Thanks for sharing your ideas but I believe those frames would be hard to pull them out with bees, second wax and propolis will stick them like glue together and they won’t slide to take a part.
I like the graphics, but will we be getting a more comprehensive look at gameplay and how the game works? This video doesn't really explain a whole lot.
Thanks for the comment! A short explanation of the rules and gameplay can be found on the Kickstarter page: www.kickstarter.com/projects/stroutsabout/cattlers-of-satan
It does and it doesn't. I have another video talking about this, but essentially they do seal the joint, but it's easily enough broken by running a knife along the seam of the joint. It hasn't been an issue getting the frames apart in the past.
I would love to see the design for the removable hanger bar. I’m interested in incorporating the slim profile of your 2.0 design, but would love to have a removable hanger that could basically make these frames compatible with Langstroth style boxes. I’d like to get an idea of how the removable hanger looks so I can alter it.
I haven't designed a removable hanger yet, but I agree with your idea that making something compatible with standard langstroth frames is the way to go.
I would be hesitant to make an extra deep frame without some kind of bracing dowel in the middle. The pine I used to make these frames is not super strong and I fear the sides of the frame would break too easily.
What as great job based on well thought out principles. on the well-being of the bees The only thing you might want to do, is add a blanking strip to your dovetail slot at the bottom of the bottom frame to stop the bee from filling the slot with propolis. Also, the deeper the frames, the greater the risk of crushing bees, greater still if the attached frames slide apart.. Further design can help negate this risk. I love fact that you have actually created your design. Well done again!!
Have you thought about changing the inner basket for the honey extractor? If you changed it, you wouldn't have to have the frame divided into two pieces and you would still be able to extract honey. Instead of bothering with frames all the time, you will only bother once when adjusting the honey extractor. There are also hives (Leyens, look for example for Dr Leo Sharaskin on the youtube) which have high frames and can be used in honey extractor.
Definitely another way to approach the problem! I've just found in my experience that honey extractors capable of holding extra deep frames are much harder to come by. But totally, Leyens hives and Sharashkin hives were very inspirational when I was building my hives.
David, I was unable to find out the weight of your 2.0 Horizondal beehive( empty). Do you have this information? I have already trouble on trying to understand the measures, as we do use metric... and Dadant... but trying to figure out the weight, .. its probably too much
i dont see why you call these "horizontal". if you do not expand horizontally,its just a deeper(longer) hive box. good marketing ploy,tho! but misleading. no offense,i really like much of what ive seen from you. the x2 frames are very nice! i especially like the one with thje dowel,none separable one. i will make them one day,myself.
If something is a really good idea you do not have to force it on people. If you do some research you will most likely find that this law came in shortly after tge pattent was approved on Langstroths hives. This is how things happen so often. Grease the right palms and they ensure you make a good profit.
Message to David Strout from Mike Purcell UK. Your analysis into understanding bee behavior that culminated into the now famous "sliding dovetail deep Langstroth frame" is quite honestly inspired and a genus innovative design. In your 1st video you came up with the idea of having a sliding dovetail for the top bar, this too was a brilliant idea because it allowed frames to be interchangeable. The 1st instinct of bees is to always draw comb starting from the top, with your design the bee keeper can do the old "switch a rooney", switch the top to the bottom and bottom to the top which gets bees drawing out comb in record time. Good luck with your endeavors and keep the broadcasting going....Cheers
Wow, you've really thought out all the aspects of concern very well!! Other than selling the plans for building do you plan to sell completed hives or the hive components for assembly, etc.? Thank you.
Did the bees propolize your double frame dovetail joints such that they are now frozen? This has been my biggest hang up in wanting to build 'em. Bees add propolis to everything!
@@DavidStrout000 What type of feeder are you using, how are you feeding them? Also, how are you treating them for mites this way? You can not use the sponge method.
I recently bought your plans for your double deep frames and I’ve built 33 of them for a new hive. As I’ve started building the hive I’ve realized I may not fully understand how it all works together. Could you answer a couple of questions? 1 - When assembled in the hive - the 1 3/8 frame hangers (top most part of frame) all fit flush against each other so that there’s no space for the bees to move across the top of the frames like they can when you use regular frames. Is this correct? On your September 2022 Hive Update video your hive seemed to have wooden slats on the top of your frames, so I got worried that perhaps I built my frames incorrectly and there should be space to allow the bees access to the top. 2 - Given the bees can’t access the top of the frames, what technique do you use to feed your bees. I was planning to use a division board feeder, but that won’t work with this set up if the bees can’t access the top of the frames. Thanks for your help. I like your videos.
This is a very good idea and I would be interested in seeing some real hive data on this and others experiences as to what the bees do to the joints and if they will propolyze the joints and by doing so they will become near impossible to disassemble without breaking the material. thoughts? great job!
I like the bigger frame. I do NOT like the bar in the middle since that is where bees initially winter. separating the cluster may be a very bad thing with a winter like we are having this year 2022/2023. Bees are also reluctant to build below that middle bar.
The frames do get stuck together, but all it takes to separate them again is sliding a knife along the seam to break the propolis. Unfortunately I'm not in a space right now to manufacture and sell the frames or their components.
hiya, been thinking about making a double deep frames on a long bar hive and it strikes me you could insert two identical brood frames in a hive literally sitting one top of each other with no gap between (a 1mm gap in practice)...all one would need is a vertically grooved channel somewhere in in the box that allows you to drop and slide one frame underneath the other...if you had a vertical grove cut on towards both ends it would allow one to slide all the frames out one by one...if you had a groove in the middle of course then you would need the centre frame suspended from the bottom by a couple of nails or similar poking out...i'll be making such a hive over the winter and will send you the pics when done...thanks again :)
