www.youtube.com/@varnasfix?sub_confirmation=1 Welcome to the channel!
When financeσ take a turn in your life you are left with many obligations and little money to spend. Is it possible for one person to DIY as much as possible and save some money whenever possible? That is what we find in this channel taking care of any repairs around the household, garden, car, electronic devices, electrical, restorations, home appliances and anything that comes up. Can we have a good time doing all those tasks and learn something in the process? Is is worth it?
Hope you find the content helpful!
Interests are: cars, driving, repairs, fixes, how to videos, solutions, electronics, pcb boards, arduino, r/c cars, landscapes, time lapse etc
Yes it did work without the calibration but i did it anyway through MultiEcuScan. Maybe it was reset because the battery was disconnected for some time...
@@varnasfix I'm having the same issue my Alfa Romeo giulietta, and I seen on the forums that I might need to calibrate the throttle once replaced. I don't have the multiecuscan, but I do have a Bluetooth obd. So that's why I was asking
@@lilshex Multiecuscan has a free version but the free version won't let you calibrate (if i remember correctly). If your OBD tool is ELM327 it is compatible with MES. The "registered" version costs 50e so it is not that bad... Hope that helps!
The issue was resolved by replacing the throttle body and the problem was confirmed to be the throttle position potentiometer inside the throttle body as seen in the video. Generally problems with the multair unit create a fault code that is stored in the ECU. Whenever a solenoid goes bad in the unit it will generate a fault code. About the multiair filter? It is a service item and if someone does not replace it they should at least remove it and clean it! Personally I did replace it with a new one sometime ago....
@varnasfix I'm looking at buying a mito for dirt cheap, but it has a multiair failure. The car is far away so I haven't looked at it. I was hoping it was the throttle body so I could replace it while I'm there instead of going back and forth, as it is a 6 hour trip one way. If it's not the throttle body, then it's not worth buying. Is the multi air code generic or specific to the throttle body.
@@edwardsingh8563 The multiair problem and the throttle body problem are two totally different problems with different symptoms.... When the multiair is faulty you get misfire error codes stored, also you hear the engine misfiring.... With the throttle body there aren't any codes stored or just the throttle position sensor error.. Of course you need an OBD reader to read the ECU faults.... It would be better to send someone local there to read the codes and send a report back to you...
Many thanks, the smaller spring popped out on strip down and I didn't see where it came from. Your video showed me the correct positioning on re-assembly.
The internal series resistance of the capacitor rises which heats up and boils the electrolyte inside the capacitor which in turn produces gases and internal pressure rises to the point that they blow their top in order to vent the gas. If you see the aluminum heatsink has a mark from their gases. Most of the capacitors have an indentation on top for that specific reason. It is a straight giveaway that the capacitor is damaged when you see the tops swollen like that.
Hello! I have a Delonghi 4200S coffee machine with electronics type 5213213691. I replaced the resistor R55 47 Ohms 3W and the coil L1 1mH, I checked the two capacitors C1, C3- 4700 nanofarads 400V, they show a good value, I also replaced the capacitor C2- 100 nanofarads... ..but when I powered it up, the R55 resistor and the L1 coil burned out at once. Nothing else appears to be burned out on the circuit. I did not replace the LNK364GN, but it does not appear to be burned. The varistors were not burned out, but I replaced the VDR1 varistor anyway. Where could the fault be, a short circuit? What should I watch? Thanks for the help! Sorry, but I translated it with Google Translate. I hope you understand.
Great video! Same capacity caps with different voltage ratings will have different ESR values. You can have a look at the ESR table for this, there are tons of them on Google
...the timing chain has a bit of slack, about 1/2" or so, on the driver's side ... passenger side is tight, the side where the tensioner is installed ...the chain, sprockets, all look good & shinny, no sign of damage as far as the eye can see ... should this be a concern ? G54B engine, 2.6L auto, gas
You are welcome! I got the part from a local shop in my country, i doubt they have international shipping. You can search google for the part number 18150061700 and your country "code" to check for local shops, for example for France search "18150061700 *.fr" without the quotation marks. I see a shop called wolfswinkel in the Netherlands that has it in stock but it better and cheaper if you can find it in the country you are situated. Hope that helps!
Actually it is because i disconnected the battery to do the procedure and that is how it got reseted. I want to do i video update about that... And yes it has come back. The treatment on the plug is to prevent that. After moving the seat all the way to the front and back the light has appeared.
@@varnasfix you told the guy 2 years ago in the comments below that you didn't disconnect the battery. Gotcha! 😎 Lol.. so which one is it? And did you ever fix the light for good? If so, how?
@@ve2430 Yes that is why i want to do a video update on the subject... I didn't know then what i know now :) Even the slightest disruption in the airbag circuit will cause a fault to be stored and displayed by the airbag light. So I must have disconnected the battery as there no other way to reset the code except with a OBD scanner that has SRS level diagnostics.. Will try to do the video update as soon as possible!
Hi I have a question about the brake pads, because 3 months ago, I bring my car to the garage do the brake job, they help me to replace the new brembo Xtra discs and pads, and now the pads have clicking noise when I am parking my car, especially when I change the direction to move forward and backward, every changing direction I hit brake, it have a click sound. I asked them to check it again two weeks ago, after the checking they say it is completely normal for the brembo 4 pots Caliper, because the pads are moving inside the caliper. But it is a bit annoying, I am thinking to change new pads and hope the clicking sounds will gone, but which pads do you suggest? Do you think EBC pads will a bit larger then brembo, so the shifting will be lesser than brembo now? Thank you Dennis
Hello there! First of all are you 100% sure you have the correct brake pads installed and that all the hardware (shim plate and metal piece/spring) was installed correctly? In part 1 of the video i got the correct brake pad part number but the pads were mixed inside the box and got 1X correct and 1X wrong part ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8kTC8X2fcMs.html... Also applying a tiny bit of copper grease on the side of the pads as seen at 7:20 will help with squeaking / clucking sounds... Nevertheless a tiny bit of clicking sound when moving from forward to reverse and vice versa is normal... hope that helps!
@@KargasKargas-cb1wk Το πρόγραμμα δεν έχει και τόσο σημασία αλλά καλό είναι να δοκιμάσεις αν και στα άλλα προγράμματα έχει την ίδια συμπεριφορά... Δυστυχώς δεν μου έχει τύχει τέτοια βλάβη...
Much obliged, thank you!!!!!! As a young guy living on his own it's just a task of figuring it all out, and damn does it feel good if someone on the internet has the answers
@@Utlathram80 Are exactly the same leds flashing? If yes then it is the same error... Make sure there aren't any foreign objects obstructing the drain pump. Do you hear the drain pump working or trying to work? if not maybe the drain pump itself is the problem. If the flashing leds are different then it is an indication of a different error...
Thanks for your comment! You are absolutely right! Presenting fault finding and measurements would be more interesting and it is something i try to do in the newer videos... Camera setup did not help for that plus the "first repair" with the second repair were many months apart which made more difficult to diagnose in front of the camera.
@@varnasfix yes true, but it stays in place, when stranded wire absorbs more solder cools down quickly to prevent plastics from melting and can be use for cleanup... Its just a similar way of doing it.. disadvantages cannot be used on very long chips
Thanks for the tip! I am going to give that a try... But how much faster can it be? Plus 1mm2 copper wire is so cheaper... Wick is needed anyway to clean the pads...
Those Weller tips will outlast any current tip from Hakko and the 900M iron station varieties ... they are worth their money when replaced ... glad to see you leave solder (tinned) on the tips after a job, it protects the tips from oxidisation and corrosion ... those Weller irons are a solid bit of kit ... shame you didn't change the cable though ...
Those tips are solid! And yes tinning is a must for longevity of the tips but also for proper soldering... The tip i have destroyed are from brute force (the metal came off) and from forgetting the soldering iron switched on! Now about the cable? Honestly I couldn't believe it was so soft and flexible after all those years so decided to keep the original...
I got the exact same iron that I "borrowed" from work back in the 80's ... I've recently just refurbished mine but didn't change/replace anything, except the soldering iron cable, to a longer round silicon lead ... I love this iron ... it has just the right wattage to cover a lot of the work I do ... I also have a small tip iron station for micro soldering ... Weller is a good make ...
Yes it just works! And it is very versatile with all the different tips... On the Hakko knockoff i have a small tip for the same reason... But most of the times i prefer the Weller with the small tip.. Speed wise in soldering it just does not compare...
Καλησπέρα, Μπράβο φίλε μου σε ευχαριστουμε, το καθαρισα , αλλα εμενα το λαστιχακι ήταν οκ, αυτο που παρατηρησα ειναι οτι το "τακ" που κάνει η ηλεκτροβαλβιδα ίσα που ακουγεται, υπαρχει περιπτωση να μην δουλεθει με δυναμη; Ή αυτα ή δουλευουν ή δεν δουλέυουν καθολου; Πάντως το έβαλα σε βρυση (γιατι διαβασα ότι θελει να εχει και πιεση για να δουλεψει)( και δουλευει κανονικά απλα ισα που ακουγεται το ανοιγμα κλεισιμο.....δεν ξερω εαν οφείλεται αλλου αυτό....
Χαίρομαι που βοήθησε το βίντεο! 👍 Νομίζω δεν είναι πολύ έντονο το κλικ. Είχα βάλει και γράσο σιλικόνης και λειτουργούσε πολύ ομαλά. Σίγουρα έχει σημασία και σε τι κατάσταση είναι μπαταρία...
All of the irons where I used to work had the needle point type. I did not know that the number on it represented the temperature. I had replace my iron and used a number 6 needle point tip tip from a drawer that I found at work but there was a sticker on the base station where somebody had written 235 degrees. That must have been for the tip that was on when I bought it. I had to add an Earth cable as the new iron had an Earth lead on it so I re wired the transformer drilled a small hole in the front plate and used epoxy resin to hold a barrier strip connector to the top rhs. It looks good and still works perfectly 34 yrs since I fixed it.
After nearly 40+ years one of my tcps handpieces wont switch anymore. After pulling of the clear cap and cleaning the contacts it is working again. I'm curious wich modern solder station will still work in 40 years from now :) .
My father used it's predecessor (Deep blue case, black handpiece) for at least 30 years daily until he died. I inherited it from him, still works. Personally i use a Weller PU81 with WSP80. Made 2007 i bought it heavilly used but works perfectly, just needed a new tip collar for the handpiece. Weller was the shit back then, Made in Germany. Now not so much anymore.
Indeed they were the shit back then! Served and serving hours of soldering :) I think now they are overpriced, but on the other hand all the good ones are...
