Hilarious that I found a video for this exact issue with this exact mouse. Figured I'd just google what kind of switches it uses to solder in new ones and here we are. Razer wouldn't warranty it 2 months after the year expired, so it sat in a drawer for a year or two.
Exactly, and also in order to quickly unsolder a micro-switch just hold the iron on all 3 legs simultaneous, it will pop out in a second. Then clean the pads with a suction pump. Cheers!
@@flrazvan yes - another trick I have seen a lot of electronic technicians do when the tip is too small to cover all three legs is to add a lot of solder until you have a molten blob that is big enough to cover all three pins while you just hold the soldering tip in that blob, then the switch will also just pop out and you can clean up the blob with a solder sucker or wick.
I've had this exact problem occur to me a couple of times on different mice and only recently found out that you could fix it. I also love this mouse and don't want to change it, just fix it. I've never done these kinds of repairs in my life but I will give it a shot!
Add one to the ranks having the left mouse button double click issue that found and used this video to fix this mouse. The only Issue I had was getting the front lip of the assembly under the left and right buttons to properly seat and click. I had to use a curved metal spudger to push the top plastic molding down into place into the clips on the bottom molding. Great video and would highly recommend these switches as a replacement so far.
@@vagkry 3.7v is correct but the packaging shows 3.8v. The actual PL383450 is standard 3.7v just as any lipo that size. Not sure if youtube will hide it or not but I've linked an image in the next comment showing the actual battery pulled from the mouse.
hey ,just for the sake of interest , can i use any other local made battery with just the same rating as mentioned except the mAh part where it is slight higher also how do i find the connector or how to connect one from my previous stock one
Thanks for uploading this guide. Recommend using the SS-02 Desoldering pump helps desolder with ease compared to the cheap desolder pumps that have plastic tips.
Great video! I followed along and my switches work well! I have a couple warnings for newbies such as myself: MOST IMPORTANT: When doing this, as many others have said in the comment section, you can actually get clicking issues as when you re-assemble it, the plastic mould on the mouse shell would not make contact with the switch itself. I have a theory on this: the plastic threading used in this mouse sucks and when re-assembling it, unless you get a very tight and secure fit on the screw, the mouse will cease to click. Some have overcome this by using the plastic method. I used tape and it's very uncomfortable. Secondly, be careful when removing the middle click connector (black-white-white cables). my black cable was very flimsy and I ended up pulling it out of the plug. luckily I was able to solder it back on and my middle click works fine. For about 5 minutes my red switches worked great! And I highly recommend trying this method if you're willing to go through the risk. Unfortunately, if you make mistakes as I have, you can ruin your mouse. Unfortunately I'm stuck with a rolled up piece of tape superglued to my mouse shell that allows me to click my buttons, but the actuation force is way off, and it sounds like shite. Goodluck everyone EDIT: The plastic trick worked well! I tried the flat part of a bottlecap. It's absolutely perfect. It should be noted that my mouse is no longer perfectly held together so I cant drop it without damaging it now.
You should get a better iron with a screen for proper temperature control like a t12 iron which has the heating element in the tip that will help you get heat in joints without using excess heat. For solder braid add some rosin flux and a bit of solder to get started
Nice video until the soldering started D: I'm sure you've improved since then but flux and use tweezers to hold the copper braid, that thing gets toasty!
Awesome tutorial ! i managed to change the switches on my Mamba Wireless all by myself ! the new switches are working perfect but now my battery indicator on synapse is showing 0% battery and the red light on the wheel keeps flashing of battery low. I did something wrong ? the mouse is working perfectly without the wire so i didn`t do something to the battery i guess. Great job, you helped us massively.
Hey, are those Kailhs still working in your mouse? Wanted to check, my Mamba has been having issues with the left click, and I was thinking about replacing the switches.
I'm worried about the same thing. I have a razer mamba TE with cable, and I have to switch the cable. However, I also have to remove those pads in order to fix it and I'm worried it won't slide as it used to do.
Buy some white teflon pads, they are usually avaible for every mouse on ebay/amazon for around 7$ and they are also better then the black stock teflon mix pads. Pure teflon slides much smoother and is more durable.
Awesome video, My mamba wireless was having random double clicking issues, I watched your video maybe 10 time while waiting for the switchs to arrive (Kailh GM 8.0). Disassembly was really not easy compared to your video, did you took it apart before ? desoldering/soldering the switch was also not easy mostly because am bad at it. Reassembly was also kinda shit at first because the shell button wouldn't make contact enough with the switchs (make sure to press on the button while screwing the screws back if it does not help add a little plastic plate between the swich and the shell button It's now working and the feel is amazing. thanks for the video
If you're having double click or click and drag issues, you can follow the first steps of the video to disassemble the shell with a Torx T6. After that, simply give the mouse button prongs a bit more surface area to contact the switches with by using one or two tiny rectangles of electrical tape on each of the button prongs. Reassembly of the two shell halves is actually fairly hard because the front of the bottom half of the mouse has a couple inward facing shelves that need to fit into alcoves on the top half, it takes some finessing to get them to be completely seated. You'll also need to play around with the two screws on the bottom of the mouse to make sure the mouse buttons properly click once the halves are complete, but it should fix the issue once they're properly adjusted.
I'm starting to get an issue with my razer mamba wireless where I click and hold onto something but it automatically lets it go (example: trying to drag a google window from one monitor over to the next, but stops halfway or shorter than I wanted to). Is this the same thing as the "double click" issue?
I found my Razer Mamba mouse a nightmare. Within a year the battery was completely dead - it hardly charges anymore and won't last for more than a minute. On top of that, the mouse wheel just scrolls in a random direction, regardless how you turn the wheel. Together with the terrible software from Razer, I'm not putting this much effort in any revival attempts... But at least I learned that they use Torx T6 screws, which is smaller than any of my tools can handle... that doesn't help either ;-)
I haven't taken my mouse apart but when I plugged it into another computer it started to smell burnt and now it doesn't work, what could it be and when I plug it into my laptop it says The capacity of the USB port has been exceeded. It cost me a lot of money and I can't find anyone or any guide to repair it or parts. I am from Venezuela. mamba elite
This fix the left click, hold and drag issue too? When it's office mode for work, moving windows around doing office work sucks I had to switch to a regular mouse to get my work done. I'm gonna have to try this fix.
Did everything according to the guide, works well, except for bottom glider, it has an edge which makes movement uncomfortable, need to find a replacement, do you know where to buy one, Bro
So is it not possible to fix the double click issues with some simple internal cleaning? Mostly cause I know my hands don't have the finesse to not mess up soldering/unsoldering something.
How do you realign the top and bottom of the moulded casing? I've disassembled mine to clean out the scroll wheel and I can't seem to align the pins inside to ensure the mouse buttons work
After fixing my scroll mouse and putting everything back my razor mouse on both of the clickings isn't like responding great :/ is there anything I can do for it to have like a more responding clicking?
Hello what is the different Kailh GM 4.0 vs Kailh GM 8.0 ??? as my Razer Mamba right button sticks alot and am thinking of opening her up and give her a clean or replace the switch's
Basically GM 8.0 is the latest model that rated to last 80 million clicks. GM 4.0 is older and is only rated to last 60 million clicks. In terms of feel, GM 8.0 is a bit soft than the 4.0, if you are after a more pronounced click go for the 4.0. HTH. :)
@@FIZOdigital Hi just done one switch and burn my fingers ha ha and it works gona do the other later on takes a long time to do just see a another mouse with swappable switches call "ASUS ROG Gladius II " is it not possable to do fix so you can make the switch's swappable on the Razer Mamba board ?? i think people would pay for that service !!!!!
I did this with my dad and the right click doesn’t seem to work unless you force it down. Both sides are hard to press. It seems as though my mouse is broke.mb
The only thing I could think of that would cause the hard to press problem is that if the 2 front clips that attaches the top and bottom case were not aligned or clipped properly. Please check your mouse reassemble. HTH. :)
@@FIZOdigital I've had the same problem cant seem to get the case to attach to the right side of the mouse which is why I found this video trying to figure out how to get it back on not properly not sure if I'm doing it wrong or what but the most I've got to attach is left click. Btw been trying for an hour in case you think it's a lack of effort and so you know just opened it for cleaning that's all
I don't remember having difficulty in putting the mouse back, anyway, just make sure to reverse the order on how you open the casing. Looking at the video, to open the mouse casing, you pry the back end of the mouse and then pull the top cover towards the back a bit to release the two front clips before you and lift upwards the top cover. So to put it back just reverse the order, align the top cover and then push down and forward so that the 2 front clips attached before finally pressing the whole top cover to close it. Again make sure the 2 front clip attaches/hooks up first, you might have to try and angle the top cover towards the front and push forward for them to hook. HTH. :)
@@FIZOdigital it looks like everything is fit well, but when I try clicking, there is no response edit: the left click works but the right click is very hard to press, and doesnt attach either
@@happymeal6622 take a thin hard plastic and push it under the right finger click thing, and push it down until you hear a click. you can do the same for the left side. the click is when the plastic ear clicks in place
Unfortunately, I didn't check what kind of switches they use for the side button, although, it should still be the same as main left and right buttons.
