I just stripped all the weak sheathing and put 3 coats ( dry between coats)of liquid electrical tape..seems to do the trick 😊Now the tiny missing gold contacts are a different problem..🫤
It's interesting, but for a few notes. 1) I worked for a while in an IPhone/iPad call center. Of the 50 agents, only one owned an iPhone. We all knew how clumsy, expensive and stupid Apple products are. Three iOS updates and angry customers cured me forever from Apple Malaria. The Lightning Connector is the ultimate stupidity of the Apple line. 2) What is this "keyboard community" about? Screwing up a working USB keyboard connector with MilSpec metal connectors is pointless, unless your computing life is mixed with a fantasy about helping the Autobots fight the Deceptions. I compute in the real world, not in fanfic. 3) I liked the idea of using Paracord to strengthen a cable, but you didn't make it clear that the outer purple sheath was ALSO Paracord! For a moment, I thought this was some expensive junk you had to pay our Chinese Overlords a fortune for, with a three month wait for delivery.
Fyi watch at 2x speed and it’s still very watchable, music still works and it turns into a 9 minute video…. (I’m thinking he did maybe did this on purpose LOL… it’s actually really cool!)
I just purchased this case and will mount the CPU AIO on the side vertically, because the hot air goes up, haven't you concerned to mount it the same? Why on the top? It will be warmer that it should I guess.
Hilarious that I found a video for this exact issue with this exact mouse. Figured I'd just google what kind of switches it uses to solder in new ones and here we are. Razer wouldn't warranty it 2 months after the year expired, so it sat in a drawer for a year or two.
Awesome tutorial ! i managed to change the switches on my Mamba Wireless all by myself ! the new switches are working perfect but now my battery indicator on synapse is showing 0% battery and the red light on the wheel keeps flashing of battery low. I did something wrong ? the mouse is working perfectly without the wire so i didn`t do something to the battery i guess. Great job, you helped us massively.
Nice video until the soldering started D: I'm sure you've improved since then but flux and use tweezers to hold the copper braid, that thing gets toasty!
@fizo can you go into detail about the note mentioned that said a 56k ohm resistor would be necessary in between pins 2 and 3 for the usb C soldering job. I'm thinking that is an important detail that nobody fully understood. Do you buy it with the resistor pre installed? What is the purpose of it and what are the purchasing options, or when do we need it? Did your cable have one? Sorry if this has been discussed already or if some of my facts are wrong.
Hi! I'm new to this, and the reason why I watched my video, is because in order to extend it, I cut the cable of a Ubiquity G4 Doorbell PoE Adapter that convert PoE to USB-C . There are 5 cables with a plastic insulation (two reds, one white, one green and one blue), all five shielded and there's also non insulated cable around all of this and I don't know what there are for. But I suppose I need to connect them from both ends and then I would need 6 Pins GX16 connector. Is that correct? EDIT: I just learned that this mesh of cable are part of and shield :D So 5 pins only are necessary.
I found my Razer Mamba mouse a nightmare. Within a year the battery was completely dead - it hardly charges anymore and won't last for more than a minute. On top of that, the mouse wheel just scrolls in a random direction, regardless how you turn the wheel. Together with the terrible software from Razer, I'm not putting this much effort in any revival attempts... But at least I learned that they use Torx T6 screws, which is smaller than any of my tools can handle... that doesn't help either ;-)
This guy need s more subscribers than he deserves. This is amazing those other tutorials on RU-vid never explained properly. After watching this I had an amazing springy cable. Bro don't quit yt imma need ur tutorials
Unfortunately this is no USB cable as it is clearly out of spec, especially regarding the lack of shielding and drain wire. A quote from the USB 2.0 Spec (Rev. 2.0) says "Cable construction must contain a braided outer shield and a metallic inner shield. A drain wire of 28 AWG must be incontact with both shields" Furthermore, a USB Type-C to USB 2.0 Standard-A Cable Assembly shall have (according to 3.5.2, Note 5 of USB Type C Spec Rev. 2.2) shall have "Shield and GND grounds [...] connected within the USB Type-C and USB 2.0 Standard-A plugs on both ends of the cable assembly"
So i made all steps, and when reversed i got a really perfect coiled cable divided by three :( There are two parts where i didn't get any coil, the cable is semi straight there, any ideas on how to troubleshoot that? Should I re-reverse the cable and start again with the heat?
