can attach any filter you want since it just uses a pod 👍

@@RossomeSauce1 i see. Pricey but gorgeous piece for sure; id prefer to run a dry flow tho, i guess i can use an apexi or aem etc.

@@RossomeSauce1 how are the gains, read a 5whp increase, saw yr dynod at 99whp? and i beleive i saw 97whp with the k&n typhoon? correct?

@@vacuumnoise It's something like +3WHP from when testing on my local dynojet, but it wasn't in a controlled environment, so I'd take that with a grain of salt. The biggest difference is that the J's intake is a true cold-air intake, versus the K&N that sucks from the engine bay, so the intake air doesn't get heatsoaked with the J's model and should theoretically provide more low end torque because of the chamber design too.

@@RossomeSauce1 very cool. Yeh I think I'm just going to put an apex drop in filtre in mine as it's a daily.

👸👸👸

Cooling is completely stock 👍 No overheating issues at all

@@RossomeSauce1how about your suspension? Cause my gd3 is like hard to drive in cornering, always loose grip, like drifting all the time even with new tires. I am using BC racing coilover and shocks

@@user-dm8rp8vu2x My suspension and wheel/tire mods are listed in the video description, but they are intended to make the car VERY loose/drifty. With just BC coilovers on your GD3, and tires with even front/rear tire pressure, your car should be understeery. If it slides/drifts, then you might be turning too much while braking? Hard to say...

If you haven't done so already, try setting your live, static camber to -2.4ish degrees I forgot to put my setup in the description. Having the right camber makes a very big difference on performance. Tire choice, spring rates, and dampers seem to be mostly preference. Tire pressures should be set so thay they're green in the default "tires" app when hot though 👍 Hopefully that gets you another half second without a whole lot of extra practice!

I made the phone mount by epoxying together a few sheets of 1/8" ABS plastic and then epoxying a phone case to THAT The app is RaceCapture, and is connected wirelessly to my RaceCapture MKII OBD-II via wifi. It also works with Bluetooth, but seems to be a bit more finicky in that mode 👍

he made me hella nervous going around The Uphill (T5) and T7 though lol. I wasn't about to try bump drafting him in flatout corners

pretty accurate representation of the poly mounts and straight pipe shaking my car apart lol

NJMP was the first event I had the FA 510s installed for, and I had a hard time getting them right. What I found out was: 1) The pre-load was set way too high. I had it set to 5-10mm, and it was supposed to be 0-2mm. This caused a lot of bouncing and wheel hop. 2) My front spring rates were on the high side. So I went from 14k/12k to 12k/12k I also installed Wunderladen's front camber plates, so I could get more static AND dynamic camber through caster, and also eliminate deflection that would normally cause positive camber. Air temps were around 10 degrees cooler than last year as well. This session was around 84 degrees, whereas the fastest session last year was closer to 96+ haha

I ALWAYS FORGET TO TAKE IT OFF

@@RossomeSauce1 reminds me I should definitely leave it to keep the daily driven vibes once I get out there in 2024!

They're really fun cars for sure! I actually bought a Fit because EF/EG/EK Civics were nearly twice as expensive as Fits around 2018. Good luck searching 👍

Yea, I agree. I plan on re-doing this test next season when I'm focusing strictly on HPDE. I learned a lot about both tires and also my own driving since doing this test last. I put in the conditions and such knowing that they were the weakest points of the test. The driver is kind of a moot point, because they're the constant either way. I'm no pro driver, but I'm certainly in the top of my competitive Sundae Cup racing class that includes some 30-odd cars with the same power to weight ratio. I could probably try keeping track of my average lap time, and exclude outliers where I come across traffic or have to slow down to give point bys, then show my average lap time over the session and also show my fastest. Just gotta find a nice, cloudy day to at least even out the track temps. I appreciate the feedback though. Definitely going to keep it in mind for next season when I have more time for this stuff away from competitive driving.

hmmmmm, it's kind of a tough one because there are a bunch of minute pros and cons, but I think the GE or the GK are the best FITS for competitiveness at the moment. Kinda new for the 2023 season, drag is a very big focus item for getting a winning time. For Fits, the worst to best goes GD, GE, then GK in this regard. The downside is that you have to be very mindful that the GK is not too powerful for the class, and have a detune or ballast available just in case. The GD is best if you want something that's extremely simple (there's no TCS or VSA or rev hang that you have to fight). The GE is in the middle in this regard, but it's possible to disable VSA by unplugging the yaw sensor and disable rev hang by using a KTuner. Civics (EF, EG, EK) are looking to be very strong going forward too. Double wishbone combined with the low drag profile proved to be really strong this year in Kevin Gu's hands. Rauck's will also be very strong once they get the stuttering issues worked out. Future rule changes may be focused on balancing the strength of DWB and low drag cars however. Overall, I would choose a car that looks best to you and is within your budget. My GD has been on the podium in fields of 10-14 drivers even against low drag cars even though it gets destroyed on the straights by the GE, GK, and ZX2 Escort. I'll have to see how it holds up against Civics this year too 😅

GD3 vs GE8 The GD and GE are virtually the same, but the GE (2nd gen) is the better car on paper I think. If both cars are the same price, there's a few reasons I'd choose the GE: 1) Stiffer rear torsion beam (via reinforcement) on the Sport trim GEs 2) Telescoping steering wheel on GEs. Tailored Chassis Solutions sells a 50mm OEM wheel extender for the GD (1st gen), but the GE basically has this from the factory. You need this if you are taller than the average Japanese citizen. 3) The 1.5L engine was an afterthought on the GD, as overseas, they initially came with a 1.3L and CVT. This shows very strongly in the GD's rear engine mount design, which to be blunt, is dogshit. It's a mount that requires you to effectively remove all three other engine/transmission mounts so that you can pivot the engine enough to undo the bolts for the rear mount. The GE's rear engine mount takes twenty minutes, and ten of those minutes are raising and lowering the car. 4) Aftermarket support is generally considered better on the GE. It's typically easier to find parts for it because it had a longer run in the U.S. vs the GD. The GD was only 2007-2008, whereas the GE was 2009-2013 and shared many parts with the CR-Z. 5) You get more power from the GE out of the box (GE 117 BHP vs GD 108 BHP) and it weighs only 50lb more (GE Curb 2,520lb vs GD Curb 2,471lb) 6) You get more cup holders in the GE There are two reasons to NOT buy a GE: 1) You can't get them without TPMS, whereas the 2007 GD did not have TPMS. The 2008 GD had TPMS. The only thing this affects is your TPMS light being visible on the dash, which can be fixed with electrical tape and a gauge cluster removal. 2) The GE has Vehicle Stability Assist to overcome, and pulling the fuse also disables ABS. VSA is defeatable using this guide for facelifted GEs (2012-2013), but I haven't heard whether it also works or is necessary for 2009-2011 models. Guide to disable here, written by Robert Rieker: torquesteersite.wordpress.com/.../ge-honda.../... Basically, both are equally competitive, and I'd buy a GE over a GD for the same price any day of the week. In reality, GEs are more expensive, so I'd realistically recommend buying a GE over a GD if the GE is no more than $2k-$3k over what GDs with similar mileage are going for in your area.

@@RossomeSauce1 This is an amazing and fantastic set of answers. I really appreciate it. Thank you!

I’ve recently picked up a gd3 for spirited drives. What is your steering wheel and seat set up?

@@sneakthieve I've got a DnD Deep Dish wheel, 50mm extender, and Works Bell hub adapter. The seat is just OEM lol. I use the seat belt locking trick to hold my waist in place though.

I'm not 100% sure honestly without some form of error message or otherwise unfortunately. Does the game just close everytime it tries to load the track? It might also have to do with Custom Shaders Patch if you installed it manually without Content Manager and possibly used an outdated config setting or version. You can also try using the free version of Assetto Corsa Content Manager, which throws more error codes to help you diagnose issues.

@@RossomeSauce1 i use content manager for everything and the game loads but the track is just a blank white space with no floor

@@lilydafoxchan ah... yea... that's a new one to me,,, I think I would try downloading from another source to see if it's an error with the track itself if you haven't done that already. I can't say I've run into that issue in Assetto since buying it on release...

It's way better than Mid-Ohio at least haha Thanks!

Nice! It's such a great track, can't wait to go back. Great to hear that you were able to get your Fit out there!

My tires wear okay now, but the outside edge getting eaten up is because of insufficient camber. I just started using camber plates this year, but this sidewall wear seems to be disappearing at -3.8 deg of camber. The rears I have a stock camber (-1.7ish), but my 615s still last for 2 seasons without any issues.

@@RossomeSauce1 that's great!! Can you tell me more about those plates? I had heard I can get a modified camber bolt but not anything about plates yet

@@Soter_Rev Sure! As far as getting camber goes, the first thing you'll want to do is pickup a pair of SPC camber bolts, and put one in the bottom hole of each strut where it attaches to the knuckle. These bolts can be rotated by an alignment shop to give yourself additional camber and get more grip in corners in the front wheels. For camber plates, the easiest solution is to pickup adjustable coilovers and camber plates from Fortune Auto. The Fortune Auto plates require no drilling or cutting. shop-fortune-auto.com/products/fortune-auto-pro-adjustable-camber-top-plates Other plates exist from Tailored Chassis Solutions, Wunderladen Racing, Redshift, and Chris Taylor Racing, but they all require drilling and cutting into the chassis. They're less expensive and easier to adjust, but it's an irreversible modification. christaylorracing.com/collections/b-spec-stuff/products/honda-fit-universal-large-strut-tower-camber-plates Hope this helps, lmk if you have other questions

Should definitely look into doing an autocross event with it at least! You can show up with all-season tires and normal street brakes and still have a lot of fun for ~$30-$60. Most clubs have helmet rentals available too, but this varies based on COVID procedures. Not as fast as getting on track, but it's way cheaper and far less prep work for sure. You'll still be on the limit of grip for the whole duration of the lap.

You definitely should! It's a hoot and really fast on autocross - and it teaches you how to keep your momentum so you're still fast!

Sorry, idk how I never replied That's actually a GD, but I lifted off on the straight to let Pete (the blue GD) by To further answer your question though, GEs and GKs are faster on the straights because their coefficient of drag is significantly smaller. In a quick Google search, GDs are around 0.36, whereas GEs and GKs are closer to 0.336. This is a really significant amount when we get closer to speeds of 80mph 😅

@@RossomeSauce1 No problem. Really technical reason, just a question, do you ever seen a Honda CR-Z in these Sundae Cup? If allowed, it's a lowered variant of a Jazz GE 1.5 it will weight more tho

@@jolladevices Yup! They're legal for Sundae Cup!! Bronson drove one at NJMP and Mid Ohio last season, and it's pretty quick because of its drag profile. The battery drains in less than a lap, so the hybrid system is more of a detriment 'cause of the weight, but it's still a really good car for the class 👍

To be fair, it also has a top speed 10-15 mph lower 😅

It's actually the 1.5L! It's the USDM-spec GD3, and it makes somewhere between 93-100 WHP depending on which DynoJet you ask lol The GE8 Fit is super similar to the CRZ because they share the same engine and a lot of the same suspension. I'd definitely recommend looking into either the GD3 or GE8 if you don't mind the low power output 🙃

@@RossomeSauce1 yes. I am deciding between a GD or a GE Fit (Jazz), but there's a relatively price difference, with the GD way lower... There are major difference on the tuning parts between them? Also I read the GD engines have more low end torque, and knowing how the CR-Z 1.5 drive when the battery is discharged, I probably decided

@@jolladevices Virtually the same, but the GE (2nd gen) is the better car on paper. If both cars are the same price, there's a few reasons I'd choose the GE: 1) Stiffer rear torsion beam (via reinforcement) on the Sport trim GEs 2) Telescoping steering wheel on GEs. Tailored Chassis Solutions sells a 50mm OEM wheel extender for the GD (1st gen), but the GE basically has this from the factory. You need this if you are taller than the average Japanese citizen. 3) The 1.5L engine was an afterthought on the GD, as overseas, they initially came with a 1.3L and CVT. This shows very strongly in the GD's rear engine mount design, which to be blunt, is dogshit. It's a mount that requires you to effectively remove all three other engine/transmission mounts so that you can pivot the engine enough to undo the bolts for the rear mount. The GE's rear engine mount takes twenty minutes, and ten of those minutes are raising and lowering the car. 4) Aftermarket support is generally considered better on the GE. It's typically easier to find parts for it because it had a longer run in the U.S. vs the GD. The GD was only 2007-2008, whereas the GE was 2009-2013 and shared many parts with the CR-Z. 5) You get more power from the GE out of the box (GE 117 BHP vs GD 108 BHP) and it weighs only 50lb more (GE Curb 2,520lb vs GD Curb 2,471lb) 6) You get more cup holders in the GE There are two reasons to NOT buy a GE: 1) You can't get them without TPMS, whereas the 2007 GD did not have TPMS. The 2008 GD had TPMS. The only thing this affects is your TPMS light being visible on the dash, which can be fixed with electrical tape and a gauge cluster removal. 2) The GE has Vehicle Stability Assist to overcome, and pulling the fuse also disables ABS. VSA is defeatable using this guide for facelifted GEs (2012-2013), but I haven't heard whether it also works or is necessary for 2009-2011 models. Guide to disable here, written by Robert Rieker: torquesteersite.wordpress.com/.../ge-honda.../... Basically, both are equally competitive, and I'd buy a GE over a GD for the same price any day of the week. In reality, GEs are more expensive, so I'd realistically recommend buying a GE over a GD if the GE is no more than $2k-$3k over what GDs with similar mileage are going for in your area.

@@jolladevices The torque on the GE is also the same as the GD in the U.S. actually. The GE will definitely accelerate better though.

@RossomeSauce what an answer! 👍 I have to say I will probably use the Fit mostly as daily with few bolt-on mod like intake (HKS already bought for CR-Z, compatible in case of GE6), exhaust terminal and lowering/spoiler :-) Locally I see the GD (1.2 or 1.4L) in the range 2k-4k euros, 200-280.000 km while the GE are in the 4k-up to 9k(!) euros, always 1.2/1.4L usually with less km like 150-230.000 km. Thanks anyway

That was the goal lol. I saw those lower-thirds from Matt Amys, and I was like "I should really use those in a video" 😅

Definitely trying to make the most of my life with this weird economy car lol, thanks 😁

I mean, I guess lol. It's not like I mislabeled it though, it pretty clearly says "Total Value of Cars Passed".

Kyle made me work so hard for that first place finish, so it was reeeally difficult to contain my excitement with the way it happened. Thanks ♥️

It just dives in like a missile lol, which is a weird thing to say about something that tops out at 107mph 😅

I'm running Fortune Auto 510-Series coilovers at 12k/12k spring rates. I upgraded immediately after this event because the digressive valving is really valuable for track and street use, and my only regret is not buying nicer coilovers sooner haha

@@RossomeSauce1 What type of tires do you recommend with those rates? Also, would those rates work with street tires or would it overwork them? Thank you

@@findtherightbeat I use them with street tires all the time when I'm daily driving with no adverse effects on General Tire RT43s. For track use, the RT660s are actually extremely good if we're strictly talking for track use. They effectively matched the A052 on pace when I compared them back to back, but the RT660s provided much better steering feedback and telegraphed understeer through the steering wheel much better as an result. The 660s will wear too quickly to really be considered as a good daily driver tire in my mind, but they definitely work on the road. Just don't expect them to last over a year if you do 1-3 track days and also drive to work on them every weekday lol

@@RossomeSauce1 Thanks, really appreciate the detailed info on your tire set up!!

Not gonna lie, it was kind of surreal hearing Greg Creamer commentating and talking about Sundae Cup 😅

Mildly Rusty Fits are always the most threatening haha I'll be at Carolina Motorsports Park, Watkins Glen, NJMP, Mid Ohio, and Lime Rock for the 2023 season, so definitely find me at any of those if you'll be there 👍

@@RossomeSauce1 the fit may be threatenin by my driving sure wont be lol. See you at the Glenn, mid-o, and hopefully lime rock!

@@noahmasse3090 hope to see you guys at MidO!

Lime Rock IRL is sooooo good. Definitely one of the best paddocks and track environments I've ever seen, with Road America coming pretty close. Its length makes it very easy to focus in on each corner as well, whereas on longer tracks, your attention keeps getting diverted by the time you make a full lap. Maybe that's just me though lol

@@RossomeSauce1 my favorite so far is road Atlanta, but I was and AWFUL driver when I got to drive it haha

@@twiggymac Road Atlanta is definitely going to be on my list if Gridlife ever goes back by some miracle. Love that track in racing sims a lot 🤤

Yea, just imagine how fast this lap would have been if I was listening to Wangan Midnight's OST lol I listen to music while I'm lapping usually, and I haven't found a good way to have Nvidia only record Assetto's audio and leave the music out unfortunately.

I think if my car were to ONLY be a daily driver, I would recommend the following: Low Budget: Progress Rear Sway Bar Buddy Club or CheddasAuto short shifter Med Budget: 15x7.5+35 flow-forned wheels (Konig "gram" series) 205/50R15 tires within your budget High budget: 1-way digressive coilovers Hondata FlashPro with tune I would also recommend the Works Bell Hub and Steering Wheel if you would really like more leg space, but you will lose your airbag, so it's situational. The mods listed above, however, are all beneficial with minimal NVH penalty, so that's why I'd recommend for a daily driver.

@@RossomeSauce1 Thanks dude!

@@joeschmo61321 The other thing I didn't include is picking up a pair of camber bolts (SPC and Moog) if you plan to do autocross or something. These will get you an extra degree or so of front camber, and get you significantly more cornering grip. The negative effect on tire wear is why I wouldn't quite do it for a car that only sees daily-duty, but it's really good if you get into doing autocross on occasion since they only cost $15-$30

@@RossomeSauce1 what size rear sway bar do you recommend? also really appreciate what you do for the fit community.

The turn-in I think is more due to the tire model. It's a lot more intricate than I currently know how to deal with modding-wise, and it definitely scrubs a lot more speed than real RT660s with the same slip angle. The shifting I think is mostly due to the increased revlimiter that I now have on my own car. I was shifting closer to 6,800RPM in my actual car (or 7,200RPM for certain corners), but the OEM revlimiter is 6,700RPM. But thanks though! I definitely spent a lot of time modifying @kilin_rc's Fit mod, and this helps a lot with finding a true optimal line on tracks that I'd previously never driven on.

Full layout, no chicane 👍

@@RossomeSauce1 Thanks 👍Great moves my friend.

This is amazing how close mod is to reality.