Photography tips, how-to, and reviews. This channel covers analog to digital, and everything in between. All things photographic will be exposed, (though fully dressed)!
Nice video. I like the motion blur of the pickup truck in the shot of the old run-down building. Adds to the story of the building's neglect and passing of time.
Hi Mr Naked and thank you for this very well done Video! I think, it is nothing mor but a verbal error of yours .... but .... it takes 33ml of battery acid to make 1 liter of bleach and not 10 ml as you claim! Battery acid is concentrated to 37% sulphoric acid and that makes 33ml then. Indeed ..... the ILFORD REVERSAL PROCESS works very well with FOMA 100 Film! Yours from Germany Klaus Rickert
Chris Sherlock has been so patient with me and has helped with any questions I have had. While I have not done a CLA on one of the reflex cameras I got into doing all the others. I lucked out of a massive amount of dead man's camera collections and am slowly going through them with the view to sell. Just gone through an eye surgery making my close vision off a bit so will have to use a magnifying glasses like Chris does to see the springs. Before I never needed it. I have retina iic and a iiic available I'll start doing photos of them on my IG and when I get some time will be putting them on eBay and set up an Etsy shop. I have loads of voightlander and Zeiss ikon. I love stripping down a leaf shutter. I do exactly what Chris Sherlock does even the aperture blades. I'm a perfectionist!! So any camera you buy from me is fully serviced and working. I'm from the UK but live in sunny France now and have an ig page as monoart69. Request to follow and send me a message if anyone is interested. Chris maybe retired but some of us are crazy enough to continue. Happy shooting everyone
I just got a roll in an assorted 16 lot bundle on eBay and I'm looking for a video to see how this performs, damn you got me Lol. Btw the cost of the bundle was just over $5 per roll, i refuse to pay the mark up on these.
I would think having the lights pointing at the outer edge of each eye on an angle that the tip of the nose and edge of the ear are equally distanced from each light may work better, if you haven't tried that, Just my thought's.
I just got a kodak brownie six-20 C. I am going to be respooling some rolls of 120 and trying it out, I have a feeling it will be a similar experience, no focus, just try to get the subject 3+ meters away. No shutter control, roughly 1/50th and bulb. Fixed aperture at F11. It is however, unlike the Holga, well made, being all metal for the most part, and quick testing with strips of 35mm doesn't seem to leak light. I will also have some fun attempting to develop the probably 1950s or 60s Agfa isopan film that was in it when I got it. It was wound to the last frame so I am pretty sure it has been exposed by someone else, decades and decades ago. Also, quick question how would you develop this, I was thinking that since I have no idea how exposed or degraded it is, stand development in rodinal may be my best option but I've only done analog photography for two years so it would be nice to hear the opinions of someone more experienced.
I’ve bought the first version, it worked well for a few months but the button got stuck. I tried many ways to contact the company to try to fix it or exchange it but not a single reply.
Ah this is neat, I won on ebay an old Czechoslovak condenser color enlarger and a bunch of accessories, and I was curious if I was able to adjust contrast when printing on ilford multigrade paper without using multigrade filter, but just changing the color of the light with the built-in filter Looks like performance is the same, just exposure times are not. That's great!
I have a male dancer coming to the studio tomorrow. I'm definitely grabbing a few rolls of ortho as well for the portraits at least. Good stuff. Thanks for all of these videos!
You can get a Holga lens for Nikon and Canon DSLRs. I put one on my Canon EOS T1 (yeah.. I know that camera is ancient) and take those same crappy pictures with a lot less headache and film cost. It makes digital pics look kinda cool, especially when you tweak color and black and white filter settings.
The positive thing is that they have finally developed a body projected forward and not to the sides, like the previous ones, which interfered with the controls of some cameras placed very close to the flash shoe (e.g. Leica III, etc.)
Thanks, Greg; good review as always. I purchased the KEKS for my rangefinder 35 about a year ago, to avoid having to carry a large meter with my compact kit. It costs about 25% more than the XH-2 (perhaps more by now), but it does default to single, rather than continuous, reading, and the display stays on for about 14 seconds. I've used it fairly little, and I've gotten so used to using a spot meter that it takes some adjustment to use 30-degree average metering.
A nice looking little meter. It looks well thought out. A few points to note. 1. If you're going to be testing a meter, you should be using slide film. 2. I would never use a phone app meter for anything. I've tested pretty much all of them thru the years and have yet to find one that gives accurate or even consistent readings. 3. Interior light varies a lot in intensity depending on where you're looking. Natural light outdoors is much more even. Continuous readings allow you to see how much variation you have in the scene. 4. The one drawback I see is that the display is on the top. This will wash out in sunlight, making it difficult to read. This is also why you found it necessay to lock the display. If the display were on the back (like Reveni) you can see it in direct sun and don't need to tilt it to read the display. It is nice to see more film gear being made, though.
Sometimes my Minolta spot meter and even the Gossen Digisix are too big and unwieldy or I'm too lazy. Up until now I had used a light meter from Doomo. Similar to TT-Artisan. With 2 adjustment wheels and variable positioning of the mount. It bothers me that these adjustment wheels protrude a little and are therefore too easy to adjust. The alternative should be the light meter from ReflxLab. The build quality is, well, in need of improvement. What bothers me about the XH2 is that it protrudes so far at the back. It cannot be used on a Leica, for example. The lock function makes little sense for photography. It slows things down and increases the error rate. I'll keep looking.
I've just bought a TTArtisan meter which works in a very different and more traditional way in that you turn aperture and shutter speed dials until the green LED lights up. However in many ways it's similar to yours, even including the packaging, and gives the impression of being designed and made by the same people, just under a different brand name. Mine works well although it does have a claimed angle of 45 degrees rather than your 30. I might buy one of these as well to see whether I prefer it.
I'm surprised the phone got it wrong (I'm going to assume its the apps' fault). Maybe its time for a shootout between the apps to see what one is the best 😮
I really appreciate how much great information you provide on your channel. In this video I learned that I don’t need to use the stabilizer since it is baked into the film. I use Kodak Photo-Flo 200.
