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I've got a tip, I see you have small tape bleeding. I'd take your clear mat and spray your tape lines before you put the first of the main coats it should help seal the tape a little better and it being mat it works like a primer!!! Ralph
Lots of great info. I'm building mine with an upgraded brushless motor and ESC. Surprised you didn't do the same! What do you think about this upgrade?
Thanks buddy! I wanted to try it 100% stock at first. If you watch the later videos, I still kept it brushed, but used a HW 1080 and a Holmes Hobbies motor
@@TheRCNetwork I did notice you used the HW 1080 ESC. It's an ESC I frequently use. This is my first experience with a brushless setup and I'm on hold with a few technical difficulties but Amain Hobbies is working diligently to resolve these difficulties. Thanks again for your video...
Do you think running the Pro4hd 3500kV - 3S LiPo would be better in this truck rather than the 4300kv? Im going to be building mine soon and don't plan on racing it at any clubs. Mainly using the truck for a small backyard track / a little bashing. I will be running the rx8 gen 3 and the same protek servo you got. Any info helps man! Awesome build!
I 100% think it would be a beast and run SO much more efficiently on 3s with a 3000kv motor. 3500kv you might run into some heat issues - If you ever saw my DB48 videos, I ran the 3000kv pro4HD on 3s and it was great, stayed cool and no battery issues. Some people tested the 3500kv and couldn't keep it cool enough - one guy actually had the solder melt off of his connectors. I built it on 2s just because of the roar rules for SCT
Yikes...always a fear of mine with these higher powered electronics. Which AGFRC servo? Was it a direct wire like this one (two wire sections coming off of the Servo), or one that's powered through your ESC/radio (One wire section coming off of the servo)? If it's an HV servo (one wire) it likely over powered your receiver/esc causing the malfunction. Traxxas electronic don't have BEC's built in. A BEC would regulate the amount of power that the servo would get. That's what likely caused the issue. I have used a similar version to this servo (but 3s direct wire) in my Traxxas TRX-4, but with an updated ESC/motor, but still with TQI and it worked fine.
@@TheRCNetwork In this case it's on my erevo 2.0 with a Max6 ESC and TQI rx/tx. Switching it over to a Flysky GT5 setup now. I don't want to fry the new one, lol. Servo is a AGFRC 62KG Brushless. It's got the separate power wire with jst adaptor to my 3s battery balance lead. This is my first one like this. Could it be overpowered because it's a dual 3s battery truck? I'm not sure if that's how it works. The servo is rated for 4s. Thinking I'll just get a BEC. Thanks for your reply.
I would bet that's what it is...I haven't run a dual battery with a direct wire before. I'm not sure a BEC will help you either, as you're running a direct power servo. I would just run a regular HV servo (the one wire version) - Look at the A81 series they're what I run in all of my 1/8th and 1/7th scales with no issues on torque or speed. The Max 6 should be able to handle it without a BEC as well (I ran that ECS in my Mojave EXB with a lower powered A80 servo
Ok what do you think about this BEC? It's pricey but seems it would work? REEFS206 8.4v 10a Ez-Bec. I really don't want to run another battery and it's been too long to return this servo. Another possible option is a Castle 0400.
Like I said, since the direct servo bypasses the ESC/Receiver for power, an external BEC doesn't really matter. I've only used direct power servos when the battery I use are the same voltage - 3s or 4s and match the voltage of the direct wire servo
@@beercheersrccrawlers after my initial build and review of the XL kit on launch - yeah, many years ago, I was sent upgrade parts from Hot Racing to test out. Were they all needed, nope, but they looked pretty good. The XL really just needed the steering parts, as the stock parts were really squirrelly
Hey Rich I just wanted to say nice vibes but can you help me with something I have the kraton 6s exb what is the biggest battery I can use for my kraton exb but I just want to use 22.2v 9500mah but if I can go bigger please tell me thanks 😊
Thanks buddy. Check my Mojave EXB videos, I used the two largest 3s packs and they just barely fit in that tray - I believe it was these: bit.ly/2QbBcsx
@@Crypto_Brandon typically no electronics come with kits you have to build. Especially race kits. In my next video, I cover the electronics I would suggest. There’s not too many good choices for electronics for SCT trucks like this one
The Amber color handles comes from the Thorp brand of Allen wrenches that MIP bought out when Thorp went out of business, though Im glad they continued with that style. RIP Thorp.
Yep, Eustace, the owner at MIP made a deal with Thorp to continue the legacy of the amber handle. It was a deal to keep the name + MIP at first and then fully MIP later on.
Love this product I am a hpi racing on road rc car collector I have 6 sprint carsall upgraded with exotek. Carbon kits and yeah racing after market up grades their all shelf queens upgrade to hex head screw. Kit as all sprint 2 cars came with Philips head screws
They might be hard to come by as TD folded many years ago. This was their final SCT truck and probably in the top 3 of 4wd SCT's even for today (right behind the Tekno and TLR)
You'll need to check the size of the Sledge's tray and the size of the GensAce. This series was made specifically for the large amount of Arrma Vehicles
The blue looks pink? That’s not normal colourblindness, that’s extra special (needs) colourblindness!!! The blue doesn’t look pink at all chief but aside from that, great video and review.
I'm curious about heat with this truck. A couple of the guys at my local track (asphalt and large) have this truck and they have all had trouble with heat. We are limited to 2S and most of us have 2800kv motors, in this pretty heavy truck. They have the sliding motor mount and have put in some pretty big pinions, 25T and larger. so as you can imagine, their batteries get pretty hot, and so do the motors. I'm picking mine up on Thursday. Have you had this heat problem? how did you deal with it?
To give you some backstory on 4wd SCT - originally, they were much lighter - like the AE SC10 4x4, the Hong Nor Nexx10, the Jammin SCRT10, etc. It wasn't till the Losi SCTE came out that scales started to tip to beef up durability. Then, of course, Tekno put their hat in the ring with the SCT410, which was about 1lbs heavier than the SCTE. Couple the new weights with the mandated 2s by ROAR and you had electronics pushed to the limit. Batteries were usually the casualty with these trucks or the ESC based on the gearing. As for the new SCT410 2.0, it can run on the newest 2s electronics with ease - usually the 550 canned 4300kv will be the sweet spot using Tekno's advised pinion. Battery wise, the highest mah and c rating you can afford or about 7500mah and at least 65c/130c. Now for your specific instance - 2800kv motors are going to run MUCH better on 3s electronics. By adding super tall pinions, you're making that motor work overtime, thus putting even more pressure on the battery as well. I would advise running a 4000kv (if you want the added torque) and drop that pinion way down in teeth. If you see my truck in the video, I'm only running the included RX8 fan and nothing else - I've had no heat problems and everything has come off of the track at normal temps. If I had it my way, I would only run 3s electronics in these trucks - like the 3000kv on 3s with a decent sized 3s pack. No need to bulk up the C ratings either if you run 3s.
My question is when you spray the body do you always have to spray the black for the final touch to make it dark or is that just for that color for an example I seen you spray a raptor body two-tone color like a blue and black with the white stripe I like that I just want to know after I'm done painting the body do I spray it with a black coat just to make it pop
If you goto that other video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yrVkOuRbusI.html at 4:41, I go over what it looks like if you use different color backers on that metallic blue. Typically, if you use black, it will deepen/darken the color, silver and white will lighten or make other colors like yellow or orange "pop"
This rig is so impressive, my first run on the kit was epic, bit the tire situation sucks. Better off to just run the stock set up. I've been through all the variations and they are all shit. Definitely a miss design from yeti. The growler is absolutely not a scale tire to this rig. The bfg is the most scale tire for this era. The bulging sidewall is hideous. Looks terrible. Looks like a Mexican lowrider. Looks like ass
@@toddbertram6556 I’d hat to see your unedited version of this comment. Keep in mind, this was built EARLY in the Yeti era and that parts that are available now are pretty wide and available. 🤔
Well, I disagree with the jumping.....I thought mine jumped great in stock config. The track I was at was quite blown out, but the jumps that had a good face, made it soar like in the opening scene. Slop wise, I also disagree....I thought that it was fine and on par with their other vehicles. Sure, it's not touring car precise or even 1/10th scale buggy precise, but it's solid for what it is. For the shocks - I agree. It should have come with the 17mm shocks. And don't get me started on the motor mount 😁
@@TheRCNetwork mayb its my super blown out low grip dusty tracks but i lowered shock oils to 45, 40 ae oils. Swapped pistons front to rear. Went to green rear springs and added a 20 gram weight 2 rear for it to feel good on track
10 YEARS LATER! Revisiting this video because I just got a stock HPi Sprint 2 Flux. With the HPi Flux Vapor ESC (rebranded SW3) and the HPi Flux Vektor 5900KV motor. Even though the HPi website states the Vapor ESC is NOT 3s compatible that is misleading, it isn't 3s compatible with the 5900KV Vektor motor installed! It IS actually 3s compatible up to 4800KV (and can maintain high drift revs well enough if you add your own fan like HPi did on their second release of the Vapor, the Vapor Pro). I wanted to run 3s so i swapped out the 5900KV for a 3700KV VRX purple 3650 to match the integy purple upgrades i added. But since I came across a new HPi FLUX MMH-4000, so i guess i will be doing some motor comparisons! So I decided to build a pair of CS drift cars using this HPi and a Tamiya TA04 (after finding the rare one way front diff for each, new, at very good prices!). After a quick search i found this video and discovered Amazon has all three parts you recommend so I ordered them! Thank you SO MUCH for taking the time to produce this video and posting it! You are still helping peoples like me a decade later and that's just pretty darn AWESOME!!!!! 🤙
Axial was good company but after horizon hobby brought them up they're killing the brand..... Axial should make rock races and rock bouncers not losi... Losi have to stick with their racing DNA... Not making rock races because it sucks.... Axial Yeti was a good U4Rc standard rock racer... This should make another one to.... Because the specialized in that
I can't agree more. Just look at Axial Fest - HH is just phoning it in until someone there says to pull the plug. When Jeff, Rodney, Brandon and others were there, it was great. Now it's just a skeleton of it's former self.
I wouldn't bet on it. Maybe some of the parts not affiliated with the drivetrain? I was told that the drivetrain was slightly altered to mount today's electronics.
Hey Rich, long time viewer of your videos, particularly the build overviews. A quick question: in your honest opinion, your thoughts on the 410 2.0 vs the 410.3. i have the .3 and from the looking at the manuals and research I've done, it just seems to be built a little more heavy duty compared to the 2.0 such as the bigger shocks. Also I'd rather have a sliding motormount. Additionally, i wonder if the rather narrow chassis body of the .3 allows for less parachuting. Just curious to see what you think. Thanks.
IMO, the SCT410 2.0 drives better than the SCT410.3. Durability wise the .3 has the advantage along with the motor mount. So, it's a trade off. There are mods out there to fit the EB48 2.X motor mount to the SCT410 2.0 though - it will require moving the side guard and possibly the chassis plate to make it work. According to Tekno, they did extensive testing on the 13mm vs 17mm shocks on the SCT and it came down to the team liking the 13mm and how tunable those were for slightly lighter vehicles. I always preferred the 17mm shocks though - which is something that can be modded easily as well - but you will have to tune it. As for parachute effect - all SCT's suffer. The .3 probably had it worse IF you didn't use the plexi sideboards. I think the SCT410 2.0 did well with the parachute effect, but I did cut out quite a bit of the rear of the body.
Any good Lipo battery charger will charge these. Make sure you have the correct connector as well for the charger to go up to the GensAce battery connector
I run the Team Orion Touch Duo charger. For the money and the interface (touchscreen) I love it. There's some great ones from Hitec, Protek and GensAce as well.
29:36 I have an issue… when I tighten the screws on the bottom, the suspension trailing arms becomes stiff and very hard to move… if I back off the bottom screws by a 1/4 turn then they loosen up… but when I tighten the bottom screws the arms stop moving… it happens with both the left and the right… any suggestions? I might have to post a video in order to explain
@@TheRCNetwork Figured it out.. the rearmost piece that holds the rod was upside down.. I always thought parts like that were "fat side down" but I was wrong.. after looking at the instructions again... the thin side faces down.. when I flipped them over, everything came together butter smooth
Good day RC friends, does anyone know why I use 3s with this hobbywing 2200kv combo and an XR8PRO ESC Are the batteries lasting 3 minutes? My batteries are 8000mah 80c 3s but they last 3 minutes or less. Is the ESC being protected from something? The motor says in the manual that it is 2 to 6s. and the ESC from 2 to 4s But with 3s batteries I have not been able to make the batteries last more than 3 minutes. if someone could help me
Between which RC's? Fast is all relative to the driver and the track. If you're talking speed, that's just a mathematical equation. How fast will it go down the straight? As fast as you can before you have to turn at the first corner! If you're talking time - that's 100% driver skill
